My husband and I are considering the purchase of a home that has recently had some of it's copper pipes replaced. The home does not yet have an acid filtration system. Of concern to us is that the part of the well that protrudes out of the ground with the cap on it is corroding. It has five holes in it to allow water to leave the well as it has an overabundance of water supply and needs to be released from the well. There is pressurized water releasing from these holes and the metal around them is rusty and corroded looking. This is a wonderful that we would love to purchase but we are concerned about the well and water content. The owner admits to high acid in the water and the need for a filtration system. The realtor has said that the water releasing from the well is not an issue as it is just caused by the excess of water supply. Any thoughts? What kind of expense is involved with fixing that corroded area at the top of the well pipe coming out of the ground. Thank you for any information you can offer.
Lori Sutton
Greg says: The well cap is made of Iron and is normal to rust. Plastic well heads might be available but they would not be as strong and sun can degrade the plastic. A well man is your person on this. Acidic water is treated by a neutralizer that can be installed at the well equipment location or at house. If you like take a picture and send it to me. Quality water treatment systems are not easy to get installed, most installs are down right stupid. I recommend a shed around this equipment. Water coming out of well heads is common in locations and only needs dealing with correctly. Local well guy again is your best bet, if you can find one who gives a dam, and is educated. Too often the education ends at just enough to get the license, and write an invoice. Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Both are very good units. Installation and how it fits the building is far more important than anything else compared here. Just the distance and pipe size alone will by far out weigh the differences. How often used vs a tank type is another major difference. Issues of cost are totally different than reliability or temperature controllability. Once you have a tank full of 120 deg. water it is hard to go to 140 deg. at a seconds notice. Tankless offer that. Remote controls offer that. Tankless units cost a lot more money to buy and if vent is used 10 times more for venting. Tank Types are not wall mount and outdoor approved Tankless are. Noritz and Rianni offer very close performance compared to Tank type, but the above is to cite some of the dynamic aspects of hot water. Location and the other issues is not important in a static comparison I point out true dynamics of a building. Not to mention user behavior ! I wont even go there. Web site and videos areÊexcellent! I couldn't find a topic similar to my problem. I have a well and have had acidic water levels for ..... years. A great plumber I knew warned me about deterioration of my copper pipes over the years but due to $$ or ignorance, I put it off. Well........ I have had a few pinhole leaks and have been replacing my copper pipes little by little with most leaks being after the water heater. I have replaced most of my 3/4" piping with pvc and was wondering if there is any benefit to replacing the rest of my plumbing/house all with 3/4" pvc pipe?Ê
Steve Moore
Greg says: Where do you live? CPVC is needed for Hot water, PVC for cold. Careful to stop back flow into cold from hot side. PEX is also a good choice. How it is installed is more important than the pipe. You could always call me.. 760 788-2889 Help! After watching your extremely helpful video on using a closet auger, we bought one to use on our toilet, which is prone to flushing issues.
I find it EXTREMELY difficult getting the auger cable around the sharp curve in the toilet. I think I've gotten it around the curve three times out of 75 tries on the first two clogs I cleared. Now the toilet is backed up again, and I'm not any closer to getting the hang of the closet auger. I turn the handle as I press the rod down. It hits that sharp curve and stops going down. As I continue to turn the handle, it just puts coiling tension on the cable so it snaps back when I stop turning. I haven't had enough successes to figure out what I've done differently the few times the auger HAS made it around the curve. HELP?!?!
(FYI, pre-closer auger we used to plunge away most of our toilet problems, then sometimes that wouldn't work and we'd call out the plumber to get that brown water down... At that point, the toilet would work great for a while, then it would happen again. It also frequently goes into a mode where it hesitates, but then everything successfully goes down. We don't use excessive amounts of TP. We don't flush anything other than body waste and TP. The toilet has long standing issues since before we moved in.)
Suggestions? Please? Pretty Please?
Alexandra
Greg says: You might need a new toilet. ones exist that actually work! You might have an object trapped in the passageway. What is the date inside the tank on the wall? If it is a toilet from the 90's it is most likely bad. (they are low flow and or ultra low flow) the new ones are HET or Hi efficiency design and some of these work exceedingly well! as in do not block up at all! If you pull your bowl up from the floor and find the object and can get it out and want to keep what you have , you can re install. If you cannot find ro get out your problem, replace it with one that I recommend. Most Toto Toilets are great, the Drake unit is fantastic and cheap too. Niagra makes one even cheaper but it is not as pretty for the Girls. Most units having a 3" flapper flush valve are best. some 3" units are a good flush but impossible to repair when needed. (no flapper). My question involves several parts of our plumbing.
1) Our home came with the water heater in the attic 5 years ago. There isn't room for one in our 1 level home.
2) The overflow for our AC and the drain pan for the HW heater go into the vanity sink in the bathroom.
3) The combined drain for the vanity and the toilet next to it are obviously connected since I discovered that the level in the toilet is determined by the level of the trap in the vanity. We seem to have a constant problem with mold in the toilet, even though we clean it once a week.
The question is - Do these seem like problems to you, or is it just me?
Greg says: Code does not allow the Pressure Relief line of a Water Heater to be run into the pan. The Pan can run to the lav. as can the condensate line from the AC. The AC needs a secondary line in addition to primary at lav. trap inlet.
The Building Drain has a blockage if the Lav water can be seen affecting the Toilet. Water Heaters in Attics Suck.
The mold issue I have seen before, the only thing to do is replace the toilet once that black mold gets there. I have tried to use acid and everything else. thanks so much for the step be step instructions they made all the difference. you saved me almost a hundred dollars and thats a lot to me. thanks again really usefull stuff.
kevin
Greg says: Plumbers are better than Lawyers. We really care. we actually talk in a language anyone can understand. That is my intention, I am glad to help. You have got to be kidding with the production of this video. THE MUSIC COMPLETELY OBSCURES THE NARRATIVE! I am a producer, and this is beyond amateurish. I just wanted to know which way to turn the aerator to get it off. Fortunately, I could see to turn it to the right from the visual, which was the opposite of what I was doing. Could I possibly be the only one who has ever pointed this out?
Greg says: Thanks for your feedback. Our testing indicated that the narration was easily heard. However, we will definitely take your feedback into consideration on future videos to be sure the narration is not obscuring the narration. very nice blog that provides new thing for me .Your blog provided us beneficial information to work on.
San Jose Plumbing
Greg says: Did you actually read the Blogs? I am a bit repetitive in my theme, but still from my perspective I feel the points are needed to be made. The varying angles I write from are possibly an attempt to "touch a nerve" with a wide range of people and mind sets.
Greg i have recently moved to the bush where we have a instant gas hot water service, an old vulcan. it is working but the temperature is a bit up and down. the buttons and knobs dont have any symbols on them as time has eroded them. i was wondering how i can find out what they are and what the slide control is.
please i need advice. can send photo if it helps.
thank you
mel
mel cleine
Greg says: Mel
One knob will be for on, off, pilot. other will be a temperature adj. Google search and fing users manual. the steel Name Plate on it will have correct search info. I am not familiar with Vulcan units.
Greg,
I've just moved into a 2003 condo, the bathtub/shower has a Moen mixer, but it comes out hot first and then cold. After watching your video I removed the handle, adapter, and limiter so that I could see the cartridge. The H-C is at the top,Êso IÊtried rotating the shaft 180, but that leaves the water running, until I get right around - 360. What did I miss?
Merry Christmas,
Bob
Ê
Ê
Bob
Greg says: Bob,
OEM cartridge is important, Moen in on the body of the Cart?, Also the pipes could be reversed in wall causing you to put H&C on the bottom and se set the cart. If you run the valve till hot then feel the pipes inside the wall, you will see if the hot is on left or not!
Greg Greg:
I really appreciate your website and tutorial on replacing the Moen Posi-Temp cartridge.Ê It would be great it you added or touched on possible complications or common things that may go wrong.Ê However, your videos and online tutorials were extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to tackle this project.
Thanks again.
Travis
Greg says: When anyone, a Plumber or Homeowner turns off Water Main to a building, things change. While the Water is off, the pipe drains, only to refill when Water is turned back on. Water quickly filling a pipe disturbs debris and Biofilm, this turbulence and debris is a common cause of trouble. How old is the Pressure Regulator? What is street side of the Regulator pressure? Do you have a Thermal Expansion Tank? What is the after side of the regulator? as low as 45 to 55 psi is good, as hi as 65 to 75 is max. First thing need is facts, next, decision, then fix, if needed.
Great idea, we could do a second video for every video listing "The rest of the story" We try to keep videos short for those who have no desire to start a new career in Plumbing, and get lucky with the minimum difficulty in the task. Greg,
I have spent hours on your website and I found the information you produce is great. Lots of people produce plumbing tips, your site is a little different. If you would like to do a guest blog post or videos on our plumbing marketing site, http://www.growplumbing.com , we would love to have you.
Hi Greg, My water pressure increase after new water heater replaced, special in the shower faucet, the water flow is too strong, I am scare with that strong flow, I like lower water flow better when I taking shower... I don't know what to do to fix the problem myself, should I need a water pressure regulator to fix the water pressure ?
But, why this plumber created the problem and can't fix the problem .
Please advice Thanks Christine
Christine Li
OH NO! Something went wrong...
Loved Love Love the How to repair a delta tub/shower valve video. everything went great and everything is on BUT BUT BUT there is now a leak at the faucet. what did i miss?
Please help! I dont know if its ok to shower with it leaking at the valve.
Tiffany
Greg says: Do you mean the same faucet is dripping? did you tighten the dome nut tight enough? do you mean the spout is dripping? I need more info.
Instsalled new faucet after kithchen remodel.Ê Over time we have lost a great amount of the original pressure.Ê Do you have any suggestions for me?
Wallace
Greg says: Question, did you use the stops to shut off water before changing? or did you shut off the whole house? The stop could have crumbled up and plugged the inlet to the faucet. The other is the scren on the faucet spout, have you cleaned it?. What kink of Kit faucet is it? the made in China home ctr. faucets with American names are not the best, they can have plastic lining inside that de laminates and plugs up the inside of faucet. The plastic lining is to comply with the cheap brass having lead in it from leaching out. There is a law against that now. If you have a pull out head, it is in the vacuum breaker that the blockage could be. You mention in one of your videos that a static water pressure of 80 psi is ok and anything more would need a pressure regulator. You don't mention the fact that water pressure tends to increase late at night though. I have that situation, my water pressure is 80 but it will hit 100 in the night, when no one is using it. If I have copper pipes, would I need to install a pressure regulator? Or would install it increase the life of my pipes at all? Thanks for the help and I love your videos!
Pedro
Greg says: Very important, issue, yes you need a pressure regulator and a thermal expansion tank.
Well about two months ago my youngest son got one of those "bouncy" balls stuck in our bathroom drain and we used one of those plumber tools that you pump up to build air in the chamber and then pull the trigger to blow the air pressure down the drain and I believe it worked because it began draining again.... Well last night my oldest son got sick with a stomach virus and the closest place he could get to to throw up was the same tub. I tried using the same device with that and it didnt work i also tried using a snake and was unsuccessful as well as a plunger..... also now when we used the sink in the same bathroom the water will back up into the tub! I am willing to try ANYTHING to get this solved without having to call a plumber, please any advise you have please tell me!
PLEASE HELP!!!
B.G.
Greg, you have a great webiste. Thanks for much for the information as I am learning a lot from you. I do have a question. I have a basement and the toilet down there is stopping up and I am also having some water back up into the tub. From what I have learned from your videos it sounds like I may have a main drain blockage. Is renting a rooter tool from home depot a good way to clear this? The clean out is right outside of the basement door so it should be a fairly short and straight shot to the toilet. Also, I out some Rid-Ex in a toilet and flushed it per the instructions. Dont know if it is coincidental but I have had 3 toilets stop up since doing it. Do you recommend using Rid-Ex?
Thanks, Tommy
Tommy B
Hello Greg,
I recently bought a house and in one shower I have a Mix-It valve. I hardly get any water pressure in the tub and I can barely get any cold water. It's either warm or very hot water that comes out. I replaced the Mix-It vale thinking it was bad and it didn't fix the problem. I also have two other plumbing questions, but I'll save those for later! Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Frank Larreta
Greg says: Frank,
To be frank, you need to change out the Mix-it Valve, Mixits are not good valves. When getting a new valve get one with "Check stops" Wolverine Brass makes a great Balance Valve having check stops and that can come with a large Escutcheon flange face plate to cover the large hole needed to be put in Shower Wall when installing a new valve. Moen also makes a repair Trim Plate too. Hello Greg,
Yesterday I replaced the rubber cups that are on my delta shower and today I saw your video http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml. My problem is with the water temperature, once I send the water from the tub spout to the shower head it becomes difficult to control. If the temp is good on the tub spout the temp will radically change to scolding hot on the shower head and then I need to very-very-very slowly move the handle or I will either get cold or hot. It's quite a dance trying to shower! :)
So I was told by a handy man that the rubber cups probably needed changing, so I went to home depot and bought the delta labeled replacement. The only difference is that the springs on the hd are a tad bit longer and not 'cone' shaped like the original ones. They fit fine and I put everything back together. Now the shower handle moves much smoother (it doesnt fall down to the off position) but I still have temperature problems.
The condo I live in was built in the late 60's and I assume this delta shower doesnt have the scolding feature that I've read about and that's why I might be confusing the water temp issue as a 'problem' and maybe that's just how showers used to work in the past?!?!?!?
What can by the source of my problem?
Thanks again and great video.
Ceez
Greg says: Ceez
You have a mixing of water from a fixture or a re-circ line that does not have a working check valve. Thanks for the Pictures you sent me, they confirm it is a Delta. Try shutting of the closest single handle faucet supply tubes to identify which fixture is allowing cold into hot side thru the single handle faucet. I also suspect the re circ line if you have one. The valve you have does not have anti scald feature. So glad I found this site; a life saver! Plus you saved me from tearing the copper tubes in my shower out of the wall!!
CJ Kern
Greg says: Glad to help! a tip jar exists on my site,tips allow us to make a little to offset web expenses! PayPal is safe and cheap! OMG!!! GREG!! I am so happy to find this site. I'm a single Mom, professional working woman who has no time to entertain plumbers all hours of the day! LOL! Sooo... when I had the first toilet clog I bought that cheapo toilet auger, it sat for weeks in the bathroom and then I finally got the nerve to use it. This is what happens when you have 3 toilets in the house. Then, the second one clogged. Well, out of desperation and fear for the one lone toilet that was still operational, I had to bite the bullet and try the auger. Waited till darling daughter was fast asleep, because I did not need "that" kind of helper. Guess what? It worked.... VOILAAAAA!!! And that was BEFORE I found your toilet auger procedure video on YouTube! So then I got to watching, and thinking, and learning a lot more than I ever wanted to know about my three wimpy-flusher toilets. Not quite sure if I have the right know-how, but I am going to make a point of exploring the innards of said toilets and see if I can't remedy this problem. I don't mind the auger, but hey, these toilets ALL could flush better!! Next -- the garbage disposal section. Yep, I'm on a roll!! Just tonight, you have saved me a lot of worry and I have saved myself a huge bill from the plumber who WAS supposed to come tomorrow!! Signed, SuperMommy :)
Jen
Well we were just minutes away from calling a plumber because we could not figure out why our dishwasher was not draining when my husband came across your site and watched your video on cleaning the air gap. My husband being the brains and me the brawn:) I took it apart just as you directed and found a clump of sunflower seeds stuck in the top. Thanks to you we are up and running again in less then 2 minutes. Thank you so much. You totally rock!!!
With great appreciation,
The Brains and Brawn Family:)
Susan Molina
Hired a big known plumbing company clear a drain. The shower in 2nd floor bathroom backed up and black goop came up the drain of the tub in the bathroom on the other side of the shared wall. The plumber tried to rod for about 45 minutes (after a flat rate of $594!!!!) and couldnt then said he had to take a look at the plumbing under the tub, which (unexpected by me) cost another $415 to do. Billing practices are questionable because after viewing with flashlight said he would have to rod through the expose plumbing and would update with up to date plumbing where they opened the piping...at another $1525 amount to be done another day. A friend said it sounded unreasonable and so referred to their plumber. He came in and through a linen closet in bathroom appeared to drill a hole...seems like the vent line and rodded then closed the hole with electrical tape. I didnt realize this was not acceptable practice until I started checking into it...but it did unclog the drain and clost $155...so less then the other company. In any event...seems I dealt witha theif and then a jury rigger(who by the way is a+ rated with bbb and angies list)....what is the safest best way to take care of that hole....should I call the 2nd plumber back to ask him about the safety of it?
lesann
Greg says: Well a "Flat Rate " usually means it is done complete and warrantied. So you did not pay right?, same on the other price.
Cutting thru a wall and drilling the vent to clear a drain is a smart method. He should have just put a tee in the vent and called it a clean out install and clearing...
Sewer gas is an issue with tape so either put in a clean out or use approved rubber and clamps that do not meet code. Is the hole in the vent above the flood rim of the tub? if so water damage is not an issue. $550 sounds like a fair price for the whole job done right with an access panel to the clean out. I bought a condo about 9 months ago. The building my condo is in, is a factory that was built in 1900 and converted to condo's in the 80s, everything here is a little lumpy-bumpy and very outdated but workable. So I was putting off upgrading my bathroom, until i noticed one day a few weeks ago that the sides of my bathroom vanity were waterlogged and had begun to swell up and was pretty moldy inside.
Since I'm a new homeowner and on a budget, I decided to replace the vanity cabinet (which included a sink, bought tools to do the removal / installation, and then I splurged on a nice price-phister faucet. When I tore out the vanity, I quickly realized I was into this for a lot more than just a cabinet a few tools. The linoleum was rotten and moldy beneath it, and the drywall had become wet and crumbling. I'm into this project for nearly double what my budget was.
What would be the best DIY solution to connect the new sink to the old copper wall pipe, that does not involve a plumber, or some lousy piece of rubber that may leak again in a few months?
Thanks
Westy1983
Greg says: You do not need anything except a pair of flexible supply tubes for hot and cold water, and a plastic slip joint p-trap to hook up the waste water. $10 will do it. Thank you so much for your videos. They have helped me to do a few home plumbing projects. I like your educational style and demeanor. You really are the best. I can not thank you enough for what you do.
Joe H
Greg,
I have broken vacuum protectors on my outside hose bibs. I called my usual plumber to replace them . He gingerly removed one with a hacksaw to reveal a hose bib with a 1" male pipe thread!!!. he and I are stumped. I tried a !" fpt to 3/4" fpt reducer but it wont thread on, so Im not really sure that the hose bib thread is pipe thread (its definately not hose thread--too many turns per inch) Im stumped . Have you ever seen this before? Is there any recourse besides just replacing the hose bibs??
bob
Greg says: No fixing those bastards, Need to replace the hose bib. Best is use a real hosebib, and retro fit a hose thread vacuum breaker and do not lock the breaker on to the outlet of the hose bib. If the hose bib was soldered on to a pipe instead of threaded to a nipple, solder on an adapter and thread on a bib. I have a question about general practice and code. A plastic two part trap is generally oriented pointing straight back from the basin or tub. Is there any objection to orienting it to either side and then the second section back? This will have the outlet a few inches to the side but can be adjusted to point at the down-pipe. At all times the water seal is in the same horizontal position as when the fittings point in a straight line. This is in case of limited space between the appliance and the drain down-pipe. But is this an accepted practice?
Richard Davis
Greg says: I hope you get my response in e mail...in short, yes.
Dear Greg:
My mother and I am sending you a huge thanks. Our toilet was clogged since last night 4/17/11. Of course I jumped online to find solutions since our plunger wasn't working. Your demonstration of using the Closet Auger was informative and thorough. My mother got a Auger for $31.00 at Home Depot and in maybe five minutes of work and after her viewing of your video we are rescued! Seriously Amen.
Honestly it is sometimes really moving how you're in trouble, without much money maybe even, and you get on the internet and find someone so kind as you to give a reaching hand out to people free of charge. My mother and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts! sorry this is so long.
The best way to repay you at the moment is to suggest you get some advertisements on your You Tube channel to bring in some cash and also here on your website. I'd gladly click on an ad to support bringing revenue to you. I will also be blasting your website to my 700+ followers on twitter (a monster marketing force when utilized properly) and also to friends on Facebook.
From New Jersey, my mother and I send our biggest thanks to you. Keep up those wonderfully thorough and comprehensive videos.
(Sorry for the long letter) - Lastly we have trouble with our plunger because our toilet is actually newer and the hole the plunger goes over is not circular. I think it would be great if a video were out to address suggestions for a situation like that with these newer toilets. If you decide to make a video on this. Thanks so much - either way!
In kind appreciation
G. Brooks
I would like to know what a backup drain is about, to keep my basement from floding.
MAJ
Greg says: I am not familiar with the term "Back up Drain" , I am experienced in "Duplex" pumps. I assume your basement is below grade? if so you don't have a drain, you have a sump ejector. A duplex system is a second alternating pump with a controller and an alarm. This is a standard packaged product. Battery backup systems are not expensive and work well. What is needed is the elevation of the lift from bottom of basement and the discharge point. how many feet of pipe total travel and the volume of water that might be needed to pumped. i need help !
i have a symmons 700 temp control mixing valve and im trying to set my water temp to 115 but it continues to climb to 130 sometimes and the mixing valve is new but cant seem to get it set just right got any ideas ? thanks
sam dunaway
Greg says: Do you have a circulation pump on the hot loop? if so it is pushing hot water past mixing valve Hi Greg,
Thank u so much for posting your how to change a Moen shower cartridge on u -tube. You really nailed the exact steps that I needed to complete the job for less than $75 and in less than 45 minutes. Glad to have found you.
Buffalo Bill
John T
Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.
Greg Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.
That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation. Hi Greg,
I'm in Phoenix, AZ.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter. Im thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: Steve
The plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you? Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: John
The Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it. Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use. For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
My husband and I are considering the purchase of a home that has recently had some of it's copper pipes replaced. The home does not yet have an acid filtration system. Of concern to us is that the part of the well that protrudes out of the ground with the cap on it is corroding. It has five holes in it to allow water to leave the well as it has an overabundance of water supply and needs to be released from the well. There is pressurized water releasing from these holes and the metal around them is rusty and corroded looking. This is a wonderful that we would love to purchase but we are concerned about the well and water content. The owner admits to high acid in the water and the need for a filtration system. The realtor has said that the water releasing from the well is not an issue as it is just caused by the excess of water supply. Any thoughts? What kind of expense is involved with fixing that corroded area at the top of the well pipe coming out of the ground. Thank you for any information you can offer.
Lori Sutton
Greg says: The well cap is made of Iron and is normal to rust. Plastic well heads might be available but they would not be as strong and sun can degrade the plastic. A well man is your person on this. Acidic water is treated by a neutralizer that can be installed at the well equipment location or at house. If you like take a picture and send it to me. Quality water treatment systems are not easy to get installed, most installs are down right stupid. I recommend a shed around this equipment. Water coming out of well heads is common in locations and only needs dealing with correctly. Local well guy again is your best bet, if you can find one who gives a dam, and is educated. Too often the education ends at just enough to get the license, and write an invoice.Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
http://www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/noritz-vs-rinnai.html
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Both are very good units. Installation and how it fits the building is far more important than anything else compared here. Just the distance and pipe size alone will by far out weigh the differences. How often used vs a tank type is another major difference. Issues of cost are totally different than reliability or temperature controllability. Once you have a tank full of 120 deg. water it is hard to go to 140 deg. at a seconds notice. Tankless offer that. Remote controls offer that. Tankless units cost a lot more money to buy and if vent is used 10 times more for venting. Tank Types are not wall mount and outdoor approved Tankless are. Noritz and Rianni offer very close performance compared to Tank type, but the above is to cite some of the dynamic aspects of hot water. Location and the other issues is not important in a static comparison I point out true dynamics of a building. Not to mention user behavior ! I wont even go there.Web site and videos areÊexcellent! I couldn't find a topic similar to my problem. I have a well and have had acidic water levels for ..... years. A great plumber I knew warned me about deterioration of my copper pipes over the years but due to $$ or ignorance, I put it off. Well........ I have had a few pinhole leaks and have been replacing my copper pipes little by little with most leaks being after the water heater. I have replaced most of my 3/4" piping with pvc and was wondering if there is any benefit to replacing the rest of my plumbing/house all with 3/4" pvc pipe?Ê
Steve Moore
Greg says: Where do you live? CPVC is needed for Hot water, PVC for cold. Careful to stop back flow into cold from hot side. PEX is also a good choice. How it is installed is more important than the pipe. You could always call me.. 760 788-2889Help! After watching your extremely helpful video on using a closet auger, we bought one to use on our toilet, which is prone to flushing issues.
I find it EXTREMELY difficult getting the auger cable around the sharp curve in the toilet. I think I've gotten it around the curve three times out of 75 tries on the first two clogs I cleared. Now the toilet is backed up again, and I'm not any closer to getting the hang of the closet auger. I turn the handle as I press the rod down. It hits that sharp curve and stops going down. As I continue to turn the handle, it just puts coiling tension on the cable so it snaps back when I stop turning. I haven't had enough successes to figure out what I've done differently the few times the auger HAS made it around the curve. HELP?!?!
(FYI, pre-closer auger we used to plunge away most of our toilet problems, then sometimes that wouldn't work and we'd call out the plumber to get that brown water down... At that point, the toilet would work great for a while, then it would happen again. It also frequently goes into a mode where it hesitates, but then everything successfully goes down. We don't use excessive amounts of TP. We don't flush anything other than body waste and TP. The toilet has long standing issues since before we moved in.)
Suggestions? Please? Pretty Please?
Alexandra
Greg says: You might need a new toilet. ones exist that actually work! You might have an object trapped in the passageway. What is the date inside the tank on the wall? If it is a toilet from the 90's it is most likely bad. (they are low flow and or ultra low flow) the new ones are HET or Hi efficiency design and some of these work exceedingly well! as in do not block up at all! If you pull your bowl up from the floor and find the object and can get it out and want to keep what you have , you can re install. If you cannot find ro get out your problem, replace it with one that I recommend. Most Toto Toilets are great, the Drake unit is fantastic and cheap too. Niagra makes one even cheaper but it is not as pretty for the Girls. Most units having a 3" flapper flush valve are best. some 3" units are a good flush but impossible to repair when needed. (no flapper).My question involves several parts of our plumbing.
1) Our home came with the water heater in the attic 5 years ago. There isn't room for one in our 1 level home.
2) The overflow for our AC and the drain pan for the HW heater go into the vanity sink in the bathroom.
3) The combined drain for the vanity and the toilet next to it are obviously connected since I discovered that the level in the toilet is determined by the level of the trap in the vanity. We seem to have a constant problem with mold in the toilet, even though we clean it once a week.
The question is - Do these seem like problems to you, or is it just me?
Greg says: Code does not allow the Pressure Relief line of a Water Heater to be run into the pan. The Pan can run to the lav. as can the condensate line from the AC. The AC needs a secondary line in addition to primary at lav. trap inlet.The Building Drain has a blockage if the Lav water can be seen affecting the Toilet. Water Heaters in Attics Suck.
The mold issue I have seen before, the only thing to do is replace the toilet once that black mold gets there. I have tried to use acid and everything else.
thanks so much for the step be step instructions they made all the difference. you saved me almost a hundred dollars and thats a lot to me. thanks again really usefull stuff.
kevin
Greg says: Plumbers are better than Lawyers. We really care. we actually talk in a language anyone can understand. That is my intention, I am glad to help.You have got to be kidding with the production of this video. THE MUSIC COMPLETELY OBSCURES THE NARRATIVE! I am a producer, and this is beyond amateurish. I just wanted to know which way to turn the aerator to get it off. Fortunately, I could see to turn it to the right from the visual, which was the opposite of what I was doing. Could I possibly be the only one who has ever pointed this out?
Greg says: Thanks for your feedback. Our testing indicated that the narration was easily heard. However, we will definitely take your feedback into consideration on future videos to be sure the narration is not obscuring the narration.very nice blog that provides new thing for me .Your blog provided us beneficial information to work on.
San Jose Plumbing
Greg says: Did you actually read the Blogs? I am a bit repetitive in my theme, but still from my perspective I feel the points are needed to be made. The varying angles I write from are possibly an attempt to "touch a nerve" with a wide range of people and mind sets.Greg
i have recently moved to the bush where we have a instant gas hot water service, an old vulcan. it is working but the temperature is a bit up and down. the buttons and knobs dont have any symbols on them as time has eroded them. i was wondering how i can find out what they are and what the slide control is.
please i need advice. can send photo if it helps.
thank you
mel
mel cleine
Greg says: MelOne knob will be for on, off, pilot. other will be a temperature adj. Google search and fing users manual. the steel Name Plate on it will have correct search info. I am not familiar with Vulcan units.
Greg,
I've just moved into a 2003 condo, the bathtub/shower has a Moen mixer, but it comes out hot first and then cold. After watching your video I removed the handle, adapter, and limiter so that I could see the cartridge. The H-C is at the top,Êso IÊtried rotating the shaft 180, but that leaves the water running, until I get right around - 360. What did I miss?
Merry Christmas,
Bob
Ê
Ê
Bob
Greg says: Bob,OEM cartridge is important, Moen in on the body of the Cart?, Also the pipes could be reversed in wall causing you to put H&C on the bottom and se set the cart. If you run the valve till hot then feel the pipes inside the wall, you will see if the hot is on left or not!
Greg
Greg:
I really appreciate your website and tutorial on replacing the Moen Posi-Temp cartridge.Ê It would be great it you added or touched on possible complications or common things that may go wrong.Ê However, your videos and online tutorials were extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to tackle this project.
Thanks again.
Travis
Greg says: When anyone, a Plumber or Homeowner turns off Water Main to a building, things change. While the Water is off, the pipe drains, only to refill when Water is turned back on. Water quickly filling a pipe disturbs debris and Biofilm, this turbulence and debris is a common cause of trouble. How old is the Pressure Regulator? What is street side of the Regulator pressure? Do you have a Thermal Expansion Tank? What is the after side of the regulator? as low as 45 to 55 psi is good, as hi as 65 to 75 is max. First thing need is facts, next, decision, then fix, if needed.Great idea, we could do a second video for every video listing "The rest of the story" We try to keep videos short for those who have no desire to start a new career in Plumbing, and get lucky with the minimum difficulty in the task.
Greg,
I have spent hours on your website and I found the information you produce is great. Lots of people produce plumbing tips, your site is a little different. If you would like to do a guest blog post or videos on our plumbing marketing site, http://www.growplumbing.com , we would love to have you.
Gregg Towsley
http://www.GrowPlumbing.com
310-546-1980
Gregg
Hi Greg, My water pressure increase after new water heater replaced, special in the shower faucet, the water flow is too strong, I am scare with that strong flow, I like lower water flow better when I taking shower... I don't know what to do to fix the problem myself, should I need a water pressure regulator to fix the water pressure ?
But, why this plumber created the problem and can't fix the problem .
Please advice
Thanks Christine
Christine Li
OH NO! Something went wrong...
Loved Love Love the How to repair a delta tub/shower valve video. everything went great and everything is on BUT BUT BUT there is now a leak at the faucet. what did i miss?
Please help! I dont know if its ok to shower with it leaking at the valve.
Tiffany
Greg says: Do you mean the same faucet is dripping? did you tighten the dome nut tight enough? do you mean the spout is dripping? I need more info.Instsalled new faucet after kithchen remodel.Ê Over time we have lost a great amount of the original pressure.Ê Do you have any suggestions for me?
Wallace
Greg says: Question, did you use the stops to shut off water before changing? or did you shut off the whole house? The stop could have crumbled up and plugged the inlet to the faucet. The other is the scren on the faucet spout, have you cleaned it?. What kink of Kit faucet is it? the made in China home ctr. faucets with American names are not the best, they can have plastic lining inside that de laminates and plugs up the inside of faucet. The plastic lining is to comply with the cheap brass having lead in it from leaching out. There is a law against that now. If you have a pull out head, it is in the vacuum breaker that the blockage could be.You mention in one of your videos that a static water pressure of 80 psi is ok and anything more would need a pressure regulator. You don't mention the fact that water pressure tends to increase late at night though. I have that situation, my water pressure is 80 but it will hit 100 in the night, when no one is using it. If I have copper pipes, would I need to install a pressure regulator? Or would install it increase the life of my pipes at all? Thanks for the help and I love your videos!
Pedro
Greg says: Very important, issue, yes you need a pressure regulator and a thermal expansion tank.Well about two months ago my youngest son got one of those "bouncy" balls stuck in our bathroom drain and we used one of those plumber tools that you pump up to build air in the chamber and then pull the trigger to blow the air pressure down the drain and I believe it worked because it began draining again.... Well last night my oldest son got sick with a stomach virus and the closest place he could get to to throw up was the same tub. I tried using the same device with that and it didnt work i also tried using a snake and was unsuccessful as well as a plunger..... also now when we used the sink in the same bathroom the water will back up into the tub! I am willing to try ANYTHING to get this solved without having to call a plumber, please any advise you have please tell me!
PLEASE HELP!!!
B.G.
Greg, you have a great webiste. Thanks for much for the information as I am learning a lot from you. I do have a question. I have a basement and the toilet down there is stopping up and I am also having some water back up into the tub. From what I have learned from your videos it sounds like I may have a main drain blockage. Is renting a rooter tool from home depot a good way to clear this? The clean out is right outside of the basement door so it should be a fairly short and straight shot to the toilet. Also, I out some Rid-Ex in a toilet and flushed it per the instructions. Dont know if it is coincidental but I have had 3 toilets stop up since doing it. Do you recommend using Rid-Ex?
Thanks, Tommy
Tommy B
Hello Greg,
I recently bought a house and in one shower I have a Mix-It valve. I hardly get any water pressure in the tub and I can barely get any cold water. It's either warm or very hot water that comes out. I replaced the Mix-It vale thinking it was bad and it didn't fix the problem. I also have two other plumbing questions, but I'll save those for later! Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Frank Larreta
Greg says: Frank,To be frank, you need to change out the Mix-it Valve, Mixits are not good valves. When getting a new valve get one with "Check stops" Wolverine Brass makes a great Balance Valve having check stops and that can come with a large Escutcheon flange face plate to cover the large hole needed to be put in Shower Wall when installing a new valve. Moen also makes a repair Trim Plate too.
Hello Greg,
Yesterday I replaced the rubber cups that are on my delta shower and today I saw your video http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml. My problem is with the water temperature, once I send the water from the tub spout to the shower head it becomes difficult to control. If the temp is good on the tub spout the temp will radically change to scolding hot on the shower head and then I need to very-very-very slowly move the handle or I will either get cold or hot. It's quite a dance trying to shower! :)
So I was told by a handy man that the rubber cups probably needed changing, so I went to home depot and bought the delta labeled replacement. The only difference is that the springs on the hd are a tad bit longer and not 'cone' shaped like the original ones. They fit fine and I put everything back together. Now the shower handle moves much smoother (it doesnt fall down to the off position) but I still have temperature problems.
The condo I live in was built in the late 60's and I assume this delta shower doesnt have the scolding feature that I've read about and that's why I might be confusing the water temp issue as a 'problem' and maybe that's just how showers used to work in the past?!?!?!?
What can by the source of my problem?
Thanks again and great video.
Ceez
Greg says: CeezYou have a mixing of water from a fixture or a re-circ line that does not have a working check valve. Thanks for the Pictures you sent me, they confirm it is a Delta. Try shutting of the closest single handle faucet supply tubes to identify which fixture is allowing cold into hot side thru the single handle faucet. I also suspect the re circ line if you have one. The valve you have does not have anti scald feature.
So glad I found this site; a life saver! Plus you saved me from tearing the copper tubes in my shower out of the wall!!
CJ Kern
Greg says: Glad to help! a tip jar exists on my site,tips allow us to make a little to offset web expenses! PayPal is safe and cheap!OMG!!! GREG!! I am so happy to find this site. I'm a single Mom, professional working woman who has no time to entertain plumbers all hours of the day! LOL! Sooo... when I had the first toilet clog I bought that cheapo toilet auger, it sat for weeks in the bathroom and then I finally got the nerve to use it. This is what happens when you have 3 toilets in the house. Then, the second one clogged. Well, out of desperation and fear for the one lone toilet that was still operational, I had to bite the bullet and try the auger. Waited till darling daughter was fast asleep, because I did not need "that" kind of helper. Guess what? It worked.... VOILAAAAA!!! And that was BEFORE I found your toilet auger procedure video on YouTube! So then I got to watching, and thinking, and learning a lot more than I ever wanted to know about my three wimpy-flusher toilets. Not quite sure if I have the right know-how, but I am going to make a point of exploring the innards of said toilets and see if I can't remedy this problem. I don't mind the auger, but hey, these toilets ALL could flush better!! Next -- the garbage disposal section. Yep, I'm on a roll!! Just tonight, you have saved me a lot of worry and I have saved myself a huge bill from the plumber who WAS supposed to come tomorrow!! Signed, SuperMommy :)
Jen
Well we were just minutes away from calling a plumber because we could not figure out why our dishwasher was not draining when my husband came across your site and watched your video on cleaning the air gap. My husband being the brains and me the brawn:) I took it apart just as you directed and found a clump of sunflower seeds stuck in the top. Thanks to you we are up and running again in less then 2 minutes. Thank you so much. You totally rock!!!
With great appreciation,
The Brains and Brawn Family:)
Susan Molina
Hired a big known plumbing company clear a drain. The shower in 2nd floor bathroom backed up and black goop came up the drain of the tub in the bathroom on the other side of the shared wall. The plumber tried to rod for about 45 minutes (after a flat rate of $594!!!!) and couldnt then said he had to take a look at the plumbing under the tub, which (unexpected by me) cost another $415 to do. Billing practices are questionable because after viewing with flashlight said he would have to rod through the expose plumbing and would update with up to date plumbing where they opened the piping...at another $1525 amount to be done another day. A friend said it sounded unreasonable and so referred to their plumber. He came in and through a linen closet in bathroom appeared to drill a hole...seems like the vent line and rodded then closed the hole with electrical tape. I didnt realize this was not acceptable practice until I started checking into it...but it did unclog the drain and clost $155...so less then the other company. In any event...seems I dealt witha theif and then a jury rigger(who by the way is a+ rated with bbb and angies list)....what is the safest best way to take care of that hole....should I call the 2nd plumber back to ask him about the safety of it?
lesann
Greg says: Well a "Flat Rate " usually means it is done complete and warrantied. So you did not pay right?, same on the other price.Cutting thru a wall and drilling the vent to clear a drain is a smart method. He should have just put a tee in the vent and called it a clean out install and clearing...
Sewer gas is an issue with tape so either put in a clean out or use approved rubber and clamps that do not meet code. Is the hole in the vent above the flood rim of the tub? if so water damage is not an issue. $550 sounds like a fair price for the whole job done right with an access panel to the clean out.
I bought a condo about 9 months ago. The building my condo is in, is a factory that was built in 1900 and converted to condo's in the 80s, everything here is a little lumpy-bumpy and very outdated but workable. So I was putting off upgrading my bathroom, until i noticed one day a few weeks ago that the sides of my bathroom vanity were waterlogged and had begun to swell up and was pretty moldy inside.
Since I'm a new homeowner and on a budget, I decided to replace the vanity cabinet (which included a sink, bought tools to do the removal / installation, and then I splurged on a nice price-phister faucet. When I tore out the vanity, I quickly realized I was into this for a lot more than just a cabinet a few tools. The linoleum was rotten and moldy beneath it, and the drywall had become wet and crumbling. I'm into this project for nearly double what my budget was.
What would be the best DIY solution to connect the new sink to the old copper wall pipe, that does not involve a plumber, or some lousy piece of rubber that may leak again in a few months?
Thanks
Westy1983
Greg says: You do not need anything except a pair of flexible supply tubes for hot and cold water, and a plastic slip joint p-trap to hook up the waste water. $10 will do it.Thank you so much for your videos. They have helped me to do a few home plumbing projects. I like your educational style and demeanor. You really are the best. I can not thank you enough for what you do.
Joe H
Greg,
I have broken vacuum protectors on my outside hose bibs. I called my usual plumber to replace them . He gingerly removed one with a hacksaw to reveal a hose bib with a 1" male pipe thread!!!. he and I are stumped. I tried a !" fpt to 3/4" fpt reducer but it wont thread on, so Im not really sure that the hose bib thread is pipe thread (its definately not hose thread--too many turns per inch) Im stumped . Have you ever seen this before? Is there any recourse besides just replacing the hose bibs??
bob
Greg says: No fixing those bastards, Need to replace the hose bib. Best is use a real hosebib, and retro fit a hose thread vacuum breaker and do not lock the breaker on to the outlet of the hose bib. If the hose bib was soldered on to a pipe instead of threaded to a nipple, solder on an adapter and thread on a bib.I have a question about general practice and code. A plastic two part trap is generally oriented pointing straight back from the basin or tub. Is there any objection to orienting it to either side and then the second section back? This will have the outlet a few inches to the side but can be adjusted to point at the down-pipe. At all times the water seal is in the same horizontal position as when the fittings point in a straight line. This is in case of limited space between the appliance and the drain down-pipe. But is this an accepted practice?
Richard Davis
Greg says: I hope you get my response in e mail...in short, yes.Dear Greg:
My mother and I am sending you a huge thanks. Our toilet was clogged since last night 4/17/11. Of course I jumped online to find solutions since our plunger wasn't working. Your demonstration of using the Closet Auger was informative and thorough. My mother got a Auger for $31.00 at Home Depot and in maybe five minutes of work and after her viewing of your video we are rescued! Seriously Amen.
Honestly it is sometimes really moving how you're in trouble, without much money maybe even, and you get on the internet and find someone so kind as you to give a reaching hand out to people free of charge. My mother and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts! sorry this is so long.
The best way to repay you at the moment is to suggest you get some advertisements on your You Tube channel to bring in some cash and also here on your website. I'd gladly click on an ad to support bringing revenue to you. I will also be blasting your website to my 700+ followers on twitter (a monster marketing force when utilized properly) and also to friends on Facebook.
From New Jersey, my mother and I send our biggest thanks to you. Keep up those wonderfully thorough and comprehensive videos.
(Sorry for the long letter) - Lastly we have trouble with our plunger because our toilet is actually newer and the hole the plunger goes over is not circular. I think it would be great if a video were out to address suggestions for a situation like that with these newer toilets. If you decide to make a video on this. Thanks so much - either way!
In kind appreciation
G. Brooks
I would like to know what a backup drain is about, to keep my basement from floding.
MAJ
Greg says: I am not familiar with the term "Back up Drain" , I am experienced in "Duplex" pumps. I assume your basement is below grade? if so you don't have a drain, you have a sump ejector. A duplex system is a second alternating pump with a controller and an alarm. This is a standard packaged product. Battery backup systems are not expensive and work well. What is needed is the elevation of the lift from bottom of basement and the discharge point. how many feet of pipe total travel and the volume of water that might be needed to pumped.i need help !
i have a symmons 700 temp control mixing valve and im trying to set my water temp to 115 but it continues to climb to 130 sometimes and the mixing valve is new but cant seem to get it set just right got any ideas ? thanks
sam dunaway
Greg says: Do you have a circulation pump on the hot loop? if so it is pushing hot water past mixing valveHi Greg,
Thank u so much for posting your how to change a Moen shower cartridge on u -tube. You really nailed the exact steps that I needed to complete the job for less than $75 and in less than 45 minutes. Glad to have found you.
Buffalo Bill
John T
Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.Greg
Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation.
Hi Greg,
I'm in Phoenix, AZ.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter.Im thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: SteveThe plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you?
Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: JohnThe Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it.
Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use.
For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
Good luck!
Dmitry.
Dmitry