Greg--
I just replaced a Moen 1222 cartridge (received from Moen) in my shower, thanks to your very thorough YouTube video. I used a Danco Core Puller to remove the old cartridge. All went smoothly except for one situation that required some modification to the new cartridge. When I tried to reinsert the retaining clip I found that the plastic collar on the new cartridge did not seat far enough and did not leave room for the clip to slide in. I removed and reinserted the cartridge repeatedly, twisting and turning it and carefully tapping on it using the plastic removal tool as a buffer. It still would not seat fully. So then, using an emery board, I filed some meat off each side of the plastic collar. I also tapered the ends of the clip with a grinding wheel. These modifications did the trick and the clip went in. The faucet is now working perfectly. If you redo your video you might want to mention the possibility of this problem happening. Thanks for your help.
Stan Brady
Greg says: Stan, Likely there was a piece of rubber or debris at the end of the hole where the cartridge goes in. Ive done hundreds of this valve cartridge replacements and about 1 in 20 there is this issue. I tell people to look into the area with a light or as the instructions with the cartridge say, flush out the body of the the valve then insert the cartridge. Moen OEM cartridges are all made in the same mold. The vairable is debris.
My attempt to reduce video time to comply with the averge attention span caused me to not do a half hour video, or even full hour. After 5 million views and thousdands of replies, I regret to say, your comment is not alone in wanting more. But the instructions are to flush the body out first, that will likely prevent your problem. Just ask Moen tech support. Anyway, thanks for caring and as you can see, I care too. Together we make the world a better place...
Greg... Hi plumbing gurus,
Just had a hot water tank installed by a company, but a poor solder joing on the cold water feed below the cutoff valve leaked water onto the top of the ne Bradford White Defender 40 gallon tank for about 14 hours. Quite a bit (gallons) on the floor, but it flowed first onto the top of the tank, where quite a bit must have made its way inside the tank (where the white insulation is).
They do not want to replace the tank, because it is still currently working. My last one lasted 17 years, this one only has a 6 year warranty.
Is it ok for me to keep this tank or should I stick to my guns (just an expression)?
Thanks!
Greg says: I would not worry at all, the heat will evaporate the moisture completly. Hi there Greg, I need your help.
I want to buy a new handle for my shower but am not sure what kind would be compatible with the valve that is currently installed. My contractor threw away the old handle so I have no clue what it was prior. I do have a photo of the valve naked.. it is like 2 inches long and has a hexagonal shape at the tipe with a screw on it.
I'm hoping that this is a standard valve but in my research, it seems like there are a bunch of varieties!
Thanks Greg!
daniel
Greg says: Daniel, see my e reply, I need a picture... Is it better to replace a water pressure regulator or use a rebuild kit?
Jack
Greg says: I have not seen kits work well is some models. I would think a factory kit for a Wilkind NR3 XL or an Apollo Conbraco regulator would accept a kit, but not seen Wilkins # 70 or #600 work with a kit. Best to use a valve body that uses a cartridge, that way it is like changing a light bulb in a way....What model do you have? What size? How old is the body? What pressures are you holding back, and down to how low? These issues are of issue. I successfully cleared a a stoppage in my bathroom sink. But when I replaced the pop-up plunger water is leaking out. I have tightened the knob as much as possible but it still leaks. I cleaned the second sink and have no such problem. Any suggestions? Should I apply some grease? What kind of grease? A washer?
Thank you for your help,
Peter
PS Your e-mail address I used to ask my question appears to be invalid.
Peter
Greg says: When you say Knob, do you mean the nut that tightens the pivot rod that goes into the pop up drain body, or the Jam nut that tightens the drain body to the bottom of the basin? If the pivot rod nut is leaking, there is almost always a seal or two on the ball part of the rod. Is the pop up body plastic, or brass? Hi Greg,
Found your great and relevant video about replacing a hot water recirculating pump. It was super helpful. Couple of questions related to this:
1) What is the point of the check valve?
2) Do you recommend a certain brand or model for a moderately sized home (~2500ft2) with just 2 persons living there.
3) Is a check valve required? Why?
4) Do i have to worry about air in the system? If so, how do I remove air in the system?
Thanks again for the helpful video!
Gene
Greg says: Gene,
I recommend the “Faster hotwater.com” products I have 2 different videos on my site, one is Lang system, other is Faster hot water .com. Call them, Mark or his designers can spec your controls for you and ship it out to you directly.
As for a check valve at least one is needed, first off the code requires a check valve, the Mfgrs. Require one, and function does too. When water flows, it can take path of least resistance, the hot water piping system is connected to the cold piping system, water cam push from one side to the other due to pressure changes due to flow demand. Hot water on cold side is bad if it gets into a toilet, heat can crack china. Also single handle faucets cause flow issues.
Air can get trapped in a piping system when filling it up originally, or after turning water off for a repair. As well air can be created by a pump cavitating. Air can be eliminated many ways, one is purging it upon filling the pipes, then not letting any in after. Pump cavitation can make new air even after a purged fill, so air vents are placed in the high points of a piping system.
Poor design of pump placement can be a cause of repeated air so one design system has a thermal expansion tank installed just over 10 pipe sizes before the pump suction inlet.
Not all piping layouts are same, some have a 3rd. circ. Loop return to hot water tank. Some have only 2 pipes, one hot, one cold. In the case of a 2 pipe system, the cooled down hot water is pushed into the cold side and that loop pushes hot to the far end to replace the pushed water.
Controls are much bigger deal than most people understand. On demand, vs timer, vs both. As well as fast pumps vs slower pumps, compounded by crossover valves restricting the flow velocity/volume.
I have a Delta shower head on my shower. A couple days ago, when running the bath water, the shower leaked water . I took the shower head off and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the fixture. I put it back on and it still leaks, both in the tub and the shower head. It doesn't when the water is shut off.
Thank you
i
CM
Greg says: Chris,
Any tub/shower valve can need service, when the valve leaks the water falls out of the tub spout, not the shower head. This is a gravity thing...your description says while the tub spout is running the shower head discharges water, right? When you say "it does not leak when the water is shut off" then you have no problem.. If I understand you correctly, the head leaks when your using the tub spout, that suggests there is a restriction in the spout forcing the water up hill to the head. I need clear defined description of what is leaking, so I do not error in my suggestion for a repair. If the "water is shut off" does that mean the water on the valve, or the water to the whole house, this is an example of the clarity I need. You can send pictures, or call me, 760-803-2881. Hello Greg,
I have an old Moen shower handle that pulls away from the wall to turn the water on. That action functions well. The problem is that once the water is turned on, the handle seems stripped or does not engage in changing the water temperature. I have popped the cap off the front of the handle to reveal the screw, but when I turn the screw with a screw driver to take the handle off, nothing happens (except we can at least control the temperature by turning the screw). How can I get the screw out to figure out to begin to fix the real problem?
Thank you!
Dan
Greg says: Is handle broach broken? replace handle.
The pressure regulator in the house I am renting regulates the dynamic but not the static pressure. While that is great for regulating flow, it does not address the ability of the system to handle pressure. Should I suggest to the landlords that they upgrade, or is what's there sufficient?
Greg says: Pressure regulators need to reduce static pressure. The flow drop when water is flowing is not regulation. There is to my knowledge and "regulator" designed to reduce only dynamic flow, that can be done by simply partially closing a ball valve or a gate valve or any simple flow restrictor. The main symptom of a failed regulator is not reducing static pressure. The regulator is completely defective, what is the static pressure ? If below 80 PSI, no regulator is required by plumbing code. However it is recommended static pressures are significantly lower than 80. Many homes operate effectively at 50 PSI. The lower the static pressure the less likely the chance of a leak and the less water is used/wasted. Hello. I have used your advice on the Delta tub faucet, worked like a charm. Now, on the same tub with the sane faucet; below this faucet is a toggle type lever that when pushed up will allow water to fill the tub. However, while to the eye the toggle doesn’t appear to be stuck in the up position, you need to hold it in the down position to allow the water to drain. So even when showering the tub is filling up with water, so then you have to sit and hold the lever down to drain the tub. There is no physical hair clog or anything, just the lever isn’t working. What is going wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks.
Alice
Greg says: Best replace the trip lever that has the 2 screws into the tub wall. The trip lever has a spring that makes it hold in either position. I can walk you thru the process easier on the phone.... 760-788-2889 Hi, question on a re-circulation system...I have a return loop (actually two loops to different sides of the home, but they are joined together just before the recirc pump which is located at the water heater) with a Grundfos pump and the system works quite well in that it provides near-immediate hot water EXCEPT that it is causing sediment buildup in both of the shower heads which I assume are where the return loops are tapped in to the main hot water supply line at these two “farthest” locations. I therefore have to clean out my shower head filters (the small plastic inserts) way too often, when the pressure at the shower head is reduced due to all of the sediment build up in the plastic filter insert. If I disable the recirc system by unplugging the pump and valving off the two return loops (just before they are joined together, above the recirc pump near the water heater) then I have ZERO issues with sediment build up so the problem must have something to do with the recirc system and both return loops. I do have some sediment build up in the bottom of my electric hot water tank that I flush occasionally to try and minimize the issue and a thorough flushing does help lengthen the interval between having to clean the shower head filters but I can’t figure out how the sediment is getting to the shower heads via the return loop when the normal flow is the other way (and my Grundfos pump is the “always on” kind so there is always a flow into the bottom of the water heater tank. There is not a check valve between the recirc pump and the water heater drain valve – could this be the solution, since I see you mention it in one of your videos and have seen others refer to a check valve? It doesn’t seem though that the sediment from the bottom of the water heater can travel into the return loop since the pump is pushing the water the other way (into the bottom of the tank). Any idea what the problem is here and how I can fix it? I’ve even tried putting a RUSCO hot water filter on the tank’s output but that didn’t help at all – the sediment is getting into the return loop somehow and from there into the two shower fixtures. Help!
Thanks,
Ralph
PS – most of my lines are PEX, and I have verified that the dip tube in the water heater is not deteriorating and causing the sediment, it is in like brand new condition (the water heater is only 10 years old). I do seem to have a lot of sediment build up in my tank but I’ve verified that the anode rod is still intact (I actually replaced it already just to ensure it wasn’t the problem). I’ve also replaced the heater elements several times over the past 10 years to ensure they aren’t the issue.
Initials are fine
Greg says: Ralph, your water is hard. The water heater is "Only 10 yrs. old" is not really a good thing, avg. life of a water heater is about that. Circ pumps cause the water to flow therefore stay hot, but the water heater has to heat the lost heat, and more of the heat all the time. Heating water causes hard water to precipitate. It is not advised to run a circ pump all the time. On demand or only when needed is now the code requirement for many reasons. Your problem is one of them. Thermostats AKA Aqua-stats are a code approved up fit. Also the existing hard water build up is kept in suspension by the circulation.
If you replace the tank as will be needed soon anyway, and Re-pipe the Circ system as per code, using check valves and isolation valves and an aqua-stat or other on demand control your problem will decrease. The balance of the hard water build up is from hard water. A real good and well set water treatment system will fix the hard water problem as that is what they do if done to code. THANK YOU. you are the bomb. I tried so many sites, yours was very clear and at a pace I could follow and understand. IT WORKS.
Deborah Ohara
Greg says: Deborah, Thank you for noticing my intent. I get it that details matter and do not assume others know what what the terms are, so I am clear.
Plumbing code it's self needs to be clear too...I have watched codes be written and therefore I assume nothing.
Congratulations on being a DIY'er.. I am installing a new vent branch going into my attic. I need to tap into the exisitng venting which is 1/5" copper and wonder the esisted way to accomplish this.
It is very tight so soldering seems a little precarious. What is my best option a fernco connector or is there somthing esls?
Michael
Greg says: 1'/5" copper? for a coupling use a steel banded Mission coupling. Use a minimum 2" size vent if a toilet is vented. hi, Greg! i had a leaking Delta Lahara (T17438) tub spout so i replaced the
cartridge (RP46463). anyhow, even after that, it still leaks in the off
position. Any thoughts on how to fix this please?
jesse
Greg says: Jesse,
What is the water pressure in the building? it must be below 80 PSI. Did you use a Delta made part, or one saying "Fits Delta" by another maker, (a knock off)? I have a second spicket can I install it backwards on main spicket to change direction ?????? . To help it also remove higher from the ground. ?????? .
Michael Butler
Greg says: I don't understand your question. Change direction? Remove from the ground? call me 760-788-2889...my cell;
I have a Delta shower tub facet with the ball, seats and springs system. (No cartridge). My problem is not leaks, but the opposite. Cold water stopped to a trickle suddenly while taking a shower. I replaced the ball,seats and springs. I removed and soaked the push diverter. The only thing left is a balance spool that I can't find.I don't think the model has one. Still have a low pressure to both the shower and tub. Please help.
Syd G
Greg says: How old is the valve?
Can you send a picture When there is water in the Kitchen sink and I pull the plug to let it drain, it drains slowly, If tureen the GD on it shoots out the dishwasher airgap.
What can I do to fix this?
Nick Presher
Greg says: Is the other side draining ok? If so the disposal side is blocked, pull the tee fitting out and clear it and resemble. Possibly a wet/dry vacuum will suck out the blockage. My five year old American Standard Onyx bath faucet set to stop mixing hot and cold water (only blazing hot or ice cold water was delivered).
So, I replaced the pressure balancing valve: https://www.amresupply.com/part/9454307
After I put it back together, the water mixed just fine, but now my tub faucet kept dripping.
I took it apart and back together again maybe 3-4 times, and it still kept dripping. Went turning on the tub water and pulling up the diverter to shower mode, and then turning off the water, the diverter also didn't fall back down like it used to. It stays up with water dribbling out of the faucet.
So i figured I damaged the cartridge (ceramic) and replaced that this morning: https://www.amresupply.com/part/023529-0070A-USE-ULNAS8
Still the exact same drip!! And same issue with the shower diverter.
This stress is killing me. Any help would be greatly appreciated
RK
Greg says: RK, What is the water pressure in the house piping system? It needs to be under 80 PSI. This can be checked with a water pressure gauge. I have videos on the how and why.... Hansgrohe
- Hand held shower head started leaking
- Plumber took apart the on/off (and hot/cold) lever and plate
- Plumber said we needed a new “cartridge”
- At times, there were 2 plumbers in the shower stall (heavy!)
- New cartridge would take care of the shower head leaking
- New cartridge installed. Now we have a different/new leak (argh!!) dripping down from our master bathroom shower into our family room below.
- Plumbers insist that the water is leaking down through the medal hinge on the bottom of the shower door
- I am not convinced
- The shower does not leak when I take a shower
- It leaks when my husband takes a shower after about 8 minutes in the shower (he is 115 pounds heavier than me)
- The water that is leaking down to our family room is quite cold even tho’ my husband is taking a hot shower.
- COULD IT BE THAT THE NEW CARTRIDGE WAS NOT PUT IN PROPERLY?
- NOTE: Our shower stall has 3 Swanstone solid panels from floor to ceiling and 1 glass door (top metal hinge and bottom metal hinge) Thus, Plumbers could only work on the cartridge from the small hole once they took off the control and the round plate ….
Kris
I just watched your video on how to repair delta faucet/valve in shower. Will this stop the dripping coming out of the faucet head? It isn’t leaking anywhere else, and I think there diverter also needs replaced. When we shower some water still comes out the faucet head.
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,
Shower heads and spouts may drip, but the water comes from the valve in all cases. The valve has a diverter that can let water past to the spout, and that is another valve, but it does not originate the flow of water, just diverts it. Delta valve diverters are sold at hardware stores, they are a push in to divert and should spring out automatically when the shower valve is turned off valve. When the Tub valve is turned on the water automatically comes out the spout. So, when that valve leaks the drim comes out of the spout endlessly. So, yes, vixing the delta tub/shower valve will stop a leak. And if the diverter valve leaks, water will 99% divert to the shower head, but some will leak out of the spout. Hi Everyone,
I have a question on drain piping.
I have a small area in my basement where i want to put a shower and a toilet. The builder gave a rough in here for the toilet while there is a 2" pipe at the opposite side of this room with a capped tee. This 2" pipe is going in the ground. I recently found out that this 2" pipe is actually a vent that goes all the way to top of my townhome.
The question is.. can i connect my shower drain with this 2" pipe.
Looking forward to your advice.
Zafar Mahmood
Greg says: We need to know how the 2" pipe is connected to the pipe below the ground to know if it is a vent, or a drain. Another question is if the basement is below the street sewer elevation and is the toilet vented otherwise? The roof will show vents, but other vents may be existing and connecting to the ones going all the way thru the roof. The Drain Waste & Vent (DWV) system is the whole pipping arrangement, not the sum of what can be seen. Every time I open the cold water tap in kitchen, the pressure shoot the outside tap open.
Greg says: Not sure what you mean, call me. 760-788-2889 I am trying to change the cartridge on a moen shower faucet and the Allen screw is stripped what is the best way to get it out ? Thanks
Al
Greg says: Did you get my direct e mail? cut of the handle careful not to cut off stem. get new handle... Greg - loved the videos, but when I went back to the WAter Pressure link I got a 406 error from the web server. You might want to check as to why the server can't provide that page.
The message in the web page was:
Not Acceptable
An appropriate representation of the requested resource /waterpressure.shtml could not be found on this server.
Meamtime keep up the great videos!
toby
Greg says: Thanks for the report. Can you be more specific where the link was to the water pressure page that didn't work?
Here's the correct address to the water pressure page:
http://diyplumbingadvice.com/waterpressure.shtml
Bill Palmer
webmaster@ramonasplumber.com Hi Greg,
I have a 1989-ish Delta Scald Guard valve that likely needs a RP574 pressure balancing spindle. After a pressure surge, we were only getting cold water. I replaced the handle, cartridge, seats and springs and it now only sprays HOT.
The brass nut that needs to be removed in order to gain access to the pressure balance spool has 3-4 slots that run from top to bottom. Any tips for removing this cap? Tried heat, screwdriver and wrenches.
I appreciate your insight.
Craig
Craig Perkins
Greg says: Craig,
W-D 40 may help, but heat is what I use, tapping on edge with sharp chisel & hammer. Tapping at the rotational direction of the unscrewing needed.
If faucet grease is used when valve is assembled, the parts will not fuse together.
Also water treatment of the whole house water is another method of reducing corrosion. The tapping to unscrew is just like the method a tire shop does to remove car wheels.
A VIGO kitchen faucet started to loose cold water pressure and finally no cold water coming out. I removed the faucet from the kitchen sink and found that there is a check valve in each of both copper tubes that engage with the water lines (cold and hot) coming into the kitchen.
I found out that the cold water plunger in the cold water copper tube was stuck in the closed position. I pushed it, using an allen wrench and it got free. I tried it many times and it worked ok. I assembled everything back and got the problem solved.
But a week later the problem reappeared. I believe for the same reason. Should I have lubricated the plunger? What with? Should I forget trying to work again and buy a new check valve?
Thanks for your advise.
Jorge Alberto Puebla
Greg says: Remove the check valve, replace is possible, but most faucets do not have checks in them , they stick! Alright plumbers. Double down well, convertible jet replacement
Pressure tanks set to the specified 28psi. Jet pumps been primed a few times. Turn on, pressure gauge gets to 20psi not even a second. And drops to zero.... keep priming, or am I missing something. All pipes were water tested , with no leaks
Danielle Bruno
Greg says: check valve leaking back. replace the check valve. We have the following setup: water from street, meter, pressure regulator, main line. We are told that it should be the reverse: water from street, pressure regulator, meter, main line. The pressure regulator is very old and may not be functioning correctly. Apparently the water from the street is high psi. We have found a small leak in the main water line. The meter is recording a constant usage of about one cubic foot every 15 minutes (roughly two quarts a minute). The leak doesn't seem to be nearly that much. We could, of course, have another leak that we haven't found. But I am wondering, if the water meter is intended to record usage at a lower water pressure, could the higher water pressure be causing inaccurate (inflated) readings?
Thank you
BH
Greg says: all pressure regulators are after the meter. Best if directly after, but in any case after the meter.
Meters may under-report, but do not over-report. looking for replacement stems hot and cold for American Standard shower mixer purchased about 1996,please advice
Webster Crichton
Greg says: contact Mfgr. they are the source... Thank you for your video on the dishwasher air gap. My dishwasher was not draining, and I tried your "paper towel trick", which cleared the blockage immediately. Thanks again!
TMcG
Greg says: Thank you, Tom, I am glad to help, just call if you ever have something and no video exists. A picture from you and a call is all I need to solve what you need. Likely tell you best direction to go .. Hello. We recently lost water pressure after a pipe burst in our pump house. We replaced the pressure switch and then noticed the bladder in the pressure tank ruptured so we replaced the tank as well. We still have barely any water pressure. If you turn off the faucet and let pressure build back up you get about 30 seconds of good pressure and then fades to a show trickle and then to nothing at all. You can't open more then one faucet at a time either. Thanks!
Alida
Greg says: Alida,
There is likely a blockage in the pipe between the new tank and the house. Is the new tanks pressurized within 2 psi of the pressure pump switch? Is there a gate valve that has a stuck gate restricting the flow? Is there a water pressure reducing regulator at the entrance to the house that has debris in it? where is good flow available, find that and then move towards the house to find blockage, then look between the 2 points. How old is the pipe to the house and what is it made of? Galvanized pipe is very prone to blocking up... Thanks for the Delta 600 refurb video. How long will the 600 valve last? I am remolding the bathroom and wandering if I should get a new shower/tub faucet or just get the refurb kit( which seems similiar to what you did). The original 600 was put in 1992 so it is 27 years old. It has never leaked or had any problems in the 10 years I have owned the home. Thanks
Curly
Greg says: The valve could last decades, if assembled with a silicone grease on the dome nut threads for easy removal and replacing the cups. As well using the optional stainless steel ball instead of the cheaper plastic ball. I have the same valve in my home with out age worries. However the new designed valves required for new construction are a pressure balancing type for anti scalding feature. That requires a whole new valve body. but then the parts to service are more expensive and more often need service.... I have a Delta 1177lf Delta pot filler. It is leaking where the faucet bends I can't find anything that would tell me how to fix it. I would appreciate any help you can give me. The faucet is 5 years old
Tia
Kathy Denk
Kathy Jo Denk
Greg says: Kathy,
Delta has parts for most products, go to Delta.com find part and order it... I have a Delta 1177lf Delta pot filler. It is leaking where the faucet bends I can't find anything that would tell me how to fix it. I would appreciate any help you can give me. The faucet is 5 years old
Tia
Kathy Denk
Kathy Jo Denk
Greg says: Kathy,
The Delta company offers a warranty on faucets, they likely have a pivot seal kit. If no seal kit exists, a new faucet will be needed. No common service parts are made for special design pivot joints in faucets. Joint disassembly is needed and I can not see a parts breakdown on that faucet. Contact Delta. Hello Mr. Greg Chick,
Thank you for the video.."How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve". By the way I have the same exact Delta valve and it is is leaking. Would like to find the correct spare parts (including the ball, and the handle; will be great if the whole assembly can be bought). Can you help with where I can purchase and the part numbers if any.
Regards,
Nagesh
nv
Greg says: Nagesh,
Most hardware stores stock the parts, the Delta ball for the shower valve is a very common part. Greg -
Hoping you have an idea here. We have 2.5 baths. The toilet in our master bath is not draining properly. It begins to flush and then stops, and the water slowly syphons out. The other toilets, sinks, and showers are all draining without any issue.
Here are the steps I have taken in an effort to locate and fix the problem and what I have found.
1. Plunger - no luck.
2. Snake - no luck.
3. Pull toilet and found water is very slow draining down the drain pipe - backs up and then very slowly drains. Tried using a lengthy pipe snake and it is either hitting something or hitting a turn that I can't find a way to negotiate.
I've read this could indicate the vent is blocked, but how could this be if everything else is flushing and draining OK? This includes another toilet on the other side of the wall from this toilet.
Suggestions on how I can clear this line?
Is it safe to use a small powered drain auger of some type on PVC pipes?
Thanks for any guidance.
Rory
Greg says: Rory
There are branches in the building drain, there is supposed to be a clean out for each one. The branch that is not draining needs snaking with a main drain sized cable/snake. If no clean out is known, the vent on the roof can be used if it is 3" Dia. or bigger. Not a good idea to snake thru a toilet flange in the floor. All houses are not built same in all eras, nor in all regions. A professional plumber is sometimes needed. After using hot water such as taking a bath, running dishwasher about 5 or 10 min. later when I turn on a faucet I will a brief burst of high water pressure with hot or cold. Would this be the pressure relief valve or the heater itself?
Roger
Greg says: Roger,
You likely have thermal expansion pressure from the water heater having heated up the water tank after cooling it down from using hot water. You can fix this by installing a thermal expansion tank to absorb this expansion. If you have pressures over 80 psi, which is common from thermal expansion you are risking a blow out..
Yes the pressure relief valve is a device to deal with this, but only to prevent an explosion. Like an air bag on a car is not intended to replace brakes on a car. Google the term thermal expansion, the watts Mfgr. has a clear description of the issue. Plumbing code requires a thermal expansion tank in this situation. I can detail for you more if needed. There is a job available for indian Plumbers at sir.
Greg says: Gurmeet,
Your comment does not make sense to me.
Greg. When, stupidly, trying the deal with a blockage in the bathroom sink I eventually undid all the main nuts. And problem was solved But in the middle of the job I tried to twist and turn the silver pipe into the wall. Could I have caused a leak behind the wall or the drain behind the pipe well secured please.
PD
Greg says: PD, Different regions of the world use different codes and methods of building drain waste and vent systems. As well different decades used different materials. What kind of house, a multi story building or a modular house are also different. I need more than the color of a pipe... sory to be so anal, but I am a plumber... You could send a picture to this site or my e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com.
Likely you need to replace a P-Trap, the silver pipe is likely a trap arm, silver likely means its chrome, therefore brass, therefore two options exist. If its soldered into an adapter into cast iron, that is more difficult, or connected using a compression nut, just tighten the nut. Knowing the other things helps me tell you the repair methods. hello.
why would both my outside pressure release valve and my hot water pressure release valve blow out at almost the same time.
details upon request.
thank you.
page
page
Greg says: Both "blow" for same reason, high pressure. The pressures obviously spiked . Pressure is equal thru the whole system. The water heater can create water pressure by expanding water from thermal expansion. The city water system often delivers water at very high pressures, requiring a pressure reducing valve after your water meter. Even after that, if, and that is a big IF, that reducing valve is working, there can be pressure created in the piping after that (thermal expansion). Reducing or regulating valves stop working after so many yrs. and need replacing, like tires on a car!. I have 4 videos on you tube about water pressure. You need to check your pressure in a static condition, and a dynamic condition to know if the regulator is working. If you do not have a regulator, you need one! This blow off of water pressure is a severe liability. Greg, I have a space in my bonus room that I would like to put in a 1/2 bath with just a toilet and wash basin. The space measures 45' by 55' with opening on short wall, toilet opposed and basin in long wall between.
Can you tell me the minimum floor space required to put in a half bath and if this is space is big enough?
Thanks
Dave
Dave M
Greg says: Dave, what code is being used where you are? In Ca. where the CPC / UPC codes are used a 30" width is required for a toilet another 30" wide for a lavatory, some codes allow 24" wide for a lavatory. By submitting a pre inspection approval at the planning dept. they will give the final word. By not getting a permit, you risk a few things... Are you in a city or a county jurisdiction? Thank you so much for the DIY video regarding soldering a new hose bibb! I have to replace both and this was well instructed.
NAB
Greg says: NAB,
Glad to be of assistance. How can I send a photo?
Ben
Greg says: yes, please do sorry for late response I am converting to pex b water supply lines. JUst past the water meter there is an elbow that directs the galvanized pipe from horizontal to vertical. Is there a ball valve that has a male thread to go into this female union and then a pex barb on the other side of the valve to run my pex straight from there?
Ben
Greg says: Remove all galvanized pipe, connect directly to the brass ball valve on the outlet of the meter. The ball valve will have threaded female outlet. Do not leave galvanized pipe in any piping system. It is ok to hook to the meter, everything after the meter is yours! I am converting my fiberglass tub/shower to a shower only. Removing tub shower unit, installing pan and tiling walls. Is there any way to convert my tub/shower valve to a shower only type of valve? I.e. eliminate the diverter valve so it does not come through the tile wall. Any input you may have will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Randall
randall clement
Greg says: Cap the spout outlet at the valve within the wall. Thats the short answer, a longer one exists.
I replaced my hot water recirculating pump about 15 years ago. Now it is time to do it again. At that time I bought an exact replacement at Grainger, a Little Giant CMD-100-5B. But it is no longer made. No one can tell me what to use to replace it. I like the Grundfos in your video, but where can I buy one? Their website is no help. I have a dedicated hot water return line in the house.
Doug
Greg says: Grundfos UP-15-18-SU is a good circulator for a single story, some two story homes. Get one with a timer, and an aqua-stat. They come with the union, (SU) having isolation ball valves in them sized for 1/2" and 3/4" the copper connection can be threaded, or compression. hello
my questions deal with putting a GAS water heater tank on a timer.
obviously, electric water heater tanks can have timer switches.
what about putting a timer switch on gas water heaters?
specifically, i have a state select power vent water heater with a honeywell gas control valve (wv4464a1037, see https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TrcAAOSwMK9aPBuW/s-l300.jpg )
the venting blower is plugged into an outlet, and if unplugged the honeywell control unit will stop operating.
i have read that the control unit should be shut off using its on/off valve.
so my concerns are
1) will operating the power vent blower, hence also the control valve, via a timer switch instead of the control units on/off switch
(see https://cf1.s3.souqcdn.com/item/2014/08/18/71/72/55/7/item_XL_7172557_5407869.jpg )
somehow damage the electronics in the gas control valve?
2) will greater thermal cycling swings shorten the life of the water heater?
currently, the heater is set to around 130F, with swings of maybe 10F when someone uses the shower, but perhaps only 5F steady state.
if i set the water heater to turn on at 6 am and turn off at 10 am, the tank temperature might be down to 110F in the morning, so a 20F swing. might this greater thermal expansion lead to premature failure?
nk
Greg says: Honeywell sells a controller that is designed to work with the gas valve and can program. The temp delta is going to cause expansion and contraction. The glass lining in the tank is the concern. Bradford White is a tank water heater Mfgr. that pioneered the Honeywell control. I would contact the Tank Mfgr. for the up fit controls and read the installation/operation manuals.
Other means of heating water exist, what is the goal? not wasting fuel, cost of fuel, desire to be top tech? All gas is not equal, all residential water heating lods are not equal, so on... The intake hoses fastens to the faucet threaded pipe with a spring clip. I can't fet the rube sheath of go up high enough to reattach the hose. Help!
k bretz
Greg says: I can not understand the problem, as I can no see it as you can and all faucets and connections are different. Using longer tubes could be your need, a picture will help...send to 760-788-2889 or greg@ramonasplumber.com Is it possible to stretch the springs in a single lever shower faucet to stop a leak? Seems I have to replace them and the rubber seats every 6 months or so? i love your youtube videos.
Thank you.
Mr Rex
Greg says: Check your water pressure, should be less than 80 psi.. The dome adjustment should be tight, other issues exist, stretching springs is not good. I am attempting to repair a shower drain. The shower has a fiberglass or plastic shower pan with an 1 1/2" deep metal dish the drain pipe comes up through. The metal dish does not appear to be removable. The dish had been filled with silicone to seal it. I am thinking this is not correct. Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks
Tim Schaeffer
Greg says: The drain fitting is tightened before the pan is installed. This is a plumbing contractor knowledge level issue. The replacement of such is very difficult and requires skills learned. My dishwasher is nowhere near the kitchen sink. However, it does sit right next to a washing machine drain, i.e., a metal pipe that comes straight up out of the slab. I want the dishwasher to empty into the drain that was meant for a washing machine. A washing machine discharge hose has a 180 degree hook on the end of it that you simply hook into the drain. Dishwasher discharge hoses don't have that. So, I want to purchase/make that type of any end for the end of my dishwasher discharge hose. Unfortunately, I am having trouble figuring out what to buy, and where I can buy it from. Any advice? I don't want it to leak, and I don't want it to cost a fortune. Yes, I can simply stuff the end of the hose down inside the drain, but I prefer not to.
KIP SMITH
Greg says: Kip
There are air gap fittings made and approved to just what you want to do. search stand pipe air gap The dish washer waste can not be put directly into a waste line, You need air gap indirect waste fitting... This fitting sits on top of stand pipe and has a smaller hole to attach the 7/8 " dish washer tube. Hi Greg,
You have given my great advise in the past. My worry at the moment is a toilet that flushes fine but when it does the tub right beside it gives a kind of glub sound.
Do I need a plumber. The tub drains fine and the toilet flushes rather vigorously but seems to be fine. It is the funny glub in the bathtub drain that is a worry.
Thanks,
Joanne
Camille
Greg says: Joanne,
Your sewer main is blocked, you need it cleared by a plumber with a mainline snake. The clean-outs in the ground outside are needed, do you know where they are?
I turn my shower on with a pull on valve and when I get the temp set to hop in the shower, shortly thereafter it slowly gets colder and I have to turn the valve hotter. I have to do this every couple minutes. Does the problem have to do with the valve or the water heater? Because if I turn it to full hot, it will still burn you.
Levi Holmes
Greg says: Levi,
Many things can be happening, the exact make and model of the shower valve and the types of pipe in the house, the type of water heater, the distance of the water heater, if you have a circulation pump on that system and more are needed to T shoot the issue. Each answer to the questions alone is not enough because any one or more of those parts of the hot water system could not be working!
Plumbers can devote 10 or 20 or more years to know how to t shoot this situation in person, let alone on line! My 40 yrs. tells me this. Just changed pressure regulator but pressure is still 110.factory preset at 50.
Now what???
Tlc
Greg says: Is the body of the valve in backwards? Hello
What a great idea to have a forum for the sticky problems of plumbing!we have a home built in the late 80s - we have had two explainable slab leaks due to pin holes in copper pipesone bend in the pipe from water heaterand one in the dining room wall.
We have two baths upstairs and toilets and showers can be heard all over the house
it is almost 30 years now and we are researching whether to repipe, with what and how.
Any inquiry from local plumbers brings a rain down of offers to do the work for $4 - 8 K - with all different recommendations for materials.
We live near hills and have to set traps in attic for roof rats so I though . . . no PEX. . .but beyond that trying to justify the more expensive copperwould you repipe? or just stay on top of repairs over time?
We are preparing to remodel and we thought it best to evaluate this prior to redoing walls, floors and painting
Jeannie
Mrs Jeannie Mollenauer
Greg says: Jeannie,
So, I assume most the pipe is in the slab and done by the same “Plumber” that the leaky sections. A couple of things are needed to know, one, the reaming of copper when cut to remove a share edge is required to avoid cavitation and thus pin holes. Two, flux used to solder was corrosive back then and no longer used, so that will help on replacement copper. Velocity of flow in the hot water piping can be an issue especially if a circulation pipe is installed on the hot side. Fixtures now draw less volume of water and therefore velocities are reduced from that. I use copper for some work, but use Viega Pro Press fittings and do not solder! Pro press fittings are much faster and better because they have longer turn radius in elbows.
Water chemistry can pit copper a whole house Point Of Entry water treatment system can fix that. Likely your troubles are flux corrosion and lack of reaming and installation errors. I love PEX, but so do rats, so, copper is doable, and stable, done correctly. Hot water is corrosive and the hotter it is the worse it is. Type L copper is thicker than type M. Type L comes in two ways, in a roll that is “Soft” or bendable, and it comes in stiff “hard” pipe. Code requires type L in commercial buildings, and if under concrete. It’s more expensive so used when possible, but it’s cheaper because the wall thickness is thinner.
Your leaks may be increased by high pressure as well, you are limited by code to be below 80 PSI. But 50 is all you need. Some people keep the pressure at 40 PSI. If the street pressure is over 80 there needs to be a pressure reducer, if one is there, it may not be working well, they last about ten yrs. Thermal expansion is another cause of high pressure, that is pressure from heated water.
My experience is slab leaks suck, re piping after 40 yrs. is very common.
Any specific questions on this input?
Hi there,
I live in a condo on the second floor (which is the top floor). Over the last week I have been smelling sewer gas. From what I can tell, it is coming from my two bathtub drains. I have used baking soda with vinegar and flushed with hot water then ran the cold water. It held the smell at bay for a couple of hours but it is back. I have a plumber coming tomorrow morning but am wondering if you could give me any insight ahead of that so I will have an idea of what might come up.
Thank you!
RS
Greg says: Rochelle,
You may have a fowl odor from the overflow for the tub. Enzymes are good for that not acid. The other possibility is a crack in the vent line in the wall. There are tests for that. Peppermint oil is poured into vent on the roof top and is smell is sensed indoors, the vent is broken. A few years ago a plumber installed a single handle bath faucet in my tub/shower. Since then I can't take a hot bath because when the handle is on full hot water the flow is too strong and the water gets cold. I don't have a water heater, it is fed through an oil burner. I have used the shower head to fill the tub as the water stays hotter but have melted two shower massagers this way. How can I adjust the water flow to less when filling the tub so the water stays hotter. Or, what other options do I have? My plumber said that I could purchase a hot water heater but I don't want one. I appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Mary
Bathless
Greg says: Mary,
I need to know more about the tub/shower valve and the water heater. You can send a picture to this e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com, or to my cell ph. 760-788-2889. The controls on the boiler are likely the issue. The water pressure in the building is one issue, the distance from the boiler to the tub is another also the pipe size and type. If the pipe is insulated or not and are other homes on that boiler?
I have a oil fired hot water boiler with a domestic hot water coil which runs in the summertime. I installed a 50gal electric hot water heater, can the boiler feature be bypassed so the furnace will not run until the house t'stat calls for it when house gets cold. The control is a Honeywell L8024B aquastat, which controls the domestic water temp and the house water temp. Thanks for you help.
Milt
Milton Carter
Greg says: Milt, unplug the oil system. Call a local hydronic technician if that does not work. Your dealing with a complex system. You need to replace the cartridge, the video shows how, the question is, do you have the push pull or the turn only valve body. The turn only is the newer one since 1990 or so. it is called Posi-temp.
Greg,
I saw your video on how to fix the Moen Shower tub valve.
My tub single handle value was really hard to turn off so I took off the
handle and white stop lock mechanism to see if I could see anything.
I did not take off the clip or remove the actual value.
Now when I turn the water back on I cannot find an off position to turn off the water.
Any ideas? It is like I cannot find the off position even though I rotate the value
over 360 degrees.
This is urgent since my entire house water is off.
Please comment......Jim Morizio
James Morizio
Greg says: You put the handle back on wrong. Hi Greg, many thanks in advance for any response!
So, I am replacing an old acrylic kitchen sink with a new stainless steel one(I live in a double wide mobile & yes, I got the correct size!).I plan to keep the current faucet(a replacement)as I like it. However, I'd like to replace the strainer basket assemblies....problem is,the current ones have plastic parts attaching to black plastic piping.Will the steel assemblies work or do I have to suffer with what I have(they don't hold water in the sink at all)?Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
Sheri Belanger
Greg says: Sheri,
The thin tubular plastic slip joint sink drain pipes and P-Traps are fine. The Brass tubular is same size, drain cleaners are bad on the brass. Drain cleaners are bad altogether. The basket strainers are 3.5" and have 1.5" outlets. Do not use the flexible drain pipe. There are good better and best connection patterns of pipe. The Baffle tee outlet should drop directly into the P-Trap. The trap arm is likely on either the left or the right, the side it's on should be the same side as the baffle tee. A waste arm into branch of the tee goes to the other tail piece that is vertically down from the other basket strainer. G'd bless you a hundred times and good health for you and your loved ones...Your instructions on how to reduce the pressure on my regulator was concise, simple to follow and visual. I was able to complete what I needed to do as well as to show my wife how to make the adjustment. You made a hero out of this old guy! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!
profound gratitude
Greg says: Thanks for your viewing and appreciation. I enjoy helping. will a shower mixing valve work if the cold and hot water lines are reversed?
kenneth bennett
Greg says: Kenneth,
it depends on the valve make and model. All single handle Moen valves are reversible by just rotating the stem. Some other Mfgrs. do as well. Pressure balance valves are required to be hot left, cold right in order to work safely. Other valves that are older can work, just backwards. What make / model is your valve ? Greg,
My basement is plumbed for a toilet, I'd like to install one, but during heavy rainfall water has come up through the drains in the past. Here: http://imgur.com/OojGyMU is where it's plumbed for a toilet. It's been capped off to avoid water coming up.
I have these valves: http://imgur.com/BPrFvEH on each drain that as long as I remember to keep shut will prevent the water from coming up.
I also have an old backwater valve? http://imgur.com/4rhKVpV I don't think it is functioning as I'm only able to turn about half a rotation with the crank.
So my questions are:
1) How likely is it that the plumbing for the toilet is still good?
2) Could I install something that is like what is set up for the two drains where I could close the drain for the toilet if heavy rainfall is expected.
3) Would you reccomend getting my backwater valve serviced or replaced? (My city will pay for half of the expenses on a new backwater valve)
4) What would you do if you were in my situation?
Thanks,
Nate
Nate
Greg says: Nate,
I would re pipe the exposed piping with plastic pipe and use new backwater valves on everything. Gate valves are not the best for waste water, they cause fouling. I would run a camera down the drain lines and hydro jet them is they are built up with anything. A camera can answer most questions. New valves can reduce trouble forward, and a local plumber that has both hydro jetting equipment and a camera. My upstairs cold tap when partially turned on makes a loud noise what causes it and how to rectifyThis problem
Thanks
Paul
Greg says: Paul,
You say upstairs "cold tap" is that a hose bib, shower valve having one handle or what? Is the valve old, wall mount, 1/4 turn, several turns to open all the way? Your question is like asking my car wont work right, whats wrong.... Older faucets have washers in them that chatter, while some faucets can squeal, these sounds are descriptive and help me know what the cause may be. Another issue is the water pressure in the building, if too high, that will cause even a well maintained faucet to make noise. Hi Greg. I changed the pressure balance unit and everything is good now. Thanks for all your help and quick response.
Frank
Greg says: Atta Boy, thanks for watching. I have a gerber toilet. After about 5years it started to leak. I have reset it 4 times using different wax rings and haven't had any success. I noticed a small eight inch hole in the bottom. Could this be the problem or is this something from factory. Any suggestions would be helpful
Tony Gregory
Greg says: I need a picture, the flange the toilet sits on, is it above the finish floor level? If how high? Is the flange tight, or will it move? The part number is A954440-0070A
Frank
Greg says: That is a pressure balancing cartridge, the spool is likely jammed. Sometimes the cartridge will click when you shake it back and forth in the direction the spool slides. Some do not. The factory knows if that one should. Pull the whole cartridge and close the shower enclosure and turn the house water on. There should be water flying out of the body. put your fingers in the body and on the left side of the body where the cartridge goes in should have hot water coming out. Greg
There is not a spool behind the cartridge. The psi is just slightly over 80. The faucet is the only single handle faucet in the house.
Frank
Greg says: Can you send me a picture of the valve or the part number of the cartridge you put in? the water in my shower is not regulating. it is either cold or extremely hot. i changed the cartridge and still have the problem. i have an american standard single handle faucet.
Frank
Greg says: Is the cartridge a pressure balancing type? Is there a balancing spool behind the cartridge? Is the water pressure over 80 psi? is there a single handle faucet in the house besides the shower? if so what make is it? My tub/shower is leaking water into the room downstairs. I did a test, and running the water into the tub and holding water in the tub does not cause it to leak. But, when I activate the shower head, after a while the water starts to drip through the ceiling downstairs. Is there any other place for this to leak besides the supply joint behind the spout, or the joint up by the shower head?
I want to know for sure before I cut a big hole in the wall in the adjacent room.
Also, to make things more confusing, this has happened on and off for a few years. Yesterday was the first time it's happened in well over a year. How could a leak start and stop like this?
Tom Perry
Greg says: Duration of use allows enough water to build up and then to drip thru ceiling, or, The shower head restriction of flow causes more to leak out because of higher pressure, or the spray from shower head is reaching a bad section of enclosure, or several other things. Being a plumber is not an A or B simple thing. Enclosures are made of many different materials ....... Likely the shower arm threads or the spout connection. either way no need to cut wall... I have very little cold water from my shower faucet. What can I do?
Shiree Hughes
Greg says: Tell me more, dozens of issues can be present. send picture
Trying to locate the water shut off valve for my shower/tub in my upstairs condo?
ryyple
Greg says: Some shower valves have built in stops/shut off valves in the body. Behind the trim plate. Look there. If none, there is lkely none because the cheapest bidder got the job and the min. was installed. I Bought A New Kitchen Sink In Black And A New Delta Faucet In Rubbed Bronze, So I Also Want To Switch Out The Flange ,( I Think That Is What It Is Called ) ) On The Garbage Disposal To A Rubbed Bronze And Also The Basket Strainer On The Other Side. Is There A General Size That I Need For These Like 3.5' Or How Do I Go About Measuring For The Size I Need ?
Wendy
I recently hooked up the garden hose for the season. After watering the lawn one afternoon, I turned the valve off on the hose bib. The next day, I heard water running. I checked the hose bib and it was still slightly on and leaking. Putting all my weight into the valve turned it off completely, but I was afraid I was on the verge of damaging the bib.
A week later, I tried to use the hose again. When I turned the valve on, the bib leaked profusely. I ended up replacing the entire bib manifold.
Today I used the hose to water the garden (no more leak at the bib), then turned the valve off when I was done. Later in the afternoon I again heard water running. The bib was not leaking, but sure enough, the valve was slightly on and water was leaking from the end of the hose. I again put all my weight into cranking the valve off. This seems to have worked, but again, I'm afraid putting that much force on the valve is not good for it.
What could be the problem and how do I fix it? Or should I continue to crank the valve closed with all my might? Thanks!
Adam
Greg says: Adam,
Replace the hose bib and check your water pressure, code and good sense to reduce leaks requires less than 80PSI. When you say entire bib manifold, what do you mean? What is the water pressure and best to use 1/4 turn ball valve hose bibs. My husband recently replaced the flapper on our toilet; but when putting the lid back on the right side slipped out of his hand and cracked the inside of the tank. We tried putting clear water proof caulking on the outside but it's still leaking. We rent our home so of course this caused panic in both of us. I called my local HD and Lowes(even some local Mom and pop stores) to find a replacement tank and they all say the entire toilet has to be replaced because it's an older model (Kilgore 201 WS w/ a 12inch base). We're looking at $150-$200 not including installation. At this time we're on a tight budget so that's not feasible. Is there anyplace we can go online to buy a replacement tank or are we going to be stuck buying an entirely new toilet for a place we don't own? Any help would be appropriated,thank you.
Valerie
Greg says: There are universal tanks made of cheap plastic and less than $100. There are in some urban areas used toilets to be bought in junk stores. There are plumbers who replace toilets for up grades and have to pay the dump to except the old ones. Call some plumbers and or the dump. If I use a water sprayer on the end of a hose, or an on/off lever at the end of that hose, instead of turning the water off at the spicket at the house, does that increase the risk of water leaking INSIDE the house? There is zero leaking outside either at the spicket or at the attachment at the other end of the hose.
kss
Greg says: Kristy,
Not unless the hose bib is a frost proof hose bib because your in a region where those are installed. The water pressure is the same throughout the house regardless if the hose bib is off or if the hose end is off.
The issue with the frost proof hose bibs is some of them are not listed to have a hose shut off on the hose. Frost proof hose bibs say on the handle that they are frost proof. I have been, perhaps, causing a hot water problem in my coop building. This is a 5 floor building in New York with one residential unit per floor. There are two vertical supply risers, one on either side of building and a hot water circulator to make hot water more quickly available. It seems that my shower control valve may be responsible for causing one side of the building from my unit#2 up to unit #5 to have no hot water on tone side of the building. Unit #1 below me doesn't seem to be effected. The hot water heater is a large natural gas fired unit in the basement. My shower body was installed over 10 years ago prior to my residency. Somehow there is a crossover occurring which I can prevent by being careful not to completely turn the shower valve/mixer off. I just turn it enough to stop any flow of water but if I turn it off securely it then causes this side of the building to have no hot water until I turn it on again ever so slightly. So slightly it doesn't even drip. The building insisted I have a plumber have a look. He offered nothing but a bill because the day he went the hot water was working because I am mindful not to turn it securely off. Do I need to replace my shower valve/mixer which acts as the temperature setting and then goes to a pressure overhead shower valve or a hand held pressure valve on either side? or is the problem some where else?. I hope I have described my problem so that you can understand it. If not, I will be happy to clarify. It has really become a source of unnecessary tensions in the building.
geturdone
Greg says: You have a building that has a complex piping layout. This type of plumbing service is not a DIY thing. Too many different issues can be present to direct you. I suggest you hire one of those highly trained Master Plumbers that NY has. NY is blessed with a plumber and tradesman licensing system that is very good, use one of them. If your downtown I know of a cranky old fart sort of a plumber that can serve you well. Not that you need a cranky old fart, but his skills are as good as they come... I want to run water to my barn/garden and the well that feeds my house is between the barn and my house about 100ft away from the barn. Can I just run water line below the frost line and then "T" the barn water line into the feeder water line that runs into my house rather than running all the way to the other side of the pressure tank which is in my finished basement? I would like to run to the well itself rather than drilling into my basement wall. It is my understanding that I can do this but my have to relocate the check valve. Additionally I was wondering what kind of pressure I would have from just the well directly. This water hydrant will be used primarily to water the garden. thank you.
JDS
Greg says: Tee into the pipe and all will work at the pressure that is in the pipe where the tee is. Do you have a booster pump in the basement? Im finishing a bathroom shower project that was not done right i have removed all grout am replacing it then sealing my question is the selector dial for hot cold is flush on top and quarter inch out on bottom do they make a cover plate that will hide this issue.
rick hardee
Greg says: The valve needs to be level, the wall needs to be flat and vertical, the surface that the trim plate meets needs to be flat. Send a picture to show me what you have. Dave, if you can figure this one out, you're great. I need help! I bought an Oxygenics Power Select for our master shower. Removed old shower hose and head from 8 inch wall shower outlet. Cleaned thread, applied teflon tape, installed new hose only. Hot water coming out of hose only- then I installed hand held wand. Figure this out. It only dispenses COOL water from the wand yet w/o the wand we get very hot water from the hose. Disconnected 2 wands from other locations in my house to try. Attached both to hose dispensing hot water. Both wands then dispensed cool water. Any ideas for why we only get cool, not warm or hot water from any of the 3 shower wands when they are alternately attached?
Thanks, Mike
Mike Mataraza
Greg says: Mike,
You may have a cross over of cold water into the hot water side from a flow restriction in the hot side at the water heater. The hot or cold or both nipples or flexes are restricting hot water flow and cold is pushing in. Look at water heater. Do you have those braided hoses at the water heater top? Greg, I just wanted to THANK YOU for your website and DIY videos. Our Viking dishwasher (DFUD042) went out today. We recently bought this house and it came with the dishwasher but no paperwork on it. After locating the user manual online, I was able to remove and clean the filters -- which very badly needed to be cleaned -- but that did not fix the problem of the wash cycle not completing and leaving water in the bottom of the dishwasher. The manual said another cause of that might be that the air vent needed to be cleaned. Since I didn't know what that meant, I Googled further and somehow came up with your website and the DIY video on this topic, and voila!, I fixed it! It was loaded with shredded carrots, a little bit of hair (yuck!), half a toothpick, and even a small chicken bone shard. We are a little too far from Ramona to call on your in-person services in the future, but I have bookmarked your website and I am sure we will be visiting it again.
Thanks again! This is a great service for homeowners like us who are adventurous enough to try to fix things ourselves:-)
Laurie Emery
Greg says: Wonderful,
I'm glad to help, tell a friend so they can get into the DIY and learn about plumbing. There are videos like ten essential things everyone should know... on my DIY you tube page that keep people out of plumbing trouble... My Delta Pull-Out kitchen faucet has an issue that has me perplexed. If I run the HOT water fully open it works fine. After it has been opened a while the pressure drops slightly and it starts banging and the water flow pulses. If I wait 15 minutes it works ok again for a bit. This does not happen with the cold water or with the handle centered on warm, ONLY HOT. This issue does not happen on the attached built in dishwasher or on any other faucet. Any guidance would be helpful.
Joey
Greg says: First let me apologize in advance for being rude, faucets today made in China and sold cheap in home centers are problematic. I deal with these issues everyday. What you have is a faucet that is not thermally stable. The plastic they use in China is the cheapest in the world. Then there is the pot metal that does the same. Then they leak inside the body and get water under the sink. In a more civil manner I suggest buying a better faucet.
Again let me apologize for my disposition , some of these faucets will last 4 yrs. or possibly more, but the vast majority are problematic and I have not found a way to fix them. So I replace them... I have a Moen two handle faucet in our downstairs bathroom sink that does not drip - drip leak, but leaks with a surge when we flush an upstairs toilet or turn on an upstairs faucet. How do I fix this?
JLF
Greg says: John,
You likely have surging in water pressures. What is the static water pressure in your building? I have videos on how to find out... Hey Greg, first of all I would like to say thanks for the videos that you have posted. They have been a lot of help. I was hoping for some clarification and advice if I may. In one of your videos, you pulled a ball of roots that had gone into the drain pipes through the wax ring under the toilet. To prevent this from reoccurring, you used copper sulfate around the wax ring. What I'm not clear about and I don't think it was mentioned, was the type of material the flange and pipes were made of. I guess what I'm trying to get at, would it be safe to use copper sulfate on material that is not made out of plastic? What if you have cast iron pipes, would you still be able to use copper sulfate on the surface of the pipes without corroding and ruining the pipes? If that is a possibility, what would you suggest an alternative to copper sulfate when applying them to the surface of non-plastic material?
Thanks,
Greg says: To my knowledge copper sulfate does not harm any plumbing fixture. The copper sulfate is best put between the pipe and the concrete floor. This is either plastic or cast iron, no issues. Hey Gregg, firstly thank you for your help. I'm the guy who has the issues with older Delta shower valve, I changed two of them in my house, the first one worked like a champ, the second one is still giving me problems, both ( purchased at Home Depot, the kits for the older ball system) I think they are stainless steel, I changed plastic grommets and springs and I'm confident they are install right, then installed new ball tithing to hand tight only, then the adjusted the plastic race for handle firmness. It's still leaking after I took it apart several times. Can you please tell me what else I might try, thanks Thomas
Thomad
Greg says: What is the water pressure at the house? Greg, I use a Navien CH240 ASME combi boiler for heating and domestic heating in a cottage. Unit was installed about 4 years ago and I am quite happy with performance with this single exception: when in heating mode and a call for domestic hot is made [open a hot water faucet] a single loud bang occurs within the Navien. My temporary solution: turn off the heating before using the domestic hot water. I believe the Navien uses a 3-way valve for switching between modes and when there is a call for domestic that valve shuts down the flow on the heating side. Perhaps it is that valve switching that forces a sudden pressure change that in turn causes the single loud bang. The bang does not reverberate in a way that I associate with a water hammer, but it must be something similar.
Would an arrestor type devise solve the problem? Where should it be located?
[well water, filtered, pump, well tank 40/60 psi, expansion tank, check valve, pressure relief valve installed.]
Gordon
Greg says: Gordon,
I think Navien can answer that better than I can, sorry, I am a Californian plumber, not an expert in combi systems. Replaced Delta shower guts in one handle shower, but still running water. I did the one up stairs no problem ,but one down stairs still leaking bad.
Thomas
Greg says: I need more info. house water pressure, age of valves, if tub n shower of tub, or shower, when you say leaking bad, did you tighten the adjustment ring in the dome nut? Did you get the springs and cups in well? Is the ball stainless steel? did you replace it? We have a downstairs shower head that runs in the off position when the master bath hot faucet is running. It is a shower stall with no bathtub. I tried all the other faucets in the house, hot and cold, but this issue only happens when we run the master bathtub hot water.
Rich
Greg says: If a shower head runs when the valve that controls it is off, the valve is leaking. If that valve is a tub & shower valve, then the diverter is allowing the water to divert to the shower head and not all out of the spout. In that case, the diverter is stuck partially closed. So now my question is, is this offending valve a tub & shower valve or are you talking about two different fixtures in the same bath room? As well I need to know the water pressure and age of the building. I'm remodeling a guest bath including the tub/shower. I want to have the tub spout, the shower head and a hand-held shower head. Is it best to use a tub spout with a diverter and then a diverter valve (2-way??) to select either the shower or the hand-held when not filling the tub? Or, is it best to go right from the temperature mixing valve to a diverter (3-way??) that controls all three outlets?
Rick Heller
Greg says: Rick,
The outlets of the tub/shower valve are up & down, the flow is directed down, if the spout is stopped. the flow is diverted to the path of more resistance, the head. he same can be done on the pipe up to the head by using a diverter valve in the wall. Or cheaper a diverter assembly on the shower arm. The question is do you want the hand held head on the hose to attach to the wall, or the shower head arm. Dear Greg,
I recently removed all of my 100 year old radiators from my house. I love radiant heat, but I did not want to deal with removing those dirty suckers, sending them to be sandblasted and powder-coated when I could replace them with low-profile cast iron baseboard radiators that take up virtually no space in my old house. So I took on this huge project and replaced all of the case iron pipes as well and have now run 3/4" Pex in place. Now I have two problems.
1st: The old boiler I have does not go below about 170-180, whereas I would prefer it to be around 120-150. Can I get a new thermostat control for my Crown Aruba boiler or do I need a new boiler.
2nd: The boiler occasionally climbs up over 180 and then the pressure suddenly rises from the normal 10-20psi up to 30psi+ and then blows the pressure valve. Since this only happens occasionally after the thermostat turns off from up upstairs it does not seem to be a problem with the fill valve psi. I am thinking there is a problem with the expansion tank, but perhaps it is because the Pex is getting too hot? Any ideas on these issues would be greatly appreciated.
scubapete
Greg says: Peter,
What you did was remove a needed part of a system, a system that is designed to use cast iron radiators. PEX is great piping, but I would never put 180 degrees on it. The boiler and the piping and the radiators are a system. This is something that plumbers study and train for many years to pass a test to be qualified to work on. A new condensing tankless heater is likely your fix. But, the controls are very important. Impossible for me to give you a "Buy this" and you are fixed. I strongly suggest a licensed hydronic contractor finish this project for you. I agree, the new baseboard radiators are best, I agree PEX piping is best, but the third part of your new system is a new correctly matched tankless unit with controls to drive the system. tapped into existing hot and cold supply lines to install new replacement shower mixing valve. Shut main water valve off to do this. WHen turned back on, water from hot side in different shower on the same floor (second) is coming out luke warm while hot water is hot from all other faucets in the house. After leaving other shower off for a while, hot water comes out hot for an instant and then turns and stays luke warm. Can't figure out why this would happen.
frank rizzo
Greg says: Water is crossing over thru the new valve. Install a check valve on the new valve and your fixed. The shower valves I install are not cheap ones, they have integral stop checks in the body! Question
Tub faucet, one handle control, Moen ,new condition. When we turn it on the water ones out of the shower head and the tub spout at the same time. The tub spout has no effect on the problem. Upon removal of tub spout, the water still comes out the shower head and the tub fill pipe. Any ideas on the problem?
Don
Greg says: Is the moen valve new? if so is it installed up side down? In your demo on under the bath sink to recirculate hot water back into the cold, what is the number on the pump.What pump do I need for a 50/60ft run?
I would like to know Brand and pump # to know what to order.
The distance from hot water tank ie 50/60ft. one way.
I enjoyed your demo; but don't know how and what to order.
Please advise!!!!!
Jerry Thrower
Oklahoma City , Ok.
Jerry Thrower
Greg says: Jerry,
Many companies sell pumps, several pump control systems exist. All have advantages and disadvantages. The gothotwater.com site has a great product list and many options. There are systems that pump hot water that causes heat loss causing fuel expense to re heat that loss and different controls do less than others and cost more. $225. up to $900. for the equipment. This is not just bean counting, its complex. Study options at the site that sells the on demand system. I tried twice to send pictures to you but it comes back as un-deliverable. do you have another email address I can send pictures to?
This message was created automatically by mail delivery software.
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Liona Shareing
Greg says: My cell # 760-788-2889 Hi Greg, I have a problem with the flapper in my toilet. I replaced it a few months ago and when I flush it usually goes down, but sometimes it sticks in the up position (which has cost me 3 times my normal water bill last month)
Do you have an easy solution as to what is the problem with it and how to fix it? My toilet is an old American standard without the bulb and the flapper is a rust orange color.
thank you
Liona
Liona S
Greg says: Liona,
Flappers in old Am Std. toilets are difficult. The existing flapper or even the one before that are not original and the flush lever has a relationship with the flapper. The correct flapper is the issue. Can you send a picture of the tank insides? hi Greg
Amazing web site. But heres a problem Im having in my head.
I want to redo my basement floor bathroom and all. If i remove the toilet downstairs will the toilet upstairs drain through the basement toilet drain and ruin my flooring project? Im sure it will.... and if you say it does how can i avoid this.
thanks in advance
Mike
mike
Greg says: Mike,
There might be a blockage in the downstream drain that would cause the downstairs floor toilet flange to be flooded, but the question is, is there a gravity drain for the lower toilet, or a lift pump AKA ejector? If they both drain into the same gravity drain and it is not blocked now and stays clear removing the toilet will not cause a blockage. A toilet sitting on the floor flange does not hold back a blockage or upstairs water. There are 3" and 4" expanding plugs people use to seal off the floor flanges for toilets. Get one and no worries. Hi Greg,
I just bought a condo I moved in a few weeks ago I have been using the guest bathroom shower since I moved in because the master shower has no enclosure the people who sold us this condo used a shower curtain but he did all the work himself on the home & I am scared with the way he did the walls I will end up with mold so have been using the other shower but since I moved in the handle has been broken it's missing a screw & another part I was able to get it to work not at its hottest but enough to get me through the shower. Now it is no longer working so I had to use the master shower there is an old rain shower head in there the previous owners had it basically facing where the water would hit the the wall & corner of the shower I took a shower but moved the head so the water would flow on top of me but the shower filled up with water a lot almost like a bathtub it was above my feet not quite to my ankles but if I would have stayed in there longer it probably would have. The pressure does come out very strong in there I assume that is why they had it facing the wall but I still do not think it should be filling up that high it drains with no problem once I turn the water off so I know the drain is clear. I am not sure what to do about this somebody has told me maybe getting a gooseneck showerhead would help this way the water will distribute everywhere or more evenly. What do you think? There were several other things that need to be fixed that I was not aware of till I moved in so I've had a few people come to do estimates none were Plumbers they were Handyman company's one of the things are the holes where all the plumbing is are exposed I wanted them closed up & covered well 2 of the guys were in shock & said there should be copper pipes or metal pipes something like that but they said this guy used a transmission hose or some type of auto part instead. The shut of valves are there but not where you can really get to them easily. This is behind both bathroom sink vanities I was wondering if that would have anything to do with the water in the shower filling up. Thank you so much in advance. Your website is amazing by the way.
Nicole
Nicole
Greg says: Nicole,
Your in deep do do, many issues, the issues need to be cleared up using terminology that is common to me. A ph. call is better so I can ask for more clear answers. Photos are good as well to my cell and only ph. 760-788-2889. Drains need to drain as fast as the shower head sprays water. 1/4" of water on floor is max. The heads are a separate issue in of them selves. The shower valve that turns the water on and sets temp is another separate issue. The enclosure is another. We need to divide and conquer. I will be on my cell with a blue tooth tomorrow as well with my smart ph. that you send pix to. Hi,
The sprout part of my kitchen sink tap has broken off, its a mono block tap with a swan like neck, the join has broken and there does not seem to be any thread to either end, do i need to replace the entire tap or can i find a new sprout and remove the plastic part that is at the end of the existing end and just join up, thanks in advance
Ray
Greg says: Ray,
Thousands of faucets exist, most made in China using the cheapest materials. I stopped repairing faucets yrs. ago. We live in a world of $120 faucets that are not worth $50, but to get a real faucet it costs $500 or more. The industry does not make any standard faucet spouts or such. So if you want a real faucet you need to know what functions you want and what finish you want and how many handles etc. Then how many holes in the counter it mounts to do you want to use and if you have 3 holes, what to do with the extra holes if you use the better method of just a single hole. I have an old tub spout with the logo ZA or SA in a circle on the underside of the spout, the name appears to be Eastern European. When I turn on the tub and pull up the diverter, there is a loud hammering which eventually goes away. There is no leaking at the spout when the shower is on, just the hammering. I've tried to find a set screw, but there is only copper pipe showing thru the rectangular hole under the spout. I tried turning the spout, but it won't budge. Anything I can do other than call a plumber?
Thanks for your help.
Val
Greg says: The spout is screwed onto a male adapter at the end of the copper and was not a wise thing unless the copper tube was type L or K. The thinner copper tube type M may twist and deform. I would use a hot air heat gun on the end of the spout to loosen the threaded joint and unscrew it. Having contractors redo a shower after I tore out old tile etc.
They turned off water, as well as turning off water intake to gas water heater; hooked up new Pex lines and have run lines to new Delta universal shower valve for Delta T17 series mounting controls. Currently fitted with test plug until after shower walls are put in place on top of current sheet rock.
Now since water is turned back on, the water throughout the house does not get as hot as it did before. Even with hot water heater turned up to hottest (scalding) setting, the water in kitchen and other bathroom is warm but not really hot, running hot water only.
Gas company technician came to check out the water heater and said it is fine. He thinks the contractors probably managed to switch a line, allowing cold water to mix in with the hot water from the heater.
Contractors have been back and say all the lines are connected properly under the house. Still no resolve. What is the chance lines in wall connected to rough in Delta valve could be connected wrong and causing this kind of issue?
JO
Greg says: Possibly water is crossing over in shower valve. shower valve should have isolation valves on the hot and cold inlets. If not add them. I lost water pressure in the whole house kitchen hall bathroom laundry room pretty much to nothing but in the master bathroom my water pressure is fine could it be the pressure tank
sa
Greg says: If water pressure exists anywhere in the house, the pressure tank is working. One pump and tank can not supply water to any one faucet and not another. Flow restrictions in faucet screens are likely the cause, remove the aerators and clean. If there is a tub spout check that, as tub spouts have no screens.
Let me knbow if this works Hi Greg,
So I moved into a new house about a year ago. I noticed that when I run the bath tub (high water flow) or run more than one water source simultaneously (ie take a shower AND run a sink at full flow) that it creates a very loud water hammer. This is strange because my understanding was that water hammer occurs when a source is shut off (toilet valve). I drained out all of the pipes by opening every single faucet, shower, bath, outdoor spigots and flushing toilets, running dishwasher, and running the washing machine while opening the bleed valve in the basement.
Once it was completely drained, I sealed the bleed valve and turned on the water. I then turned off all the valves/faucets moving from the the 1st floor to the 2nd floor.
This did not fix the problem. I then attempted to adjust the water pressure at the pressure regulator. I noticed that if I turned the pressure all the way down the hammering slowed down and then stopped. However, the pressure was too low. I then went the opposite direction and turned it all the way up. As it got higher the hammering slowed down and then stopped. I kept the pressure on the high setting and all was fine for a week. Then the hammering started again. I turned the pressure up a bit higher and it stopped again. Another week passed and it began again.
Not sure what to do.
David
Greg says: You need a new regulator. They last about 10 yrs. some less, some more. Also velocity causes water noise as well as shutting of a valve. Best to make sure all the air is out of the pipes after changing the regulator. I have videos on this. I have fitted the shower on my new house sunddenly I found out the previous owner has the cap on the hot water pipe for the shower by the hot water tank
Luu
Greg says: If in fact the capped pipe at the water heater is to the hot side of the new shower valve, insulate the line if you can and hook it up. I have no way of seeing what you have to suggest more.
We have a shower hob in a demountable unit, that is designed to fit with walls on three sides. Its fitted in the corner of a larger room instead - so it has a raised edge on one of the two free edges. Can that edge (meant to seal behind wall cladding) be cut down and resealed at the lower level? Its fibreglass I believe. Cost is the big issue- Can't really afford to replace the cladding (lamnipanel) if I try to pull out the shower base for a corner unit, or the special flooring if I go for a true level entry one.
The reason it must be cut down is its a trip hazard because the toilet is immediately beside it.
JI
Greg says: You will need to send me a picture, either to this location, or to e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com, or to my cell 760-788-2889. I am having a problem with my bathtub faucet leaking. I have had the inner cartridge changed on my single knob push and pull faucet and now it is leaking again. However, somehow my hot water and the cold water have reversed, so to use the hot water, you have to turn the knob to the cold side. I am aware that the cartridge needs replaced, but I am concerned about the reversed cold and hot. Would replacing the cartridge fix that? Prior to the faucet being replaced last time, the water started coming through my wall below my toilet tank, instead of coming out of the faucet. Help??? I have been trying to reach several plumbers in our area, but nobody has called back.
Sherri
Greg says: Sherri,
What brand and model is your shower valve? Some have a rotational option to reverse the hot & cold. Just rotate the stem and replace the handle. Parts must me made by the original Mfgr. Not just made to fit the brand. What is your water pressure? If your having a leak problem often it is caused by pressures over 80 PSI. I have a 3 valve shower that is about 50 yrs old I have found new replacement stems and whole units I have installed all three without leaks. when I finally turned it on everything worked like a charm without leaks awesome but when I turn the shower valve to run the water out of the shower head it comes out so so but it never stops running like crazy out of the spout. I re-removed the shower valve and reassembled looked inside to see if I found a diverter but no luck I did removed the spout which is clear but no sign of any another part.my question is can I buy a spout with a diverter and if so how do I turn the valve???Please I need help thank you Jo-Ann
Jo-Ann
Greg says: What brand valve is it, and yes a diverter spout will do... Yes, it is a Delta. We are trying to replace the valve, but can't get
it out and thought maybe we could if we can get the trim plate off.
This particular plate doesn't have screws holding it in so I don't know
if there is a spring loaded mechanism or what. But we need to get the
cartridge out. The valve is leaking...
Debbie
Greg says: Send me a picture of the trim plate, handle area. I have a delta victorian T17 series shower valve and trim. All of the pictures online show the trim is held in by screws, but mine doesn't have screws and I can't get the trim plate off to get the valve out. Any suggestions on how to remove the trim? Thanks.
Debbie
Greg says: The trim plate might not be needed to service the valve, what are you needing to do to the valve? What is the pressure in the house if it is leaking, what is the reason your working on it. All valves have a manufacture, all valves may look alike and in fact are different. Are you sure your valve is Delta, it says Delta on it? I have a moentrol valve. I am trying to replace the trim kit but the old cast medal rotational limiter appears stuck. I removed to screw but it will not come off by hand. Can I use a handle puller to get it off the cartridge?
Mike P.
Greg says: Mike, the part is sold at many hardware stores if you ruin it, yes a wheel puller is what is used when they are stuck on. I assemble all my work with a lube that prevents this...... The cold water bath tap runs brown when first turned on and no other tap in the house is doing that
George
Greg says: George, How old is house, what pipe material is the house piped with, what brand is the faucet is it a single handle or one handle for each temp. Hi I have a question both my handheld shower sp;racers drip constantly, do I need a plumber or is this an easy fix not sure if buying a new one is the answer. Thankyou
Virginia
Greg says: Virginia,
Shower heads and tub spouts do not leak, the valves do, the water just comes out of the head or spout. Like a garden hose, if it runs, the hose bib is not closed. What brand and nodel and vintage are your valves? What is the water pressure? These are needed to correct the problem(s). Send a picture... I a trying to replace the cartdrige of my bathroom Moen faucet. I can even start the job because I already tried all my hex keys but none fit the screw locking the faucet top lever. I was told it was a 2.5 mm hex key but id does not work. I checked all the other faucets in my house and it is the same thing. I don't have a tool to remove the top of the faucet. Any help here?
Thank you,
Walter
Walter
Greg says: Walter, you say bathroom Moen, shower or Lav.? When you say top lever, you mean handle? so many Moen faucets exist over the last 50 yrs....
Likely if the handle is stuck on, just cut it off and replace it with a new one...
Send a picture? or use terms used in the Moen parts desc. My handheld shower head recently began to only drizzle water. I was worried that maybe it was a plumbing issue, so I removed the shower head and then turned on the water to see if there was flow. The water flowed fine, so I went and bought a replacement shower head (another handheld). When I installed the new head, it did the same thing. Again, I removed it and checked the water flow. It was flowing just fine.
I wondered if the pressure was too low for the water to travel through the hose of the handheld, but water pressure really didn't seem to be an issue.
Do you know of any reason why this would happen?
BSM
Greg says: There is a restriction in the adapter to the shower hose, or the flow is restricted somewhere in the diverter if one is there. I do not use diverters for that reason. Send me a picture of the unit as it is on the wall and I will direct you to the flow restriction. 760-788-2889 I watched the Moen posi temp shower cartridge replacement video. I noticed you did not lube the cartridge. Is this something you recommend?
ECW
Greg says: I'm sorry, yes, I do recommend lube with a silicone paste lube or other approved lube. I likely did lube it in a part of the video that was edited out to keep the videos short. My Delta A112 handheld shower is leaking because the small plastic treaded gasket is broken. Where can I get a replacement part?
AMR
Greg says: Arlene,
Go to delta.com repair parts or the shower products section find the unit see the parts explosion and you will see the part # to order there. Ok so while the water was running in the bathtub I accidentally pulled down on the spout which activated the shower diverter and shut the water off from the spout. The problem is we have no shower connected to the tub and I can't find a way to cut the diverter off so the water will flow through the tub spout again. Help?
Jeff Coverdale
Greg says: Jeff
The spout diverter s just a diverter for the water to be forced up to the shower head, the pressure holds it closed, force the diverter loose and your set. However with out a shower head, you do not need the diverter spout, so remove it and replace it with a spout only. What make is the spout a Delta pull down type? Needed coffee, answered my own question. For anyone else wondering, turning the water back on to the whole house without touching the disassembled wall shower faucet is what I Love Lucy episodes were based upon...
(but I now have some coffee)
Teasister
Greg says: Nancy/Lucy,
Thanks your fun and don't feel bad, the reason Lucy was so popular is her & Ricky were all of US, as in USA. I posted earlier about my moen shower nozzle not working due to, it looks like, the handle adapter (black plastic) that sits in front of the limiter (white plastic) piece. Where do I find these parts? Now if the entire moen 1222B replacement part comes with these two other plastic pieces then I'm good, but I don't think it does according to his picture, but and also if this 1222B replacement will fix the black plastic from obviously slipping each time I put it back in the correct position then I'm good, if not I'm screwed cause I can't find these two plastic replacement pieces. I need help and I've looked at this demonstration video 4 times hoping I could here this needed info with no luck. I hope someone can help
Debbie
Greg says: Debbie,
Sorry I did not see the prior post, no the other parts do not come with the cartridge, Moen on line has the parts and the Moen toll free # on the site can get you to the order desk.
When you say "shower nozzle" I can only assume you mean the valve or handle, as the term nozzle is not used in shower parts. Closest thing is the shower head. But the shower head is a couple feet above the valve and handle and the parts in the valve assembly that limit the rotation of the handle thus limit the temp. Well I saw the video of how to replace your moen single control shower handle but the problem with mine is not the medal workings, it seems to be the black plastic housing that the shower handle fits on. Each time I remove the handle and refit the black piece that the handle screws onto with the allen wrench then it somehow doesn't hold. Problem is where would I find this piece to replace. Like I said it's not the medal workings thats not working it's the plastic that doesn't seem to be holding it when you turn the handle?
Debbie
Greg says: Debbie,
I found your first question.... Moen handles can be difficult to re assemble, you need to use an allen driver and the screw needs to be tightened up in the correct position. The screw that screws into the end of the brass stem of the cartridge needs to be tight so to hold the handle adapter. Then the handle needs to align onto the adapter before the allen screw is tightened. This handle system you have is not a simple one and if you call Moen tech support they might walk you thru it. Hi my name is James and i need help i have a old style shower that i'm trying to fix and something broke a small round metal ring about a half to 1 inch long with a small lip going around the whole thing it's a small piece that goes behind the shower cartridge into the pipe but since it's broken i can't fix the shower how would i go about fixing it?
James Ulmer
Greg says: You need to call me 760-788-2889, your written description leaves me with more questions... I didn't want to take a chance with a cartridge not fitting properly, or being poorly manufactured, so I definitely used Moen (OEM). The first one lasted well over 40 years and that was the best recommendation possible. I am a 74 year old woman and I expect it to outlast me!
DealD
Greg says: You changed your own cartridge that was 40 yrs. old and it pulled out and all is well?
GO Girl! I am happy for both of us, thanks for watching and being a DIY'er Fantastic site. Love reading how problems get solved and adding to my knowledge base. Just want to let you and others know how my problem was solved. After 44 years the Moen one-handled shower cartridge was replaced yesterday. That made the original tub spout diverter drip more water when the shower was turned on than it had before. It was a threaded one and would not unscrew, just kept spinning around. We pried out the diverter, made a saw cut on both sides in the middle of the spigot, and it came right off. Loads of crud deposits inside the spigot and around the threads. Cut the threaded end off to replace with slip-on spigot. Took less than 20 minutes. Tomorrow I will shop for a new spigot with diverter, a longer one this time.
DealD
Greg says: Thanks for the kind words, I enjoy hearing from the DIY'ers. Yes, slip on spouts are the best. On the cartridge use only by Moen for Moen parts. Spouts are optional... My kitchen pull-out faucet hose is leaking,but other than that the faucet and spray head work fine. I want to replace the hose, but I cannot find the brand of the sink and parts are very limited at the plumbing stores. I purchased a Pfister 920048A Pull Out Spray Head on Amazon.com and it looks just like the original spray head. However, the connector is a little bit too big for the pipe fixture. The pfister spray head replacer has a 3/8 inch mail threaded connector. I am considering purchasing a quick connect compression coupler to connect the new Pfister to the pipe fixture, but I am concerned if there is anything I don't know that could cause problems. For example, if my faucet is not a Pfister could there be a pressure problem that would cause major disaster if I install a Pfister spray head and hose on a non-pfister faucet body? I definitely do not want exploding pipes, faucet, or sprayhead, not do I want low water pressure. thanks.
Greg says: Terra,
Brand matters not in pressure of the water. The brand does matter in the way the hose connects to the faucet and to the head. There is a common thread that is used to screw the head to the hose for most, but the way the head nests into the spout body is different on most all faucets. The idea of not knowing the brand and model of a faucet and buying parts parts for it is not a good one. I suggest that most faucets are now made in China regardless of name/brand and very cheap in quality and price therefore a disposable product. A professional faucet is $300 to $1500, that is what I pay. As a result if parts are needed an online factory parts view and accessibility is 24/7/365. Exact parts are best and OEM.
Home centers that sell these imported faucets are selling replacement faucets not parts for the most part. Have a Delta shower/tub faucet that cartridge was recently replaced. I was turning it off one day and the knob broke past the stopping point and now it goes off when I turn it but if I don't place it just right it goes farther and water starts running again. Took it apart but can't seems to find where it broke or what I did??
Ashley Floyd
Greg says: Google the valve and look at the parts explosion you will see the splined rotation limiter. I have a combo boiler and thermostatic shower. A few months ago the water starting running cold half way through a shower. The. Would beat up again, no I have no hot water from my shower unless it's on full heat which is to hot to get in too and obviously after a minute it over heats and goes cold the hot then cold etc. All other taps including the bath have hot and cold water as normal. I've tried changing the shower bar but it still the same so the problem isn't the shower it's self.many ideas
Tracey
Greg says: Tracey,
The thermostatic valve cartridge is sticking likely from hard water. The valve needs service. What make & model is it? might have a flow limitation.
Hello All,
I have well water for my home and I recently installed a RO/UV system after my softener then a retention tank, a booster pump and pressure tank with a "new system bypass" to still allow direct softener water to my home, if needed. Learning to sweat all those fittings was an experience, but its all good now with no leaks.
My questions are around the retention tank where I have a vacuum breaker valve.
1) How does the air that enters my system via the vacuum break leave the system?
2) Do I need another pressure relief valve on the retention tank to allow this air to escape? Or some Air-Vacuum combination valve? I found some of these online,but they are for sprinkler systems and have no pressure ratings.
3) Any recommendations for size?
My fitting will be 1/2" F-NPT, but I can change that. My booster will not be pulling more than 4-5GPM (with two showers running). Most lines in my home are 3/4" copper. The pump draws from the retention tank at 1" but is reduced to 3/4" at its exit.
thanks for all the help
FirstHome
Problem: slowly decreasing water pressure in the hot water line only. This problem is experienced at all locations in the house: bathrooms, kitchen, laundry washer, etc.
What have I tested?
1. I have tested the water flow going into the water heater by hooking a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater and I get full high pressure out.
2. I have tested the hot water out on the water heater by attaching a garden hose to the hot outlet on the top of the water heater and I get full high pressure out.
Other info.
I have 3/4 inch copper line into the water heater. Same 3/4 out of the water heater for the first 7 yard or so where the lines divide up and go to the various faucets etc in the house. Those lines are 1/2 inch copper or PEX.
What to do?
I suspect that there is a clog somewhere in the 3/4 inch copper, but how do I clear it out? Or do I simply have to replace it?
Jake Enns
Greg says: Jake,
You give me more than most people asking questions, but there is still variables possible in various places. Generally the braided flex connectors are a bottle neck for flow and I would remove any that are in the system. There are mixing valve that do what you describe, there are objects that flow move and block fittings. Solder chunks rocks and mineral build up. The injection of fast and large volumes of nitrogen gas or CO2 using full port hoses into angle stops towards Wtr. Htr. can blow out debris. Using panty hose or socks on the discharge ends will catch any debris and show you that you have won! Many questions exist, how old the pipe is, what size and how far and to what restriction does flow have is what time,,,,,,,,
I bought a Danco 10347 cartridge to replace a Delta RP19804 cartridge for Delta 1300/1400 series tub faucets.
Do NOT do this. The water flowed fine but my pipes started banging when you turned water off around the house.
I bought the Delta RP19804 cartridge, installed it and the banging stopped.
No need to call a plumber.
Nashville Guy
Greg says: Nashville Guy,
I too recommend using only OEM parts. I am clicking to approve this statement because I agree and I approve most comments, unless they are nasty, very few... I have a single kitchen faucet with a pull down spray handle. The faucet rotates left and right but immediately returns to the center on its own and will not stay over the left or right side. Why.
Faye
Greg says: That is a mfgr. question, not a plumbing one, there is no plumbing code or standard for faucet or fixture behavior that is not health/safety related. Well, except water conservation, but that is actually necessary.
The weight on the pull out hose or the ability of the free fall of that hose below the sink may have an effect... Use a sheet of cardboard to separate the obstruction if any from the hose as it slides up and down from pull out. What make and model is the faucet? Hi,
I wanted to upgrade the trim in our showers so I bought a universal trim kit for Delta shower faucet controls made by Danco and sold by Lowes. My 1978 valve and stem aren't compatible with the kit, but it's open and there's no taking it back. (This was an attempt to forestall replacing the whole thing with new stuff because the current valves work great, they just look bad and dated in our remodeled bathroom). So, my idea was to buy a valve body only that will fit the kit. It says that it will work with Series 600 valves. (fyi, my shower has the diverter in the faucet (which I already changed and it works fine). My current setup is for copper but I saw a great video for changing to pex and using Sharkbite adapters for the copper to pex conversion. I could sweat the pipes but I've had good luck with Sharkbite units, so that was my plan. Here's my issue: I can't find which valve is from the Series 600 or even if they are still made! Delta seems to have a Universal Valve body called R10000. Is that made to replace everything before, or what? Any help you can offer is very appreciated. I'm near Memphis, TN. Thanks... Ron
Ron
Greg says: Ron,
Complete trim kits are available OEM for that valve from Delta last I checked. Danco is junk. The 600 series valve the original Delta, is very re trim able. The spout can be a non diverter if you have the diverter in the body of the valve. The dome nut the valve collar the handle all is available in chrome.
The up grade is supposed to fit the body you have, I have not done it myself yet. Call Delta they will help you.
Yes shark bites can work well, I use different valve bodies than Delta now a days, but the old stand by is what you have. Hi,
My kitchen sink sprayer is not working correctly. I have spent the last couple of days watching DIY videos as to what may be wrong and how to fix it. So I have taken the sprayer apart, cleaned the pieces, cleaned the aerators, etc etc to no avail. The problem I am having is that I can press the spray handle and water will spray out once and then stop. I can wait several seconds, press it again and it will spray again and then stop again. I know everything is cleaned so there are no residue blockages in the parts I can get to... unless it's something at the end of the hose that connects under the sink.....I think you call it a water divertor or the piece that controls where the water goes?? I don't know the plumbing terms..lol But anyway.....if that's the piece that's causing problems, is the piece universal or brand specific? Thank you and have a great day.
Tamara Kelly
Greg says: Tamara,
You are correct, you need the diverter valve in the faucet spout. They are not universal. Some are not even available. What make is the faucet and how old is it ? I'm trying to find out if using push on fittings is ok to use on baseboard hot water heat lines. 3/4" Is it?
Rick
Greg says: Rick,
if the fittings are rated for the tubing you are using. Look on the installation instructions, Are you using copper, PEX? you ask a general question with not enough info. to answer. Push fittings are not all created equal, and all installers may be created equal they are not trained in plumbing equal as well. Clean cuts are a must, and flushing out air from the loop is a MUST. just putting a fitting on may be fine but hydronic systems are very complex and above even many licensed plumbers training level! My tenant added a wye shutoff valve so he can connect 2 hoses on an outdoor frostproof spigot. The problem is that the pipe froze and resulted in a leak. Can you please confirm that if the frostproof faucet is first shutoff with the wye valve in the closed position this would result in water trapped in the frostproof valve pipe and when subjected to below freezing temperatures would result in a frozen pipe and a leak?
Greg says: Yes, any valve or even a hose left on a frost proof hose bib will cause water to be trapped it a frost proof bib. The Mfgr. clearly states this. The reason is the frost proof bibs need to drain the water out of the area that is subject to frost, a valve or even a hose with water trapped in it will restrict the draining. I'm in the process of replacing a leaky Delta tub faucet (single handle for hot and cold). I've removed all the pieces to try and replace the cap assembly or the seats, but the adjustment ring will not come off. I'm assuming it's either rusted stuck or someone used an adhesive to seal it. Suggestions?
Mike
Greg says: Mike,
Is the adjustment ring brass or plastic? you can either replace the dome with a new ring or soak in vinegar if you choose. Hard water is likely why it is stuck. Would installing a wye shutoff valve on an outdoor spigot result in freezing the pipe?
Greg says: It is not the shut off it would be the water inside the pipe if the shut off was in the off position and it was on the outlet of a frost proof hose bib. Is the hose bib you are concerned about a frost proof one? do you live where it freezes and therefor frost proof hose bibs are instaslled? Help!! I recently change the cartridge in my Moen tub faucet all went well until I showered and it was piping hot 🔥 There is almost no cold water coming out so I rotated the brass stem and it did not help 😟So then I Took the new cartridge out and looked in the hole to notice the old rubber piece from the old cartridge was stuck in the hole where the water cold water comes out and I can't get it out any advice ? -mel
Melanie
Greg says: Hemostats or long screwdriver to clean out valve body before replacing and cartridge, as well use only made by Moen, not for Moen parts. Hi,my problem is there is no cold water coming from the tap in the laundry room,I have to use the hot on every wash.the washing machine is a new one so I don't think is the machine.the cold water is barely coming out of the tap.can u help me.then the kitchen faucet used to run good,until one morning I found out its barely running.please can you help.thanks
Jackie
Greg says: jacki,
Clean the screen on the washing machine hose and the aerator on the kitchen faucet? try that and get back to me. Disconnect the hose from the faucet at the wall behind the washing machine! Help my shower has very hot water. i turn it off for a couple minutes than back on and i cant get hot water! Water heater is fine and i get very hot water everywhere else. I wait another couple minutes and ithe shower is hot again. What could be causing this?
Karen
Greg says: Karen,
Kinda like a car guy needs to know what brand and model, I too need to know more, send a pix here or to my cel, 760-788-2889. There is likely a balancing spool stuck or sticking on and off. I need to know the brand, such as Moen, or Delta, or price pfster, Kohler etc. single handle or 3 handle or 2 handle, how old 10 yrs, 20 yrs. old?
You stated: "A major cause of flapper failure is drop in bleach tablets and blue water tablets which damage all the rubber parts in the toilet tank, you should not use them."
I could not determine if the failure of the rubber flapper was bleach tablets or blue water tablets since no one in my house ever heard of them. However, I do remember the bottom of the bowl. ( DID YOU MEAN TANK?), A huge section near the flapper was too clean, another area was not, it was brownish color. Is that what you are talking about here?
Greg says: Angela,
The color difference suggests no bleach/cleaner in tank but the chlorine and ammonia in the tap water creates chloramines that do the same, just not as fast. Also at low enough levels to allow the brownish slime to grow. Flappers decompose at any rate and every couple yrs. need replacing. If you feel the rubber of a new flapper vs the older one from in water for a couple yrs, you will see the age and deterioration. As for the clean spot, yes the old bleached spot will remain from a long ago bleach blob... My Outdoor facucet leaks through handle when connected to Railbird Timer (for sprinkler system)
Only leaks when faucet is turned On.
This happens at two separate faucets with two different timer attached to it.
The faucet does not leak if the timer is detached from it.
Is this a back pressure caused by timer ?
The home is fairly new (2yrs old) so i don't suspect the faucet washers will worn out.
- R.T
R.T
Greg says: Yes, hose timers put back pressure on the stem, there are well made hose bibs that do not leak! new quarter turn hose bibs and best faucets are made in USA. I turned the hot water faucet in the bathroom and heard a pop then it was leaking from that knob I turned off the hot water underneath not sure what to do then when I turned on the cold faucet it began leaking underneath what could this be? Thanks so much really appreciate it!
Rhonda
Greg says: So much more info. is needed to advise, one issue is your water pressure could be too high. What is the water pressure? What make is the faucet? How old is it, if it is one of the made in China sold in home centers faucets, then it likely will leak in 4 or 5 yrs. We have a shower with a basic shower head and a shower head on a separate hose. Water is directed from one to the other with a diverter. The diverter also controls water flow generally. In neutral there is no flow, to the right it sends water to the shower head, to the left it sends water to the hose.
Beside the shower are two sinks. Here is the problem. There is no hot water coming fron the faucets unless the shower or the hose is turned on.
What do you make of that?
RAS
Greg says: There is a pipe with hot water to the lav. faucets? does water come out of that pipe? you may have a cold only supply to the sinks and the shower can cause a cross connection. All fixtures need to be tested at the pipe supply isolated hot then cold. American Standard Colony bathroom faucet is very, very slow when I turn on either hot or cold, or both, at the same time. I can't figure out how to get to the screen that filters the water supply from this faucet. Hate to pay a plumber to tell me I need to keep this screen cleaned. We have a lot of "stuff" coming in from our city water supply. I keep the kitchen faucet cleaned so I know this is true!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Carolyn neff
Greg says: Carolyn,
The spout aerator has been cleaned? I know of no screens on the inlets. If they exist they are in the connection of the supply tubes to the faucet. Most all faucets include a screen in the aerator on the spout as well as a flow restrictor that gets debris in it. Just buy a new aerator and replace the old one. Aerators are less than $5. I have a water pipe from the main water line that start outside the house, goes underneath into the crawlspace, comes right back out, goes up 2.5' and down again, back into the crawlspace and then runs to the the side of the house, outside again, up 1.5' and back down and in, right back to where it all started and from there runs to all the sinks and fixtures. Why and what would happen if you don't run it out of the house....twice?
Will
Greg says: Will,
Possibly for a water treatment system that was in line but outside the house. Sometimes called a softener loop. Wanting to remove electric water heater from out of my crawl space. I have a approx 3ft x 3ft closet area beside my shower. Wondering if okay to do there if electrical outlet is not near shower itself?
Greg says: Electric water heaters can be anywhere you have a hot and cold water pipe and 240 VAC. Unless you are willing to use a smaller 120 VAC water heater that will have half the water and will take twice as long to re heat. The power line is easier than the water usually. Wanting to remove electric water heater from out of my crawl space. I have a approx 3ft x 3ft closet area beside my shower. Wondering if okay to do there if electrical outlet is not near shower itself?
Jacquie
Greg says: That is to say, the closet is fine, it's the pipe and power that is the issue. Redid the whole well, new pipes, new pump water works to fill about 13 hugs then the pump over heats and stops.
Mrs plumber
Greg says: I need to know more, better call me, I could need to ask things like what gauge wire to pump, how many amps the pump requires, how far the wire is from the source of power too many things. Pumping and piping is a complex subject. Water not passing through the hose to the shower head only when loosening the thread ?1
Brian Rider
Greg says: Your going to have to explain your question. There are many things that could be present, I can not see what you have in your shower. ok, I am new to this plumbing stuff :) Anyways, the shower handle says Kingston. I am not sure if that is also the manufacturer of the valve, if there were a way I could send you a picture, I have it on my phone. anyways, I am thinking there is more than likely a clog somewhere in the copper pipe leading from the shower valve to the T where it connects with the rest of the plumbing. as I said, I took out the cartridge, and the rubber rings with the springs that were in the holes, and I only get a trickle of hot water through it. Now I have taken out the balance cartridge and it appears fine, dont see any corrosion and no clogs, I really hate to have to break out tile to disconnect the copper line and maybe that is what I will have to do?
Julia
Greg says: Julia,
Kingston is sorry to say, not that good, but if the blockage is before the valve, matters not. As a pro plumber, I replace entire valve bodies in the wall with out removing more tile than is covered by the trim plate that goes to cover the hole behind the handle. A trained plumber can do this. Or from the back side of the wall. What is the back side?
Send pix to my cell. 760-788-2889. We bought an old house about 5 years ago, we have two downstairs bathrooms and one upstairs. Have not used the shower upstairs until we had company and when you turn the shower on, you get cold water with a lot of pressure, and hot water just a trickle. This is the only place in the entire house, we have any issue with water pressure, and the sink and toilet are fine in that bathroom. I have pulled the shower handle off and it looks a lot like the Moen in-line rough-out compression valve. I took out the rubber gaskets and springs in the holes and when I turn on the hot water with the holes open, I still get just a trickle. The cold water full blast. we tried reverse blowing air through the line and with water off, I get water shooting out of the sink faucet, but nothing at all with the hot water. I took out the balance cartridge and it does not appear clogged up at all. Next suggestion>
Julia
Greg says: Julia,
Moen has no springs, do you mean Delta? I am not understanding, “inline rough out compression valve” Compression valves are not made by Moen, and balancing valves are not compression either. Delta makes a valve having a balancing spool as does Moen. The Moen has the balancing and on off and temp. all in one cartridge. Delta has several. Delta uses springs and cups as a connection from valve body to the cartridge. The balancing spools jam up all the time. If you remove and leave out of the brass body the whole cartridge and turn the water back on hot and cold water should fly out of the valve body. does that happen? If so, you need a new cartridge.
I have a deck mount Grohe Roman tub filler. The hand shower diverted stopped working so Grohe sent me a replacement L/P Diverter cartridge part 45443000. My question is can I swap it out without having access to the underside of the deck. Essentially can I simply open / unscrew the top and swap or will the underside spin and fall into the wall.
Frank
Greg says: Frank, even I would need to look at the installation instructions, look at the valve exploded view online and see if it comes out of the top, it likely does. Hello we had good water pressure from our shower head but we recently replaced with a new modern medium size circle shower head. Now cant use hot and cold at same time. Turn hot on and when turn cold on even a smidge the hot water is gone
Sarah Hansen
Greg says: I need more info. Brand of valve in wall. Approx. year of mfg. water pressure in building, these things are what a plumber needs to know to solve problems. My wife & I just moved in to a custom built home on a public water supply. From day one the pressure seemed too high, I voiced my concern to the plumber but was assured it was normal. One month in the home and 2 outdoor faucets are leaking thru the weep hole when under pressure, 2 brand new garden hoses have began leaking at the connector where it crimps to the hose and when the toilets fill, they seem to be louder than in previous homes. On top of all that, I am worried that we may have a leak under the foundation as one of the flowerbeds seems to stay consistently damp when everywhere else is dry. The plumber was contacted when the outdoor faucets and hoses began leaking. His response was that the hoses were probably poor quality and the faucets weren't designed to have a hose with a sprayer attached to them, as to much pressure builds up and causes the anti siphon faucet to leak. The first thing I would like to accomplish is to get a pressure gauge and check the pressure coming in. Next I would like to confirm or rule out a leak, if I leave the pressure gauge attached and turn of the main supply valve wouldn't a drop in pressure indicate a leak? What is an acceptable amount of time for the pressure to hold to rule out a leak? Any other tips, tricks or advice is greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
Greg says: Jeremy,
I have several videos on water pressure. Have you watched them? Do a static test on the house piping. Pressure needs to be less than 80 PSI. Recommended pressure is 50 PSI. Thermal expansion is also a source of pressure. Use a pressure gauge tell me what you find. What would cause an outside faucet with vacuum breaker to lose it's pressure after a few seconds of use? If you let off for a while it will have pressure again for a short time then it loses pressure again.
Bill Smith
Greg says: It is broken, replace it. Hello
I've installed a sprinkler system with a couple impact heads running from my outside faucet with one of those orbit timers. When the sprinkler system is on. Hot water is coming out of the cold water tap on my master bathroom. I felt the cold water pipe on the hot water tank and it seems hot also. But some other washrooms / sinks seem fine.
Jason
Greg says: Jason,
First off too much flow from a hose supply pipe is not a good idea. Is the water having to flow thru the hose bib, or is their a tee before the bib that supplies the sprinklers? If there is a tee before the bib, that allows too much water flow and will cause issues. Next, the hot water can be prevented from flowing backwards by installing a check valve, but I would rather know the reason the flow is going backwards. I suspect there is high pressure in the building. What is the static water pressure? I have a video on how to test that... I live in a trailer and have turned off the water at the street. I don't have any water in any faucet or bathtub except one toilet continues to fill up and flush with no problem. How can that happen?
I have a leak somewhere in that bathroom, still trying to find the leak could it have anything to do with that toilet?
Susan
Greg says: Susan,
You likely have not shut off the water all the way, the valve is likely letting enough water by to fill the toilet tank. The leak you refer to, how do you know you have one? high water bill, or water on the floor, or a dripping tub spout or what... The handle of my toilet shut off valve just blew off. No one was using the toilet or even in the room. I shut the main water valve off and put the handle back on. I want to turn the main water valve back on but do I need to be concerned that it will blow off again? Any idea what might have caused it to randomly blow off in the first place?
Christine Metz
Greg says: The handle just turns on a valve, did the handle blow off or the valve? is the valve a compression type or a screw on? Or did the valve come apart? you give me little to go on. send a picture? Pressure exists 24/7, so matters not if it was used. You may have high pressure and need a pressure reducer valve on the whole house. I just replaced the hot water cylinder in my bathtub tap and now I'm getting no hot water. What could be wrong
Rob callahan
Greg says: Rob,
Sorry for my being stuck on words, but cartridge is the term and what make and model? they are all different. Does the valve have built in stops? does the stem have limiters? c an you send me a pix?
After I use the garden hose for an extended period of time (e.g. watering the grass), I find my hot water doesn't work inside the house. Last night, I just turned off the main water supply and turned it back on again to make it work. Other times, it would just come back on its own. Had the hot water heater checked and all ok. Would you know what would cause this problem?
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff,
You say the hot water dosent work, do you mean no water, or the water is cold? If water works, but the temperature doesnt, then the hot water has mixed into the cold and blended. The reason would be a crossover in the two pipes. Likely a re-circ line on the hot water pipe to the far fixture. My shower is the old fashioned type where there is s lever on the tap that you pull up and it goes to the shower. The shower is the type that can be handheld if needed. Since renting here the pull up lever was so tight that it had to actually be pushed down to shut off. I used it one time, then next time the shower pressure was very weak and most of the hot water was still coming out of the tap. I now run out of hot water before I'm finished showering. What happened??
Ms. FixIt
Greg says: Merideth,
The “tap” you refer to I assume is the Tub spout, another assumption is this that the tub spout is not new and hard water build up has caused this. Replace the spout and your fixed. The cold water tap in my bath runs brown but all the other cold taps in the house run clear we have had the water company out they said the feed coming in is ok
George
Greg says: There is likely galvanized pipe in the piping to the tub valve, or out of the valve to the spout. Common for a house that was re piped for having galvanized pipe and the pipe to the shower or tub had no access, so the pipe was left. I live on the end unit of a long line of connected one bedroom aparts. This a substancially large apart. complex. My problem is that when it rains,my water in the (shower, tub, camode,faucet, well everything--turns an ugly yellomish color. I reported this to to complex and their responce is to run the hot water until the stream is clear. But then I can't take a hot bath e.t.c. Now I may be wrong, but this seems like a temporary solution to what might be an expensive progect if dealt with correctly. OH by the way: I receive city water, not water from a well or fed by a stream. One more thing:if I get a sample of the colored water--where could i have it cheched.It seems very unhealthy. Thank for your time,and I hope you can help me, in ANY way in this very frustrating issue.
Mike kreiser
Greg says: Mike,
I do not see any connection to rain and city tap water, as they are not connected. Test the water at city or county health dept. Turbidity is the term for colored water. Turbidity is measured in NTU's there is a max amount allowed by EPA for safe potable water that the wtr. Dist. must adhere to.
Please keep me informed on the progress of this issue, this is a health issue. Hi Greg,
I am renovating my bathroom and added a shutoff to the cold water supply so that I could work on the bathroom while the rest of the house still had water. My problem is that the water never stops flowing on the bathroom end. There was no real water pressure, just a very slow stream, little more than a drip. The new plumbing is now closed but if I turn a valve on I get a high pressure spurt, about a gallon of water, and then back to the low drip. Where is this water coming from? Is there hot water leaking into the cold system somewhere, and if so, how do I find it?
Thanks.
Sheldon.
Sheldon
Greg says: Sheldon
Likely from the hot side crossing over ... or the valve is not a ball valve and therefore it lets water past... I had a shower dripping and replaced the cartridge, it took a small delta ball shaped cartridge with a set of three holes on the top and three holes on the bottom (I believe the top and bottom set of holes are interchangeable). I also replaced the spring and caps for the hot and cold and the rubber ring seal. When I put everything back together there were not leaks anywhere and my hot and cold water works but the water pressure is nothing compared to what it was before. Is there anyway to adjust something to get better water pressure? I am not sure if I screwed the cap on too tight or if that would have anything to do with it.. Thanks!
Nick
Greg says: Clean the shower head screen, likely blocked with debris... Might valve to turn on both hot and cold water for my bathroom tub has been difficult to turn to at the point that I can't turn on the water do you think from either corrosion or build up may have caused it to freeze or is there another way I can maybe troubleshoot this to get it working without replacing it
Erik b
Greg says: Erik,
What make is it, how old is it, is it single handle or two or 3 handle? is it also a shower valve? does it push & pull out or just turn, if it just turns which way? Is this all of a sudden, or did you just move in to the place and do not know? My Honeywell water heater is showing normal system operations. However, there's is water leaking from behind the control/ temp module. Please help.
Jennifer
Greg says: Jennifer,
I need a picture, too many things are possible to say. Example Honeywell makes controls not water heaters, next you could have a boiler with a honeywell control not a water heater... Almost any water heating device could use a honeywell part. My tub faucet handles broke and I TRIED TO REPLACE THEM AND NOTHING SEEMS TO FIT. I FINALLY GOT SOME UNIVERSAL ONES AND GONNA TRY THOSE BUT NOW THE WATER PRESSURE IS TERRIBLE. HOWEVER, I DID TAKE THE CARTRIDGE OUT BC I WAS GONNA REPLACE THEM, IS IT POSSIBLE I DIDN'T PUT THEM BACK IN RIGHT? PLZ HELP ASAP
Leigh Shelton
Greg says: Please call me, you need exact parts and you need to know and share more to do this. 760-788-2889 Replaced a sump pump along with the two layers of bricks that had been inserted on the dirt bottom when the previous pump was replaced. Does this likely increase the life of the pump? On the other hand, would placing the pump (with intake on the top side of the base) directly on the dirt bottom make more of a difference in reducing basement seepage? Thanks.
Jim
Greg says: I can't tell by your description because variables exist. Send picture, The frequency of pump operation and the cycle time as well as the content of the water pumped is more of an issue. The pump bearings as well as the float type are an issue to life of pump. Need more info. to make a useable judgment. I have a 3 handle shower, and a few days ago the diverter popped out of the wall when I went to turn it, and the water was coming out of both the faucet and the showerhead(very low pressure from shower). We managed to get the diverter back in place, but now it won't turn at all and access to the shower is completely lost. I'm a working mom with a very busy schedule, and baths are not for me. Anyone know how I can fix this problem?
Harlee
Greg says: Harlee,
What brand is the valve? can you send pictures to this site or to my cell 760-788-2889? Hi there,
I just watched your video for how to replace a moen posi-temp valve. Thank you for posting a video! Last night for no apparent reason our single arm shower wouldn't turn on. The handle was kind of stuck and when my husband got it to move no water came on. The valve now turns (with pliers, no handle) but still no water. Our house is only 4 years old and we run kinetico water throughout. We will try to replace the valve tomorrow but what would be the reason for the malfunction so soon? Is this most likely to be solved by replacing the valve?
Thanks!
Allison
Allison
Greg says: Kinetico is a brand name, is the system a softener type system or a GAC system? Likely there is debris in the pipe/valve that can be from new const. or a subsequent repair to a broken water main.
Pull out the cartridge, close the shower door, turn the water on while the valve is apart, flush the valve and pipes, re install with a new OEM (made by Moen) cartridge you will be fine. We are not able to have water come out of the pex to fill our master bathroom toilet. All other faucets, showers and toilets are working properly. The toilet in the powder room, which is on the other side of the wall from the pex that is not sending any water is also working fine. I thought it might be the valve so I replaced it but when it still did not work, I removed the valve and no water came out of the pex.
Do you have any idea what could be causing this and what I might try to do to fix. I even worked a wire from an undone coat hanger up into the pex but that did not move any blockage (I believe) as the water still did not flow. I am totally at a loss and the guys at Lowe's even had no idea what it could be and if you do not either, I will have to call a plumber, i guess. Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - Lee
Lee Suckow
Greg says: Can you poke a hole from the toilet that has water thru the wall to the one that does not? Are they back to back? If so, use a push fit tee and cut the good side install a tee, an elbow thru the wall and then another angle stop. Hi Greg!
We recently purchased a townhouse, and are now starting to hear a banging noise when the water is turned on. I traced the actual banging to a hose in the basement, that is positioned into a pipe that goes below ground (public septic?) The banging noise is made when the hose bangs against the wall as water pours from it into the pipe. Any idea what is causing the hose to jump and bang like this? It wasn't happening when we first moved in. Help...the whole house hears the noise! Thanks for any direction you can provide. :)
Donna Y
Greg says: High pressure causes velocity, velocity causes banging. Loose pipes can move, movement allows banging. Septic waste is drain pipes, drain pipes do not bang unless the waste is pumped, is your waste pumped? Test the water pressure on the fresh water supply, if over 80 psi, you need a pressure reducing valve. If not, strap the loose pipe that bangs. Im gonna be adding a 1/2 bath to my basement its a new construction there is a 3/4 peks hot and cold water line running to my washer machine . Can i T off that with 3/4 and run it to both my toilet and sink or should i run a whole new line from the main
brian allard
Greg says: The Tee will likely flow enough due to the decrease in fixture flows of todays requirements I was so excited to see instructions on how to remove a shower arm that has the head attached to it.
Unfortunately, the arm is not budging. WD40 hasn't helped. It is very old and is original to the house which is 40 years old. I will most likely have to call a plumber to change it. But, at least I have some education on how it is screwed in and what needs to be done.
Celeste
Greg says: A plumber may have a better skill and tool to un screw, but it may break off on the plumber too. Extracting the broken part in the wall is done with an extractor tool. Plumber may have one, turning correctly is the trick.
Gentlemen,
Thanks for taking my question. I live in a 2 story 20 unit condominium. The water pressure to the units is 80psi. There is no pressure reducing valve to the buildings. I have replaced the water feed valves in both toilets twice in 2 years. Could the valve failure be because of the high water pressure. Thanks, Jack
Jack Adams
Greg says: Cheap angle stops sold in stores are just that. I use Wolverine Brass Mfgr. top line Finale stops, they will last couple decades. I'm having problems with the main house water inlet which is 3/4" shut off valve and would like to replace it with a new 1/2" ball valve which I've had for sometime.
My question is can I replace the 3/4" with the 1/2" ball valve, will it effect the pressure inside the house?
Our house is one story 2 baths.
Frank Lago
Greg says: Frank,
It is not to code to reduce a water line serving a building, and the min. service size is 3/4" as well. Yes it would create restriction and thus pressure loss in the dynamic water pressure. Settle a question: will just slightly turning on the main water cutoff at the meter keep the inside pressure down?
george penick
Greg says: No, water pressure will remain exactly the same. Restricting the flow will lower the flow only. So, partly closing a valve just like on a garden hose bib, less water flow will come out of the hose. But stop that flow at end of the hose, and no matter how slow the flow is, the hose will swell up and possible blow. I have a Frigidaire Dishwasher and the circulation pump only runs if I apply a little pressure to it towards the back of the washer what's causing this?
Jacob
Greg says: I do not know, plumbers usually install but not repair appliances. Use the make/model into a google search and find t shooting at Mfgr. Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: Jeanne,
I would have to see the valve as installed to say what is the issue. There are many possible reasons your not getting water as desired. Send a copy of the contract so I can see the scope of the job and parts used . I'm trying to remove a Delta tub/shower knob. I removed the cap and the screw, but the knob doesn't just come right off like the video. I've pulled and fiddled with it, but afraid I might break or damage it. Can you give any advice? I'm not a plumber, heh, just a lady in distress !! Many thanks for any advice on this ! You're video's are great, by the way...nice and clear. Thanks much !
need help
Greg says: Pull harder, even if it breaks off, you can buy a new one for $15. Let me know how you do... hi.some low-level water is running casket you release a stream of barely warm flows through what can be? combi boiler : Vitodens 100
Gedas
Greg says: Gedas,
I do not understand your comment... Here's the problem I'm having:
Hot water only dribbles out of shower (head and faucet) - and only the shower (no where else in house). Cold water runs fine.
Here's what I've done to no avail:
1. I replaced the hot water compression valve in shower faucet = no effect.
2. I let water blast out of open hot water pipe in shower = no problem.
3. I tried out the cold water valve on the hot water side = still only a dribble.
4. I tried the new hot water valve on the cold water side = works fine.
At a loss.
Neil
Greg says: The seat area has a blockage, likely a washer broke loose and is lodged into the valve body. Or the wrong seat is in the body. Hello greg,seen a few of your videos i live in phelan,ca. by victorville and had a couple questions first i got a quote from sprinkler repair guy a couple of years ago to replace my pressure regulator and also move it from in front of my home to where the meter is by the street they wanted 1100.00 approx. half was labor now my first question is how much would you charge to come up and do it and two if your price is also too steep for me could you at least tell me what parts i need and which brands you would go with? thanks alot greg! rich brock
rich brock
Greg says: What size pressure regulator? that could be a deal for a 2" unit, or too much for a 1" valve. send a pix to my cell, 760-788-2889
The faucet sprayer on my sink is a stand alone sprayer not the new pulldown sprayers. Water flows to the sprayer without a problem. However, the chrome top of the sprayer pops off when the lever is pressed on the sprayer head. Is this as simple as a washer that is missing or is the chrome top part worn?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Marie
Marie
Greg says: Marie,
Plastic parts are weak, replace the head. I looked everywhere on line and couldn't find an answer for my issue, then stumbled upon hour page, maybe you can help... My bathtub/shower faucet is leaking water from the hole under the bottom of the faucet. It leaks at a constant drip rate when just running water, but more like a spray when I pull the shower converter "thingie" Can you tell me how to fix it? Do I just need a new faucet?
Shanta
Greg says: Shanta,
The spout, not the faucet is the correct term. The spout needs replacing, likely an allen screw tightens the spout to a copper tube. Look under to see.
gutted bathroom put in new tub. decided I would put a neoangle shower in the other corner. my bathtub was piped into main drain upstairs so I figured I mite as well run the shower piping to the same place my tub was going to. I used a 1 1/2 inch pvc y conector went ahead and ran water in tub and shower no leaks put floor back in finished flooring but when the wife filled the tub and drained it the water came up in the shower pan about 1/2 inch.the water in the shower went away when the water in the tub was about 5inchs high. what did I do wrong.
not a plummer
Greg says: Shower drains are 2" min. as per code. However, that is likely not the problem. I would have to see the piping pitch (fall) and the connection to the main drain and the connection of shower to the existing pipe. If a flow restriction is downstream from a tub, the flow will go to lowest and easiest place. Blockage is a possibility, slope of pipe is another. Venting is very important in drainage each fixture needs a vent and that vent needs to be in the correct place.
I recently had 3 hose bibs replaced at a cost of over $600.00. My house was built in 1988 and plastic pipe was used. The plumber told me this pipe will need to be replaced with a newer type of plastic at a cost of over $3000.00. True or false?
spk
Greg says: Your question of true or false is not possible to answer with out knowing what material your original plastic piping is and why it is bad and what is needed to replace it. There was a piping sold and installed called "Quest" AKA Polybutelene. AKA, "PB", this grey in color is bad stuff and many re pipes cost $3,000. I do not trust just any plumber to do a full replacement of piping in these homes with PB. Details matter. I just had my tub and faucet replace and know the hot and cold faucet will not come on unless the shower is on
james
Greg says: Valve is upside down.
Hi all,
Just looking for some information on the Sewer systems in Ontario, Canada.
My house is 14 yrs old, and had a rough in put in by the builder. However, there are 2 rough ins, I am presuming one for the toilet and one for the vanity. Is that needed? I thought all the waste water goes down the same sewer system for treatment.
When I open it up, I can see one connects to the main powder room toilet sewer line. The other for the vanity is connected to the downspout (I can hear the water when it rains).
But the person put the vanity rough in where the toilet should be and the toilet's where the vanity should be. Is it ok to put in the toilet and it flushes to the waste water system?
Thanks.
Henry
Greg says: Henry,
The toilet needs a 3" drain pipe having a 2" vent, the vanity or Lavatory drain is normally 1.5 " and as well has a vent. The Lavatory normally drains into the sanitary drain, not a rain gutter downspout. We do not use combination sewer and storm drainage in the US. Greywater is used from lavatories, but that is as well not rainwater downspout connected. Rainwater should be collected, but not mixed with any sanitary drainage. We have an older house, 25 years old, we have a single control moen shower faucet in the upstairs bathroom. We want to change out the control handle, how to we determined if the valve is a shower pressure balancing valve?
Mark
Greg says: Mark,
As my videos show, the Posi Temp valve only turns, it does not pull out, or push in. The older valve design does pull on and left to right are for temp. The cart for the Posi Temp is bigger. The handles are different. hi there,
question is our water pressure is pretty low to start off in the bathroom, but to make matters worse if you flush the toliet while the shower or bath is running it stops and nothing but a little stream comes out until the toliet is full. And it isnt just the toilet using any sink in the house will cause the same issue!!
help,
sincerely,
jessica
jessica
Greg says: Jessica,
You are on city water or well water, if on city water wahat is the pressure at the meter? do you have a pressure regulator? if so is it old? , Hello. Its been -30 here for two days so i left my bathroom and kitchen faucets dripping slightly. I woke up and now the kitchen faucet pressure has decreased by 90%. Its a single-handle faucet, no pressure for hot or cold. The bathroom sink, tub and washing machine is fine for pressure. What could this be?
Note -- all pipes are insulated in the crawlspace and the temp down there has remained above 3+ degrees.
Tamara
Greg says: Tamara,
Any temp below 32 degrees for a few hrs. will freeze water in pipes. Insulation only delays ice! 10 degrees will freeze well insulated pipes in a couple hrs. There is no water flow when you turn on the hot water
Dana woodard
Greg says: The cold water supply the the water heater is off. Look on top of water heater the right side inlet pipe should have a shut off valve on it.
What would cause the hot water to stop working in all faucets
.
Dana woodard
Greg says: Do you mean no flow of water, or flow is there but cold? i am moving a laundry room from basement to the first floor . i am a licensed electrician so i have that part down lol i am installing a drain pan under the washer , were do i need to run that drain to ? and do i need to install a P trap in this drain ? the drain pan has a 1" knock out in it for the drain .other then these questions i feel i have this under control . thank you for your help
Will
Greg says: The drain pan is usually 2" deep & square and a fitting comes with it, this is normally 1" pvc sch 40 pipe to outdoors using as few elbows as possible directly thru the exterior wall that is closest. An exterior wall is needed, unless you set the washer and pan up off floor so the drain pipe can be pitched 1/4" per ft. fall to a floor drain. No trap needed as this is not a drain pipe connected to the building drain having sewer gases. This is only used if a leak is with in the machine, and it then just goes outdoors. The waste water from the washer can be used as greywater outdoors and not directed into the building drain. But, is the waste water is dumped into the sanitary drain, it is trapped and vented as per code using a 2" standpipe having a trap above the floor that it sets on. either within the wall or out, but trapped. I recently replaced the cartridge in a Moen diverter valve (not bath tub). Now I'm getting a little trickle leak that seems to be coming from the threads where the screw that holds the handle is mounted. Should I just put some plumbers putty or silicon in the hole before I install the screw or, get a new cartridge?
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff,
You say diverter valve, do you have more than one shower head? are you using the term correctly? If you actually have a Moen diverter valve, it will use the Magnum cartridge, and that needs to be OEM, not just "Fits" Moen. No, putty or silicone is not the answer. By Moen, is the OEM way to go, spin offs do not work most of the time. I have tankless heater system; my 1st bathroom sink gets hot water faster then than kitchen sink and master bathroom shower 3 more minute.
I watched the link :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE2QFLlEXNw
shown the recirculation pump installed under faucet/vanity.
1. Does this pump work with my tankless heater system?
2. You mentioned that it needs to have TACO RECIRCULATION PUMP because it flows more water that suits the tankless system. What kind of TACO PUMP MODEL and serial number for specific one?
Thanks for your responses.
Thanh Nguyen
Thank for your ansswer
TN
Greg says: Go online to the site that is the manufacturer of your unit, look at the model # read the requirements for a circulator. Some tankless units have built in controls for circulators, some units require a specific gpm. Any flow trigers the big burner, a pump could double the gas consumption.
There are issues with heat loss in the pipe, some tankless units are not very smart when it comes to re heating circulated water. I installed a new aerator, and water is coming out to strong and hard, please help,,, mechanicly challenged.
Bill Harris
Greg says: Use a lower GPM aerator, the GPM is listed on the side of the body of the aerator. Kitchen is 1.8 gpm, 1.2 for Lav. and .5 for comercial Lav. I showered this morning and it worked just fine. Not to long ago I went into the bathroom and now the lower shower spout leaks when it is shut off and it barely flows when the shower is turned on. What is wrong?
Corey
Greg says: You say the lower shower spout, do you mean the tub spout? You say it leaks when shut off, do you have a one handle tub & shower valve with a diverter spout, and the spout does not divert all the water? or the spout drips when the valve is off? or do you have a three handle valve? what brand, you give me little to understand. Can you send me a picture? here, or to my cell 760-788-2889? Can I replace a standard cartridge with a posi-temp cartridge in a single handle shower control?
John
Greg says: No, the dia. is larger in the posi temp cartridge. Why am I smelling and hearing wastewater from downstairs toilet? Both noise and smell appear to be coming from the upstairs tub that hasn't been used often.
drm
Greg says: The p trap has evaporated from lack of use, put a quart of water in it asap! Hi Greg;
We have a 15 year-old hot water recirc. system that has worked flawlessly. We recently started losing water pressure in our master shower and a plumber replaced an extremely deposited Delta single lever valve. Since that valve replacement, our shower and the vanity closest to the shower seem to have been removed from the recirculation system as we have to let the water run a LONG time before it heats up in those two locations. The rest of the house hot water recirculation works normally. I've also noticed that opening the hot water at another location in that bathroom severly decreases the water pressure in either the shower or the vanity. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Mark S
Greg says: Mark,
There are too many variables to ask you about, this is something that is best looked at in person. You likely have a restriction in the pipes, but the piping in houses is not all done the same, let alone correctly. The Long time wait might be from the lower flow of newer fixtures, try removing aerators or shower head and noting the flow increase as well as quicker to when hot water is hot. What did the plumber install to replace the old shower valve, I bet the flows are half the older flow. Having trouble figuring out why I don't have any water coming out of the hot water side on any faucet in the building!!! Cold water flows just fine, just not from the hot water side??? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Maggie Williams
Greg says: Maggie,
Is the water supply to the water heater shut off? When you say building, do you mean a single family building, or what? How old, I need more info. I bought an American Standard Colony Soft single control pull down faucet about 1 1/2 years ago. Had no problems with it until recently. It started leaking down below the sink, only when the water is running. Both hot and cold water. I called American Standard, and they sent me a new cartridge, but it still leaks. Any thoughts?
Mickey D
Greg says: Yes, the leak is not in the cartridge it is in the body and or the discharge hose connection. I solve by removing the faucet and hooking it up to water supply while not on the sink top. look into the faucet body to see exactly the source of the leak. have had my shower fixed twice first time he just put washers in and new taps after that my shower is hot and cold wont regulate so they got another plumber in and its still the same,
Ark
Greg says: Ark,
I need to know what you mean by "Taps", stems,handles, valves,? send a picture so I know what valve you have. 3 handle, 2 handle, 1 handle, modern anti-scald type, or old compression type? you tell me little that I can use to help. Hi All,
About 3 years ago, We had a drain added for a washing machine inside the
house. It was added into the drain line for the sink/garbage disposal
with a "y" valve. Recently, I noticed that water is backing up more and
more into our sink and takes 10-15 minutes to drain. After doing some
inspection and troubleshooting, it looks like the install is causing the
problem. The "Y" joint with the washing machine is now sagging and
there is quite a bit of build up due to improper drainage (3 years
worth). I've tried a garden hose with pressure, using a pipe auger, and
a few other methods under the house with no luck. My next inclination
is to cut a section of the pipe out where the clog is, remove the clog,
and add strapping, etc to let gravity correct the problem. Any advice
appreciated.
Gregh
Greg says: Greg,
Yes, any sag will cause a build up of fats, oils and grease,(FOG). I suspect you meant to say fitting when you said,"valve". Because valves in a drain waste and vent system are rare. Hot water after the blocked up water has drained out fully, (overnight) might help soften the FOG plug, then apply enzymes to digest it on a regular basis. That is to say, some restaurants use enzyme nightly. You might need them every 3 or 4 months. I as well assume the Y is in fact a Y and not a tee. If so great, as a tee is for vertical installations only. Is this in a crawl space?, A hair dryer might warm up the wye. Cutting it out is needed if not and / or if the proper pitch is only possible if so. Kitchen and laundry waste water are a problematic mix due to the FOG and lint combing forming what you have.
Can you waste the laundry water to the outdoors for landscape water? We recently moved into a new house (built in 2008). The water pressure is so high that my wife can't use the shower. I measured it with a gauge and it was right around 100. Adjusting the pressure regulator seems simple enough but the problem is I can't find it. The house has a slab foundation and there are no visible pipes entering the home. I've looked in the attic where the hot water heater is and under sinks etc. but with no luck. Is it possible that I don't have a regulator or is it just buried/hidden somewhere? Thanks!
Scott
Greg says: Look at the water meter, just after it on the house side. If no regulator there in a rectangle valve box, install one there. My video shows how. Often a house shut off valve is on the exterior wall of the garage and sometimes just inside the wall behind a hose bib that is on exterior of that garage wall. My spray wand on my kitchen faucet was leaking so I had it removed. Now I'm not getting any hot water. Any clue what the issue might be?
Susan Harvey
Greg says: Is the hot water shut off valve open? Hi Greg
You answered my question about capping off my tub spout since I'm waiting on a diverter (they're not even sure it'll be the right one) and from what I can see using a magnify glass, the inside of the diverter valve looks corroded too (I know these terms from looking on the net, so I'm no plumber). You said an option would be to replace the spout with a diverter type. I did, and now the water flows through the shower head like we want instead of both places at the same time (wasting so much water). Thanks for the help. We live mostly on my VA disability, and I don't have paypal, so in the next month or a little after, I'd like to send you something for helping me. Where could I send it to? I honestly appreciate the advise. You can email with the address if you'd like. Again, thanks.
Donald Romesburg Jr.
Greg says: Don,
My address is 15725 Snuz Mtn. Rd. Ramona Ca. 92065. You are so kind.
Also squirt vinegar into the valve body to dissolve the hard water build up. Then butter up the new diverter with faucet grease, not pipe dope, but faucet grease, either non hardening silicone paste or the Teflon paste used to lube o rings you can get at swimming pool supply stores. kitchen tap is spraying water horizontally rather than vertically - does that mean it needs a new washer?
Thanks
Ilana
Greg says: Your description tells me little, I can not see what you see, so those words are not enough. "Tap", you mean kitchen faucet, spout? Or from under the handle, or the aerator? from the pivot of the spout ? Some faucets do not even have washers to replace! Hello
Tub spout leaks a lot of water when I turn the middle handle to get a shower. I took the diverter out and it looks corroded. I'm waiting on a Streamway diverter for my Moen shower to be shipped. Diverter looks simple enough...packing nut, plastic stem attached to a brass end. I'm thinking if the diverter valve inside is corroded too, and it still leaks, could I possibly cap off the tub spout so all the water comes through the shower head until I get the money to replace the entire works? I'd really appreciate any info. Thank you in advance.
Donald Romesburg Jr.
Greg says: Use a diverter tub spout, then all is optional. I replaced my hot water heater with a brand new 40 gallon rhuell from home depot. My wife says that if she fills the bathtub with hot water and then tries to rinse her hair there is no hot water. Is it something mechanical I didn't do correctly, like purge the system or did I not buy a large enough water heater. Also I had replaced the supply line from the city in the spring because of bad water pressure. Not sure if the improved water pressure has something to do with my problem. Thanks.
Corey
Greg says: Corey,
The incoming winter water temps. are low! the water heater is tasked with raising the temp about 70 degrees in the winter instead of 40 degrees in the summer. Another issue is the temp loss between the wtr. htr. and the tub. If in concrete slab, you will lose over 10 degrees in that distance. All the losses add up. The 40 gal tank is a small tank. I never use a 40 when tub then shower to rinse hair is needed. Raising the storage temp is an option, but increases scalding possibilities. The thermostats are adjustable. Caution there is a code on this issue. there is also devices that can be used. I ordered a repair kit for a Delta 600. It was a little different than the parts on your video. The ball had one large hole on the bottom and four small holes on top. Also, the plastic piece that went over the ball was one piece, no adjusting ring. I replaced this to repair a leak. Now I have about half the water pressure to the shower head. I removed the all parts and turned the water on and it appeared to have good pressure. I assume there is an issue with the parts in this kit?
Jamie
Greg says: The ball needs to be the same, that is what could be reducing the flow. Use the old ball to see if the flow will resume. The stainless balls are best. The cups and springs are the leak issues normally, rarely the ball unless it is gouged and not smooth. the seal on that is tightened by the dome and ring, just reuse the ring. First of all I know nothing about plumbing. My daughter bought a house 5 years ago. She told me that every winter, and only in the winter, the water flow to the shower slows down about 90%. The hot water is still hot but not much of it. It never happens in the summer time. She is not married and has no help in this matter. What should I do about this? Does the shower head have anything to do with it?
john john
Greg says: John,
The heat is lost on the way to the shower, many issues can be present, Call me 760-788-2889, my cell, tell me your the guy online not a customer that I do work for here....I live/work in both on line and physical worlds. I watched the video on repairing a leaky delta shower valve and was hoping to see that the dome would not come off as easily on the video. Your solution was to tap the dome with a wrench...that did not work...So after several shots of wd-40 over a period of 3-4 days...it still does not want to loosen...and of course, I dont want to push it. Would applying cold (ice) or heat help. .? any advice would be appre ciated. Thanks..Ed
ED MACKEY
Greg says: Yes, heat works like melting ice cream! Apply heat to dome and tap and it will spin off. I use a torch on low setting. No worries about melting the plastic under the dome, it is replaced with full kit anyway. I just got a water circulation pump and I stumbled across your page while looking for directions to install it.
I'd rather not run a whole return line, but I hate wasting water waiting for the kitchen sink or the shower to warm. It looks like hooking it between the hot and cold lines under my back bathroom sink would eliminate a LOT of the water waste, at least it'll help get it to the back of the house for my 4:30 am shower, then my son's at 6.
I just couldn't believe it's that easy.
I have another idea for saving that shower water. One could use a vaccuum switch safely mounted right in the shower for a valve to divert and save the cold water (until it gets warm) for the garden, lawn, etc.
It sounds pretty far out, but somebody might run with it.
Steve Richardson
Greg says: Easy if you do it right and your house lay out is linear. The other systems on the market are a bit different and some have better effect in some piping layouts. Thanks for saving the fluid that binds us all...
Greg I have installed a 2nd hand sink with a mixer tap and joined the water supply into existing lines. I only get water running through the new sink/tap if I have another tap running and its only through the hot water. There is a flow regulator on the cold line in... The existing lines are on mains pressure... what am I missing?
Jason
Greg says: Jason,
The correct way is to use separate angle stops for each faucet, however Tees can be installed on the outlets of one existing pair of stops. Turn off the stops remove the tubes, put a tee for second faucet, put tube on new tee side outlet to new faucet. I just replaced a moen single control cartridge in my shower to stop a leak, that worked just fine, but now when I pull out the handle to turn on the water it pulls part way back and reduces water flow. What did I miss when I put it back together?
Eric
Greg says: Eric,
Did you use a Moen Magnum cartridge made by Moen for Moen, and not a "fits Moen" by Lasco or Danco? Did you look into the valve body to see that no debris was left in there by the old cartridge? What is the water pressure in the building? Needs to be less than 80 psi. When pressures are above that, the valves leak, since your old one leaked, it might be the original cause and still present. I RECENTLY REPLACED A BATHROOM FAUCET.NOW AT THAT FAUCET I HAVE LOW PRESSURE WHEN I TURN IT ON BUT IF I TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON I GET GOOD PRESSURE. THE REST OF THE HOUSE HAS GOOD PRESSURE. PLEASE ADVISE AS TO WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE. THANKS
GARY KERN
Greg says: Gary,
Sorry to pry into your budget choices, but is the faucet one of the made in China plastic Home Depot/Lowes/retail faucets? Did you replace the angle stops and supply tubes below the faucet at the wall? What make is it?? When you say bathroom faucet, do you mean sink or tub, or shower? I just bought a new Marguette pressure balancing bath and shower set. After it was installed I have no pressure and cannot get enough hot water to take a bath. I don't know what to do.
Fran
Greg says: Fran, you give me little to go on, I assume you installed it ? and after doing so the flow was restricted? The Marguette brand is made by who? is the valve installed in the wall the floor or the deck of the tub, and the piping to it made of what and what is your water pressure and is the screen on the inlet clean if there is one? I had the same bathtub for about 25 years. Just remodeled my bathroom and the bathtub was replaced. Now the water pressure can not be regulated. I'm told that it is just the way new plumbing fixtures work these days to conserve water and to prevent burns. I don't like it at all. Is there anything that can be done?
Ginger
Greg says: Ginger,
More homework is required before remodeling. There are tub & shower valves costing $200 and $2,000. some thermostatic design, others pressure balance, some have volume control and temp control separate, while the cheaper ones do not. The mandated flow maximum is 2 gallons per min. from the head, no max from the tub spout. I have a Kohler single control side control faucet in my kitchen. I just replaced the Ceramic Disc Cartridge, it's made by Danco (Compare to Kohler GP1016515). I now have extremely low flow of water, both hot and cold, and both together. How tight should the Rough Plate Bonnet be? What could I have done wrong on the install to cause this? The reason I replaced it was the plastic tabs broke off in the stem and the Stem Adadpter broke and was for most part gone when I opened the mechanism up to investigate.
M Welsh
Greg says: First off I would never use Danco stems or cartridges, they are made in China and have tolerance issues when subjected to hot and cold temps that are 50 degrees apart in as little as 1/16th. of an inch. If a kohler faucet stiffens up it is likely from hard water and or corrosive water and the hard water crystals could have been dislodged and plugged up one of those small water passages. The aerator has a passage for the water of about 1/16th. of an inch that pluge up easy, remove the aerator and clean. Greg, I have a recirculating hot water system in my house that works really well for bathrooms 50 feet away from the tanked water heater. However, when my kids and grands all visit simultaneously, we occasionally run out of hot water. So I installed a 5 GPM tankless heater into the inlet side of my tanked water heater. I now have plenty of hot water, however, with the recirculating pump running, the tankless unit trips it's reset button because of the constant water flow through it. Turn the pump off and it takes several gallons of wasted water for hot water to reach the distant showers. Is there some type of valve, switch, or other device that you know of that would allow the pump and tankless heater to operate togather?
Kenneth Elkins
Greg says: Decrease the circulator gpm to less that the tankless unit requires to ignite and heat water. Use a restrictor on the pump return pipe. 1/4 gmp should do. Hey Greg,
My hot water heater makes a "bang" after it completes its heating cycle, it hadnt always done this, but has recently started and is getting stronger. It's a 40gl Whirlpool gas heater, maybe 2 years old, no expansion tank on the cold side. Are there any remedies, I've read on a forum that rotating the baffle was a cure that Rheem recommended to a customer and that worked. But I'm skeptical of that being a cure all. Trying that, if possible to do from on top where the vent hood is mounted.
Many Thanks,
Jason
Jason
Greg says: Jason,
Yes rotating the baffle in the flue is one thing, another is as tanks age the hard water builds up and pops off the inner walls, just a natural thing from hard water. I have a triplex and the bottom units cold water isn't running. The hit remains intact. The toilet still flushes. Help. I don't want to hire a plumber if I can trouble shoot on my own.
Saira Moore
Greg says: Saira,
What do you mean by the "Hit" remains in tact? The toilet still flushes means what? that the water is flowing to the toilet? You tell me very little. The bottom unit means what? it is a 3 story unit, a 2 story unit, or the bottom unit is a basement? The hot water flows or not? the hose bibs flow? the water meter is on or off? I recently had very little water pressure in my bathtub and shower only and I replace the hot water stem which did nothing but while the stem was out we turned on the water and the water pressure was great shot all the way across the shower so what would you advise ??
MARGIE
Greg says: The head and or the spout have a restriction, is there a center diverter v alv e stem, or a diverter spout? Hi Greg,
Thank you, this is a follow up to your answer to my question about sudden change in how long hot water is taking to heat.
We live in the desert area of California.
We had a single handle faucet installed 3 months ago and the problem with water temperature just began.
I had a GRUNDFOS Nonsumersile Circulation Pump installed last year. I turned on about an hour ago and it doesn't make a difference. The needle looks like it is pointed at "PC" Is this the circulation system you were referring to?
I appreciate your help!!!!!
Thank you,
Diane
Diane
Greg says: Great pix, please see the e mail I sent you. Hopefully it was sent to you, if not call me. 760-788-2889, here is what I sent, Diane,
the un insulated section in the pipe above the pump is a check valve, turn the pump on and tap on that valve as it could be stick shut stopping the flow of the water. Another thing to do is turn on the pump and off and back on to listen to the flow of water in the pipe, or the motor turning. Also is there another blue lever handle like the one at the pipe coming out of the wall? There should be and that lever needs to be inline with the pipe, not opposing or crossing the pipe direction. The ball valve has only a 90 degree range of turn. Let me know what you find. Call me tomorrow or now.
HI,
i am having a sudden change in how long it is taking for hot water to get to shower. Bathroom redone about 3 years ago. Gas hot water heater is 1996. What could be cause of problem before I pay a plumber?
Thank you
Diane
Greg says: Diane,
Avg. life on a gas water heater is 8 to 10 yrs. Water quality issues make a difference, the southwest is hard water, where are you? Winter is colder, so the water in pipes is colder when is cools down after no flow for 5 min. Do you have a circulation system on the hot side? if so it might be defective for some reason like age. Sometimes someone installs a single handle faucet in the house and after that the cold pushes thru to the hot side blending the hot water to warm, have you installed any fixtures lately? We recently installed a Kohler Purest floor mounted tub filler with a hand shower. We pulled the diverter to move water to the hand shower, but now it won't go back to the main faucet. We have taken apart the hose and made sure it was clear of obstructions and also tightened all connections. What do we need to do to get the vacuum to allow the water back to main spout?
Thanks so much!!
Greg says: Sorry, I know nothing about that valve. The kohler factory service can help. Hard water is likely the cause. Floor mounted tub fillers were done away with for a reason 50 yrs. ago. Trend brings them back, but wall mounted single handle tub/shower valves are less trouble and cost. Hello
I turn on my shower and my bathtub get full of water and when I turn it off it goes away .
Why does it do that ?
Thank you
DP
Greg says: Are you saying the tub is not part of the shower? are you saying the water comes up from the drain? when you say it goes away, you mean down the drain? If so the drains are connected and after the two join thear is a restriction in the drain line. Enzymes might improve and maintain, but likely hair is causing blockage and a snake is needed. We added a bathroom in our basement. Since then when someone is in either shower on the 2nd floor they get scalding water if someone uses faucets or toilets on the mainfloor. We cant also get hot water in the kitchen sink if either shower is on. What do you think the issue is.
tnelly
Greg says: Tom,
Plumbing water supply pipes are supposed to be sized professionally, not just added to any which way. Balancing valves can be installed in showers to reduce the imbalance. Water pressure on both cold and hot sides needs to be equal or checked so when one side lowers, the higher pressure side does not push over to the lower side. Check valves can stop this, but check valves can cause problems. Thermal expansion is another issue that creates pressure imbalances, there are codes to regulate this. You have a potential scald risk and this is why some DIY projects are not DIY projects. You have codes and safety issues above what I can resolve in an E mail... Piping has a path of most, or least resistance, you are seeing an imbalance. A professionally trained plumber is needed to apply pressure balancing valves and thermal expansion tanks, and possibly check valves in the branches, but only as a last resort, as I said, check valves are problematic except at the fixture its self. Greg,
Thanks for the quick reply. The leak is like a slow drip, and dripping from the top of the kitchen cabinet.
Hopefully we can get this resolved with minimal damage. The toilet seal ws just replaced last year, but I did go ahead and check it just to be sure. But the leak that facilitated THAT was in a totally different spot in the kitchen, so I don't know. Thanks again for your response and time answering.
Jessica
Greg says: If the toilet is loose, it will leak even if it was replaced yesterday!, therefore if the leak is new, and the toilet not loose, there is likely not a wax seal causing the water in the cabinet. Look at the outside wall from the ground and line up the cabinet leak with a window upstairs, then go up stairs to see what fixture is at that place. likely the tub overflow or valve trim or shower arm. Look to see if the wall seal in the tub or shower is secure. See what fixture causes the leak, if one does it is that fixture. If the leal is constant even after 4 days of no use, then the leak is likely another fixture, or a supply pipe leaking in the wall 24/7. Our drain in our garden tub got stuck in the closed position so we had to remove the pipes to get to the place where the lever connects to the actual plunger. We removed everything and found the round piece where the lever connects was cracked. All well and good, we are going to replace that piece. However we noticed, that same day after removing those drain pipes, a leak into our kitchen from the upstairs bathroom. Could it just be coincidence this occurred after we started working on the drain and the leak could be coming from somewhere else, like the shower or toilet? Thanks for any info!
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,
Anything is possible as well often many leaks are present when I go to a job and the only coincidence is a good thing because I only have to charge them to show up once. Drain waste pipes are not connected to supply water pipes and walls hide many things. Tracing the leak upward to its origin is how leaks are found since water flown down hill. Check to see if the toilet is loose to the floor, if it is that needs re setting anyway, it could be a source as well of water in wall/ceiling. You tell me very little of the ceiling/upstairs leak so I am just guessing. I just replaced a moen push pull cartridge in my bathtub/shower. It works fine except when I screw the knob on, it pulls the valve open so I get a drizzle leak. This has happened with the last two cartridges I've replaced, I've never had this problem before that.
Jeff
Greg says: The sleeve that goes over the brass valve body or the trim plate is hitting the handle and opening the stem of the valve. Use the spacer that comes with the cartridge that goes on the stem before the handle so the handle does not pull so close . I would like to start by saying I know nothing about plumbing. The spout diverter lever broke in my shower. I paid good money for a brownish, Delta set and so disappointed it didn't even last a year! How would I go about repairs?
Susana
Greg says: Susana,
You say good money, no money is bad money unless wasted. Brownish Delta set, you must be talking about the finish of the product? Do you mean oil rubbed bronze finish? and by set you mean a tub spout and a shower head? or the valve body and the trim with handle and spout and head? Most all products sold in home centers is sold for looks only and the brand name is only the name, but Delta and others are all made in China and last a couple yrs. then fall apart. This way the store can sell another and you lose. I hear and see this everyday. This is what retail plumbing has been reduced to. There are products that last and work well but they cost excellent money. As for Delta, they sell a tub spout that diverts by pulling down on the opening, instead of lifting up on a knob. This is a good product and they might not come in oil rubbed bronze finish. The failure in the one you got was what? it stopped diverting the water? No, replaced watt with a wilkin. Was able to thread on
Jason
Greg says: If it holds, that is good, but I think Watts union threads are finer than Wilkins. Greg says: Different regulator valves are different physical size or length, as well as use different union threads. Is it on copper pipe? is the existing one threaded on to pipe thread or soldered union having union threads? send pix. I will tell you. If copper, shark bite fittings will attach.
Hey Greg,
Pretty sure its soldered with union threads. I was able to remove and replace with similar PRV, lastnight, though I didnt replace the unions. So far, pressure is back to normal, around 50-55 psi, the whistling is gone, and no drop in water pressure when running water. Hopefully, the unions are close enough to exact that it wont require removing and installing the unions that came with the new PRV.
Jason
Greg says: Is the new valve same brand as old one? I recently replace the shower head on my upstairs shower... all i did was replace the head. A few hours later, I flushed the toilet and noticed the shower started leaking from the shower head. I turned the knob to run out of the tub, and the tub also leaked out... now it is a constant leak out of either the shower head or the faucet, and its hot water... No idea what happened?!
danny
Greg says: Replacing a shower head has no effect on any other fixture in the plumbing system what so ever. Flushing a toilet, causes water dynamic pressure to drop, that can cause any fixture to respond. Especially when the toilet fill valve closes with a hammer force causing dynamic pressure to spike high. You likely have a pressure regulator problem. See my videos on water pressure regulators. Get a pressure gauge and test your pressure. get back top me with results. Greg says: Did you replace or reduce the pressure regulator? Is it over 8 yrs. old? Likely needs replacing. What is the street pressure? what make model and size of pressure regulator?
Jason says:
I tried reducing the pressure to see if the whistling would go away, and it isn't as strong as before, but the pressure is too low. I believe this regulator to be over 8 years old, it's a Watts N35B 1". Their website says it's obsolete, now, so I'm assuming it's past due. There is some calcium build up around the unions.
Will I be able to get a replacement that will thread right on?
Many thanks,
Jason
Jason H
Greg says: Different regulator valves are different physical size or length, as well as use different union threads. Is it on copper pipe? is the existing one threaded on to pipe thread or soldered union having union threads? send pix. I will tell you. If copper, shark bite fittings will attach. Greg:
I have two hot water heaters in my home. Only one supplies my master bathtub and lavatory and one upstairs bath. The problem is in my master bath. The water in my tub runs slowly with a wiggly stream. I just had my hotwater heater's rod replaced because when I turned the water on, it spit and sputtered the whole time it was running. It was pretty bad. But it now runs slow. Starts out full pressure, but in about 5 seconds, it slows down. Lavatory barely runs if the tub faucet is on. Have you any idea what to do?
Nancy Hundley
Greg says: Nancy,
You have electric water heaters? My guess is you have debris in the pipe/valve somewhere. Hey Greg,
I've been getting a whistling sound from a common wall between my tub/shower and toilet in my upstairs master bathroom. It happens when I turn on my faucets-- upstairs master bath sinks and occasionally shower/tub, the kitchen sink, the downstairs 1/2 bath sink and toilet, the upstairs 2nd bathroom sink and tub, and even my hose bib in the back yard. The whistling isn't constant, but starts just after i turn on the water, then stops after a second or two, which also coincides a loss of water pressure, then the whistle comes back about 2-3 seconds after I turn the water off and only lasts a second.
I tried reducing the pressure, which eliminated most of the whistling on the cold side of the tap, but was still there on the hot side, just not as strong.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Jason
JasonH
Greg says: Did you replace or reduce the pressure regulator? Is it over 8 yrs. old? Likely needs replacing. What is the street pressure? what make model and size of pressure regulator? My shower is has a very low water flow when running hot water; it will flow out of the spout just fine but when the diverter is engaged the water will run ok for a minute and then start trickling. I thought it could maybe be a clogged shower head so I replaced it but it did not fix the problem. I am also getting extremely low water flow in the downstairs half bathroom and the washing machine is taking forever to fill, both problems with hot water. The other bathroom shower is not as bad but water is not coming out through all of the holes in the shower head; this shower head has also been replaced.
Greg says: Jennifer
The common thread is the water htr. The hot and cold nipples on top are likely corroded and restricting the flow. Remove both and inspect. Greg says: Water in upstairs bathroom? you mean shower, tub & Shower combo, you mean lavatory faucet, having a single handle or two handle? Brands and age of faucets, water pressure in the house, I need info.
Hi Greg,
To answer your questions...
The water in the upstairs bathtub and shower is where the issue is, I haven't noticed if the sink is doing the same thing.
It's a single handle in the tub, and sink Moen is the brand its a clear plastic pull out and twist handle
No idea about the age it was here when we moved in 5 years ago,
Water pressure is good no issue with pressure unless something else is running like dishwasher, toilet, washer or downstairs sink.
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,
Likely there is water crossing thru the Moen single handle valve. Water pressure is a double edged problem. If a pressure regulator is bad, it can restrict flow when using water while also let pressure that should be held back get thru when no water is flowing. This allows street pressure in while no water is flowing then low pressure while water is flowing. Like I said double issue. I would check static pressure with a gauge with no water flowing for 10 min. that means no water used automatically by an ice maker or water filter, or a leaky toilet or any thing leaking. Then I would watch my video on changing a Moen shower valve. If you have the push pull and turn you have the older Moen, (the smaller cartridge) Use only made by Moen not made to fit Moen parts. We are having trouble with water temperature difference in the upstairs bathroom
All of a sudden the water in the upstairs bathroom is coming out significantly cooler than it has in the past even when turned all the way to hot .
This wasn't an issue before, the water used to come out hot upstairs so I don't think it's a case of cooling in uninsulated pipes on the way up. The main floor and basement are coming out hot when turned to hot.
What could be the issue?
Jessica
Greg says: Water in upstairs bathroom? you mean shower, tub & Shower combo, you mean lavatory faucet, having a single handle or two handle? Brands and age of faucets, water pressure in the house, I need info. We just replaced the valve on our Kohler single handle kitchen faucet. Now we have no hot water from that faucet.
Greg says: Carol,
You give me little info. What valve, the one in the faucet? the stop below the sink that supplies water to the faucet? What type of Kohler kitchen faucet, a pull out spout, a pull down or one with a side spray that pulls out?
Why did you replace the "Valve" did it leak, was it old? did it not shut off the water to the faucet? Give me more to go on...
The shower head drips water when the valve is off. There is no bath and the shower may be original. The house was built in 1963. I know that showers and bathtubs installed more recently have detachable cartridges built into the valve. Is there any way that I can find out whether the shower valve has a removable cartridge without disassembling or removing the parts?
Victor Walsh
Greg says: Victor,
Likely it is PP valve, send me a picture to greg@ramonasplumber.com or to my cell 760-788-2889 I will tell you what you need to know. There is an upgrade stem for PP and suggest that if the valve is PP that you up fit the valve body to the new ceramic stems.
PP= Price Phister. Water has started coming out of our shower when we run the dishwasher, use the kitchen sink or even flush the toilet (although it's clean water). What's wrong and Please tell me this is an easy fix!!
Greg says: Out of our shower , do you mean drain or head?, if head you have pressure regulator problems. If drain you have a main line blockage. Find and remove the building drain clean out in the ground. My lever handle kitchen faucet is sticking when turned. My husband just installed it 1 month ago. What could be the problem and how do I fix it?
Anon
Greg says: Doris,
You give me zero to work with, brand of faucet, sticking how? If the faucet was bought at a home ctr. for less than $250, it is likely cheap china made product of un repairable nature. Most of the retail low end faucets last less than 2 yrs. The makers and sellers love the repeat purchases. I can advise on Grohe or Wolverine Brass faucets or a real US made faucet. Names aside I remove most every faucet I am called to deal with. Plastic and die cast pot metal is not a good material for plumbing fixtures. I have a moentrol shower system. You pull the handle and it engages the shower (no tub/spout). We changed the trim kit and now the handle is metal (instead of plastic) but we find that when we try to turn it full hot/cold that the handle 'falls' and moves by itself out of selected temperature. I cannot find any info regarding this problem. I've made sure everything is tightened up and still the problem exists.
We replaced both of our systems in the house however the one with a bathspout diverter does not have this problem just teh shower.
Could this be a pressure problem? Would that mean replacing the valve?
Rose
Greg says: I have seen this problem many times, I would never change a Moen stem to having a lever handle. If the handle is counter weighted, that will fix the problem. Mr. Moen is rolling over in his grave with these chinese imported parts and trendy things being done to his original design. That product was designed to have no rotational weight on the handle, balance is needed. Hello,
I recently was having an issue with my upstairs Shower. there was no hot water coming from the faucet only cold. It was a single handle Kohler shower faucet. The first thing I thought to do was replace the valve, so I did. Everything worked perfectly for about 2 months. Randomly one day my daughter said the shower wasn't working. When I went to turn it on the water barely trickles out and its scalding hot. Could this be yet another valve issue or something else?
Nick Crews
Greg says: Nick,
Possibly you fixed a symptom and left the cause. I suspect debris in the pipe. Remove the shower head, look in the inlet, what do you see?
I recently replaced the cartridges in a shower only faucet. It took months to get the cartridges since they were exclusive to Renovator's Supply and 20-30 years old. Renovator's had a hard time locating them. I had them installed for a few weeks with no problems, but the house is not occupied and the shower not used. I turned off the water to the shower and drained the line for a few days to work on something else and when I turned the water back on, the faucet lever on one side would not stay in the off position. The weight of the lever opened the faucet. So, for now I switched the hot and cold cartridges and positioned the levers so in the down position the water is off and quarter turn straight up is full on. The problem faucet won't stay in an in between position. These are ceramic cartridges. Any fixes? I've thought of an O ring, but that would wear out fairly quickly, right?
Marianne Arnold
Greg says: I have seen this with heavy handles, counter weight the handles and problem solved. I have an old fiberglass tub with a three stem faucet. The tub cracked and I fixed it but then the faucet lost water pressure on the hot side only and water drips (a lot) from the middle diverter valve. I got one of those tools designed to remove the stem valve thinking I would replace the whole faucet unit with a Kohler replacement faucet I found on line. The faucet name is Trend and it is very old. Anyway I got it out , after much effort, but since I thought I had to turn off the water supply to the house to accomplish this task I put it back in until I could get the replacement parts. So when I went back to take it out my tool just slipped around and wouldn't get it loose. I guess I tightened it too much. Is there anything I can do now to get it out? I am just stuck and need to fix this tub situation. Is there something I can do to the value to make it fit tightly in the wrench? I am not able to use a plumber right now. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. pf
pf
Greg says: I am not sure the tool is the right size, how deep in the wall is the stem and what is the size, send a pix?
I had a plumber install a Watts pressure reducing valve and an Amtrol thermal expansion tank which I purchased. Amtrol sized it for me and told me make sure the installer reads the instructions before installing because many people don't and install them incorrectly and don't even realize they aren't working. So I tell that to the plumber. He does the install and leaves. I review his work and 1st sentence of Amtrol doc says install it on the cold water line. He installed it on the hot water line. I call Amtrol they say it's ok on the hot water line. I call the hot water heater manufacturer Rheem and they say it depends on the fittings whether they are ball or flapper. Rheem doc shows it on the cold water line.
Which line should a thermal expansion tank be installed on?
We have an irrigation system and it is one inch copper pipe attached to the homes 3/4 inch copper pipe two feet above the hot water heater. I am thinking it should be attached directly to the pipe after the water meter but before the pressure regulator so it runs at higher pressure. The pressure is 110 coming in from the street. I set it to 60 with the pressure regulator so the house and irrigation system are at 60 and big difference to irrigation system as some heads fail to return and rotate. What pressure do you recommend for the irrigation system and what pressure for the house?
I've watched your video regarding shark bites and pressure regulator installation. How long can I expect a shark bite fitting to last as opposed to a soldered copper fitting?
Thank you so much. As you know, even when you call the company's tech support the experience level of the people you get is questionable. God bless! And thanks in advance.
Pete
Pete
Greg says: Pete,
The pressure regulator is best at the meter so to reduce the pressure for everything to below 80 psi. 110 psi is way too much pressure for irrigation valves or heads or pipe. If the heads do not pop up it is because there are too many heads on that irrigation circuit, (valve station). Placing the regulator after the irrigation allows the un regulated excessive pressure to enter the irrigation system. This high pressure causes excessive velocity in the irrigation that causes water hammer and erosion in the pipes. Look at the GPM discharge of each sprinkler head. Add up the gpm on every valve station, the irrigation valves have a max. volume of water flow in gpm . exceeding this gpm by having higher pressure is in excess of 4 feet per second, that is max speed that water is to flow in PVC. Some argue 5 feet per second is ok. However when pushing water in a line to flow 14 gpm in 3/4" pipe or 18 gpm in 1" pipe will allow more than double that. This is water hammer causing and valve damaging.
As for the location of the expansion tank, the code says that the manufacture has rule. But, common on the cold inlet, however as long as a check valve is not in the way the tank will function the same anywhere in the system after the pressure regulator.
What is the reason for your regulating the water, code compliance? reduction of water waste? flood avoidance? I agree you need one, but I want to know exactly your reason so I can lead you to solve that. When my neighbor runs his lawn sprinkler system I am treated to a
session of really loud water hammer noises and high pressure spikes.
They are so loud that it wakes me up from sleeping.
Also, I can hear his water running in my pipes. In fact, I installed a
pressure gauge between my meter and my PRV valve, which the gauge and
the PRV are inside my home right where the water line enters through the
basement wall. The gauge rapidly oscillates about 2-5psi while his
sprinklers are already on and it sounds like I have a faucet on in my
home (which I do not). When his valves turn off and on, I get the loud
water hammer banging and the keeper needle on my pressure gauge
registers spikes up to 180psi.
I am in a residential house on a city water supply. The normal city
pressure hovers around 80psi. My meter is about 30 feet from my house
near the street. My neighbor's meter is about 4 feet away from my meter
on his property. My line is 3/4" copper.
His meter is about 30 feet from his sprinkler valves.
Here are some easy things I have tried so far:
- Checked to see if his line is somehow tied into mine after the meter
by checking my meter to see if its spinning while his sprinklers are on.
It is not.
- Called the water company to see if they can offer any solutions to the
issue. At first they were receptive to help, so they changed both our
meters and when that did not work, they informed me they will not do
anything else. They actually think Im making this up. This is what they
told me after they changed our meters, "If we had pressures at the level
you are claiming we would be having problems in the zone."
- Put a water hammer arrester in my home where the water line enters my
home. This has not helped and only slightly dampened the noise and
reduced the spikes by only about 10psi.
- Shut off the supply line valve between the city main and my meter
while his sprinklers are running and this solved the problem but of
course is not practical since I cant run out to the street to turn the
water off and on every time I want to take shower or run the dishwasher.
- Had a plumber come out, reproduce the problem and then tell me the
water company needs to fix this since its coming from the street side of my
meter. The water company still refuses to help after I told them this.
- Talked to my neighbor about this, he doesn't hear any noises and he
feels he doesn't have a problem, so doing any work on his lines is not
an option.
I would like to try any more easy things before I move on to harder
things like digging up the line near the meter and installing something
to eliminate or reduce the noises and spikes. I have thought about another PRV
in line right after the meter, along with another water hammer arrester or some
combination of both.
What is your opinion on this solution?
What else can I do? Thanks for your help!
Dan
Greg says: Wow, you have done your homework, my guess is the wtr. Dist. has one service line servicing both of you. This is not normal. Your situation is the reason, the possibility that both meters have separate service lines from a the larger street transmission line and still have any transmission like you describe is nil. So, is there a document where the Water Dist. charged either parcel for the said service ?, if so it normally will be just that, a service line to YOUR meter, not to others meters.... this may be your fix. Using a data log water pressure gauge is very convincing for this situation. You can rent a NIST certified dial/clock gauge that is used for just this reason.
I am having problem opening the lid for the cistern to check the flush leak problem. It is an oval plastic push button-on the top of IFO cistern. I can send photos if needed to answer. Please help!
garima
Greg says: Yes please send pictures, I am not sure of your terminology. IFO cistern? are you meaning toilet tank lid? Greg,
Just in case my email reply doesn't make it back to you, here are my answers following your questions:
- are you on a well? No, municipal water.
- where do you live? Florida, in a townhouse development.
- is
your piping galvanized? Looks like CVPC, but I don't know what's in the walls.
- is your water heater electric? No, gas.
- what does your
water district say? Have not contacted them; thought I would try you first.
- do you have an old water treatment system still in
line that is not being serviced? Municpal water system, so I would not know.
- do you have a cavating booster pump? No.
- how long is your water main? Have no idea.
Hoping this gives you the info you need. If not, please ask for more.
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Bill
Greg says: Thank you for the reply, I suspect the water district has answers, the whole complex likely has same issues with the odor. Ask around at home owners assoc, (HOA). Next question is does anyone else have same smell? if no one else does, your water heater needs a new or different anode rod. Try the opposite of the one that is in the tank now. Magnesium or aluminum are the common options. What is causing the rotten egg/sulphur smell we are getting from both hot and cold faucets throughout the house?
I know that a bad water heater can cause this problem, but our WH is only 5 years old.
If we let the water run for about a minute, the smell goes away -- but we hate wasting water. Still, this smell is really repulsive when brushing teeth.
Thanks for your help!
Bill
Greg says: Bill,
You give me little to go on, are you on a well? where do you live? is your piping galvanized, is your water heater electric, what does your water district say, do you have an old water treatment system still in line that is not being serviced, do you have a cavating booster pump, how long is your water main, some of these things can cause a foul odor in pipes. Sulfur is the source of odor, but what is causing it to out gas is it question.
A solution is installing a whole house water treatment system, this is becoming a solution to many water quality problems. The industry is growing fast. Water is becoming an issue more places from different causes. We have a stuck Delta single valve and we show your great advice. It had a video that we're very interested in viewing. We've looked everywhere and we cannot find it. Do you have it posted on Youtube and we're not looking in the right place. The title is How to repair a Delta shower/tub valve. Can you help us?
Mike
Greg says: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk watch video, Read the remarks after the video, all q's have been answered. The kitchen sink in my condo doesn't give me hot water. A singlr handle faucet, I get cold water from both sides. All other faucets in the house have hot water. Thanks for taking the time to look at this
Dave
Greg says: Water pressure will be un equal in hot or cold side and that will cause it. What make kitchen faucet? how old? what make and age of shower valves in the house. We're installing faucets with ceramic washers and our water quality is unfiltered. We need to install a filter so that we don't damage the ceramic washer. What micron do we need to filter the water to? We've been quoted on one system which was 20 microns (and was very expensive) and another that was 110 microns. Is the cheaper 110 micron filter adequate?
Mary
Greg says: Mary,
Ceramic valves are the most tolerant valves in the world. The question is are they made in China? are they a quality faucet. The issue of grit in the water is a well water system issue for the whole house, not a ceramic valve. Yes 110 micron filtered water will be fine for any faucet, ceramic or other. What brand, what is your water source? HI there, I am wondering if anyone can solve this mystery for me. I had a plumber in yesterday to install a kitchen faucet. After he left we ran the dishwasher (next to the kitchen sink) and went out. Our dishwasher emptied water everywhere ...on the floor and through to our basement. We cleaned it up and tried the dishwasher again and it worked??? Is there someway the plumber loosened a hose? didn't remove a plug that then got dislodged eventually....What possibly could have happened as it seems too coincidental...
Thanks
Jane
Jane
Greg says: Jane,
Dishwashers drain into an air gap mounted next to the faucet,(normally, by code). If the 7/8" hose from the gap fixture is kinked or has blockage in it, the DW will discharge its water out of that gap device. I have a video on clearing a dishwasher air gap in my list of videos. Watch it. Do bathroom valves need to be left open all the way - as far as they can go, or is it okay to leave them open just enough to get a sufficient water flow to the sink and shower? (Or does it even matter?)
Alex
Greg says: Shower flows are regulated at the shower head. Many Shower valves made since the 90's are pressure balance type and restricting the flow could cause flow/pressure balance issues. I would never restrict shower valve water. As for sink faucets the flow is also restricted at the aerator and buying the flow limit that you need or want is a couple bucks, and job done. By restricting flow, one does not restrict the static pressures, just the flow pressure. I see angle stops making noise whistling and chattering when partially closed.
Having said that, what reason do you ask? I have restricted flow at an angle stop before, so I ask. When using the side spray hose in the Kitchen on full the water is still running through the kitchen faucet. The spray hose power is diminished.Also when taking a shower water still runs out of the bathtub faucet. The toilet tank sounds like it is running faintly all the time as well. Wondering what is wrong, thinking they must be connected. All 3 started about the same time.
Diane
Greg says: The diverter in the kitchen faucet has nothing to do with the diverter in your tub spout. Cheap imported kitchen faucets do not last more than a couple yrs. Hard water and corrosive water from chlorimines and minerals take a toll on zinc diecast tub spouts. Replace both with better materials not common brand names, since the common names have sold out to China. We installed a Glacier Bay shower that worked fine for several months. Then one day the cold water pressure just stopped. So I replaced the shower cartridge which fixed the problem. For about 3 days. Then the pressure stopped again. Thinking I got a bad cartridge, I replaced it again. Which fixed the problem again. For about 3 days. Then the pressure stopped again like before. Now I find that all I have to do is shut off the water remove the cartridge, put it back in, and turn the water back on and it fixes the issue. For about 3 days.
What could be causing this? I'm assuming it's not the cartridge because this is the third cartridge and they all have the same symptoms.
Thanks!
Shawn
Greg says: First off, the brand you bought is an imported product that sells for ten cents on the dollar compared to what I buy wholesale. Thermally stable materials are expensive to produce, the valve body has hot water in one side and cold in the other just 3/8" away, this causes expansion and contraction that causes the balancing spool to seize. True bronze valve bodies excluding the trim handles and such are $500. The trim is another $500, unless it's an exotic finish like oil rubbed bronze, then double that. Grohe is a brand I install with out issues, Wolverine Brass is as good and half the price, but very limited visual options and trim finishes.
One possibility is that you did not flush the system before putting in the cartridge. Remove it and turn the water on for 30 seconds, then re assemble. Another issue is water pressures over 80 psi are problematic. what is the static pressure? What is the dynamic pressure, if the pressure fluctuates from side to side, the valve will shut off. I recently replaced the hot and cold valves for a circa 1965 bidet in my master bedroom because one of them was leaking. I got the new valves in and tightened down, but when I turned the main water supply back on, I gound I could not operate the hot water handle, it was too difficult to turn. When I operated the cold water handle water started dripping from the vacuum breaker on the wall. I got that tightened up so it wasnt leaking then I noticed that the cold water valve was hot to the touch. The sink next to the bidet also had hot water in the cold water line. As I gradually found out, the cold water lines for the whole house seem to be affected. I know it has something to do with the vacuum breaker, but I don't know what to do to fix it, besides ripping everything out of the wall. Any thoughts?
Marianne
Greg says: Call a plumber, but not just any plumber, one who is licensed and trained, not just a company that sends out a person they hired to do plumbing service calls. That is to say you have a cross connection in the hot and cold pipes and that can be difficult to isolate. First off a 50 yr. old fixture might need replacing, next, any valve having hot and cold water connected to it might need check valves in-line. I do not recommend just anyone installing check valves as these devices can be problematic if installed wrong. I have a question regarding my well pump:
For the first 1-2 seconds when the pump comes on, get practically no water, then a shot of cold water, then resumes normal temperature.
Not tragic but annoying on cold winter mornings.
Watching the gauge, when the pump turns on, the gauge drops from 35 to ~10, then after a second starts to build from 35 to 50.
What I've checked so far:
Surge tank 40 psi - no water in the bladder.
Checked and cleaned contact on pressure switch set at 35-50 was at 40 to 60.
Which leads me to the pump itself.....any other ideas
Mike L
Greg says: While I am not a well pump service tech, I suspect air in your suction. The depth of the waterline below the pump or what type of pump and if there is a foot valve and other issues are not clear to me. The temp issue is likely exposure to weather not pump issues.
My water meter was disconnected by someone trying to steal it but when trying to put it back I cannot get the meter to connect to the water main line. The threading isn't catching and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. It looks like there's something silver inside but not sure its function. Help?!
amanda
Greg says: Your water meter is normally the responsibility of the water district who owns it. Send a picture of your connection your having trouble with. I have a question. Can anyone tell me why the drain traps empty, leaving the sewer gasses to come into the house. It usually happens in very hot weather, when the air-conditioner comes on. We have a septic system.
It happens occasionally. Not every time.
Cynthia Dick
Greg says: Serious condition caused by the HVAC air handler. Call an HVAC man asap, put stoppers in your sink drains. We have always requested replacement cartridges through Moen, so the leaks shouldn't be due to cheaply made parts. Do I adjust water pressure by not fully opening the shutoff valves located behind the tub? If I do, the panel that covers the shutoff valves would not lay flush to the wall. Thank you for your advice.
elsie
Greg says: Water pressure is regulated by water pressure regulators. Partially closing a valve only decreases the flow when the fixture is flowing water. Reducing flow, is not reducing pressure. Testing water pressure is done using a pressure gauge, normally screwed onto a hose bib anywhere on the building hot or cold pipe. Water pressure should meet the code requirement 80 psi or less.
Other factors create water pressure, thermal expansion caused from the water heater as it heats the water, the water assumes a greater space to exist. This is why it is called thermal expansion. For example a 50 gal. water can heat incoming water 50 degrees to 120 degrees, causing a 70 degree rise. Water then expands creating pressure until that pressure is relived by a faucet opening and letting out some water.
Often this happens automatically in toilet fill valves. People say "the toilet flushed it's self" actually the toilet just purged water pressure into the toilet tank and the sound is the same as when the tank re fills after being flushed. Our Moen single handle shower burns through cartridges. When we initially installed the unit about 15 yrs ago, the cartridge seemed to last for quite a while, these last 7 years or so, we have had to change the cartridge frequently (about once every 18-24 months). The faucet starts to drip and gets increasingly worse so that if left unrepaired eventually becomes a steady stream. What is causing this problem and what is the best solution?
Elsie
Greg says: You likely have high water pressure, or you are using imported (made in China) cartridges. My shower faucet was leaking and we replaced the Moen Cartridge with a new one. It's still leaking. Not as much. It stops for about 30 seconds and then drips for 15 seconds and then repeats. Anybody know what this could be and why it's doing that?
Michelle
Greg says: Did you use a US made by Moen, for Moen, or an import for Moen by a Mfgr. from China? Next question, what is your water pressure? My Hubby & I rplaced the pressure balance valve on our Grohe shower fixture with a new one, since it would no longer provide hot water. After putting everything back together exactly how it came apart, we had hot water, yay, but now the darn control lever won't stay in the position that we select. The weight of the lever slowly flops clockwise or counter clickwise from the 12 oclock position. What are we doing wrong? It didn't do this before. Is it possible we got a defective new pressure balance valve? Or is the problem in the lever adapter?
Thank you for your time in our frustration.
Sincerely,
Betty Schuch
Betty Schuch
Greg says: Some handles can be reversed to where the lever is on bottom and this is reduced. The balance part likely has no effect on the rotation of handle, the factory might t shoot this for you. There are many different valve designs, some have a spring that pushes a friction disc to stop this from happening. I just bought a sink drain replacement kit, and since they didn't have it in rubbed bronze finish, bought the trim kit separate. It turns out that the flange is meant to screw onto threads on the outside of the body of the pop-up assembly, but the body only has threads on the inside. Suggestions? Do I have to buy a whole new faucet or if not, how can I make the seal airtight?
Rod
Greg says: I avoid exotic finishes, I avoid retro fit or universal trim parts. If I need a oil rubbed bronze trim pop up, I buy a whole solid bronze pop up along with the faucet. Grohe . com has oil rubbed bronze pop ups that work with most any lavatory faucet. Kohler .com also sells pop ups in many finishes, but I only stock chrome finish in all valves and pop ups and finishes. Exotic finishes cost extra. Replaced my moen single handle shower cartridge and ended up with rubber gasket plugging new cartridge and not letting it turn off. Got all of the gasket cleaned out and had it working just fine. Was checking if hot and cold was right or not and now it started pulling cartridge back in and lessening pressure. Any help would be great thanks.
Reid
Greg says: Reid,
The old rubber seals can come off in the valve body, this can then get into passages blocking flow. Volumes of high pressure air into the shower arm have been used to blow out rubber and other debris. The tub spout removed can be a point to blast air into as well. This is done with the cartridge removed.
Always check the cartridge when removing it to see that all in removed so rubber can not get forced into passages. I installed a new Delta shower one handle. Up and down movement shuts it off. Now, I can turn the adjustment to give hot or cold water, but it will not blend the two levels for a usable temperature. You kit number is rp54870. When an intermediate setting for the temperature is selected, the shower head reduces it's pressure. My question is how to properly put the handle to allow the blending of the hot and cold water. Please reply
Sun Pokorney
Greg says: Did you install the correct ball in the valve? there are two types of delta balls. I installed a new Delta shower one handle. Up and down movement shuts it off. Now, I can turn the adjustment to give hot or cold water, but it will not blend the two levels for a usable temperature. You kit number is rp54870. When an intermediate setting for the temperature is selected, the shower head reduces it's pressure. My question is how to properly put the handle to allow the blending of the hot and cold water. Please reply
Sun Pokorney
Greg says: I can not tell what is the trouble by your description. I do not know the part numbers for Delta. If it is a pressure balance valve, the cartridge is likely reversed or the handle on reversed. I can be handy around the house but usually I learn from mistakes. Not the guy who uses the internet to solve household problems. This time I started looking on you tube. Found your video on replacing a Delta faucet. I was finished in 15 minutes and my wife thinks I'm the man! Thanks!
David
Greg says: David,
Great, there is a tip jar on main page of DIYplumbingadvice.com. We incur costs for providing excellence for "free". Your thanks however, is much appreciated and we are glad to help. I have a Delta single head faucet in the shower. It was dripping one drop about every 30 seconds so I had the cartridge seals replaced. It was fine for about 5 days then it's dripping again. This time it just runs slightly about every 4-5 minutes, dripping about 1/3 cup of water.
Leslie
Greg says: What is your water pressure? that will cause a drip in any valve. Did you use OEM parts, did you tighten the dome nut and ring inside it. You might have high water pressure. I have the kind of pop up plug that has no rod assembly under the sink. It works by pushing down once to seal it, then a second push is supposed to make it pop open again. Mine has become deeply stuck in the drain, it is below the lip of the flange. The sink has water in it.. I've tried using the toilet plunger to create suction and pull it up but it does not budge. How do I get this plug out of the sink?
Denise B
Greg says: Replace the whole pop up assembly. This is likely a plastic body pop up made in China and was not built to repair. The unit screws on to the basin from the bottom on the basin. To find a pop up that does not need the lift rod will require online search. I do not know of a retail store that sells just the pop up.
If all you want to do is pull the plug, use a drill to drill a hole in the thing and use a hook to pull it out.
The video on this page will show how to disassemble that drain plug: http://www.diyplumbingadvice.com/drains/bathdrain.html I was cleaning around my bathroom fixture and the neck of the faucet just popped off and water started gushing. Quickly turned off the water under the sink, but can't for the life of me figure out how to pop the next back on the base..... Help!!!
Nancy
Greg says: Replace the fixture/faucet with a domestic or well made product that will not be prone to falling apart. If you are talking about a 4" ctr. faucet, Grohe makes one that is less than $200. that is a great faucet on all aspects. Sink blocked wen goes down comes up in washing machine wen spin washer comes nearly fills up sink whole kitchen stinks
Thelma
Greg says: Thelma,
You have a drain blockage in the pipe that drains both the sink and washer. A snake in the cleanout on either of them. A professional snake machine is $1700. so either rent one or call a plumber. I was cleaning around my bathroom fixture and the neck of the faucet just popped off and water started gushing. Quickly turned off the water under the sink, but can't for the life of me figure out how to pop the next back on the base..... Help!!!
Nancy
Greg says: You give me little info. as to if the faucet is single or double handle and what your water pressure is. Likely you need to replace the faucet and with one not made in China. Real faucets do not fall apart. Send me a picture or a couple hundred description on all that I NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE.
If all you want is easy & short, call a plumber. We were given a goose neck kitchen faucet with a pull down spray nozzle. I would like to use it in a bathroom because it fits well over a raised bowl sink. I don't want the spray nozzle. Would the faucet still work properly if I cut out the pull down spray nozzle and just let the water flow naturally from the goose neck?
Thanks!!
Lisa
Greg says: No it would flood the inside of the gooseneck. Hi, I have a hot and cold water faucet but I only have a cold water input. Can I just go ahead and install it and ignore the hot water pipe?
Ethan
Greg says: Yes, but cap off the hot side of the faucet. When you say, "Faucet" you mean something other than a shower faucet, correct? I just moved in to a house I'm hooking up the washer and both the hot and cold connector in the wall seem loose. Should I replace them or call a plumber. When I connected the hoses and turned the water on they both leaked
Stephanie
Greg says: Stephanie, I just replaced the flooring in my house today and changed the washing machine valves in the wall. Most of the time someone moves into a house the valves are over ten yrs. old,change them. You say, "loose" that does not tell me if the pipe is loose or what...You do not tell me if they are compressed on to copper, or screwed onto brass nipples, or what. Are they in a recessed plastic box in the wall or sticking out of the wall. You need not be short in description unless you are lazy and un willing to communicate the details that I need to help you, I can not see your wall and pipes nor read your mind. Send a picture? Hello,
Our plumber replaced the cold water faucet cartridge on our Moen 3 handle tub and shower faucet. Now, the cold water faucet handle only rotates a quarter turn instead of a half turn like the hot water faucet (with original Moen cartridge) does. Also, I did a rough timed measurement, the cold water faucet produces slightly less water than the hot water faucet. Why would this be and how can it be fixed so both faucets handles rotate the same distance and produce roughly the same amount of water?
Thanks!
Yvonne
Greg says: There are stops built into the stems of the faucet, these stops are out of position. Repairing Moen 1222 stems can be difficult. Not all plumbers are trained professionally or trained on all products. I have a 3/4" copper pipe with no thread for my bathtub; I need a slip on tub spout. Do they exist?
Adam
Greg says: I do not know of any, no. A possible solution would be a 3/4" male adapter on the end of the copper. You can use a shark bite fitting that is re moveable and cut the copper to fit. My newly installed single handle moen shower is only giving hot or cold water and doesn't produce warm water at all. What do you think is causing it and how do I fix it?
Sophia
Greg says: You say newly installed Moen shower valve, do you mean new valve or new cartridge? what valve? what cartridge? You give me little info. Why open sink tap before adjusting water pressure regulator?
Greg says: Known accepted and published standard is to adjust water pressure regulators with water flowing. If reducing pressure while no flow is present the valve can be damaged. Adjusting up is best because the factory say to.
I recently bought a house and it came with e Laing Thermotech E1 series recirc pump. After looking at your diagrams, I think it might have been installed incorrectly. It is connected to a dedicated return line and tees into the top cold water supply. It is also mounted upside down. During the day the pump makes a loud hammering noise even when the faucets are turned off. Should turning it right side up help with the noise? And/or switching it to the bottom water heater drain valve?
Johnny G.
Greg says: Most pumps need to be mounted as per mfgr. specs. Most circulator pumps want a horizontal motor shaft. all pumps have an installation manual written. Google the model and see the correct position. As for connection to the tank, the pump return to the tank wants to include a check valve and an isolation valve as well. The pipe needs a min. of 1/2" pipe insulation and an aquastat, (thermostat), Timers are an option. Air can be created in cavitation of flow if velocities are too fast and or fittings are too close to the pump. Best to have a min. 6" of pipe both in & out of pump in straight line so to not cause cavatition, (making air thus noise). Some single handle faucets can allow a cross connection of hot and cold water to cross over into the other side.
The best system in found at Got hot water .com. I would need more info. to be more specific on your fix. i replaced an existing Moen shower handle. Off and on by clockwise and counterclockwise. The water turns on but as I get to the hot water the water drips out of the head as if the pressure is severely reduced. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Dean
Greg says: The handle is not what controls the water, the handle turns the cartridge, and the cartridge controls the water. If the cartridge was changed and the flow is restricted, the vlve body might contain a balancing spool that is stuck. Is there a quarter sized slotted plug on the face of the body behind the round trim plate? Our house was built many years ago and whoever installed the plumbing reversed hot & cold on the bathtub. We recently needed to replace the faucet. My question is, since faucets are factory set to hot-left & cold-right and ours is reversed, will this cause any issues with the internal workings of the faucet?
LF
Greg says: NO, unless it is thermostatic in design. Pressure balance type will not be bothered. Instead use a Moen Positemp valve and the H& C are reversable!. Just watched your video on the delta shower faucet (http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml). I replaced everything and the cups seem to seal now, as I have no more leaks when the handle is off.
However, I do have a new dribble leak coming from around the ball when the water is on. I dissasembled and reassembled, with the same problem. Any thoughts?
Mickey D
Greg says: The dome nut has a ring to adjust the ball seal. this will stop the dribble you refer to. Hi Greg
I have PVC piping for my waste water, I have copper tubing throughout the house for my water supply.
I had a break in the PVC pipe which we had to repair. We had to cut out a portion of the pipe and where it was located we had to insert a Rubber boot which has 2 metal clamps on it. These boots can be used according to what I have read.
Anyway, since the repair, when I run the hot water only, it takes about 1 minute or 2 and then I hear a knock in the PVC. This knock will continue every minute or so until I turn off the hot water.
I wrapped the copper tubing with the foam wraps thinking that may be causing the knock.
I'm wondering if my water is too hot. When I go into the basement and feel the PVC pipe it is warm, so maybe the hot water is causing it.
Or is there air pocket somewhere in the PVC?
I have my wall and ceiling completely open and darn if I can find what is causing this
Any ideas?
Sandra Brown
Greg says: Sandra,
Were copper pipe straps removed and not replaced when repairing the waste line? what is your water pressure? I have a house that was built in th 80's, I had a leak where the PVC pipe actually pulled apart at a joint. We had to open up the wall and the ceiling to access the pipe. We fixed the pipe and part of the PVC has a rubber boot with clamps on it.
When we run HOT WATER only, after about 3 mins, the PVC makes a loud knock like every minute. If I run the Hot water in the Kitchen it happens, same thing in my dishwasher, shower, or sink. Its just the HOT WATER.
I know the noise is coming from where the rubber boot is. But it is not hitting any copper pipes, we wrapped the pipes next to the PVC.
This only started happening after we repaired the PVC
I don't want to put up the wall or the ceiling until I find out how to stop the KNOCK.
It will knock once, then about a minute later it will knock once, and so on<
Ideas?
Sandra Brown
Greg says: PVC pipe in walls? or do you mean CPVC? if CPVC, is there also copper? what is your water pressure? rubber patches are not good. need to replace with code compliant fitting. Were straps removed to make repair? Washbasin tap, upward movement turn on rotating to move from cold to hot. It has recently all but seized. I tried wd40 and then light oil, no improvement. Would some other medium help such as graphite or silicon ?
john
Greg says: Not likely, the resistance to movement is in the valve behind a seal caused by hard water and likely a cheap faucet made in China. I found I had a slab leak. Today my plumber came and capped off the manifold to outside back faucet,from hall bathroom. Now I have to decide what to do. He wants to use front faucet run PVC under ground to to with a lever to use one other, or both. Me being a perfectionist wants my old faucet back. Also for resale value of my home. What do i do? Any other suggestions?
Lee
Greg says: Repipe over head in attic. Greg,
I have a one-handle Delta fixture in the shower that likes to drip. I have replaced the gaskets and springs and that fixes the problem. But it starts to drip again in about a year. I've replaced them myself and had a licensed plumber do it with the same results. Is this just the way this fixture is, or is there something I can do to reduce the number of repairs?
Steven
Greg says: What is the water pressure? do you replace the ball, or just the cups? Seven years ago I hired a contractor to do extensive renovations in a townhouse I had purchased. I bought new taps for the master bathtub and totally renovated the adjacent main bathroom down to removing the drywall.
Recently I've had problems with the master tub taps not turning off. The only way to stop the water is to turn off the main water supply to the house. No shut-off valve was installed for these taps even though access to them was available then before the drywall was replaced.
Now it is a big job, requiring removal of the toilet in the adjacent main bathroom and cutting a hole in the wall there to provide access to the shut-off valve that will need to be installed.
Whose responsibility should this be, the contractors or mine?
Many thanks for your advice,
Lesley
LesleyZ
Greg says: Lesley,
The code does not clearly require stops be installed in pipes to the tub valves. I use valves in a shower valve that include stops in the body of the valve that can be accessed behind the trim plate of the shower valve. That is an option. I suggest the tub valve be better than leaking in 10 yrs. and not needing to be serviced. The contractor should have done the optimum not the minimum as required by code. Having said that the consumer is responsible to chose better than min. and no state license board I know of will support otherwise. Meaning, your responsible for choosing options, contractors responsible to meet minimum code. Was a permit paid for and an inspection from the building dept.? If so it still would have passed unless the inspector opted to require stops. What make and model tub valve is leaking? what is your water pressure? I now live in Florida in the summer. Taking a very cold shower is important to me, like the ones I took when living in the Chicago area where the water came from Lake Michigan. is there any product available that would decrease the temperature of the tepid water that comes out of the cold tap in Florida in the summer?
Neil Sheehan
Greg says: No, Phoenix Az. has the same trouble. If pipe is run through the attic the cold water can actually burn you to a point of needing to go to the hospital! Attics are 160 deg. in summer in Phoenix! Yuma Az. is another place I have lived and worked. I used to take full cold water showers and have to stand out of spray till the hot attic heated water passed thru. Hi,
Greetings for the day!
I'm finding difficulty in
selection / sizing of the vacuum breaker ( which is to be installed on
Domestic Water supply line serving to Electric Water Heaters (Commercial use) - 3 nos.
inline working simultaneously based on demand
in two conditions:
1. Considering One Vacuum Breaker installation @ Common Header for 3 Heaters - What size and Type required?
2. Considering dedicated Vacuum Breaker for Each Water Heater Supply
line (i.e. if proposed for 3 nos. vacuum breaker - -what size and type
required ? )
Relevant Details are as follows:
1.Domestic water Inlet line to the Heater - 3"
2. Max. Line Flow rate - 5.4 L/S
3. Heater Capacity - 600 Gallons.
Could you please with your expertise help me out in this for Sizing & Selection with proper
breakup / supporting references (i.e. Codes and Selection methodology) & your valuable recommendations on installation of Vacuum Breaker on Cold water supply to Electric water heater
your early response in the regards will be highly appreciated.
Thanks & Regards,
Syed Khaleelulla
Syed Khaleelulla
Greg says: Syed,
I am not familiar with applications of vacuum breakers on water heaters, do not use them so my expertise is not present. Hi Greg,
I'm trying to fix a quarter turn sink faucet and I just can't figure out how the handles are removed. I have a similar brand faucet in the bathtub with one of the handles loose, but I can't even figure how these handles work to tighten it.
I believe it is a Moen, but am not sure.
I've posted some pics to instagram if that would help.
Greg says: See comment in picture note. Not Moen, likely american standard, look for a very small allen screw in the lever part of handle. on the cant see it side of the handle. When changing fittings on a electric hot water tank is it necessary to turn power off to it & drain the tank?
dottie
Greg says: Turn off water and power, no need to drain if all your fittings are on top of tank. When you say fittings, you mean the connectors to and from the house for hot and cold water? Hello Greg!
I have a leak in my downstairs basement bathroom shower (single handle moen). I replaced the cartridge and that seemed to make the leak worse... When I turn the sink tap on that seems to stop the shower leak but then i have a running sink. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
Evan
Greg says: What is your water pressure, sounds like it is too high... Hi Rick,
The copper pipe on my water heater is vibrating. It does stop when I flush the toilet and let the water run. But, it starts vibrating again after a moment. Do you know what it might be?
Thanks for you help.
D.Oliver
Greg says: You have a washer in the angle stop tp your toilet or somewhere. What is your water pressure? I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: Didn't you get my reply? I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: Rene,
Send me the same question on my e mail, greg@ ramonasplumber, I am having a hard time replying to you on my site... I am replacing all of my faucets because I don't like the way they look. I am replacing moen with moen. do I need to replace the valves or just screw on the hardware
John S
Greg says: John,
"Screw on the hardware" what do you mean? the "valves"? do you mean angle stops? You say faucets, you mean tub and shower? wide spread lavatory? kitchen? I need more info. how old? what is your goal? what is your budget? are you in a condo? many things can exist, many different things could be meant.
Send picture?
Greg.
Hello Everyone!
Years ago, my brother remodeled our bathroom and did the plumbing himself. He ran a toilet, shower stall, two sinks, and a bathtub off the same pipes. The bathtub is the only one with a water pressure (volume problem.) It only delivers about 20%-30% water with nothing else running and I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of what exactly the problem is and how to resolve it. This bathtub is a water massaging type with the jets etc. I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but I felt I should mention it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much,
Michael :)
Michael
Greg says: What size pipe, what type pipe, what make model tub valve, and are you meaning the filling with the spout is restricted, or the jets are weak? Is the tub valve a tub & shower, or just a tub and is the shower head same as spout? When you run the tub spout is a bucket, say a 1 gal. bucket, how many seconds does it take to fill the one gal bucket? that is the "GPM" a spout is faster than a shower head. a head is 2.5 GPM.
Where do you adjust the pilot light flame on a Mor-Flo water heater. There is a plug that comes out with a hex key on the bottom of the thermostat housing. Could the adjustment be under this plug? Thanks for the help. I like your website.
Gary Lee
Greg says: I don't recommend un licensed people working on Gas appliances. The Gas company supplies gas at a pressure that is in spec. and the water heater mfgr. sets pilot flame to an optimum. There could be issues beyond just turning up a pilot. What is the reason you feel it is too low? I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: What model and make of valve? all are different, you give me no info. Most likely the person was not a professionally trained plumber. If the cartridge was removed, it could be in 180 deg. out of rotation. but again too little info. Greg answered me :
Greg says: Don't turn the water on all the way?
do you do not understand. it is a single crank. if it not on all the way it is freezing cold. similar to this:
you turn the crank, at first it is cold, as you turn it toward hot it gets hotter. but if you want to reduce the pressure you have to make it colder by turning it toward cold
Greg says: Thanks for the fuller description, it's a modern valve!, on the shower head arm there are restrictors sold for the purpose of almost shutting off the flow while lathering up. Different ones work differently, some will gradually throttle some will just be on or off. As for the spout. Check the water pressure to the house, this can be done with a pressure gauge, I have a couple videos on this. As well there may be built in stops behind the handle trim inside the wall. Remove handle, remove the round trim plate & look for two slotted valves on left and right sides of the brass valve body inside the wall. Partially close them for reduced flow. You must restrict them equally of the valve will not flow any water at all. we recently got all new copper plumbing for our home. while it is great, I wash my son's hair under the bathtub faucet and it comes out so strong now that it scares him. it has a diverter, there is a shower above it.
I am not a plumber and have no plumbing skills.
is there something i can buy and put at the end of that bathtub faucet to reduce the pressure coming out? we have a single crank/handle that says hot or cold.
or is my only option to buy a new set that has one hot handle and one cold handle? We would have to pay to have that installed and for the tiling to be fixed in the bathtub wall, which is tile (we have a simple curtain for getting in and out, tile walls in the bathtub area.)
Michael
Greg says: Don't turn the water on all the way? i just purchased a new air gap and the instructions tell you to install the cap with the vents facing the wall.????? so if it is clogged it will spew water all over the wall and counter..... what IDIOTS.!!!
wayne
Greg says: I aim the vent holes to the sink basin, they can be seen, but you are correct, any other direction will flood the counter top and floor as result. New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Plugged hose screen. the check valve could be plugged, always flush lined before installing new faucets. I just replaced my gas water heater (Rheem, 50 gal. direct vent). Once I had connected the water lines and turned the water coming into the house (but before I turned the gas on), I opened all the faucets. Everything worked fine, except for the first floor powder room. Neither the hot nor cold faucets worked, though the toilet did. What's going on?
KG
Greg says: Aerator plugged. I had a water meter installed in my home recently, the contracter had to turn off the water, when he finish installing the meter he turn the water back on the water runs throughtout the house except in the small half a bathroom there is no water pressure filling the water tank what could I do to get water pressure into toilet tank
John Do Good
Greg says: Debris in the aerator or pipe. blow it out. remove and clean, New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Diverter valve plugged, must remove and clean. When installing fixtures flush lines first!
For about 2 years now, the hot water flow from my shower and kitchen faucet flows normally for about a minute, then the flow slows to about 1/2 of it's normal pressure. This does not happen from any of the other hot water outlets in the house. This house is a ranch and about 30 years old. Any ideas for me?
Thank you
Paul Anderson
Greg says: My methods would be isolate the branch of piping that feeds both the fixtures that get flow reduced. I assume the way to clear the obstruction is to disconnect the hot water outlet at the water heater and disconnect the shower and kitchen piping, and do flow reversal water and air hot and cold. Short of that just testing the supply tube flow w/o the faucet at the kitchen end to rule out the faucet its self. when you say shower, is it tub and shower or just shower? remove the shower head to check flow. I just watched your YouTube video about the how to replace the Delta shower values in the old 600 series. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk
Where do I find these replacement parts? I do not see the parts on Lowe's website nor Amazon. Where do I look?
Refreshing video! Can't wait to fix our leaky shower faucet!
Much appreciation!
DIYMom
Greg says: Parts for Delta valves are common in Ca. & Az. at all Lowes,Home Depot, Ace, Truevalue stores. "Delts Balls" New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Did that work? New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Hose connection has a screen that is plugged up? Hi Greg,
I just tore out my old slop sink and installed a new one. The drain is installed with no leaks. I replaced the old hot and cold water valves, then tested them with the new hot and cold water lines in a bucket and they worked fine. The facet looks to be correctly installed on the sink, and the faucet is a long handled faucet that I believe I attached correctly.
My problem is I turn on the hot and cold valves and then turn on the hot and cold faucet and no water comes out. I cannot figure out what I did wrong.....Help please!
Thanks so much, Frank
Frank Giannini
Greg says: Aerator plugged? The water inlet hose blew off the connection under my Whirlpool dishwasher. The machine is only 3 years old and the manual says to replace the hose every 5 years. What caused the hose to blow off during operation and cause major flooding in the kitchen? BTW...the hose connection at the water inlet (under the sink) and under the dishwater appears to be "pushed" on without the benefit of being secured by a nut. There is a lining inside the brass tube, but it appears that the pressure just pushed it back off.
Mike
Greg says: What is the water pressure in the house? Do you have a thermal expansion tank? do you have a pressure regulator? send me a pix of the "push fit fitting you refer to. New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Hose connection has a screen that is plugged. Hi,
I replaced the mixers and diverter in my shower and everything works, until I divert the water to the shower. The water pressure is correct for a couple minutes then it dies out about 50%. Is there a quick fix for this? Perhaps I tightened something too much?
Thanks so much!
Nate
Greg says: Nate,
You need to tell me the make and model, valves like Price Phister can have valve body movement when the body of the valve and the stem expand. I have seen stems close all the way. I do not fault the brand, it is the after market made in China stems or the incorrect assembly of them that is likely the cause. Did you use the beveled dome like washers in the stems?
Greg,
I was fixing some water leaks in a house, and when I finished installing two ball valves on the water lines just before the shower valve, I turned the water on and the water shot out for half a second, then nothing. I suspect debris in the line but I have never opened a Pioneer brand single handle shower valve. It doesn't pull out to start flow. It just turns to start it, then adjusts temperature. Would you help me understand how this valve comes out, so I can inspect it?
Respectfully,
Jeff in Utah
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff, the balancing spool in the valve body is jammed. Pull the cartridge and clean it out. Solder debris or calcium has gotten in and stopped the spool from moving. Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: First off, yes it is the contractors responsibility to install products correctly, and to test prior to tile. Next the contractors license board needs to be contacted and you need to not pay the contractor till a judgment is made by the State contractors lic. board. They will make a recommendation/ order to the contractor and if he will not do it they can pay a contractor to do it and take the cost out of the bond that the contractor has. In California anyway…
Older price pfister two handle shower faucet seems like it is mixing the hot and cold together, I saw no t diverter. could some one give me an idea why
James B Williams
Greg says: James,
Your question is not clear, when the cold handle is used by its self it delivers only cold water right? Same with the hot. When the two are used together they are supposed to mix. I bought a hammered copper farm sink for my kitchen remodel. Now my husband is convinced that it will not be strong enough to handle having a garbage disposal. Could you please comment?
Kay C Pincuspy
Greg says: Too often trend and looks are chosen over function. However, support can be added to the copper basin to make a good match for a disposal. First what is the gauge of the copper? what is the basin configuration, single or double basin? Using an epoxy one adhere steel or other structure to strengthen the sink from the bottom side. Tar mastic is used to reduce vibration, but it can also adhere plates to the sink. Mounting systems are another issue, dropping basin in thru plywood sub surface then topping with the countertop surfacing is best mounting method. Clips from below are weak. I closed my faucet shut offs at the kitchen sink to remove clean and tighten the single faucet handle. after re opening I only have about half pressure of hot water at the sink. The cold is fine. I closed and re opened a few times with same result. Is it possible the valve is broken or stuck inside in a partially open position? Thanks
AL
Greg says: The angle stops below the counter top are most often washer type, the washer has a 10 yr. life, then can crumble causing debris in the flow path. my niece had to do her water line, cause it busted, and now it just dribble's in the bathroom and kitchen, the cold water but in the wash room she has good presure with the hot and cold water, what can she do
sheila
Greg says: What do you mean by the term "do" her water main? replace, repair, if so what material is the pipe?
If "do" means repair, and the repair was in copper or plastic pipe, then likely debris got into the pipe and flowed to the screens on the faucet outlets and needs clearing. i bought a dance roman tub faucet and the rough in parts as well.
Step 1 on the rough in is to remove the air test plug, and for the life of me, I can't get it removed. It doesn't say how to get it off there. The ring below it looks a bit bent as well.
I've tried prying it off, and screwing it off. Nope to either.
Any ideas?
CJ
CJ
Greg says: Most test plugs are knock out, that means with a hammer!~ I closed my faucet shut offs at the kitchen sink to remove clean and tighten the single faucet handle. after re opening I only have about half pressure of hot water at the sink. The cold is fine. I closed and re opened a few times with same result. Is it possible the valve is broken or stuck inside in a partially open position? Thanks
AL
Greg says: Likely the washer broke into pieces and one of them is blocking the flow on that side. Disconnect and blow out in reverse. i replaced a bathroom sink faucet. Now my sink will. It drain. What did I do wrong?
Kko
Greg says: I don't understand your question? Faucets have nothing to do with drains. I installed a new ejector pump and when I put in the male adapter (2") I did not use a soft sealant around the threads. I just turned the male adapter into the metal threads of the pump a tad beyond finger tight (maybe another 1/4 turn).
I am reading now that some people recommend the use of a sealant on the threads and am wondering if there will be any future issues arising from the fact that I didn't use sealant. I am not overly concerned with leaks around the threaded joint, because the outgoing PVC pipe from the ejector pump has a 3/16" weep hole (i.e., it is supposed to "leak" by design). My bigger concern is whether or not the metal threads of the ejector pump itself will rust and fail because I didn't use the sealant. Just as a point of reference, the pump I installed was a Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate Sewage Pump.
Michael G
Greg says: I see no issue, this does not mean I am assuming the liability for your not putting thread sealant, but the pump will most likely wear out before issues arise. How much elevation is the pump lifting? If the elevation is over 12 ft. the result will be low velocity and GPM. This causes solids to fall out of flow and build up on pipe wall. 20 gpm is min. discharge of a sewage ejector as per code. This volume in a 2" pipe is the ratio needed for velocity min. Our Bathtub faucet has no water.. not hot nor cold.. we removed handles new cartridges.. the pipes to the handles shoot water out when handles are removed but the faucet pipe just trickles . we removed the faucet. so its just the pipe . they are not frozen or root problems. any ideas
collette
Greg says: Send me a picture of the valve or tell me the make and approx. year of mfgr. Is it a 2 or 3 handle valve? when you drain washing machine the kitchen sink and toilet make noise
tim johnson
Greg says: You have a main drain or vent problem, action is needed to avoid water damage. what part number is the posi temp puller you used, i tried with moen standard puller and it would not pull. thanks wade 913-207-0480
Wade Torrey
Greg says: Wade,
The posi temp puller is the larger one .It says for Moen Posi Temp Tub/shower on the lable. Most hardware stores carry it. Many off brands make one that fit as well. Moen makes a couple different ones too. I have a moen legend moentrol single knob handle shower faucet only. This morning when I went to turn on the water, the knob moved but no water comes out. I know the shower head is ok. Any ideas or help on what is wrong and how easy it is to repair on your own?
chrissy
Greg says: The balance spool is jammed the water can be turned off, spool removed cleaned or replaced and flow will resume. I usually replace the cartridge too. The OEM made by Moen magnum cartridge is the one to use, not the "For Moen" by Lasco, or Truevalue or Pasco or other.
My radiators are not working properly. The last few radiators are not getting flow through. I've turned all of and turned them back on with the furthest radiator being first letting that get warm and then working back. They worked fine until this week.
could anybody advise on what the problem may be.
thanks Craig.
Craig
Greg says: Craig,
Heating systems like yours require skilled and certified experts to t shoot and repair. Boilers are very complex as are piping loops. Some are steam, others are hydronic, some even have glycol in them. Air can cause hell and danger in these systems. Get a local specialist with formal education not just a handyman. Replaced the hot water heater. The pop off valve leaks, not all the time just every now and then. replaced valve with 2 other valves and it still acted the same way. carried the heater back to lowes and swapped for new heater and the new one acted the same way. checked the water pressure outside and it first read 76-78 lbs. checked later and it read 60 lbs. any suggestions. it is a 2 story house and water heater is on 1st floor. If regulator is bad could it cause the pop off valve to release the pressure? Thanks
leon
Greg says: First off, you have a potential dangerous situation and best call a professional.
As for water pressure, I assure you that pressure relief are not supposed to "Pop off". This is an indication you do have high pressure. Your "76-78" PSI statement is likely inaccurate. Water pressure is a moving target, regulators leak pressure into the system slowly. After the pressure builds up when you are not measuring, there is dander and plumbing damage. Then the issue of thermal expansion, another force with the power to blow the relief valve off. A lazy hand gauge will show all this pressure movement. A lazy hand gauge has 2 needles, one is current pressure reading, the other id where the pressure was at the highest. The Pressure regulators do not last forever, how old is the one there now? Water heaters are not a DIY project, see the Myth Busters video on water heater explosions. Or the video made in the 1930's by Watts mfgr. who invented pressure & Temperature refief valves. Hi Greg
Thank you for your video on dishwasher loading. Can you tell me what direction does the lower spray arm go? clockwise or counter clockwise? I have wide rimmed soup plates that tilt down when loaded and they nest making access to the bowl centre difficult. If I knew the direction of the lower spray arm I could load the bowls to face into the lower spray and more water may get into the bowl center.
My dishwasher is a Whirlpool similar to the one in your loading video.
Regarding the cutlery basket, I like to bring it in to the dishrack as I believe it gets a better water flow there.
Thanks again, your video was very helpful. Sharon.
sharon
Greg says: Look at the holes in the spray arm, this will show you the direction of rotation. Thanks for you indulgence and viewing the first video we made. The newer ones are a bit better sound and camera. My intent was to help people who thought they needed a new dishwasher, but really just needed to load better. The owners manual has the best tips.
Greg Can I cut the dome off that's what I'm having trouble taking off.
saira cantu
Greg says: Yes, but don't cut the valve part that it screws to. Normally a heat gun used to heat ,thus expand the dome allows it to unscrew.. I am replacing my delta shower handle because it is leaking but I can not take off the dome. So I can replace the piece inside (the ball with the tube). Can I cut it off. I have spayed WD 40 for 2 days. I have also been tapping it. But it doesn't want to budge.
Saira Cantu
Greg says: Just cut the handle off with a hacksaw, buy new handle, then use heat on the dome nut to loosen it from the valve body. The dome nut can be replaced too. Hi. I replaced the top of my Coastmaster Mark III fill valve with an OEM top to stop a running toilet and all went well. The tank fills and water shuts of right at the line with no extra running. However, now water leaks out of the top when filling and that's how the tank is filling--the water to the over flow seems to be working fine though. I tried putting the old top and its parts back on and now they leak the same way now also. The top is tightened correctly as you can't put the locking pin in if it isn't. What can I do to get the fill valve to work correctly? Can you double up the O rings? Thanks.
Greg says: If the leak just fills the tank and does not spray on bottom side of lid and escape the toilet tank, then let it happen. If you want a better ball cock, use a fluidmaster 400a. Hi Greg, Our toilets clog super easy with too much toilet paper. We have had them unclogged by professionals several times while we had our home warranty. Now we don't have that anymore and so we are trying a closet auger. We watched your video several times but can't stop the auger from curling up on itself. I keep thinking its finally going in and I'm twisting it, but the coil starts showing up again. How do we stop that? Also is the coil suppose to be going up or more straight back in the toilet? Please help, we don't want to start paying tons for a plumber.
Thanks!
Brianna
Greg says: Brianna,
Did you get a General wire brand or Ridgid brand Auger? or a China spin of cable? The professional grade augers are more expensive for a reason. We pros are not spendy fools. The quality of a cable is needed to not curl up. Another issue is the years of training a plumber gets before being worth his/her over priced fees for "Just " using an auger. It requires a "best cable" and skill and one more thing.
Some toilets just plain need replacing. What make model/year of mfgr. is your toilet? Hi Greg… saw your video on roots in the toilet drain and turns out I have the same problem. In my case though, the roots had completely infiltrated the drain. So much so that I can remove them physically as hard as I try. Have you ever come across a drain completely full of roots? Can you offer any suggestions on how to clear the drain in this case?
Thanks.
Jesse
Greg says: There is a skill involved in pulling the root ball out of a pipe where the roots have grown so much that it is like a cork in a bottle neck. I have used a closet auger to hook on to the root ball. Remove the toilet, send down a professional grade auger having a retrieving tip on it to "screw" into the root ball then pull it out.
Our house is 40 years old on a concrete slab. We have a fairly new Whirlpool HE washer. For years our drain line overflowed in the wall and made a mess. We had to get the roof vent cleaned out at least once a year ( this vent is over the kitchen sink about 8 feet or more from washer). We finally had a plumber dig up the floor in the laundry room and vent the line. ( it is vented in the wall about 4 to 5 feet above the drain line. ) We still have not replaced the sheetrock because the line is still overflowing when the machine drains. Not bad but enough to get the floor a little wet. I am still having to watch it and turn it on and off which is a pain in the butt. Our plumber said to get a cone thing to go down in the drain line which would force the water out, what do you call that, do you think that will help or do you have other suggestions?
thanks
Denise Reed
Greg says: The vent is only used to vent the drain, not make it drain. Adding a vent directly on the laundry drain line was a good thing, but a cleanout installed at the laundry drain would allow someone to snake the laundry drain. Snaking from the vent directly above the laundry drain allows snaking to be done with out a clean out, but it is more work to take a snake on the roof than it is to use one on the ground. The laundry drain needs snaking. Laundry lint mixes with fats oils and grease from the kitchen drain and forms a blockage when the two are tied together.
As for the "cone" you ask about, I assume you mean a "drain king" or a drain Blatter device used to clear soft blockages. If so, that is not the way to clear a build up from laundry/kitchen waste mixed. A snake is the tool to use. Why did you replace the vent instead of snaking the drain line? and why not snake it now? Hi I have a aqualisa shower, and where to twist it on and off its leaking all the time, how do I stop this
daviid hanley
Greg says: Use teflon Tape on treads Hi I have a aqualisa shower, and where to twist it on and off its leaking all the time, how do I stop this
daviid hanley
Greg says: Teflon Tape. Our tub has a spout with a diverter to turn on the shower but it keeps tearing the seal in the diverter. What causes this?
glenn baird
Greg says: Sharp edges in the spout, hard water build up. Change the spout. Delta makes a great diverter spout. It has a pull down action, not a lift up knob. The mechanism is different altogether. Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: Yes the contractor is responsible for the valve, IF he sup[plied it, if not, you are responsible.
Having said that, is the leak in the body of the valve, or in the operation of the valve. Just put new guts in it!. Send me picture of the valve body, tell me the model... Changed the cartridge at my dads house and I'm almost positive I put it in hot side left and cold side right. My dad says a couple people used it and the hot water was luck warm. What could the problem be? Thank you.
Shawn
Greg says: Shawn,
What valve are you talking about? Hi. I have a toilet that runs for about a minute after a flush. The tank has filled, but it continues to run. Lifting the float arm will stop the running, however if released it will start running again for the minute. The over flow tube is sitting correctly over the over flow pipe, not down in it and the flapper is not leaking water out of the tank. What could be the cause and how to fix it? Thanks
E. H.
Greg says: You need a new ballcock. As well your water pressure needs to be below 80 psi, as per code. Greg help me out pls. Changed the location of the water heater now that its all back together all faucets and sinks hot water wrkd great except for the one that goes to the shower head its just a trickle of hot water the cold is fine. Guide me pls
reynaldo
Changed location of the water heater so i had to shut everything off, got it all back together now the hot water does not reach the shower head, every other Faucet wrks well. I blew the system with air from my compressor and nothing. What sure
reynaldo
Greg says: What make/model shower valve? debris likely got into the balancing part of the shower valve. replacing Moen single handle bathroom sink faucet, while pulling old cartridge it got broken in half,the matel part came out all but plastic casing broke in half,the stuck half is still stuck,and some small pieces have blocked the water coming out.........what to do please help ? thanks. Akdru
akdru
Greg says: You are supposed to use a Moen cartridge puller so that does not happen. If that happens, there is a puller tool that is designed to extract the parts. Pasco tool, they are sold in hardware stores.
How old is the faucet? use vinegar to dissolve the hard water that is holding the thing in there. Hi, hoping you can help me...
Recently had a ceramic handle break on a price pfister faucet, similar to the 31 series Savannah, but with cross handles instead, found the 910-830 cartridges at the 5th plumbing store (with old cartridge in hand) and installed them today, put handles back on and no water flows out the spout. Either side hot or cold. Spout has no aerator, took it off and cleaned it. Pulled one valve (intake?) line, hot side, replaced it, can't figure out how to pull the other as it is a narrow copper pipe and did not come loose when the bolt was removed at the top where it meets the sink. Water does flow up the lines, however. Don't know why it is not getting past the cartridges or whatever its supposed to do. Please help, would really like my kitchen sink back. The dishes are piling up.
Cain
Greg says: Cain,
The faucet is a two handle one? pull the spout off so you can clean the body that the spout pivots on. Send a picture to my ph. cell. 760-788-2889 then call me I will look at my messages find the picture and know better.
I usually do not repair kitchen faucets anymore, they are all made in China and have difficulties as you can see. They are so cheap, it is easier to replace them. The more expensive ones $500 plus, do not break usually. I install Grohe Lady Lux Cafe with cast stainless steel bodies...
Did you use the old angle stops under the sink to stop the water when you repaired it? if so, the crumbled parts from with in those things can flow up into the faucet body when turning the water back on. I have a three (3) handle system for my shower, obviously one handle for hot, cold, and the main one in the middle to divert the water from the tub to the shower head. Nothing leaks when shut off. When I turn the cold water on, water shoots out the back of the handle and splashes onto the tile wall behind it. Do I need to replace the entire stem, seat, and handle. Or something completely different?
Jon
Greg says: There are many brands and as such many different stems. The popular brand Price Pfister has a stem with a bonnet nut and all you do is tighten it and your done.
Other brands are different, I need more info. not all stems are the same.
Hi Greg! Problem: Water runs from shower and tub faucet at the same time. So I replaced with same brand P/N single handle tub/shower cartridge and diverter but...my problem still is not solved! (I did not have this problem for many years, what changed?) I scrubbed all areas with nylon toothbrush and completely rinsed out and dried before assembling. Increased water pressure from main household supply and even took off the shower massage hose hook-up to make sure no clogs there. I don't know where to turn next to fix the leak and waste of water. Pleased be so kind as to advise. Thank You!
Greg says: Is the shower valve a three handle valve? Hot, cold and diverter? or is the spout a diverter spout? what make is it? How old of a valve?
You demonstrate the use of a slip fix unit for repair of pvc pipe. Where can I purchase a unit is San Diego County
Thanks
John Rose
Greg says: Most any store selling PVC fittings. Lowes, Home depot, ACE, True Value... Hello,
I had someone come out to fix a leaky faucet in the shower. This is a three knob system. Apparently the hot water was the one leaking. Plumber installed new cartridges ( rebuilt all 3). Rebuild the diverter stem they had removed and reinstalled it, still pouring water.My tenant says after he left the shower has no pressure. Plumber went back and said he tried to reinstall the old stem from the middle knob but it didn't work so he installed a new Tub spout diverter. It worked for a day. Now tenant is having the same problem with no pressure to the shower. Any idea what is going on?
Thank you
Kristen
Greg says: Kristen,
The diverter washer, or one of the other stems washers was loose and it went up into the passage that supplies the shower head. Remove the diverter stem use compressed air in a surge blow out the passageway. Make sure the stem being used for the diverter is the correct stem, there are hundreds of different ones.
Take a picture of the removed stem and one of the shower valve on the wall, send to me. Wanting to know what is 3 bars of water pressure ? What is that in PSI
Lyle Linares
Greg says: A bar is about 15 PSI, so 3 bar is about 45 psi. Hi I put a shower in and just fitted attachment on taps. My hot water tank is near to the floor my cold water tank is above my hot water just trickles out the cold is fast do I need to buy mixer taps and fit the to pipes under bath ? Thanks for looking
Gill
Greg says: Hey Cool Lady, I need more info. the description you give is too vague, Is your water gravity fed? is your water pressure over 45 psi? what are your pipes made of? You say you put in a shower and fitted to taps, do you mean a new shower enclosure and new valve? Do you know the make and model of valve? We a stall shower with moen single handle. When we turn it on only hot comes out. We have taken the handle off and shut off the hot water via the turning the screw and left the cold on. Nothing comes out. We tried knocking on the regulator valve without change. It runs extremely hot only. Any ideas or suggestions.
cherie
Greg says: I need more info, is the valve a posi temp? does it have integral stops Is the cartridge the one that came with the valve body? or a Chinese spin off. Does the cart. have a stuck spool? The shut off valve for our toilet is leaking. It has been replaced within the past five years. It started leaking when our street had a water main break. It is one that is threadless. I know how to put it on. However, it seems to be much more difficult to remove. Can you advise on how to remove a threadless shut off valve in order to replace the entire valve?
Becky
Greg says: I have a video on that on my you tube video list, (over 40 videos). The part is called a furrell nut and ring. The ring is compressed on to pipe. The nut screws on to the stop valve body, so you need to un screw it correctly. Another issue is the nut being stuck on the pipe, that is pulled off using a tool.
Or, if enough copper is out of wall, cut off the valve and install a new one on. Hello Greg,
My husband and I our in the process of renovating our 1972 bathroom. He wants to move the shower head either above the shower or to the opposite wall, demoing the wall it is currently on to open the bathroom up a bit. I feel like this is a real complicated process, and he is not a plumber. Can a novice do this job and what steps should he take?
Thanks!
Shana
Shana Hollis
Greg says: Shana,
If a wall is open and the pipe to the shower head is the only pipe being moved, the task is very easy. Testing the new installation is required before covering the wall. Copper is one pipe material, PEX is another. Pipe protection is needed to avoid nail or screws from damaging the pipe where the pipe material passes thru studs in wall. It sounds like there is constant running water outside when I'm standing at my kitchen sink. There is an outside water faucet outside below the kitchen sink window. The faucet outside has leaked occasionally, & I have tried to tighten it to fix the leak. It has seemed to work. However the sound of running water can still be heard while standing at the kitchen sink. When I turn on my kitchen sink faucet, it makes a horrible racket noise. Maybe as if there is water in the line. If I turn the water on to high it makes more noise, and if I turn it down, the loud banging stops. Now, I turned on the water at the sink and I didn't have any water pressure at all. If I barely turn on the water, I can get a trickle from both the cold and hot water. In addition, there is a Brita water filter on the water faucet. I have changed this thinking it may be the problem but nope. However, I do seem to get a little more water pressure without it on the faucet. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
Greg says: Sounds like you have a leak in the concrete slab below the floor. Watch the videos I have on water pressure, one of then is testing for leaks.
Hi Greg, thanks for posting my plumbing problem. In answer to your question, our utility sink faucet does not have an aerator.
Betty Ann
Greg says: So what is the flow at each fixture? a stop watch can be used, 2.8 gpm is older flow max at kitchen faucet, then 2.5 gpm, and 2.0 is current there are 1.8 gpm aerators for kitchen faucets. Lavatory faucets are generally 2 gpm, showers 2.5 or 2.0, gpm. Laundry /service sinks can be w/o aerator and flow 4 gpm. Avg. water pressure is below 80 psi, 55 psi is best. what is your flow using a 1/2 gal bucket? One day I turned on the water to our utility sink (located in the basement, in the same room with the water heater and inside water reservoir tank), and only a tiny stream came out of both the hot and cold valves. Water pressure was fine up until that day and now nothing but this trickle has come out of either valve since. It does not sound like any water is being restricted, just no flow to speak of. Water in the rest of the house is fine, and the outside spigot on the same water line as the utility sink works fine. My husband and I are completely stymied. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance!
Betty Ann
Greg says: Is there an aerator on the utility sink faucet?
My husband and I just changed the stem valves in our shower/tub and put on new faucets, (the valves and the handles are Harcraft), when we turned on the hot water the pressure was excellent then we heard a slight pop sound and then the pressure became very low, turned on the cold faucet and the pressure there was also low. My husband removed everything and checked and found no debris, what else can we check?
P Johnson
Greg says: Sounds like a washer had come loose and is inside the valve body or somewhere blocking flow. Did you change the seats? when you removed the stems, were the washers on them? Is flow restricted both shower and spout? Possibly removing stems and using compressed air into spout will blow out the blockage. Hi!
I tried to replace my shower handle the whole weekend going back and forth to Home depot. I tried the universal handle but they did not work cause the thing to attach the handle to is an AA type (figured this out at home depot). Where can I find single shower handles that are affordable and would fit the AA part?
Thanks a lot.
Greg says: No universal handles work in my experience since the operation of the valves is different the post stem is different the everything is different. To replace parts in a plumbing fixture you need to know the make and model just like cars. What make is your valve? My single handle Gerber tub faucet (circa 1986) is leaking. I removed the Philips screw and handle cover (stainless, tear-drop shape)but cannot get the base of the handle off, which also has that weird shape. I even tried fishing around with an Allen wrench through the hole that the Philips screw was in, thinking maybe there is another screw to loosen. The pipe sleeve can be rotated around but not the base of the handle. None of the plumbing videos on YouTube show this particular model of faucet. Suggestions?
Lou H.
Greg says: The handle is corroded on to the post of the stem, pull harder or use heat. If you go to Gerber online you can see a parts exploded view to see the parts arrangement. This is why I use a silicone paste when assembling fixtures. Just bought a mobile home, the tub/shower has a Moen handle for the turning on and off of the water. The handle sits at 6 o'clock and will rotate both directions. The problem is the water will continue to drip constantly and playing withthe handle toset it to off resultes in either a large run to a small drip. Can you advise on how to fix this?
Thankyou and have a Blessed Day.
Frank Bell
Greg says: Replace the cartridge as video shows, make sure your water pressure is below 80 psi static.
We have an outside pipe that drips first thing in the morning then stops mid morning. Could you please advise
Margaret
Greg says: Your comment is way to brief to have a clue. Do you mean a 3/4" copper elbow on the end of the pressure and temp. relief line?
Send a picture, tell me the facts, what is your water pressure? Saw your video on Delta single handle shower faucet. Very well done. However after rebuilding my faucet, water does not pass through valve to shower head. Assuming there is an obstruction between faucet and shower head; I know water is reaching the faucet. Any ideas?
JTC
Greg says: Pull off the shower head and run water with out it on the pipe! Watch all of your video - nice job!!
Question: When I turn on the cold water side of a 3-hole faucet it makes a loud hammer/banging sound. You can feel the vibration close to the handle. The hot water side is fine. Water pressure was checked and is at 65 psi.
Any Idea on how to fix? Might the stem be bad on that side?? Appreciate your thoughts.
Mark Scofield
Greg says: Mark,
The washer on the cold stem is loose or the seat is loose or both. Change seat and washer out. May as well do hot side as well. I bought a house recently that the inspector indicated has copper pipes for plumbing. The house is in Oregon and was built in the 1989. There are 2 full baths and one bath with just a sink and toilet. When I am in the shower and someone uses a lot of water (toilet or washing machine typically), the water temperature in the shower spikes inversely. So, if the toilet flushes with cold water, the shower gets scalding hot!
What is the cause of this and what would be proposed solutions. I've heard solutions are (1) repipe the entire house with that PEX pipe and (2) have a plumber install a thermostatic valve adapter to each shower.
What say you?
Thanks!!
Steve
Steve
Greg says: This is very common, and why pressure balance valves are mandated today. Thermostatic valves are one type and pressure balance is the lesses expensive of the two. First thing I do on any job is check the pressure of water w/o any water being used. it needs to be below 80 psi. have you done that?
I am no fan of copper pipe, but copper pipe is not the cause. faucet in the tub the water is either all hot or all cold. no warm at all.what can i do to fix it?
donald tribley
Greg says: Donald,
Much more info. needed, make, model, pressure, age, Hi Greg,
Just came across your site while looking for an explanation for an odd sound that seems to be related to our water pipes.
When the water is off (yes, off and not running), there is a very low, droning humming vibration sound that we can hear throughout the house. We live in a small split level townhouse. The sound is loudest in the downstairs 1/2 bath. The next loudest room is the upstairs bathroom which shares the high section of the downstairs 1/2 bath wall. The only time the sound stops is when we either flush either toilet or run any of the faucets in the house. As soon as we turn the water off (or the toilet finishes filling), the sound comes back.
Any idea of what this could be?
Much thanks and appreciation for whatever insight you can provide!
Anonymous
Greg says: I suspect you have a leak and the sound is from the very slow flow moving past a pressure regulator washer/seat. The water makes noise when moving and when a small amount moves thru a very tight opening, it groans. One issue to check is your pressure regulator. What is the street pressure? what is the house pressure, where is the regulator, and listen closely with your ear to the regulator, you will find the source. My outside overflow pipe constantly drips especially first thing in the morning.If I run the hot water tap it normally stops.Will this be an expensive job for a plumber to fix please?
F R
Greg says: Fredrick, that is not an overflow pipe, it is a temperature and pressure relief line discharge. Your pressure is too high, you need a new regulator and possibly a thermal expansion tank. Gred: Thank you for your comment. Are you saying that I must be certain that there is nothing getting in the way of the hose to move freely under the sink? Thanks for clarifying, Faye.
Faye
Greg says: Faye, I forget, what hose? the pull out hose for a kitchen faucet? If so, yes, and is things are in way of hose, use a sheet of cardboard vertically between the hose and object. This might make a sliding sound, but , will stop the pull out hose from catching on shut off valves or anything else. GALVANIZED PIPE PROBLEM
I am a single parent an have purchased an older home. Someone took the A/C unit and the Hot Water Tank so the house has been without water for over a year. It has galvanized pipe. Someone told me I have to replace all the faucets in the house even though they are new and the galvanized pipe because rust has surely gotten in the lines and will clog the faucets. Isn't there an easier and cheaper way to do this? I do not have the money for it, it's August and I need water. Isn't there a chemical or an enzyme I can buy to put in the hot water tank to flush out lines without replacing everything? HELP ME PLEASE. I HOPE SOMEONE IS READING THIS THAT HAS HAD THE SAME ISSUE BEFORE AND CAME UP WITH AN EASIER AND CHEAPER WAY TO DO THIS.
Moneyless Single Parent
Greg says: More info. is needed, call me 760-899-2889 I have an older Delta shower/tub faucet & then button tab under the faucet handle than controls flow to either the shower or tub has broken with water spraying from around the edges. Is this part replaceable or do I need to replace the whole faucet /
Jim
Greg says: Jim, That is called a diverter stem and that is a part sold in store. It looks like a dime sized paddle on a push/pull stick. it is held into the valve body with a nut. Use only real Delta made parts. I have a single kitchen faucet with a pull down spray handle. The faucet rotates left and right but immediately returns to the center on its own and will not stay over the left or right side. Why.
Faye
Greg says: The hose goes thru the center of the faucet body and that is path of no restriction or resistance. Our pipes have been knocking after we flush our toilet. We turned off the water pressure at the pump, drained the water out the lines, then closed the taps and turned the pressure back on. once we did that we now have no running water out of our bathroom sink. Our tub water runs, and the flush works fine but we have no hot or cold water coming out of the taps. Do you have any suggestions on what may have happened and how we may be able to fix this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Greg says: You caused debris in the pipes to be stirred up when you turned the water back on. The debris flowed to the smallest point in the line the the outlet of the fixture. You might have several issues going on. Air in pipes is one, high pressure is another and loose pipes in walls. I need much more info. Pipe type, age of house, location of water heater and distance to last fixture, do you have a circ pump or just a booster pump, what is the source of water, what make/type of booster pump, what pressure is the outlet of that pump... etc. I have a delta shower faucet handle that is very loose. I tighten it up with the internal screw, but handle eventually comes loose. Is there anyway to fix this?
manuel
Greg says: A lock washer and or a new OEM handle, the china made crap made to fit Moen sucks...
Is there a water flow restrictor in the Moen Eva Posi temp valve itself or one in the cartridge. thanks for your time and any insight you can provide
marge
Greg says: Marge,
All valves restrict flow, the cartridge restricts as well, the shower head has a flow restrictor that is by code 2.5 gpm max. Pressure and flow are two different things, to test a valve, remove the shower head turn on the valve full flow, water should flow out more than 5 gpm. usually 8 gpm. use a bucket and stop watch, calculator. I know the flow just to look at it. Send me a picture of water flowing w/o head on. I have replaced all my plumbing with pex. Now I have water in the kitchen and the bathroom sinks. No water to the bathtub or toilet.
They are all on the same line.Could there be an air lock or something else? I'm stumped.
Mike Tenhonen
Greg says: The aerators or shower heads plugged? pull supply tubes, shoot into a bucket, while tube is off, blow on faucet spout to see if clear... I am trying to replace the knobs of an old bathtub and the trim sleeves are to long, can a replace them with shorter ones?
John Drews
Greg says: John,
All trim parts are for a specific valve. To know the handle options, you must look for the mfgrs. factory options. Failure will come from one size fits all trim.
What make is your valve? how old? what finish? 2 handle, or 3 handle? or newer valve having one handle? I replaced a 27 year old Moen tub/shower trim with a Price-Pfister universal trim kit, as my valve was still usable, but so outdated I cannot find affordable trim kits.My problem is that the universal kit back plate (escutcheon) has a foam piece in the back (I assume to help keep out water) . My valve is not mounted to anything (this house was built with that horrible plastic pipe), so when I try to tighten the back plate to lessen the 1/4 inch gap that the foam causes, it pulls the valve forward and tweaks all the other pipes. So I don't want to do that. Do you have any suggestions for 1) stabilizing the valve and/or plastic pipes it is attached to (there is no visible piece of wood to attach it to) or 2)figure out how to get that back plate on without the gap, short of removing the foam ring on the back. My only thought now is to remove the foam ring, and glue the backplate to the tub surround.
Kalinda
Greg says: Kalinda,
Bad idea to use anything but Moen on a Moen any thing. Moen trim kits are at hardware stores that are made to fit the exact valve you have. The loose issue is another issue all together. Use a piece of pipe insulation or such between the valve and the shower wall that the trim plate pulls to. What you have is fixable this way. I have fixed dozens of loose valves this way every year. But use real parts, never use universal fit all plumbing parts. I repair most every valve I see when this is done. Price Phister has no place making parts for Moen. Greg,
What is the brand name of that delta valve tool. I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks,
Matt Marquardt
Matt Marquardt
Greg says: Delta makes it. Go to Delta.
Regarding knobs that control flow out of the tub-faucets or the shower: Some knobs enable the user to turn the flow on to a fixed flow-rate or off, and to control the temperature of the flow. Others allow the user to control the flow rate and the flow temperature. Individuals will differ in their preference for having or not having control over flow rate. Curious as to what you as a plumber thinks of the technologies underlying the two types of knobs.
SG
Greg says: Suresh,
The knobs simply attach to stems that control valves, this is a design matter. If the valve(s) are two instead of one, it costs more. The less expensive valves are temp only, (one knob). The double valves are more expensive and both flow and temp are controlled by separate knbobs. Pressure balanced valves are generally single handle, while thermostatic valves need to have two stems, one for temp and one for volume. Cost is a driving issue. Better valves are separate stems not co mingled and have their own location on wall. There is nothing new about this, just new codes driving residential application. Some people get confused easily... so it is a choice and a budget. Hi Greg,
My husband and I installed a new utility tub faucet, used shark bites instead of soldering (as intake lines come down from top). I have some questions because we have not done a lot of plumbing. We were told how to install the new one and also read directions but we are getting leaks around the male end of shark bite and union nut/tailpiece area. We used some teflon tape on threads (applying in proper direction) on the male end of sharkbite but none on the union nut. Is there something we are doing wrong? Could we have ruined something if we tightened it too tight? I thought you hand tighten it then use a wrench to do a 1/4 turn. We have tried plumbers grease as well on threads but no luck. We hate to call a plumber out just to get it tightened right and we don't have the money to do so anyway. Is there a product we could use to seal it better? Any advice or help is appreciated!
DIY wannabe
Greg says: Laura,
2 1/2 threads are to be left outside of the socket when a male thread is fully screwed into it. Two wrenches are needed and used opposing directions while having force only in rotation not moving the pipe/valve... Plumbers paste (PTTFE) or tape is best.
Hey Greg
Your videos are great, thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a Delta Bath tub faucet, the round knob style. I have replaced everything, the ball, gaskets, springs etc. by watching your videos (thanks for that). The problem I am having prior to and after replacing the parts, is I get a lot of cold water coming out, but my hot water is nothing but a dribble. I have to play with the knob for 20 minutes or more, just to find/get some hot water to come out. Any suggestions how I may fix this and get some hot water?
Bob Cahill
Greg says: Bob,
Remove the ball and springs, then turn on the water to house and wash/flush out the ports in the valve then re assemble. Making sure the cups are not in wrong. How can i CONNECT a GARDEN HOSE PIPE to pipe under kitchen sink and what parts will I need?
shaun stockale
Greg says: Your question is not clear to me. What are you meaning by "garden hose pipe" if you mean a hose bib, just buy a hose bib and use a tee in line with the cold supply to the kitchen faucet. Or, just screw a hose thread into the aerator threads on the kitchen faucet spout. My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?
Steve
Greg says: Quick easy fix is to cut the pipe off clean and square like the instructions that come with a shark bite fitting and push fit a fitting on to stop the leak. This could be done as a quick fix to stop water waste then if you call a plumber he or she can see if you need more. Just watched your video re: how to repair a Delta tub valve. Very helpful. But I still have a problem. Some weeks ago I replaced the "washers" because of a leak. I thought everything was fine - the leak stopped. But yesterday when we used the shower for the first time we had no hot water. Cold water comes out of both sides. I have taken it apart several times and a couple of times I have hot water but no cold! Very puzzling!
This is an old (45years) unit and I have tried both the short tapered springs and the longer springs.
Can you tell me what I might be doing wrong?
Thank you,
David Butler
David Butler
Greg says: Is your cold water in the attic getting hot and if you wait all will be fine? We are trying to replace bathroom faucets. Moen are in there and we are using Pfister. the bottom part is a long black tube , but the peice on the existing has another clear tube coming off of it, what would that be for?
Linda
Greg says: Your description is incomplete, are you replacing Moen wide spreads, with Price Phister wide spreads? the stop tubes are one thing, the connector tubes for the wide spread are another, the drain tubes are another the color matters not. Only you can see the colors of the tubes. Read the installation instructions? are you trying to mix brands? that will not work. Remove the entire old ones and install the new ones using the pictures in the instructions. Take a picture and send it to me... a picture is worth a thousand words... My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?
Steve
Greg says: Shark bite fittings are sold at hardware stores, they just push on to copper. Pipe needs to be round and cut clean.
Your Delta shower replacement of rings/springs/etc.
You did an awesome job, thanks.
I'm trying to figure why I am not getting anymore hot water to my bathroom from my water heater that's in the attic above my second story. The water heater is 13 yrs old and provides hot water when the temp is raised. Is the element going out or is the water heater worn out? Visual shows no rust around the base. I have drained it several times the past 4 yrs.
Can you give me any thoughts as to the issue?
Beau
Greg says: Water heaters life expectancy is less than 13 yrs. If it is electric, your elements need changing. since in attic best to replace the whole unit. Seriously... I am replacing my kitchen faucets and adding one that has a sprayer. My sink has a place for the sprayer but it has not been cut out and I would like to know how to do so. I have do everything as my husband is a total care patient so I learn as I go, any help is greatly appreciated.
Sharol
Greg says: Sharol, What is the sink basin made of? Stainless steel, cast iron, enamel steel, China, composite, or what. The material determines the tool to cut a hole. Stainless Steel requires a "Greenlee" punch 1-1/4" to 1-3/8" dia. A cast iron sink is not worth it, and composite will need a hole saw and enamel steel will most likely chip. Thanks! Got my ballcock replaced. I noticed your FAQ is accidentally spelled FUQ which is short for f!#k you. :-)
Casey
Greg says: Great, No, FUQ, Frequently Unasked Questions, FUQ ! I am doing a a spoof on FAQ, so often the answer to the Unasked Question is what needs being said! Clever .... When replacing ball on my delta shower handle, I must have twisted the inside valves because now the inside tubes where the springs go are at 10 and 12, not 11 and 1. So the handle when replaced does not go up and down but diagonal. Any way to fix this?
Ethan
Greg says: No, that is a risky situation, the twisted tubes could leak inside wall.
I need to insert a pvc "union" into an existing 1/2" outside water line so that I can
then place a faucet in the line.
I have the fitting, but can't figure out how to use it.
Can you help?
SteveG
Greg says: Watch my video online at you tube. I found your website and Youtube videos today. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I will be installing a water pressure regulator with Sharkbite fittings myself very soon! (98PSI residential water pressure and leaking toilets)
D.R.fan
Greg says: Save water, save money, do it right! there is a tip jar on my diy home page!
I just replaced the 1225 cartridge in my leaking Moen single handle
faucet and it works great. The problem I have now is the nozzle on my
spray hose leaks when I turn the faucet on and when diverting the water
from the faucet spout to the sprayer (by pressing the button on the
sprayer) the water will come out of the sprayer but also through the
spout (at reduced pressure.) Did I do something wrong when I inserted
the new cartridge? This is my first DIY project. Is it fixable by
replacing the spray hose or will I need to take the cartridge back out
and replace it again? Perhaps I have damaged the diverter valve in some way. Is it under the spout at the bottom of the faucet?
Jayne
Greg says: Jayne,
The diverter valve in the faucet body has debris in it, Pull the spout off and clean or replace the diverter valve. My kitchen faucet has a separate coordinating side sprayer so I assume the faucet is meant to have one. The problem is the faucet frequently loses water pressure when I'm not even using the sprayer. I have to turn the faucet off and release the water pressure in the sprAyer hose in order to get the pressure back up in the faucet, what gives?
Susan Schweer
Greg says: Sounds like an old Moen faucet, the diverter is causing flow restrictions. Tell me mfgr. send pix. get new faucet? Dishwasher Remedies for Brush stuck in Air Gap.... We watched your video for do it yourself clearing the dishwasher air gap, and we cant get the brush out. Help please.
Thank you
Marilyn
Greg says: Warm soapy water down the air gap opening at the top. If needed, un screw the hose at the disposal I have a kitchen sink whose faucet I have recently upgraded. The new faucet was a gift and did not include the functionality of a side sprayer, which the previous faucet/sink possessed.
I'd like to continue to use the sprayer, but have read/heard that hooking a standard side sprayer into a normal water line is a recipe for leakage/flooding.
My thoughts are in 2 directions.
1. Are there kinds of kitchen side sprayers which ARE capable of being directly connected to water pressure without having issues?
2. Is there some way I can connect a standard sprayer into the water system without risking trouble? For example do fittings exist which can limit the water pressure or take on the function of a diverter, such that pressure/water is only allowed in the sprayer line when it is in active use?
Thanks
Greg says: Use a pull out faucet having a hose connected to the spout end. What you have asked to do is in fact trouble.
The faucet its self needs to have a diverter inside to use a separate pull out hose. Replace the recently upgraded one with one having the features you want, Or add one and have two faucets? this seems silly. I just put a new shower head and no water coming out
joann
Greg says: Joann,
Remove the head, remove the debris that got into the inlet to the head, re install. OK here is my question. I have been told that 1/2 IPS PVC Comp. Coupling or any size is not recommended to be used on Hot water side. I have heard that the heat may melt them or that because of the hot water makes them come apart. I have also been told that it is against the UPC pluming code. So where can I get more info on this to show them if they are correct or wrong?
Mr. N
Greg says: The PVC coupling in the link is not code approved for indoor use. Very bad idea to use this fitting in plumbing. Hot or cold side. Public works came to replace my water meter. After they were done, I flushed all water lines, went to flush my toilet and I wasn't getting any water coming back in. So I flushed the line and had pretty good pressure, connected it back and I still was getting no water. I'm beyond frustrated, any suggestions would be great.
Corey
Greg says: Send pix of valve. How do I determine if my outside water faucet (bib) is threaded on or if it's a sweated fitting? I've looked all over the web and nowhere is there an explanation as to how you know.
Thanks!!
leave blank
Greg says: I know to look at it, send a pix to my site here or greg@ramonasplumber.com, or 760-788-2889 and call me tell me you sent a pix. Can I use a 1 1/4 in compression fitting on a shallow well pump? i want to take it apart in winter so it does not freeze. Im uncertain if this is considered high pressure< I watched your video and was curious> I have one on my well now and i cannot get it to prime> thought maybe that was problem.
andy
Greg says: Is the compression fitting on the suction side? or the discharge side, and what is the elevation depth from the pump and the water level and what is the pressure of the discharge, if it is on the discharge side? I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920. All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling. It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it. I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape. What am I doing wrong? All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Judy
Judy
Hi
MR.CHICK I'm a manager of a 3 small commercial stores. The water pressure has been ok the last 20 years,but recently the new tenant move in and do some remodel with plumbing and install a tankless water heater but not been operating yet(no gas yet). Now, the water pressure seems to drop; the city came and changed the meter and show after the meter that the pressure was Ok. but when it come to the building main shut off the pressure is lower. Now when the new tenant use any of the water in their unit, it makes 2 another units have less water pressure. The building is about 60 years old with galvanize pipes. What do you think my problem is, please give comment.
david lee viboolkij
Greg says: David,
The pressure is most likely fine, it is the flow capacity. Galvanized pipe does that. You might need to repipe the piping. Another possibility that could add to the flow restriction is a partially closed gate in a gate valve. Do you have gate valves or ball valves? Gate valves have round handles. I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920.
All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling. It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it. I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape. What am I doing wrong? All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Judy
Judy
Greg says: Send me a pix to my cell and call me to remind me to look at my messages. I suppose you wrapped too little tape or wrapped the wrong direction, or the brass threads are not screwed in all the way, or your water pressure is over 80 psi. I enjoyed your post in regards to the importance of water pressure. As a home inspector, licensed general contractor, and a construction manager for the last 20 years I've seen hundreds of thousands in water damage and mold remediation repairs, which all could have been repaired with a simple adjustment or replacement of the regulator. I would like to offer my opinion in regards to your recommended water pressure. I have found from personal experience, inspecting over 2500 homes and have consulted with several local water districts and/or agencies. The recommended water pressure is 65 psi to 70 psi. Although pre 1970 or so, it was 80 psi. In that era we manufactured better plumbing fixtures with less plastic and more lead and asbestos, :) which provided more reliable function under a higher pressure. Today, we have cheaply made fixtures, in our air tight energy efficient homes, with tons of cellulose sheathed gypsum walls and ceilings. Leak+No Air Movement+Molds Favorite Food = welcome to the era of mold growth.
Jeremy Johnson
Greg says: Jeremy,
Absolutely, in fact 55 psi is even better, I only use the figure 80 PSI because the plumbing code uses that as a max. and people are never going to drive 55 in an 80 zone. The issue driving people to want max is the power washing effect for those who have hair. When I set pressures at 75 to 80 range and get a call next day saying too low, I respond that is max as per code, can not turn it up any more. You can, but I can't.
Thanks so much for your appreciation of one of my pet peeves, yes, the loss of property for no good reason! I am sure you also see issues with fiberglass tub/shower stalls cracking and massive rot, as well as tile on drywall. Then they say, "I used green board" as if that was any more structural and didn't flex allowing the grout to leak.... Caulking piled up 1/2" thick with mold under it...Carpet under toilets! Sink basins mounted as to trap water at wall behind sink. And on and on... price per sq. ft. China mfgrs.
Thanks for your indulgence, I feel better now... round knob 1/4 turn angle lav stop has slow drip [when open but stops when off] @ packing, how do u remove the screwless knob? tried to carefully pry off; or is there no packing nut?
MM
Greg says: Mark,
I need more information. what are you talking about, an angle stop under a cabinet that supplies water to a lav.? or a 1/4 turn handle lavatory faucet? Hi..
my outside faucet is too close to the wall and I am unable to repair or replace it. I will have to call a plumber. What is an average cost of repair?
I would like to have a ball park amount to make sure I am not charged an arm and a leg. I live in Central Florida.
Thank you.
Mac
Greg says: Your question is too vague, ball park is vague, so a vague answer, $120 to $250. If the wall is wood siding that needs removing first, that alone could be a couple hundred. If stucco, different, but cheaper, if metal siding ... or if brick.... if steel pipe, if copper.... if parking alone for a repair truck is $25. like downtown San Diego then .... get my point? Do not expect a licensed and possibly insured , possibly fully equipped plumber to do work for less than $100. even for a fifteen min. job, because it takes an hr. to do what is required including travel time and restocking and misc. my retention clip will not come out. It comes down in front and dives back away from you.
tim
Greg says: Use an Awl or a pointed steel tip to pry up from the top front of the cartridge opening. Then use needle nose vice grips to finish pulling up and out .
I found your youtube on repairing a Delta 600 single handle shower valve a little too late. In trying to remove the cone shaped cap I used a little to much force and just as you warn about in the video I wish I saw 1st, I have twisted the copper tubes that secure it. Where do I go from here. I stopped as soon as I saw that the entire valve was turning but I am sure the copper tubing has been twisted and broken. If I continue and twist off the copper tube is this something I can fix myself or do I at this point need to call a plumber?
Thank You
Greg says: Is the water still on to the bldg.? if no water is spewing out you have time to get a plumber of your choice. Replacing the entire valve is required now. Depending on what you use to replace it with .... this task starts @ $500 and goes up fast to $1000.
As i was replacing a shower head a little piece of thread broke away from the pipe. When i installed new shower head it leaks, looks like I need to fix the threaded area on pipe or cut end and rethread. Not sure how to do that and what tools are needed.
Thanks
Brian
Greg says: If you are referring to the threads on the shower arm having 1/2" threads and a bend in it, just replace the arm, they are $3.00. Use teflon tape on both ends. If the head has a non tapered female thread and a gasket inside the socket, the head is designed to fit to a perfect end pipe thread, teflon tape might work, but the end of the arm is damaged and should be replaced. The arm is an easy spin out and new one threaded back in.
I changed my electric water heater. it is working the water gets really hot. The first floor in the kitchen gets really hot water. when you go up stairs to the second floor to the bathrooms. the shower and sinks stay cool. what do you think could be the problem.
Thanks
Michael
Greg says: With little information, I can only guess you have cold mixing into hot from a single handle control valve. I need to replace sink sprayer due to cracked hose. I bought unit but cannot get old one unscrewed from under sink. Any ideas how to loosen fitting? Following is photo:
http://s71.photobucket.com/user/kfisher18/library/Mobile%20Uploads
Kathy
Greg says: There is a tool called a "Nut buster" made for this. Or, before the tool, I just drilled the nut on one side and it popped off. Goggles required. For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.
Thanks
AMG3232
Greg says: You need to give me the make & model of the valve. A picture will do for a start, To greg@ramonasplumber.com or to 760-788-2889 For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.
Thanks
AMG3232
Greg says: Look to see if it is a Moen, if so my video will show you. Take a picture, sent here or to 760-788-2889, I will know by looking at the handle of the shower ... Does the valve turn counter clock wise to get hotter and fully clockwise to shut off? I'm having a real issue with a leak past the threads of the sink drain pipe that slips into the p-trap. I've wrapped it with teflon tape but it still leaks. Is it ok to use plumber's putty on these threads?
billy
Greg says: Plumbers putty is not for threads, threads do not slip into a P Trap, I need a picture to understand your connection problem, sent to here or 760-788-2889. Alignment is often the cause of leaks, slip joints use a slip joint washerm threads use tape or teflon paste. If the P Trap has threads on top, that is for a slip joint washer. The threads on a P Trap are as well in the union, but that union joint uses teflon paste.
We recently remodeled our bathroom, taking out the tub and doing a step in shower. We dd not repalce the valve to the shower as it was new. Now the problem is there is no cold water coming through the faucet and we are unable to adjust the temperature of the water. How can it be repaired?
Peggy Armstrong
Greg says: Depends on the valve make, and what is the problem, My guess is, yes, put in a new OEM cartridge. That should fix the problem. I am having an issue with the water coming out of my shower head when the tub spout is running. I replaced the spout thinking it was the diverter valve but no luck. Same problem. Could it be because my water pressure is too high?
Jesse
Greg says: Has the valve always done this? if the valve is plumbed wrong this will happen. Yes very high pressure will cause this. The tub spout is the priority port in a correctly plumbed valve. the path of most resistance is the shower, but too high pressure will max the capacity of the spout port causing the excess to release up to the head. 80 psi is max pressure, get a gauge and put it on the hose bib of the house while no water is running.
I am asking about Improving Toilet Flush Performance. I have two toilets. In one, pouring through the overflow tube works and the vinegar goes through the rim. The other toilet has an extra outlet for the overflow, so instead of going through the rim, anything I pour in there comes in through a secondary hold in the bottom of the bowl. My question is, how can I get the vinegar to go through the rim? Should I empty the tank, open the flapper, and pour it in that way? Thanks.
Shannon
Greg says: Stuff toilet paper into the "Hole" siphon jet as it is called. pour fast using a large outlet funnel. The velocity of the vinegar will be enough to reach around the rim and the path of least resistance (siphon jet) will be most resistant.
I am remodeling my bathroom and took out a wall dividing the toilet from the rest of the bathroom. the sewer vent pipe was in the wall. how do I relocate it to the side wall and back to the ceiling again? I need sewer vent pipe relocate 101 to help me with this project. thanks determined female!
determined female
Greg says: I assume you have a crawl space? If not it is jack hammer time. Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your excellent, helpful video on how to buy and a replace a toilet flapper. I didn't even know what a flapper was until I did a Google search. With the help of your video I was able to successfully buy and replace my warped flapper to stop my toilet leak.
Thank you
JS
Greg,
I'm stumped: I'm installing a 50-gallon gas water heater for some friends; When I fill up the tank the pressure release valve on the side allows a continuous steady trickle. Thinking it faulty, I replaced it with another new release valve: the same issued occurred. The water pressure in each house faucet seems just fine, so I don't think it's an issue - besides, these valves open at 150 psi. Am I just unlucky perhaps getting two new valves that are both duds? Seems very unlikely to me but I can't think of anything else to do than try a third new pressure valve. Your thoughts are duly appreciated!!
- Steve.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is too high!. "water seems ok" is not a pressure gauge on a faucet with no water moving to measure static pressure. 80 psi or less is needed. There is also a mandated thermal expansion tank required. Water pressure is dangerous. No, you do not have two faulty PTRV's, you do not even have one defective PTRV. You need to effectivly deal with the pressure. I have a rental condo in AZ. The tub faucet while trying to remove the pipe it started moving. I've noticed all the piping around the condo does not have any support for the hoses outside.. So I should have known the house would have the same bad plumbingg.
Just wondering what would be the best for removing the faucet and if that pipe was treaked then will I have to cut out the tub/shower wall out. There is the neighbors unit on the other side of the wall. I'm trying to not have to rip everything out and save some money as I've been stuck with this condo for years now because of the housing issues here in Phoenix.
If you have any suggestions that would help that would be great.
I'm an electrician and I'm sure some suggestions I could handle it.
If I do have to cut that tub wall which is one of those tub enclosures that's all one piece, what could I use to cover the big hole and not replace the whole enclosure.
Thanks
Scott
Scott
Greg says: Remodel plates are used to cut out a large enough hole to work and cover the hole made in the enclosure. I cut out the tile or fiberglas and strap the valve into the studs. Send a picture of the shower valve you have.
Thank you Greg, great web site!
My problem is with my toilet. I was able to use the toilet with a weak flush and usually I had to flush twice, but if I also used toilet paper it would clog. So I can use the toilet so long as I don't use toilet paper - go figure :-( I used the "closet auger" along with the vinegar you suggest on your video and so far so good.
Question: I used the 3' & 6' RidGid auger many times on the same day to get rid of the clog, but nothing ever came out - is that common? It seems to have helped even though nothing came out. And then I used the vinegar on two consecutive days and it seems to be working. But I'm confused about nothing coming out with the auger.
Can you please use my email for responding because I don't know where to look for my answer here.
Thanks
roger estrada
Greg says: Toilet bowls are just a basin having a P trap built into the china casting. The passage way is about 2" diameter, the passage way gets build up of water deposits and causes blockages, or waste to not slid on thru. The 3' auger cable is the length of the passage way in the bowl from water level to the outlet into the pipe at finished floor. The flush or siphon action sucking the waste from bowl to the outlet of the bowl is caused by the speed and force of water dropping down the back side of the bowl passage way. When all is not smooth and when the transfer of water to bowl from the tank is not perfect, this magic does not happen. An auger usually pushes thee soft blockage thru into the waste pipe in floor, so you do not see it. The passage way allowing the waste to leave the toilet is not visible, the passage way for water to get to the bowl from the tank is not visible either. The auger attempts to clear the waste way, and the vinegar should dissolve the mineral build up is the passage way from tank to bowl and to waste way. Some bowls are inferior design. Use a bucket of water poured into bowl to see if that causes a siphon, if so, the transfer is the limiting factor, if not, the bowl waste passage is the limiting factor. I'm designing a large residence that will encompass two complete living spaces with full kitchens, multiple bathes, multiple laundries,etc. My local water district offers hook-up of meters in 5/8", 3/4", and 1" services for $5000, $8500, and $10,000 respectively. Knowing the source will feed two homes, would make the most sense to buy the small service to feed a large capacity tank, and use a booster system to supply both "homes"? I'm no master plumber, but Iassume using larger capacity pumping from the supply tank and booster would give me better volume and pressures than paying extra for a1" service that would still very likely be inadequate.
Greg says: A 3/4" meter will easily flow 18 GPM, a shower is 2.5, the only reason to have larger than a 3/4" meter is either fire sprinklers or lawn sprinklers that are large. I have never known a 5/8" meter to be too small for fixtures only. The charges reflect capacity charge not the cost of the meter it's self. A meter is less than $100. I am trying to replace my kitchen sink faucet. All the videos and pictures I see online are not like my sink faucet. I need help. I can provide a picture of under my sink.
Greg says: Yes, please send a pix. but all faucets pretty much attach the same. There is threaded nuts screwed up to sink bottom holding the faucet on. A basin wrench or a faucet socket wrench is needed. Greg, i'm wanting to refurbish a older Delta Shower fixture like the one in your video "How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve" I'm having difficulty finding a replacement Dome Cap. My local supply houses and big box stores don't have any in stock and seem to have no idea what I'm talking about. Do you have a part number for the dome cap and sleeve for that shower fixture and a possible source of supply?
Greg says: Delta calls it an RP 50, the brass dome that screws onto valve body to hold in the ball and seal. Look at Delta parts online at factory site or another site having delta parts. Hello Greg,
I have a doublewide trailer my master bathroom has a drainage problem. Own this house since it was new. I replaced a section of pipe about 11 years ago the plastic drain pipe sagged. Now all these later a different section of pipe has a sag. I am sure this is the problem. I am considering ripping out the drain pipes putting in new ones. How do I get the proper pitch for drain pipes I am sure it was never set up properly since the house was new. Thanks for your help
John D.
Greg says: John,
One can support the existing plastic drain pipes using sections of angel metal and aggressively zip tying to the rigid straight metal straightening out sags. I have used a hairdryer/heat gun and applied tension on sagging plastic pipes to the point of perfect pitch! Only if the drop that is needed is present between the sags. I used the metal on top side pulling up the sag. Even if half the distance is used with metal, this works. Hi Greg, your website is a fantastic resource, thank you!
I have an apparently hard to diagnose slab leak. There's a wet patch slowly growing through a hairline crack in my garage slab, the garage being attached to the house.
I called my regular plumber out, he watched the leak detector on the water meter with everything turned off in the house, it did not move. Then he attached a pressure gauge to a hose bib and turned off the city valve. We watched for about 10 minutes and it remained a steady 100 psi on his gauge. He doesn't think that there would be a waste water line near the leakage but offered a static test to see if our sewage lines were leaking.
I called the professional leak detection service he recommended and they were generous with advice over the phone, though it would be $1200 for them to come out and find the leak, not including fixing it. They said it was unlikely to be a waste water leak because those "usually don't come up though the slab." They also seemed to think a groundwater problem would also be unlikely, though it's been very rainy here and we've recently covered over some of the area outside the house with stone and granite gravel.
So, I'm at a loss how to proceed. I ran the meter test myself for 8 hours, the spinner moved not at all and the sweep hand finally ticked off one gallon near the end of the 8 hour watch period. I put fluorescent dye down the drains and none showed up where the concrete is efflorescing. Now I plan to repeat his pressure gauge test on the hose bib but let it go for hours instead of a few minutes.
I'd love to hear your advice before I give the leak detection company thousands to use their listening devices, heat sensors, line cameras, ground penetrating radar, and jackhammers.
Thanks! :)
Terry D
Greg says: Terry,
In San Diego a company called CPL will do leak detection for $225. Your being "worked" The moisture coming up can be ground water from natural source of water from a pipe leak no on your meter. Is the house in slab elevation on a sloped hillside where homes or soil are above your house slab? I consider some possibilities do exist you have a leak, but, slim chance. Keep in mind that water moves in soil and millions of gallons are lost everyday in street line leaks that go some where... I need more info. altho you have been more clear than most.
How much water is from crack in slab? is it constant, when did it start? Greg,
I have a Nibco T-111 Gate valve with a drain that is used to turn on and shut off the whole house water. Can I repack the stem with the valve in the closed postion with water pressure still applied to the valve? The valve is installed before the water meter and after the curb stop. My curb stop is frozen and cannot be closed, otherwise I would just replace the valve with a newer ball valve shutoff. The house was built in 1987, so the valve should be from that time frame.
Can a person install a plastic line with a shutoff, where the drain cap is installed, so the house plumbing can be drained very easily, with the gate valve closed? This would make it easy to drain the plumbing if a person would want to do any plumbing work on any of the house copper piping.
I watched one of your videos on repairing a gate valve on a large water tank. Learned a lot from it, Thanks!
Greg says: The water district has a responsibility to provide a shut off at the meter, but, yes gland packing can be done with the water on, but it is not the best thing because the gate needs to be moved as maintenance, so do exersize it. Send pictures Hi, I find all your videos very useful and I like watching them. On one of your video I have seen you installing Grundfos recirculating pump in domestic hot water system with THERMOSTAT and TIMER on it. I have looked over the Grundfos website but couldn't find the similar type of pump. The reason I am looking similar pump is; Recently we have installed a hot water system with a secondary return in 60m x 30m (Building size) welfare facility building in remote side of the country. Hot water is provided by 3 x 3kW 300 litres electric water heater enough to supply hot water to the facility. According to drawing, we have circulating pump connected with DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER and 2 x Temperature sensors in FLOW and RETURN pipes. As we have not found the correct type of DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER to suit our requirement, we have not installed circulating pump at this stage. After I have seen your video, I think the most cheapest way to circulate water in the system is by using similar type of pump with inbuilt THERMOSTAT and TIMER. Could you please help me to find the right pump similar to yours in the video. I am not a plumber and don't have plumbing knowledge and we don't have plumber with great knowledge. Your help on this matter would be much appreciated. By the way I live in UK.
Tanka
Greg says: What size pipe? I /we use 1/2" & 3/4" sizes here, but call it what you will you need a circulator able to move about 1 gpm. If you want a perfect design, contact Metlund, ACT Demand circulators. Here in Ca. They have all you could need. They use Grundfos pumps and add sensors and controls. They are world class and the best. Good (very early) Morning!
My family and I have lived in our current home for 17+ years and have been the only residents. We do have municipal water but have a septic tank for sewage. Our house is a one-story, we have two full bathrooms and the house sits upon a concrete-slab sitting on top of tons of Georgia Red Clay. (yippee)
There have been varying numbers of people living in the home, from as little as 2 to as many as 12. Thankfully, the 12 was for less than a year, several years ago. On average, there are 4 people in the home.
Before I explain the problem I'm writing about, let me say that we have had a couple of times where the septic tank has backed up (yuck), so I've seen what that's like. That's not the issue that keeps occurring.
In the past 10 years especially, we've had multiple instances where all of a sudden our bathroom floors will be flooded with cool, clean water. No suds, no grime, nothing... just whatever it picked up on the floor. However, we can never find where the water is coming from. My dad has been under the belief that it was the septic tank needing to be pumped but that has never seemed right to me because the water is clear and it's not coming out of the drains. Nor is it coming from the sink that's closest to the septic tank (which would be the kitchen sink).
However, each time he calls the septic tank guys out, and coincidentily, the tank is in need of being pumped. The reason I think that's a coincidence is because the only time the septic tank gets pumped is when this issue happens!
From the noises that I hear, the timing of the flooding I'm thinking more that its an issue with water pressure going too high. I believe that it causes a leak in a pipe that is in that common wall between the bathrooms and my office.
Presuming I'm right, I don't know how to convince my dad that it's at least worth checking out. Because to my knowledge, the only way to prove its a pressure issue would be to experience a pressure spike while having a large hole in the wall.
Is there a way to figure this out? It happens no more than twice a year, if that. Throughout the year, I'll hear the pipes making weird noises, sometimes these "glub-glub" noises, other times its this grinding, wrenching noise that is much louder and goes throughout the house... these noises I've never heard in any other home I've lived in. But usually, if you go run the water or flush the toilet a time or two, it goes away (as if it's relieving pressure).
Any suggestions or advice you could give would be greatly appreciated! This is getting to be a very annoying, not to mention costly issue that isn't getting fixed!
Thanks in advance for your time and any info you have!
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
McDonough, GA
Elizabeth
Greg says: Please see my reply I sent in e mail. use a lazy hand gauge to monitor pressure, see pressure regulator video. Bathroom sinks are back to back, water will not drain in either sink. I checked the P-traps their clean. When I take the P-traps off, the water will drain into a bucket. Between both sinks. When I put the p-traps back on, and turn on the water it starts to fill up again. I don't have a snake, I could rent one from Lowes. Can you help? What's the problem
Greg says: The drain line is blocked after the fixture tee in the wall, down in the drain line of the stack, This requires a snake cable thin enough to be directed into the trap arm coming out of wall and down the waste pipe instead of shooting straight across the double fixture tee and into the next bathroom. This is best done using a 1/4" snake cable having a drop head on it. larger cable is fine if you can direct it down instead of across the fitting.
Once the water is clearing it is then necessary to run water down the drain to wash the line clear.
I am not suggesting you do this unless you are willing to work, get dirty and be subjected to bacteria etc. Professional plumbers are skilled at this and usually do a good job. If your pipes are cast iron you could have a real bad time doing this... The hot water in both of my showers is ice cold. There is hot water coming out of all the sinks, but I have ran the shower water for at least 10 minutes and it won't get warm. I have a single handle delta facet in both showers. Please help....tired of cold showers.
Greg says: The Delta valves, how old are they? are they pressure balancing type? do they have a spool in them? I just replaced the flapper on my toilet and now it flushes three times with one swipe of the handle. What did I do wrong?
Greg says: It does not flush 3 times, it siphons 3 times, (sorry I am anal). The flapper has a timing of buoyancy that allows water to drop into bowl. This buoyancy is built into the design of the correct flapper! Use the right part. Lower the water level, cause the flapper to close at a sooner time. After contractor installed new faucets in bathroom sink when you first turn on the hot and cold water, the water is brown. We were away for a month and the water actually was black at first. Can you help? The contractor does not know what is wrond.
Greg says: I need more info. are you on well water? have galvanized piping? how old is the building? is the water main plastic? what is the pressure? how do I change the stems and seats on a 3 valve Danco Gerber tub shower faucet? Where do I watch your videos at?
CKW
Greg says: First of all, Danco is a spin off parts mfgr. from China, marginal quality parts. Gerber OEM parts are best. Gerber is a great mfgr. and send me a picture of the valve you want to repair and I will help you. Parts best gotten from Gerber or real Gerber, not "Fits Gerber" I need valve model and or exact desc. Age etc. What is it doing wrong and what is your static pressure. The pipes in our house start whistling several times during the day & night. One of the times is usually around 5am when no water appliance has been used for a while. If we flush a toilet or run the water in the sink & shower full blast, it stops. Could it be the fill valve even though the toilet hasn't been used for several hours? Any advice you provide is greatly appreciated, I'm tired of waking up an hour early just to flush the toilet so the noise will stop.
keith
Greg says: You have velocity/pressure issues. See my video on water pressure. Also know that pressure can be created within the bldg. by the water heater called thermal expansion. This is in addition to pressure regulators. You have a serious issue when pressure is a problem. This is a action needed item. Have installed new compression shut off valve under kitchen sink installation was per instructions.
When Main water supply is turned back on, Valve assembly blows right off copper pipe.
HELP!
Michelle
Greg says: The compression ring was installed? the copper was 1/2" ? the copper needs to be inside the valve body about an inch. Hello,
I have an underground PVC pipe for my sprinkler system that's broken at one section at 3 way joint. I believe I may need to replace the whole 3 way joint because there's a small section of broken off PVC inside the 3 way joint.
If my assumption is correct, what is the easiest way to reconnect the 3 pipes back into a new 3 way joint?
Thank you so much.
CW
Greg says: That 3 way joint is called a Tee, a tee is replaced by unions or couplings, keeping in mind that its location can not move therefore the couplings are needed to be on all 3 pipes. Slip fix fittings are good for this. I have replaced both valve stems on my tub shower enclosure, however when either is used,water streams out of the designated spot ie: tub or shower but water also streams out of the two valve stems, I have made sure it is tight, so I'm wondering if there is a bad valve seat in the wall, on both? and if I can replace from the shower side, or do I have to open the wall behind the shower? IE: the closet in the hallway.
scott
Greg says: What make valve stems? take a picture? are the stems ceramic sealing,(1/4 turn? ot multi turn having washers and bonnet nuts? and yes there are seats inside valve bodies that have stems. Cartridges usually have a different system then stems, that is the reason for name difference... are you describing your situation using correct terms? I haven't seen any advice on how to fix a tub faucet diverter. I have a Delta SBS that doesn't seem to be working very well anymore at getting the water up to the shower head when I pull up the knob. Any advise you have would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
Greg says: Pull the handle and plate off and unscrew the push-pull diverter and clean it up and put silicone grease on it and re install. Not the thin spray silicone, but the paste type found at pool supply. If the plastic paddle of the diverter is broken, replace it with new one from hardware store.. I watched your video on how to fix a Moen Shower Knob and tried to figure out what my situation was. The handle move freely all the way around but doesn't catch to turn the water on. I unscrewed to know with Allen wrench, the black cap with grooves to sit inside the handle was there in which I unscrew with a Phillips and then the two white circles that set inside each other look fine. So the problem is the black cap and white circles do not move or budge when turned. They stay right in the T shape of the metal collar. So when I put the knob back on, it doesn't turn anything to have the water turn on. I don't know what's the next step. The cartridge was just replaced the week before and my son was taking a bath and I'm very positive he was messing with the handle but not sure if he was using excessive force? Could he have broken the whole thing? I cannot replace it due to lack of funds . Is there help for me? Thank you in advance!
Delia
Greg says: Delia,
The Moen trim you refer to is a lever handle? Many different handles exist. The cartridge you have is turn only? not pull out and turn ? And no you have not broken the whole thing, just that plumbers are better at working on fixtures than you, and to be honest the assembly you describe is not an easy assembly to pull apart and re assemble. There is a steel collar that if not all the way pushed into the valve body it will scrape on underside of the handle. I suggest sending me a picture of the finished look, and a pix with the handle off, and another with the handle adapter off. I can then refer to different pix in telling you how to re assemble. You do not know the terminology and it would be easier. Greg,
Thank you for posting the videos on youtube!
I just finished a repair project for a Delta single handle shower lever. Without your knowledge and helpful video, I would've had to hire a plumber!
Much appreciation to you for taking the time to make these videos!
Greg says: My goal is to help you save water and not prevent you from hiring a Plumber, if you can afford one or chose to just DIY. Also show what is needed to people who think it is easy. And prevent DIY'ers from twisting off the body of the valve. I see too often people cause more harm than good. As a Plumber I support my fellow tradesmen, yet at same time support my fellow americans in conserving water as well as these tight times can be tough, and some people let it drip. Having disclaimed all that I hope to be off assistance and not cheat my fellow Plumbers. and at same time help you, thanks for watching, tell a friend... Hi Greg,
I appreciate you taking the time to educate and help us DIY'ers. My issue deals with a 'freeze proof 14 turn ball-valve hose bib...in fact it deals with 5 of them. We had them installed on our home when we built in 2007. Now they all drip and don't close completely, There is no interior leaking they just don't turn off completely on the outside. The only fix we can see is to tear into the interior drywall ceiling to be able to access them for repair/replacement. Our exterior is brick. and we live in zone 5 with freezing temps every winter down to the 0's sometimes We even had some -10 to -15's this past winter.
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Andrea Urban
Greg says: They are serviceable, most likely woodford brand, the water to the house is turned off first and the long stem is unscrewed and new washer put in and Wa, La, your fixed. I had a plumber come over to my house because I have been hearing a humming-vibrating sound when I run water in my sinks and when the toilet finishes flushing. One of our toilets overflowed a few weeks ago and the water level rises up to the rim of the bowl every time we flush it.
The plumber checked the pressure in our backyard and it was 100 psi. He suggested replacing the water pressure valve on our main water line. We live in a townhome. I see only one valve to shut off the main water line. Do I need to look for another shut off valve somewhere else? Do I need to call the city I live in to shut off the line outside near the sidewalk?
He also suggested replacing the toilet or inner workings of the toilet. I am making progress on that project.
I really thought the plumber would have snaked the toilet to remove or loosen up anything that might have gotten snake but he did not mention that.
Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks
Cassandra
Greg says: The toilet overflowing is not related to water pressure, an auger should clear that, or the soft blockage could just dissolve on its own. The one main shut off the the house is where the regulator goes, just after the full port ball valve needed to shut off house water. Having a problem with not enough cold water in the shower. I live in Arizona and during our hot summers our cold water is basically warm, but my problem may lie with the shower valve. I have a delta shower valve that if you turn the knob counter-clockwise turns the shower on and the more you turn it the hotter it gets and obviously turning clockwise makes it colder and eventually off. My problem is that I get plenty of water pressure when the shower is running hot, but as I turn the knob clockwise the heat does go down but its still warm/hot and I am loosing pressure in the process. Eventually as I'm adjusting the shower will shut off, but It never gets cold or even cool enough to enjoy in the summer. Do you have any idea what is causing this or if I need to get a new valve? Thanks, Kevin
Kevin
Greg says: Do you have attic piping? The pressure balance cartridge is replaceable. Problem - no hot water in power shower (but plenty available)
I have a shower powered by a pump called a "superboost twin". The pump appears to work but no hot water makes it into the shower head (which has been cleaned) a couplee metres away any more. The weird thing is that the hot water outlet pipe from the pump to the shower seems to get much hotter (near the pump) than the inlet hot water pipe which draws from the adjacent hot water tank. Further, although the pump kicks in as soon as you turn the shower tap on when the thermostat is on a cold setting, if the thermostat on the shower starts at a mid or hot setting, the pump will not kick in and no water comes out at all. There seems very little pressure in the water (which is only cold) at these settings.
Do you think this is a thermostat issue or maybe a trapped air issue? If either case seems likely, what can I do?
Any advice most gratefully received!
Regards
Ian
Ian Magness
Greg says: Contact superboost, I am not familiar with it. I sprung a leak in my thermal expansion tank. I have a shut off valve on the line which I turned off(the tank was shooting water from the hole.) The leak stopped but after a while it started to drip from the hole and the cold water pipe from the hot water heater began to get warm.
The pilot light must of have gone out before I new the water was leaking. I shut to knob from on to off on the hot water heater. I thought it best to let any water dry before re-lighting the pilot.
Is the warm pipe normal? If I remove the thermal expansion tank to replace, will I have a lot of water to deal with?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time!
Robb
Robb
Greg says: The expansion tank is full of water and the hot water is from the water heater causing conduction of heat thru the pipes. We are renovating our bathroom. While taking the old tub out we discovered that due to a prior water leak the plumbers rerouted the copper water pipes around the perimeter of the house and fed them through the wall, through the steel tub braces to the faucet on the left side of the tub. We cut the copper pipes and used shark bites and PEX tubing to reroute the water along the wall of the tub surround. I'm hoping this is a sound fix as the research I've done says that this will work.
We purchased a new brass tub overflow and drain kit, however the tailpiece is smaller than the waste pipe in the foundation. Could you advise us as to how we should remedy this? Do we just fill the gap with plumbers putty? The pipe in the foundation is PVC. Are there washers or something to accommodate this difference? Is there really nothing that connects the drain tailpipe to this waste pipe? Do we Teflon all the threads on the waste tee? It just seems odd that the overflow and the drain pipes just slide in the waste tee with only the plastic washers keeping them in place, but I understand the reason is to accommodate the distances in the different bathtubs.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Kathleen
Kathleen
Greg says: Kathleen,
The 11/2" tail piece from the waste and overflow is to vertically connect to a 1/12" trap adapter having a slip joint washer and nut. the 11/2" pipe below is IPS (Iron Pipe Size) normally 11/2" and the trap adapter on top is the reducer adapter to "tubular 11/2" size.... If access allows a mission coupling will meet code if it is for IPS to Tubular size (11/2" X 11/2").
5/19/2013, I have the same faucet in my shower that you show on the video and the dome will not unscrew after tapping a couple of times. Should I spray w-d40 on it or is there something else that will work or should I just keep working on it until it gives?
Thanks, John
John Messineo
Greg says: WD 40 has worked as have other solvents. Heat works too a hair dryer on the dome and not on the valve body. Now that I've installed an expansion tank with air to 60psi do i set my pressure regulator to 60psi with a faucet running water or not?
hector cunningham
Greg says: Adjust pressure while water is running but, when water is not running that pressure is what you set it at. Pressure will be about 10 psi lower while water is running. Easier to pump up air when water pressure is off and drained of pressure. I want to replace the handles only on my shower.Ê It is a Delta product and was put in when the house was built in 1983.Ê Of course they don't make this particular style any longer so I was wondering what my options are for new handles.
Thanks for your time.
Susie Q
Greg says: Send me pictures of your existing handles. I have water pressure to the house at 60psi when I turn on a faucet or flush a toilet it only drops 3to 5 less no problem but in the morning after using some water gauge still be at 60 or so but the red needle will be up at 130 or therabouts. I tested it tonight at 6pm and set it at 60 when i checked it at 7pm both needles were at 120 ithen turned on a faucet in the house and it immediately dropped to 60.what can it be?
hector cunningham
Greg says: Thermal expansion. Look at Watts Thermal expansion tank in google search... I have a single valve shower faucet that stopped working. When I turn it I hear a skipping sound as if teeth from a gear are missing. Now I took apart the faucet, but the base of the handle wont budge. I noticed the sleeve is free spinning so it should pull right out. The handled only has a cap covering the center screw, and the handle itself I unscrew as well as it makes contact with the first screw I removed. The backplate, faceplate came off with ease, but the ball of the handle will not come off. Theres no secondary screw checked and re-checked. The sleeve rotates without any friction so is not a screw-on piece
The product doesn't have its name like other companies would but I did noticed a 'N" in a circle as the only marking from a manufacturer. I hope there is a solution to this other then getting a plumber and take the whole unit out and replacing it. I have pictures if it helps. Thank you.
Ivan JB
Greg says: Take a picture and send it to me... greg@ramonasplumber.com I've viewed your video on leaking flappers. I've got a pr of 25 yr old Eljer Emblem toilets in my house - in use for all these years, with limited issues encountered. One of them's having flapper leak trouble. (It happens to be the toilet used less than the other - due to the location in the house). I've bought 2 flappers this week that I was told would be appropriate to use, and neither has fixed the problem. One of them was a blue colored one, (I was told it was made for the regional plumbing supply chain to work on Eljer toilets). The other was a red Korky, labeled "universal". There's no apparent issue with the ear's to Frankenstein hook issue you describe, and nothing going on with a chain with too much (or not enuf) chain slack that you talk about. The water leaks out of the bowl in 3-5 hours. I get the idea that Eljer "Emblem" model is getting hard to find parts for.
What should I do next. Thank You.
Mike
Greg says: The flush valve that contains the flapper is attached to the tank and can leak into the bowl. The replacement requires replacing the tank to bowl bolts and gaskets too. It is a standard flush valve but needs to be cut to not be too high for the overflow. the max hight is the hole in the tank wall to allow the flush handle to mount. Thanks for the video. It help me greatly. My son in law has a really old leaking delta shower faucet and after replacing the parts delta(rp70 multiple times) suggested it was still leaking(dripping almost running) out of the tube faucet. So I took a look at it. What I found was that the cold water seat for the spring and seal was a bit corroded and had build up of scale(I carefully cleaned the scale off). The normal rp70 seal couldn't seal against the ball properly because of the corrosion . I found a seal for a valley brand faucet that was the same size a the delta but has a longer neck that actually covers the delta spring almost completely and has 3 ring seals a round the seal itself. It takes a little work to get it in the hole. Your suggested grease really helped get it in. You have to be really careful putting the ball back in also(because the seal that rides on the ball stick out a little more than the delta, but it will push back into the hole. But the cool thing is that it took care of the problem completely. I also put a adjustment ring back in like you said there was(which delta said wasn't needed anymore). On the older models it is needed because you can't tighten down the half moon cap properly without the adjustment ring. Got all the parts at Menard's and Home depot. Thank you so much for the video. Saved replacing the hole faucet.
Stanb
Greg says: Is the ball a new stainless one? The ball is the other half of the seal. The plastic balls get pitted and scratched. You saved the day! We watched ur video and took our drain off with no problem! Kind of felt silly it was so simple! Found our clogged problem! Our young daughters bead necklace!! Who would have known!!!! Thanks a million!
Greg says: Wet Dry vac's really suck! kids, well only a mother knows how to love unconditionally. I instead of kids, love my work and love sharing as a mother does. I am glad my "Love" has done another good deed! We have gone national and it is like fame, and your thanks are what makes it worth it. Thanks for your comment.
Greg
OXOXOXOX Your video on how to fix water leaks on the Delta bathtub faucet was excellent!! I admire how you make it look so simple.
My challenge is a little different: I have taken my Delta faucet apart many times to try to resolve one problem. After replacing the guts of the faucet--the springs, rubber caps, round ball, etc., I still cannot get hot water to come out full force like the cold water does. As matter of fact, most recently, when I re-did the parts again and put it back together, when I turn the hot water on full force (all the way to the left), it just trickles out and even shuts the water off if I turn it far enough.
Just yesterday, I took a compressor and blew air through the hot water connection off the water heater and left the delta faucet undone so the air would come out through there. The air did come out and there was no blockage. Could there be a problem with the hot water hole on the seating part (where the ball goes in) or with the spring possibly not fully functioning. It has been a challenge for the last 3-4 years. It is an older Delta faucet that has been in the house for the past 17 years since the house was built. There is no gauge to re-set the temperature on the fixture.
Can you recommend a solution that I might try or should I just call a plumber? Challenge is that the tub is a plastic (?) tub/shower enclosure and we would have to replace the whole thing if we cut into it to replace the faucet components.
Thank you for your advice.
Jim
505-710-4774.
Jim Maes
Greg says: Jim,
You are on the right track, is the vertical slot that the ball stem slides up and down in true vertical direction? does the valve have a slotted screwdriver stems in the center of a brass body the size of a nickel. If the hot side is partially turned off that is your problem. If no stops are built into the valve then a restriction could be in the pipe connecting to the valve on the hot side. Solder or something. Call me tomorrow and I will get some answers or reply here. 760-788-2889 Where can I buy the tool for removing slotted aerators? Pliers will not work for these particular type of anti-vandal aerators.I have tried my local plumbing suppliers with no luck.
Steve Bowen
Greg says: Different Mfgrs. use different keys, look at the mfgr. search parts. On your How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve video what was the model of the Delta shower valve you fixed
KC
Greg says: Check the Ohms on both elements 15 or 16 is good, Sometimes the hi limit gets out of cal. I normally change the stats and elements if the tank is over 6 yrs old. Ace Hardware sells Apco brand stats real good price. I watched your video on How to repair Delta Shower/Tub faucet. Very good. I am unable to remove the gaskets/springs as they are very, very old. Any advice? Keep doing videos, they are very clear and easy to follow. thanks
MR
Question:
I've got a dual element water heater. The thermostat reset button keeps tripping. When I reset it and let hot water build, it becomes way too hot. An obvious sign of an element being grounded, in my opinion. Problem is, when I test for a ground with my meter...there is none. I get resistance when I test the elements for it and no sign of a grounded element. I have power to both upper and lower thermostats. Everything seems to be fine. I thought maybe the thermostat wasn't turning the element(s) off for some reason so I manually turned the temp up on the top thermostat, heard everything engage and start heating, turned it down, heard it turn off and did the same thing for the lower. Both worked fine. I'm at a complete loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jason
Jason
I installed a dishwasher filter from waterinc.com. The installation was very easy and simple. Better yet, the results have been great. Our municipality has very hard water, but now our crystal and glassware are spot free and cleaner than they ever have been. I usually don't post comments, but this has been a very positive experience so I wanted to share the results.
tim kidder
Greg says: Tim,
Thanks for the comment, yes we found the dishwasher softener from water inc.to be very effective and easy to install. The video is real install not a rehearsed or redone one. Dear Romana,
Thank you very much for sharing the info. I think if we all share what we know, the world has more meaning and all will reach their goal sooner or later.
DanTheMan
Greg says: For sure, lead by example and make the world a better place. I work at this daily, I will never stop. I watched your video on replacing a delta shower valve which was very informative. However I am having a problem removing the metal cap which holds everything in place. I have tried tapping it but still no go (I have also tried WD40 and Vinegar to no avail). I am afraid if I give it too much force I will break it and god only knows how much it will cost to have a plumber fix it. Any advice?
JW
Greg says: Use heat to loosen it. You're a genius. I am going to try and duplicate it with a site called DIY Cleaning advice. I might even hit your jar with a buck or two.
Ken raddon
Greg says: Go for it, thanks! Thank you for such informative videos!Ê I am trying to reduce water pressure at the main (currently showing PSI 90!).ÊÊI found the regulator and it looks just like what's in your video EXCEPT there is a black plastic "collar" between the locking nut and bolt.Ê I could barely loosen the locking nut and only got a half turn on the bolt, which didn't do much to the pressure.Ê Any of the regulators I have seen on line or in the hardware stores don't have the collar.Ê My question is, can I cut it off and make the adjustments as shown in your video?ÊÊ Thanks!Ê
Chris
Greg says: The black collar is a limiter so that the regulator pressure can not be turned up past 80 psi. (at the regulator outlet). is your point your testing the pressure much in elevation above the regulator location? like 10, 20 or 30 ft. higher? If so yes removing the restrictor will allow you to exceed 80, therefore ending up with more than that at the low elevation of the reg. Another possibility is your gauge is not correct? Hello, thanks for the info...would you use teflon tape or pipe dope on a new installation for a circulating pump with a 3/4" threaded flange. I recently installed with teflon and 3 out of 4 of the fittings have a drip once in a while. Thanks for help
Greg says: Yes, but those flanges are hard to get tight, 2&1/2 threads is all that should show that are not screwed in.
I have low/no pressure. I use well water. I have replaced the water filter, checked/cleaned the contacts on the switch for the diaghram tank and tried toÊincrease/decreaseÊthe pressure but the low reading held firm. Any suggestions? I need to repair this asap, thanks JoeÊ
joseph slobodzian
Greg says: Check the power to pump? check the hose bib at the pressure tank check to see if a gate valve is stuck. Is the well drawn down? wells go dry every day...Take a picture of the system send it. I have low pressure in my house making my showers not greatest. What shower head do you recommend to make more pressure come out. Is something this good? http://www.oxygenics.com/Shower-Heads/Power-Series-Shower-Heads/PowerSpa-Fixed-Shower-Head.html
Or is this all hype and none of these products work. Thanks
JH
Hi Greg!
I used your site to figure out a few things with my plumbing, and really appreciate your service! I used your tutorial on unclogging an airgap for my dishwasher. I found a huge nasty chunk o' stuff in the very top of the airgap and removed it. Tried blowing with the paper towel tube, and didn't find any resistance. I was hoping my problem was fixed (original problem=dishwasher not draining)! I started my dishwasher and the water started overflowing through the airgap into the sink and also leaking under the sink. After hearing all that, would you have any advice on what might be going on with my dishwasher? I'd be happy to put a tip in that tip jar instead of calling out a plumber!!! :)
Thank you!
Julie
Julie
Greg says: Julie,
The drain tube from the Air Gap to the disposal or drain pipe is needed to be curved but not kinked to reach beginning to end. The tube needs to be falling down hill all the way, no dips or sags. I have used a bottle brush 18" long to go from the top of the Air Gap with the "cap" removed. The brush goes into the larger area not the smaller round hole, down to the drain connection. Sometimes I need to disconnect the 7/8" tub from its connection having the clamp and I find junk there pushing the brush up to and out top of gap. The flow of water drainage needs a free open round inside of the tube since the waste water is not forced down this tube by the pump, but falls only by gravity. Any resistance allows the Air Gap to squirt out the top.... A wet dry shop vac. will suck out anything except a kink in hose. Running water into drain hole of sink while vac. hose on Air Gap top will help rinse out slime build up on inner tube wall.
1. is the black 7/8" tube going from gap body to drain kinked? 2. can you send me a pix from your cell ph. of the underside of the sink where the tube is and the top of the Air Gap with the cap off? Greg,Ê thanks for the irrigation video showing the installation of the pressure regulator just downstream from the street valve.Ê I also try to use domestic plastic whenever possible as the import product is made of low grade resin.Ê In your future how-to's a list of the parts used would be very welcome.Ê BR, and best wishes - get some knee pads, watching your videos make my knees hurt!
ca. westberg
Greg says: I am with you on those knee pads, I now use them. We had our house built in 1982 by Wardcraft in Clay Center Ks and has
been a good home. The only problem we have had and several others have
had with their homes is the tub/shower in the master bathroom doesn't
put out good pressure at all. The
shower in the small bathroom works fine with lots of pressure and
volumn. From what I can tell, the copper pipes going up to both shower heads are
the same sizeÊ and we have the same head on it & have changed heads but it has never worked
right since the house was built new. Neither shower has a water saver either. It has a Delta tub/shower faucet like in your repair videos. Both my brothers have houses like this and both have the same low pressure showers in the main tub/shower in their houses too. Do you have any suggestions what I need to do?
Pat Ringler
Greg says: The Tub/shower valve is up stairs? if so the pressure will be 5 psi less. If the master bath is at the long end of pipe the friction loss thru the pipe will cause pressure loss. I have a solution. Pressure and flow are connected, yet different. I strongly recommend getting a High Efficiency Shower head using less volume thus retaining pressure. Several companies sell such heads. American Standard sells a couple as does Delta and Moen and Grohe, Niagara and others. The heads with only one or two spray options spray better than more options. Velocity of spray as low as 1/2 gallon per min. can strip skin off a body is the nozzle and pressure balance is correct. 2.5 GPM heads are not only poor performers, they waste water. The nozzle design is the trick. Niagara sells a head for $10 that will power wash your car! or your hair, if you have it. The newer heads will help. Your builder chose a Plumber that was the lowest bidder possibly... in turn the 1/2" pipe costing less than 3/4" was a choice, in which case the head is your best solution. Please keep me posted Greg,
Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.
What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flu
Rob
Greg,
Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.
What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flushed it again using the garden hose method.
While back flushing the pipe, the only visible substance that came out was a lot of dark rusty water. I'm guessing there was a lot of rust build up at either the faucet and shower pipe connection or inside the faucet itself. After all of that I re-lubricated the rubber seats and ball assembly and reassembled the faucet. To my great surprise the water flow to my shower head has returned to about 90%. I'm happy!
Thank you so much for your help and your great videos! I'll leave a tip.
Rob
Rob
Greg,
I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.
Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.
After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve
Rob
Greg says: Blow the debris out with a garden hose attached to the shower head arm using a hose thread X pipe thread adapter. Or compressed air. Greg,
I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.
Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.
After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve and water flowed freely (all over the place). It appears that the pipe from the faucet to the shower head is clogged. With the faucet disassembled I tried blowing on the shower pipe and I could not blow freely.
Is it possible that the pipe from my faucet to my shower head is clogged and that my tapping on the dome caused it to clog even more? Shouldn't I be able to blow air freely down the pipe that leads from the shower head to the disassembled faucet?
Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
Thanks for your help!
Rob
Rob
Greg says: Rob,
Take a garden hose from before house shut off run into shower head arm with an adapter from hose thread to female pipe thread. This will blow back out the blockage.... assuming a blockage is the problem. Air will work almost as well.
Hi Greg...I have a client that has leaking shower valves..she sent me a picture of one of them. Single handle control...rotating handle, fixed not levered. She does not see a manufacturer name...ie Delta or Moen etc. I know this is a long shot..but hoping to identify the manufacturer and pick up parts before showing up for the repairs. Any sites that you know of where I can reference a catalog of pictures to possibly identify the brand and parts needed?
By the Way...I just found your videos on YouTube...great stuff!
Matt Russell
50 year old single floor ranch w crawl space, 2 issues:
1. when running water to tub, cannot get the shower head to stop water coming out, even though I have pulled the tub faucet stopper up to stop the shower. Any solution where I do not have to tear up the above tub tiled wall?
2. 4" Cast Iron drain pipe extends 18" outside my concrete block foundation, buried 1 foot down. Previous plumber busted a hole in the top of the cast iron pipe that extends outside the foundation, but buried 1 foot down. I bet they charged $200 to bust that stupid cleanout hole. PVC piping to the street sewer connection is attached at a PVC elbow to the cast iron drain pipe. How the heck can I get a sealed drain system? Roots have made a mess in the busted hole. The PVC can't be a sealed connection, I bet it's just slid onto the cast iron drain.
What should I use to connect and seal the PVC to the cast iron, or do I have to create some sort of cleanout? What connections to keep roots out?
blackxacto
Hi Greg,
I stumbled upon your youTube video while searching for DIY help with a shower spigot and knobs. Your videos are great and I watched several - thanks for providing such a helpful site.
My question involves the shower. We have a 30 year old Gerber three knob tub spigot that was leaking. I replaced all three with a 'universal' kit from a local home supply store. The hot/cold handles worked fine but the diverter knob did not send the water up to the shower head. I went to the local plumbing store after scratching my head and they suggested I use Gerber brand parts (as you recommend as well) due to small size changes etc. used in universal parts. So I bought the Gerber diverter and yes, it worked to send the water up to the head. However, the water pressure dropped approximately by half or 2/3 so much so that we couldn't take a shower. So I went back to the plumbing store and they suggested I also replace the two hot/cold handles with Gerber brand. I did that, and although it seems a bit better, it still is not back to the original pressure - even before the leaks! No one seems to have any other ideas for me. We're contemplating calling a plumber, but wonder if it is just something simple we're overlooking? Sure would appreciate any help. :-)Ê Thank you for your thoughts.
Kathy
Kathy
Greg says: Kathy,
A couple things, one, a pice of debris could be in line to head, is spout as slow as head? if not pull head measure volume from shower arm w/o head on it compared to spout. Second possibility, If the stems are screwed in to valve body too far by not having the thick washers on stem threads, the stem when opened all the way is not as far open as it was before, or as far as they can. Same goes for the diverter, the position of the stem in relation to the passages in valve body can be a flow volume issue. Another is if the valve body has shut off stops on the inlets to valve, they can be partially closed as well as if a screen exists in valve body to protect the valve, this screen could be dirty. Check the pressure to your house as well this could have had debris move around in the repair process and that debris could be in a screen in a pressure regulator if you have one. Do you have a pressure regulator? do you know your pressure? have you removed your shower head? Did you change the seats when you replaced your stems? are the stem washers thicker than original ones?... The air gap for my dishwasher leaks water out of it. (new problem just started today) I checked the hose and it is clear.Ê I even removed it and can blow air threw it.Ê I checked where the hose connects to the drain and it is clear.Ê The water comes from the dishwasher to the air gap but some comes out and some goes down the hose and down the drain.Ê Any idea what could be wrong? Ê Ê
mark
Greg says: Is there a kink in the larger hose? is there a sag in the hose from the gap to the drain pipe. Does the chrome cap lift off and you can see the plastic gap body and the top of it is round? or is it got two flat sides?
Greg. Thanks a lot for the videos. They are extremely helpful.
IÊhave a watts premier under-the-sink filter system. The problem is that water comes out from a hole at the back of the faucet. I've tried to clean up the hose, cut the hose shorter so that there is a slope from the faucet to the tank. but nothing works. What could be the problem and how can i fix it?
Thanks and take care.
Michael
Greg says: Hole in what faucet ?, the kitchen faucet of a faucet for a RO water treatment system using an air gap in spigot that is leaking? Picture? Hi Greg,
I came across your youtube channelÊwhile trying to figure out a plumbing issue. We have owned our first home for two years. Just recently we have had a problem with the bathtub making a noise when the toliet flushes. At leastÊit wasnt every flush but now it seems more frequent. This has been going on for about a week.ÊIt does not seem like any fluid is backing up into the tub, just the noise. I have been reading a lot of articles on the internet such as bubbles mean clog and gurgle means vent pipe. I do not know the difference. It just sound like the toliet flushing in my tub drain. We are so new to homeownership that we do not know where to start. Please Help!! Thank you.
SY
Greg says: Drain waste and vent is the name of our waste pipe system, I need a lot more info. we could talk on phone. 760-788-2889.
Generally speaking I would say you need your building drain snaked. Not the tub, but the main. vent trouble could do this, but my bet is drain. Partial blockage causes water to back up causing your lowest fixture (the tub) to have water flowing back into it from down stream. I am planning on letting my little brother move into the trailer that is in my backyard. I need to figure out how to send waste from the trailer to my septic tank. How would I need to get started with this task?
I would also need to figure out how to get water to the trailer.
Thanks for your help Greg.
Peterson
Greg says: Peterson,
After I relive myself of Code preaching and support (and I do support Code), I will give you a functional direction. Then I hope to remind you Code and safety are paramount to Plumbers and People. First off the point of waste for the building is needed to be known. Is the place on Sewer or a Septic System. the house should have a clean out on front and back of the house. Possible one side. The trailer needs to be practically located so this is a gravity fall from trailer outlet to the existing outlet. If this is not the case a sewer ejector is an option. Sewer ejectors are like a trash can buried in ground having an ejector pump at the bottom. This would be buried at trailer and the discharge of the ejector pump be piped in ground up hill or flat to reach the point of connection to existing building sewer. This pipe would be 2" diameter Drain Waste and Vent Pipe. If you call me or send me pictures I will assist you further.
The fresh water supply is fairly easy, pressure hose sold at RV supply stores for this connection. Screw hose to a hose bib, run hose to trailer, and screw into the trailer hose inlet that will be female hose thread ready and waiting. RV water piping is usually in need of lower pressures this is done with a regulator from the RV store bought with the hose. Not to different from how electricity is done but the RV store will have what is needed.
Heating is often done with LPG, please use caution there.
Hi Greg,
I have viewed your videos and viewed your website about water pressures but my problem is odd. If I put a gauge on a faucet, my static pressure is about 60 psi. WhenÊI turn on an additional faucet, the pressure drops to about 30 and fluctuates back and forth between 30 and 60 every second. IÊhave to remove my water heater to get to my regulator to replace it, so I would really like to pin point the problem. My house is anout 12 yrs. old. ÊAny help would be greatly appreciated.
Allan Hoover
Greg says: Your regulator does not belong behind the water heater, move something around. What is street pressure, do you have a fire sprinkler system? We need to talk maybe. 760 788-28898 Thanks for the help Greg.Ê Regards, Joe
Joseph Lombardo
Greg says: My pleasure. My water heater has been leaking outside the house from the overflow tube that sticks out next to our AC units and the pilot light keeps going out.Ê Is this something that sounds like it can be fixed, or do I need to go out and buy a new water heater?
Ê
DOL
Greg says: Deyla, if you replaced the tank the same symptoms would still exist. You have high pressure problems and that is blowing the extra preuuure out the discharge. Tank is also leaking inside so it is bad as well, you could call me and I can explain to you. I will sell you nothing because my collar bone is broken and I can not work. You need a pressure regulator, and expansion tank and a new water heater . (less than $1500) more than $1000. HI Greg,
I put a pur faucet filter on my kitchen faucet. I have to take out the regular aerator and putthe connector in order to put the filtr set. My problem is now i want to put my regular aerator back and i have trouble take the connecor out it seems to be stuck on the faucet. Is there way to make it lose without hurting the faucet?
Any help would be very appreicated.
Thanks
Zoe
zoe
Thank you for your excellent videos.Ê They are very informative and useful for us DIYers.Ê I followed your instructions yesterday in changing out the valve in my Moen shower.Ê Today I plan to purchase a closet auger for future use at home and my rentals.Ê I wish I would have watched your closet auger video yesterday before I hired a rotorooter company to unclog a slow draining toilet at one of my rentals!Ê Just paper, not a five pound root like you found in another of your videos.Ê My other question is regarding the Laing Under Sink Recirculation pump for hot water.Ê Which model did you use?Ê I want to make sure I buy the right one.Ê I'm tired of wasting 5 to 6 gallons of water before it finally gets hot.Ê Thank you again for all your terrific, easy-to-follow videos.Ê Keep us the great job!
Helen
Greg says: Helen,
I used a Laing because I had one in stock, I recommend using a Demand ACT Metlund unit. Go online to find best price. Use the correct one for your application. If you have power available at far fixture and no recirc pipe (third pipe) just select that model from the description provided at the purchase point. All different products are made with options like what size pipe, etc.
Greg Your video just guided me through replacing a Moen shower valve. I cannot thank you enough! This will certainly impress the husband!
Jennifer S
Greg says: Jennifer,
Men do not ask of follow directions well, you are wonderful, thanks. Virtual Plumbing is the new way, welcome to my dream. Tell other ladies where they can get this good info. and my Google Ads will get clicked on so they pay me and you do not have to.
OXOXOXOX Hi Greg:
Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.
Thanks in advance for your kind help!
dianchi2000
Greg says: Just use the description old style Delta Shower valve. The OEM kits with the stainless steel ball, springs, and rubber cups, bonnet and a bit of silicone grease. The springs needed are the conical ones . and the short rubber cups not the deeper ones that use the longer springs. Hi Greg:
Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.
Thanks in advance for your kind help!
dianchi2000
Greg says: The one in the video is "The old series from the 60's thru 80's Ball style. use the Stainless Steel Ball and only OEM Parts.
Too many model #'s existed that used the "Only" Delta ball kit for a shower, the other was for a Kitchen sink. Thanks for your hose bib replacement video! It was clear and provided enough information for me and my boyfriend to swap out our old leaking one :) Yay DIY! Clicked on a bunch of your ads too btw!
Leanne
Greg says: You are way cool, I am glad we were able to be clear on the task, so many videos are vague and leave stuff out.
Thanks for watching, tell your friends on Face book.... everyone needs Plumbing...
Greg Draining small swamp in front of house - with photo
Hi there!
I'm looking for a DIY solution to eliminate this swamp that forms on the footpath outside our house up to a week after rain.
Here is a diagram photo of the situation...
https://skitch.com/mhoward/egagg/iphoto
An existing pipeline runs under a tree and has probably been crushed by the roots.
If I run a new pipe around the tree it may not fix the swampy area to the side. Is their a DIY solution that will drain that swamp as well?
I am a novice with regard to drainage solutions, but I am keen to fix it if their is a good solution.
Thanks for your consideration.
- Martin
martin
Hi Greg, your video on how to replace the posi-temp cart was great. I have 2 showers in my home that are not used that much since they are spare rooms. I went to home depot and they sold me the Danco replacemnet part, well after the install now the shower heads drop all the time and also I foudn out that home depot has discontinued selling that part so I called Moen and they are sending me 2 free cartridges at no cost so I hope it was just bad parts. A local plumber told me if the cart dont work you need a new valve and that is more then i expected to do and spend. Also the house was built in 2004 and I noticed that behind the shower handle plate there is a water shut off screw for the hot and cold so I guess I can shut the water off there instead of the whole house. What would cause a new cartridge to make it drip. I assume the part is bad or the valve has debris and water is slowly going pass the cartridge???? Any suggestions?
Jamie Allison
Greg says: OEM Cartridge is needed. What is your water pressure? If over 80 psi you need a pressure regulator. i viewed the air gap video for dishwashers and in 7 minutes I learned how to fix the draining of my dishwasher into my sink. Thanks for the detailed video that was easy to understand for a novice like me. I fixed it. Yippee!!!
CCC
Greg says: Knowledge is simple if known. Thanks for watching My husband and I are considering the purchase of a home that has recently had some of it's copper pipes replaced. The home does not yet have an acid filtration system. Of concern to us is that the part of the well that protrudes out of the ground with the cap on it is corroding. It has five holes in it to allow water to leave the well as it has an overabundance of water supply and needs to be released from the well. There is pressurized water releasing from these holes and the metal around them is rusty and corroded looking. This is a wonderful that we would love to purchase but we are concerned about the well and water content. The owner admits to high acid in the water and the need for a filtration system. The realtor has said that the water releasing from the well is not an issue as it is just caused by the excess of water supply. Any thoughts? What kind of expense is involved with fixing that corroded area at the top of the well pipe coming out of the ground. Thank you for any information you can offer.
Lori Sutton
Greg says: The well cap is made of Iron and is normal to rust. Plastic well heads might be available but they would not be as strong and sun can degrade the plastic. A well man is your person on this. Acidic water is treated by a neutralizer that can be installed at the well equipment location or at house. If you like take a picture and send it to me. Quality water treatment systems are not easy to get installed, most installs are down right stupid. I recommend a shed around this equipment. Water coming out of well heads is common in locations and only needs dealing with correctly. Local well guy again is your best bet, if you can find one who gives a dam, and is educated. Too often the education ends at just enough to get the license, and write an invoice. I noticed in the video when you replace the Moen 1222B cartridge that you make no mention of using the silicone grease. Do you suggest not using the grease? Thanks for the great tutorial. I'll wait to hear about the silicone grease before I begin the project.
Rick Bonneau
Greg says: The cartridge comes with some on it. Yes I love silicone grease I have used it for decades. Grease it up and stick it in.. Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Both are very good units. Installation and how it fits the building is far more important than anything else compared here. Just the distance and pipe size alone will by far out weigh the differences. How often used vs a tank type is another major difference. Issues of cost are totally different than reliability or temperature controllability. Once you have a tank full of 120 deg. water it is hard to go to 140 deg. at a seconds notice. Tankless offer that. Remote controls offer that. Tankless units cost a lot more money to buy and if vent is used 10 times more for venting. Tank Types are not wall mount and outdoor approved Tankless are. Noritz and Rianni offer very close performance compared to Tank type, but the above is to cite some of the dynamic aspects of hot water. Location and the other issues is not important in a static comparison I point out true dynamics of a building. Not to mention user behavior ! I wont even go there. Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Larry, you are the most generous tipper this yr.! thank you. Tankless water heaters are sometimes thankless. They need proper building lay out to be most applicable. The Rinnai is a very great unit and both those brands are changing design and models several times a yr. I just got an up grade class offered to me today. Either Mfgr. is great if the application is correct. too many retro fit applications are not good for Tankless. This is why Rinnai just merged with a Tank Type Mfgr. to have an option. Tankless need yearly maintenance and different vent system and larger Gas Pipe to supply gas to a more than ten fold demand on gas load. The endless supply of hot water can be done with Hybrid or regular tank types. AO Smith makes a great hybrid called Vertex Ed Baggley the actor is the spokes person for them and if you like him you might give him an ear. Tankless have an advantage in that they can be outdoor mounted on the garage wall and need no venting in such case you are closer to being pre disposed to a Tankless application. All you would need is a gas line to the unit that is big enough. Is the Gas service near that location? if so good choice. either brand. At this point I am more impressed with Rinnai They have a fully modulating gas valve and will warranty if a circ. pump is used as long as the circ. pump is demand actuated and not on a timer setting only. Andy Bellow is a Tankless only installer and goes by the name Tankless water heaters or something like that, just use his name with tankless and you will get the right guy. get quote from both Black Mountain and Andy Bello ? I have Solar Thermal , its free power. Web site and videos areÊexcellent! I couldn't find a topic similar to my problem. I have a well and have had acidic water levels for ..... years. A great plumber I knew warned me about deterioration of my copper pipes over the years but due to $$ or ignorance, I put it off. Well........ I have had a few pinhole leaks and have been replacing my copper pipes little by little with most leaks being after the water heater. I have replaced most of my 3/4" piping with pvc and was wondering if there is any benefit to replacing the rest of my plumbing/house all with 3/4" pvc pipe?Ê
Steve Moore
Greg says: Where do you live? CPVC is needed for Hot water, PVC for cold. Careful to stop back flow into cold from hot side. PEX is also a good choice. How it is installed is more important than the pipe. You could always call me.. 760 788-2889 Help! After watching your extremely helpful video on using a closet auger, we bought one to use on our toilet, which is prone to flushing issues.
I find it EXTREMELY difficult getting the auger cable around the sharp curve in the toilet. I think I've gotten it around the curve three times out of 75 tries on the first two clogs I cleared. Now the toilet is backed up again, and I'm not any closer to getting the hang of the closet auger. I turn the handle as I press the rod down. It hits that sharp curve and stops going down. As I continue to turn the handle, it just puts coiling tension on the cable so it snaps back when I stop turning. I haven't had enough successes to figure out what I've done differently the few times the auger HAS made it around the curve. HELP?!?!
(FYI, pre-closer auger we used to plunge away most of our toilet problems, then sometimes that wouldn't work and we'd call out the plumber to get that brown water down... At that point, the toilet would work great for a while, then it would happen again. It also frequently goes into a mode where it hesitates, but then everything successfully goes down. We don't use excessive amounts of TP. We don't flush anything other than body waste and TP. The toilet has long standing issues since before we moved in.)
Suggestions? Please? Pretty Please?
Alexandra
Greg says: You might need a new toilet. ones exist that actually work! You might have an object trapped in the passageway. What is the date inside the tank on the wall? If it is a toilet from the 90's it is most likely bad. (they are low flow and or ultra low flow) the new ones are HET or Hi efficiency design and some of these work exceedingly well! as in do not block up at all! If you pull your bowl up from the floor and find the object and can get it out and want to keep what you have , you can re install. If you cannot find ro get out your problem, replace it with one that I recommend. Most Toto Toilets are great, the Drake unit is fantastic and cheap too. Niagra makes one even cheaper but it is not as pretty for the Girls. Most units having a 3" flapper flush valve are best. some 3" units are a good flush but impossible to repair when needed. (no flapper). My question involves several parts of our plumbing.
1) Our home came with the water heater in the attic 5 years ago. There isn't room for one in our 1 level home.
2) The overflow for our AC and the drain pan for the HW heater go into the vanity sink in the bathroom.
3) The combined drain for the vanity and the toilet next to it are obviously connected since I discovered that the level in the toilet is determined by the level of the trap in the vanity. We seem to have a constant problem with mold in the toilet, even though we clean it once a week.
The question is - Do these seem like problems to you, or is it just me?
Greg says: Code does not allow the Pressure Relief line of a Water Heater to be run into the pan. The Pan can run to the lav. as can the condensate line from the AC. The AC needs a secondary line in addition to primary at lav. trap inlet.
The Building Drain has a blockage if the Lav water can be seen affecting the Toilet. Water Heaters in Attics Suck.
The mold issue I have seen before, the only thing to do is replace the toilet once that black mold gets there. I have tried to use acid and everything else. thanks so much for the step be step instructions they made all the difference. you saved me almost a hundred dollars and thats a lot to me. thanks again really usefull stuff.
kevin
Greg says: Plumbers are better than Lawyers. We really care. we actually talk in a language anyone can understand. That is my intention, I am glad to help. You have got to be kidding with the production of this video. THE MUSIC COMPLETELY OBSCURES THE NARRATIVE! I am a producer, and this is beyond amateurish. I just wanted to know which way to turn the aerator to get it off. Fortunately, I could see to turn it to the right from the visual, which was the opposite of what I was doing. Could I possibly be the only one who has ever pointed this out?
Greg says: Thanks for your feedback. Our testing indicated that the narration was easily heard. However, we will definitely take your feedback into consideration on future videos to be sure the narration is not obscuring the narration. very nice blog that provides new thing for me .Your blog provided us beneficial information to work on.
San Jose Plumbing
Greg says: Did you actually read the Blogs? I am a bit repetitive in my theme, but still from my perspective I feel the points are needed to be made. The varying angles I write from are possibly an attempt to "touch a nerve" with a wide range of people and mind sets.
Greg i have recently moved to the bush where we have a instant gas hot water service, an old vulcan. it is working but the temperature is a bit up and down. the buttons and knobs dont have any symbols on them as time has eroded them. i was wondering how i can find out what they are and what the slide control is.
please i need advice. can send photo if it helps.
thank you
mel
mel cleine
Greg says: Mel
One knob will be for on, off, pilot. other will be a temperature adj. Google search and fing users manual. the steel Name Plate on it will have correct search info. I am not familiar with Vulcan units.
Greg,
I've just moved into a 2003 condo, the bathtub/shower has a Moen mixer, but it comes out hot first and then cold. After watching your video I removed the handle, adapter, and limiter so that I could see the cartridge. The H-C is at the top,Êso IÊtried rotating the shaft 180, but that leaves the water running, until I get right around - 360. What did I miss?
Merry Christmas,
Bob
Ê
Ê
Bob
Greg says: Bob,
OEM cartridge is important, Moen in on the body of the Cart?, Also the pipes could be reversed in wall causing you to put H&C on the bottom and se set the cart. If you run the valve till hot then feel the pipes inside the wall, you will see if the hot is on left or not!
Greg Greg:
I really appreciate your website and tutorial on replacing the Moen Posi-Temp cartridge.Ê It would be great it you added or touched on possible complications or common things that may go wrong.Ê However, your videos and online tutorials were extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to tackle this project.
Thanks again.
Travis
Greg says: When anyone, a Plumber or Homeowner turns off Water Main to a building, things change. While the Water is off, the pipe drains, only to refill when Water is turned back on. Water quickly filling a pipe disturbs debris and Biofilm, this turbulence and debris is a common cause of trouble. How old is the Pressure Regulator? What is street side of the Regulator pressure? Do you have a Thermal Expansion Tank? What is the after side of the regulator? as low as 45 to 55 psi is good, as hi as 65 to 75 is max. First thing need is facts, next, decision, then fix, if needed.
Great idea, we could do a second video for every video listing "The rest of the story" We try to keep videos short for those who have no desire to start a new career in Plumbing, and get lucky with the minimum difficulty in the task. Greg,
I have spent hours on your website and I found the information you produce is great. Lots of people produce plumbing tips, your site is a little different. If you would like to do a guest blog post or videos on our plumbing marketing site, http://www.growplumbing.com , we would love to have you.
Hi Greg, My water pressure increase after new water heater replaced, special in the shower faucet, the water flow is too strong, I am scare with that strong flow, I like lower water flow better when I taking shower... I don't know what to do to fix the problem myself, should I need a water pressure regulator to fix the water pressure ?
But, why this plumber created the problem and can't fix the problem .
Please advice Thanks Christine
Christine Li
OH NO! Something went wrong...
Loved Love Love the How to repair a delta tub/shower valve video. everything went great and everything is on BUT BUT BUT there is now a leak at the faucet. what did i miss?
Please help! I dont know if its ok to shower with it leaking at the valve.
Tiffany
Greg says: Do you mean the same faucet is dripping? did you tighten the dome nut tight enough? do you mean the spout is dripping? I need more info.
Instsalled new faucet after kithchen remodel.Ê Over time we have lost a great amount of the original pressure.Ê Do you have any suggestions for me?
Wallace
Greg says: Question, did you use the stops to shut off water before changing? or did you shut off the whole house? The stop could have crumbled up and plugged the inlet to the faucet. The other is the scren on the faucet spout, have you cleaned it?. What kink of Kit faucet is it? the made in China home ctr. faucets with American names are not the best, they can have plastic lining inside that de laminates and plugs up the inside of faucet. The plastic lining is to comply with the cheap brass having lead in it from leaching out. There is a law against that now. If you have a pull out head, it is in the vacuum breaker that the blockage could be. You mention in one of your videos that a static water pressure of 80 psi is ok and anything more would need a pressure regulator. You don't mention the fact that water pressure tends to increase late at night though. I have that situation, my water pressure is 80 but it will hit 100 in the night, when no one is using it. If I have copper pipes, would I need to install a pressure regulator? Or would install it increase the life of my pipes at all? Thanks for the help and I love your videos!
Pedro
Greg says: Very important, issue, yes you need a pressure regulator and a thermal expansion tank.
Well about two months ago my youngest son got one of those "bouncy" balls stuck in our bathroom drain and we used one of those plumber tools that you pump up to build air in the chamber and then pull the trigger to blow the air pressure down the drain and I believe it worked because it began draining again.... Well last night my oldest son got sick with a stomach virus and the closest place he could get to to throw up was the same tub. I tried using the same device with that and it didnt work i also tried using a snake and was unsuccessful as well as a plunger..... also now when we used the sink in the same bathroom the water will back up into the tub! I am willing to try ANYTHING to get this solved without having to call a plumber, please any advise you have please tell me!
PLEASE HELP!!!
B.G.
Greg, you have a great webiste. Thanks for much for the information as I am learning a lot from you. I do have a question. I have a basement and the toilet down there is stopping up and I am also having some water back up into the tub. From what I have learned from your videos it sounds like I may have a main drain blockage. Is renting a rooter tool from home depot a good way to clear this? The clean out is right outside of the basement door so it should be a fairly short and straight shot to the toilet. Also, I out some Rid-Ex in a toilet and flushed it per the instructions. Dont know if it is coincidental but I have had 3 toilets stop up since doing it. Do you recommend using Rid-Ex?
Thanks, Tommy
Tommy B
Hello Greg,
I recently bought a house and in one shower I have a Mix-It valve. I hardly get any water pressure in the tub and I can barely get any cold water. It's either warm or very hot water that comes out. I replaced the Mix-It vale thinking it was bad and it didn't fix the problem. I also have two other plumbing questions, but I'll save those for later! Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Frank Larreta
Greg says: Frank,
To be frank, you need to change out the Mix-it Valve, Mixits are not good valves. When getting a new valve get one with "Check stops" Wolverine Brass makes a great Balance Valve having check stops and that can come with a large Escutcheon flange face plate to cover the large hole needed to be put in Shower Wall when installing a new valve. Moen also makes a repair Trim Plate too. Hello Greg,
Yesterday I replaced the rubber cups that are on my delta shower and today I saw your video http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml. My problem is with the water temperature, once I send the water from the tub spout to the shower head it becomes difficult to control. If the temp is good on the tub spout the temp will radically change to scolding hot on the shower head and then I need to very-very-very slowly move the handle or I will either get cold or hot. It's quite a dance trying to shower! :)
So I was told by a handy man that the rubber cups probably needed changing, so I went to home depot and bought the delta labeled replacement. The only difference is that the springs on the hd are a tad bit longer and not 'cone' shaped like the original ones. They fit fine and I put everything back together. Now the shower handle moves much smoother (it doesnt fall down to the off position) but I still have temperature problems.
The condo I live in was built in the late 60's and I assume this delta shower doesnt have the scolding feature that I've read about and that's why I might be confusing the water temp issue as a 'problem' and maybe that's just how showers used to work in the past?!?!?!?
What can by the source of my problem?
Thanks again and great video.
Ceez
Greg says: Ceez
You have a mixing of water from a fixture or a re-circ line that does not have a working check valve. Thanks for the Pictures you sent me, they confirm it is a Delta. Try shutting of the closest single handle faucet supply tubes to identify which fixture is allowing cold into hot side thru the single handle faucet. I also suspect the re circ line if you have one. The valve you have does not have anti scald feature. So glad I found this site; a life saver! Plus you saved me from tearing the copper tubes in my shower out of the wall!!
CJ Kern
Greg says: Glad to help! a tip jar exists on my site,tips allow us to make a little to offset web expenses! PayPal is safe and cheap! OMG!!! GREG!! I am so happy to find this site. I'm a single Mom, professional working woman who has no time to entertain plumbers all hours of the day! LOL! Sooo... when I had the first toilet clog I bought that cheapo toilet auger, it sat for weeks in the bathroom and then I finally got the nerve to use it. This is what happens when you have 3 toilets in the house. Then, the second one clogged. Well, out of desperation and fear for the one lone toilet that was still operational, I had to bite the bullet and try the auger. Waited till darling daughter was fast asleep, because I did not need "that" kind of helper. Guess what? It worked.... VOILAAAAA!!! And that was BEFORE I found your toilet auger procedure video on YouTube! So then I got to watching, and thinking, and learning a lot more than I ever wanted to know about my three wimpy-flusher toilets. Not quite sure if I have the right know-how, but I am going to make a point of exploring the innards of said toilets and see if I can't remedy this problem. I don't mind the auger, but hey, these toilets ALL could flush better!! Next -- the garbage disposal section. Yep, I'm on a roll!! Just tonight, you have saved me a lot of worry and I have saved myself a huge bill from the plumber who WAS supposed to come tomorrow!! Signed, SuperMommy :)
Jen
Well we were just minutes away from calling a plumber because we could not figure out why our dishwasher was not draining when my husband came across your site and watched your video on cleaning the air gap. My husband being the brains and me the brawn:) I took it apart just as you directed and found a clump of sunflower seeds stuck in the top. Thanks to you we are up and running again in less then 2 minutes. Thank you so much. You totally rock!!!
With great appreciation,
The Brains and Brawn Family:)
Susan Molina
Hired a big known plumbing company clear a drain. The shower in 2nd floor bathroom backed up and black goop came up the drain of the tub in the bathroom on the other side of the shared wall. The plumber tried to rod for about 45 minutes (after a flat rate of $594!!!!) and couldnt then said he had to take a look at the plumbing under the tub, which (unexpected by me) cost another $415 to do. Billing practices are questionable because after viewing with flashlight said he would have to rod through the expose plumbing and would update with up to date plumbing where they opened the piping...at another $1525 amount to be done another day. A friend said it sounded unreasonable and so referred to their plumber. He came in and through a linen closet in bathroom appeared to drill a hole...seems like the vent line and rodded then closed the hole with electrical tape. I didnt realize this was not acceptable practice until I started checking into it...but it did unclog the drain and clost $155...so less then the other company. In any event...seems I dealt witha theif and then a jury rigger(who by the way is a+ rated with bbb and angies list)....what is the safest best way to take care of that hole....should I call the 2nd plumber back to ask him about the safety of it?
lesann
Greg says: Well a "Flat Rate " usually means it is done complete and warrantied. So you did not pay right?, same on the other price.
Cutting thru a wall and drilling the vent to clear a drain is a smart method. He should have just put a tee in the vent and called it a clean out install and clearing...
Sewer gas is an issue with tape so either put in a clean out or use approved rubber and clamps that do not meet code. Is the hole in the vent above the flood rim of the tub? if so water damage is not an issue. $550 sounds like a fair price for the whole job done right with an access panel to the clean out. I bought a condo about 9 months ago. The building my condo is in, is a factory that was built in 1900 and converted to condo's in the 80s, everything here is a little lumpy-bumpy and very outdated but workable. So I was putting off upgrading my bathroom, until i noticed one day a few weeks ago that the sides of my bathroom vanity were waterlogged and had begun to swell up and was pretty moldy inside.
Since I'm a new homeowner and on a budget, I decided to replace the vanity cabinet (which included a sink, bought tools to do the removal / installation, and then I splurged on a nice price-phister faucet. When I tore out the vanity, I quickly realized I was into this for a lot more than just a cabinet a few tools. The linoleum was rotten and moldy beneath it, and the drywall had become wet and crumbling. I'm into this project for nearly double what my budget was.
What would be the best DIY solution to connect the new sink to the old copper wall pipe, that does not involve a plumber, or some lousy piece of rubber that may leak again in a few months?
Thanks
Westy1983
Greg says: You do not need anything except a pair of flexible supply tubes for hot and cold water, and a plastic slip joint p-trap to hook up the waste water. $10 will do it. Thank you so much for your videos. They have helped me to do a few home plumbing projects. I like your educational style and demeanor. You really are the best. I can not thank you enough for what you do.
Joe H
Greg,
I have broken vacuum protectors on my outside hose bibs. I called my usual plumber to replace them . He gingerly removed one with a hacksaw to reveal a hose bib with a 1" male pipe thread!!!. he and I are stumped. I tried a !" fpt to 3/4" fpt reducer but it wont thread on, so Im not really sure that the hose bib thread is pipe thread (its definately not hose thread--too many turns per inch) Im stumped . Have you ever seen this before? Is there any recourse besides just replacing the hose bibs??
bob
Greg says: No fixing those bastards, Need to replace the hose bib. Best is use a real hosebib, and retro fit a hose thread vacuum breaker and do not lock the breaker on to the outlet of the hose bib. If the hose bib was soldered on to a pipe instead of threaded to a nipple, solder on an adapter and thread on a bib. I have a question about general practice and code. A plastic two part trap is generally oriented pointing straight back from the basin or tub. Is there any objection to orienting it to either side and then the second section back? This will have the outlet a few inches to the side but can be adjusted to point at the down-pipe. At all times the water seal is in the same horizontal position as when the fittings point in a straight line. This is in case of limited space between the appliance and the drain down-pipe. But is this an accepted practice?
Richard Davis
Greg says: I hope you get my response in e mail...in short, yes.
Dear Greg:
My mother and I am sending you a huge thanks. Our toilet was clogged since last night 4/17/11. Of course I jumped online to find solutions since our plunger wasn't working. Your demonstration of using the Closet Auger was informative and thorough. My mother got a Auger for $31.00 at Home Depot and in maybe five minutes of work and after her viewing of your video we are rescued! Seriously Amen.
Honestly it is sometimes really moving how you're in trouble, without much money maybe even, and you get on the internet and find someone so kind as you to give a reaching hand out to people free of charge. My mother and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts! sorry this is so long.
The best way to repay you at the moment is to suggest you get some advertisements on your You Tube channel to bring in some cash and also here on your website. I'd gladly click on an ad to support bringing revenue to you. I will also be blasting your website to my 700+ followers on twitter (a monster marketing force when utilized properly) and also to friends on Facebook.
From New Jersey, my mother and I send our biggest thanks to you. Keep up those wonderfully thorough and comprehensive videos.
(Sorry for the long letter) - Lastly we have trouble with our plunger because our toilet is actually newer and the hole the plunger goes over is not circular. I think it would be great if a video were out to address suggestions for a situation like that with these newer toilets. If you decide to make a video on this. Thanks so much - either way!
In kind appreciation
G. Brooks
I would like to know what a backup drain is about, to keep my basement from floding.
MAJ
Greg says: I am not familiar with the term "Back up Drain" , I am experienced in "Duplex" pumps. I assume your basement is below grade? if so you don't have a drain, you have a sump ejector. A duplex system is a second alternating pump with a controller and an alarm. This is a standard packaged product. Battery backup systems are not expensive and work well. What is needed is the elevation of the lift from bottom of basement and the discharge point. how many feet of pipe total travel and the volume of water that might be needed to pumped. i need help !
i have a symmons 700 temp control mixing valve and im trying to set my water temp to 115 but it continues to climb to 130 sometimes and the mixing valve is new but cant seem to get it set just right got any ideas ? thanks
sam dunaway
Greg says: Do you have a circulation pump on the hot loop? if so it is pushing hot water past mixing valve Hi Greg,
Thank u so much for posting your how to change a Moen shower cartridge on u -tube. You really nailed the exact steps that I needed to complete the job for less than $75 and in less than 45 minutes. Glad to have found you.
Buffalo Bill
John T
Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.
Greg Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.
That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation. I'm in Phonenix and am thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: Steve
Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter.
The plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you? Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: John
The Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it. Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use. For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
Greg--
I just replaced a Moen 1222 cartridge (received from Moen) in my shower, thanks to your very thorough YouTube video. I used a Danco Core Puller to remove the old cartridge. All went smoothly except for one situation that required some modification to the new cartridge. When I tried to reinsert the retaining clip I found that the plastic collar on the new cartridge did not seat far enough and did not leave room for the clip to slide in. I removed and reinserted the cartridge repeatedly, twisting and turning it and carefully tapping on it using the plastic removal tool as a buffer. It still would not seat fully. So then, using an emery board, I filed some meat off each side of the plastic collar. I also tapered the ends of the clip with a grinding wheel. These modifications did the trick and the clip went in. The faucet is now working perfectly. If you redo your video you might want to mention the possibility of this problem happening. Thanks for your help.
Stan Brady
Greg says: Stan, Likely there was a piece of rubber or debris at the end of the hole where the cartridge goes in. Ive done hundreds of this valve cartridge replacements and about 1 in 20 there is this issue. I tell people to look into the area with a light or as the instructions with the cartridge say, flush out the body of the the valve then insert the cartridge. Moen OEM cartridges are all made in the same mold. The vairable is debris.My attempt to reduce video time to comply with the averge attention span caused me to not do a half hour video, or even full hour. After 5 million views and thousdands of replies, I regret to say, your comment is not alone in wanting more. But the instructions are to flush the body out first, that will likely prevent your problem. Just ask Moen tech support. Anyway, thanks for caring and as you can see, I care too. Together we make the world a better place...
Greg...
Hi plumbing gurus,
Just had a hot water tank installed by a company, but a poor solder joing on the cold water feed below the cutoff valve leaked water onto the top of the ne Bradford White Defender 40 gallon tank for about 14 hours. Quite a bit (gallons) on the floor, but it flowed first onto the top of the tank, where quite a bit must have made its way inside the tank (where the white insulation is).
They do not want to replace the tank, because it is still currently working. My last one lasted 17 years, this one only has a 6 year warranty.
Is it ok for me to keep this tank or should I stick to my guns (just an expression)?
Thanks!
Greg says: I would not worry at all, the heat will evaporate the moisture completly.Hi there Greg, I need your help.
I want to buy a new handle for my shower but am not sure what kind would be compatible with the valve that is currently installed. My contractor threw away the old handle so I have no clue what it was prior. I do have a photo of the valve naked.. it is like 2 inches long and has a hexagonal shape at the tipe with a screw on it.
I'm hoping that this is a standard valve but in my research, it seems like there are a bunch of varieties!
Thanks Greg!
daniel
Greg says: Daniel, see my e reply, I need a picture...Is it better to replace a water pressure regulator or use a rebuild kit?
Jack
Greg says: I have not seen kits work well is some models. I would think a factory kit for a Wilkind NR3 XL or an Apollo Conbraco regulator would accept a kit, but not seen Wilkins # 70 or #600 work with a kit. Best to use a valve body that uses a cartridge, that way it is like changing a light bulb in a way....What model do you have? What size? How old is the body? What pressures are you holding back, and down to how low? These issues are of issue.I successfully cleared a a stoppage in my bathroom sink. But when I replaced the pop-up plunger water is leaking out. I have tightened the knob as much as possible but it still leaks. I cleaned the second sink and have no such problem. Any suggestions? Should I apply some grease? What kind of grease? A washer?
Thank you for your help,
Peter
PS Your e-mail address I used to ask my question appears to be invalid.
Peter
Greg says: When you say Knob, do you mean the nut that tightens the pivot rod that goes into the pop up drain body, or the Jam nut that tightens the drain body to the bottom of the basin? If the pivot rod nut is leaking, there is almost always a seal or two on the ball part of the rod. Is the pop up body plastic, or brass?Hi Greg,
Found your great and relevant video about replacing a hot water recirculating pump. It was super helpful. Couple of questions related to this:
1) What is the point of the check valve?
2) Do you recommend a certain brand or model for a moderately sized home (~2500ft2) with just 2 persons living there.
3) Is a check valve required? Why?
4) Do i have to worry about air in the system? If so, how do I remove air in the system?
Thanks again for the helpful video!
Gene
Greg says: Gene,I recommend the “Faster hotwater.com” products I have 2 different videos on my site, one is Lang system, other is Faster hot water .com. Call them, Mark or his designers can spec your controls for you and ship it out to you directly.
As for a check valve at least one is needed, first off the code requires a check valve, the Mfgrs. Require one, and function does too. When water flows, it can take path of least resistance, the hot water piping system is connected to the cold piping system, water cam push from one side to the other due to pressure changes due to flow demand. Hot water on cold side is bad if it gets into a toilet, heat can crack china. Also single handle faucets cause flow issues.
Air can get trapped in a piping system when filling it up originally, or after turning water off for a repair. As well air can be created by a pump cavitating. Air can be eliminated many ways, one is purging it upon filling the pipes, then not letting any in after. Pump cavitation can make new air even after a purged fill, so air vents are placed in the high points of a piping system.
Poor design of pump placement can be a cause of repeated air so one design system has a thermal expansion tank installed just over 10 pipe sizes before the pump suction inlet.
Not all piping layouts are same, some have a 3rd. circ. Loop return to hot water tank. Some have only 2 pipes, one hot, one cold. In the case of a 2 pipe system, the cooled down hot water is pushed into the cold side and that loop pushes hot to the far end to replace the pushed water.
Controls are much bigger deal than most people understand. On demand, vs timer, vs both. As well as fast pumps vs slower pumps, compounded by crossover valves restricting the flow velocity/volume.
I have a Delta shower head on my shower. A couple days ago, when running the bath water, the shower leaked water . I took the shower head off and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the fixture. I put it back on and it still leaks, both in the tub and the shower head. It doesn't when the water is shut off.
Thank you
i
CM
Greg says: Chris,Any tub/shower valve can need service, when the valve leaks the water falls out of the tub spout, not the shower head. This is a gravity thing...your description says while the tub spout is running the shower head discharges water, right? When you say "it does not leak when the water is shut off" then you have no problem.. If I understand you correctly, the head leaks when your using the tub spout, that suggests there is a restriction in the spout forcing the water up hill to the head. I need clear defined description of what is leaking, so I do not error in my suggestion for a repair. If the "water is shut off" does that mean the water on the valve, or the water to the whole house, this is an example of the clarity I need. You can send pictures, or call me, 760-803-2881.
Hello Greg,
I have an old Moen shower handle that pulls away from the wall to turn the water on. That action functions well. The problem is that once the water is turned on, the handle seems stripped or does not engage in changing the water temperature. I have popped the cap off the front of the handle to reveal the screw, but when I turn the screw with a screw driver to take the handle off, nothing happens (except we can at least control the temperature by turning the screw). How can I get the screw out to figure out to begin to fix the real problem?
Thank you!
Dan
Greg says: Is handle broach broken? replace handle.
Greg says: Pressure regulators need to reduce static pressure. The flow drop when water is flowing is not regulation. There is to my knowledge and "regulator" designed to reduce only dynamic flow, that can be done by simply partially closing a ball valve or a gate valve or any simple flow restrictor. The main symptom of a failed regulator is not reducing static pressure. The regulator is completely defective, what is the static pressure ? If below 80 PSI, no regulator is required by plumbing code. However it is recommended static pressures are significantly lower than 80. Many homes operate effectively at 50 PSI. The lower the static pressure the less likely the chance of a leak and the less water is used/wasted.Hello. I have used your advice on the Delta tub faucet, worked like a charm. Now, on the same tub with the sane faucet; below this faucet is a toggle type lever that when pushed up will allow water to fill the tub. However, while to the eye the toggle doesn’t appear to be stuck in the up position, you need to hold it in the down position to allow the water to drain. So even when showering the tub is filling up with water, so then you have to sit and hold the lever down to drain the tub. There is no physical hair clog or anything, just the lever isn’t working. What is going wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks.
Alice
Greg says: Best replace the trip lever that has the 2 screws into the tub wall. The trip lever has a spring that makes it hold in either position. I can walk you thru the process easier on the phone.... 760-788-2889Hi, question on a re-circulation system...I have a return loop (actually two loops to different sides of the home, but they are joined together just before the recirc pump which is located at the water heater) with a Grundfos pump and the system works quite well in that it provides near-immediate hot water EXCEPT that it is causing sediment buildup in both of the shower heads which I assume are where the return loops are tapped in to the main hot water supply line at these two “farthest” locations. I therefore have to clean out my shower head filters (the small plastic inserts) way too often, when the pressure at the shower head is reduced due to all of the sediment build up in the plastic filter insert. If I disable the recirc system by unplugging the pump and valving off the two return loops (just before they are joined together, above the recirc pump near the water heater) then I have ZERO issues with sediment build up so the problem must have something to do with the recirc system and both return loops. I do have some sediment build up in the bottom of my electric hot water tank that I flush occasionally to try and minimize the issue and a thorough flushing does help lengthen the interval between having to clean the shower head filters but I can’t figure out how the sediment is getting to the shower heads via the return loop when the normal flow is the other way (and my Grundfos pump is the “always on” kind so there is always a flow into the bottom of the water heater tank. There is not a check valve between the recirc pump and the water heater drain valve – could this be the solution, since I see you mention it in one of your videos and have seen others refer to a check valve? It doesn’t seem though that the sediment from the bottom of the water heater can travel into the return loop since the pump is pushing the water the other way (into the bottom of the tank). Any idea what the problem is here and how I can fix it? I’ve even tried putting a RUSCO hot water filter on the tank’s output but that didn’t help at all – the sediment is getting into the return loop somehow and from there into the two shower fixtures. Help!
Thanks,
Ralph
PS – most of my lines are PEX, and I have verified that the dip tube in the water heater is not deteriorating and causing the sediment, it is in like brand new condition (the water heater is only 10 years old). I do seem to have a lot of sediment build up in my tank but I’ve verified that the anode rod is still intact (I actually replaced it already just to ensure it wasn’t the problem). I’ve also replaced the heater elements several times over the past 10 years to ensure they aren’t the issue.
Initials are fine
Greg says: Ralph, your water is hard. The water heater is "Only 10 yrs. old" is not really a good thing, avg. life of a water heater is about that. Circ pumps cause the water to flow therefore stay hot, but the water heater has to heat the lost heat, and more of the heat all the time. Heating water causes hard water to precipitate. It is not advised to run a circ pump all the time. On demand or only when needed is now the code requirement for many reasons. Your problem is one of them. Thermostats AKA Aqua-stats are a code approved up fit. Also the existing hard water build up is kept in suspension by the circulation.If you replace the tank as will be needed soon anyway, and Re-pipe the Circ system as per code, using check valves and isolation valves and an aqua-stat or other on demand control your problem will decrease. The balance of the hard water build up is from hard water. A real good and well set water treatment system will fix the hard water problem as that is what they do if done to code.
THANK YOU. you are the bomb. I tried so many sites, yours was very clear and at a pace I could follow and understand. IT WORKS.
Deborah Ohara
Greg says: Deborah, Thank you for noticing my intent. I get it that details matter and do not assume others know what what the terms are, so I am clear.Plumbing code it's self needs to be clear too...I have watched codes be written and therefore I assume nothing.
Congratulations on being a DIY'er..
I am installing a new vent branch going into my attic. I need to tap into the exisitng venting which is 1/5" copper and wonder the esisted way to accomplish this.
It is very tight so soldering seems a little precarious. What is my best option a fernco connector or is there somthing esls?
Michael
Greg says: 1'/5" copper? for a coupling use a steel banded Mission coupling. Use a minimum 2" size vent if a toilet is vented.hi, Greg! i had a leaking Delta Lahara (T17438) tub spout so i replaced the
cartridge (RP46463). anyhow, even after that, it still leaks in the off
position. Any thoughts on how to fix this please?
jesse
Greg says: Jesse,What is the water pressure in the building? it must be below 80 PSI. Did you use a Delta made part, or one saying "Fits Delta" by another maker, (a knock off)?
I have a second spicket can I install it backwards on main spicket to change direction ?????? . To help it also remove higher from the ground. ?????? .
Michael Butler
Greg says: I don't understand your question. Change direction? Remove from the ground? call me 760-788-2889...my cell;I have a Delta shower tub facet with the ball, seats and springs system. (No cartridge). My problem is not leaks, but the opposite. Cold water stopped to a trickle suddenly while taking a shower. I replaced the ball,seats and springs. I removed and soaked the push diverter. The only thing left is a balance spool that I can't find.I don't think the model has one. Still have a low pressure to both the shower and tub. Please help.
Syd G
Greg says: How old is the valve?Can you send a picture
When there is water in the Kitchen sink and I pull the plug to let it drain, it drains slowly, If tureen the GD on it shoots out the dishwasher airgap.
What can I do to fix this?
Nick Presher
Greg says: Is the other side draining ok? If so the disposal side is blocked, pull the tee fitting out and clear it and resemble. Possibly a wet/dry vacuum will suck out the blockage.My five year old American Standard Onyx bath faucet set to stop mixing hot and cold water (only blazing hot or ice cold water was delivered).
So, I replaced the pressure balancing valve: https://www.amresupply.com/part/9454307
After I put it back together, the water mixed just fine, but now my tub faucet kept dripping.
I took it apart and back together again maybe 3-4 times, and it still kept dripping. Went turning on the tub water and pulling up the diverter to shower mode, and then turning off the water, the diverter also didn't fall back down like it used to. It stays up with water dribbling out of the faucet.
So i figured I damaged the cartridge (ceramic) and replaced that this morning: https://www.amresupply.com/part/023529-0070A-USE-ULNAS8
Still the exact same drip!! And same issue with the shower diverter.
This stress is killing me. Any help would be greatly appreciated
RK
Greg says: RK, What is the water pressure in the house piping system? It needs to be under 80 PSI. This can be checked with a water pressure gauge. I have videos on the how and why....Hansgrohe
- Hand held shower head started leaking
- Plumber took apart the on/off (and hot/cold) lever and plate
- Plumber said we needed a new “cartridge”
- At times, there were 2 plumbers in the shower stall (heavy!)
- New cartridge would take care of the shower head leaking
- New cartridge installed. Now we have a different/new leak (argh!!) dripping down from our master bathroom shower into our family room below.
- Plumbers insist that the water is leaking down through the medal hinge on the bottom of the shower door
- I am not convinced
- The shower does not leak when I take a shower
- It leaks when my husband takes a shower after about 8 minutes in the shower (he is 115 pounds heavier than me)
- The water that is leaking down to our family room is quite cold even tho’ my husband is taking a hot shower.
- COULD IT BE THAT THE NEW CARTRIDGE WAS NOT PUT IN PROPERLY?
- NOTE: Our shower stall has 3 Swanstone solid panels from floor to ceiling and 1 glass door (top metal hinge and bottom metal hinge) Thus, Plumbers could only work on the cartridge from the small hole once they took off the control and the round plate ….
Kris
I just watched your video on how to repair delta faucet/valve in shower. Will this stop the dripping coming out of the faucet head? It isn’t leaking anywhere else, and I think there diverter also needs replaced. When we shower some water still comes out the faucet head.
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,Shower heads and spouts may drip, but the water comes from the valve in all cases. The valve has a diverter that can let water past to the spout, and that is another valve, but it does not originate the flow of water, just diverts it. Delta valve diverters are sold at hardware stores, they are a push in to divert and should spring out automatically when the shower valve is turned off valve. When the Tub valve is turned on the water automatically comes out the spout. So, when that valve leaks the drim comes out of the spout endlessly. So, yes, vixing the delta tub/shower valve will stop a leak. And if the diverter valve leaks, water will 99% divert to the shower head, but some will leak out of the spout.
Hi Everyone,
I have a question on drain piping.
I have a small area in my basement where i want to put a shower and a toilet. The builder gave a rough in here for the toilet while there is a 2" pipe at the opposite side of this room with a capped tee. This 2" pipe is going in the ground. I recently found out that this 2" pipe is actually a vent that goes all the way to top of my townhome.
The question is.. can i connect my shower drain with this 2" pipe.
Looking forward to your advice.
Zafar Mahmood
Greg says: We need to know how the 2" pipe is connected to the pipe below the ground to know if it is a vent, or a drain. Another question is if the basement is below the street sewer elevation and is the toilet vented otherwise? The roof will show vents, but other vents may be existing and connecting to the ones going all the way thru the roof. The Drain Waste & Vent (DWV) system is the whole pipping arrangement, not the sum of what can be seen.Every time I open the cold water tap in kitchen, the pressure shoot the outside tap open.
Greg says: Not sure what you mean, call me. 760-788-2889I am trying to change the cartridge on a moen shower faucet and the Allen screw is stripped what is the best way to get it out ? Thanks
Al
Greg says: Did you get my direct e mail? cut of the handle careful not to cut off stem. get new handle...Greg - loved the videos, but when I went back to the WAter Pressure link I got a 406 error from the web server. You might want to check as to why the server can't provide that page.
The message in the web page was:
Not Acceptable
An appropriate representation of the requested resource /waterpressure.shtml could not be found on this server.
Meamtime keep up the great videos!
toby
Greg says: Thanks for the report. Can you be more specific where the link was to the water pressure page that didn't work?Here's the correct address to the water pressure page:
http://diyplumbingadvice.com/waterpressure.shtml
Bill Palmer
webmaster@ramonasplumber.com
Hi Greg,
I have a 1989-ish Delta Scald Guard valve that likely needs a RP574 pressure balancing spindle. After a pressure surge, we were only getting cold water. I replaced the handle, cartridge, seats and springs and it now only sprays HOT.
The brass nut that needs to be removed in order to gain access to the pressure balance spool has 3-4 slots that run from top to bottom. Any tips for removing this cap? Tried heat, screwdriver and wrenches.
I appreciate your insight.
Craig
Craig Perkins
Greg says: Craig,W-D 40 may help, but heat is what I use, tapping on edge with sharp chisel & hammer. Tapping at the rotational direction of the unscrewing needed.
If faucet grease is used when valve is assembled, the parts will not fuse together.
Also water treatment of the whole house water is another method of reducing corrosion. The tapping to unscrew is just like the method a tire shop does to remove car wheels.
A VIGO kitchen faucet started to loose cold water pressure and finally no cold water coming out. I removed the faucet from the kitchen sink and found that there is a check valve in each of both copper tubes that engage with the water lines (cold and hot) coming into the kitchen.
I found out that the cold water plunger in the cold water copper tube was stuck in the closed position. I pushed it, using an allen wrench and it got free. I tried it many times and it worked ok. I assembled everything back and got the problem solved.
But a week later the problem reappeared. I believe for the same reason. Should I have lubricated the plunger? What with? Should I forget trying to work again and buy a new check valve?
Thanks for your advise.
Jorge Alberto Puebla
Greg says: Remove the check valve, replace is possible, but most faucets do not have checks in them , they stick!Alright plumbers. Double down well, convertible jet replacement
Pressure tanks set to the specified 28psi. Jet pumps been primed a few times. Turn on, pressure gauge gets to 20psi not even a second. And drops to zero.... keep priming, or am I missing something. All pipes were water tested , with no leaks
Danielle Bruno
Greg says: check valve leaking back. replace the check valve.We have the following setup: water from street, meter, pressure regulator, main line. We are told that it should be the reverse: water from street, pressure regulator, meter, main line. The pressure regulator is very old and may not be functioning correctly. Apparently the water from the street is high psi. We have found a small leak in the main water line. The meter is recording a constant usage of about one cubic foot every 15 minutes (roughly two quarts a minute). The leak doesn't seem to be nearly that much. We could, of course, have another leak that we haven't found. But I am wondering, if the water meter is intended to record usage at a lower water pressure, could the higher water pressure be causing inaccurate (inflated) readings?
Thank you
BH
Greg says: all pressure regulators are after the meter. Best if directly after, but in any case after the meter.Meters may under-report, but do not over-report.
looking for replacement stems hot and cold for American Standard shower mixer purchased about 1996,please advice
Webster Crichton
Greg says: contact Mfgr. they are the source...Thank you for your video on the dishwasher air gap. My dishwasher was not draining, and I tried your "paper towel trick", which cleared the blockage immediately. Thanks again!
TMcG
Greg says: Thank you, Tom, I am glad to help, just call if you ever have something and no video exists. A picture from you and a call is all I need to solve what you need. Likely tell you best direction to go ..Hello. We recently lost water pressure after a pipe burst in our pump house. We replaced the pressure switch and then noticed the bladder in the pressure tank ruptured so we replaced the tank as well. We still have barely any water pressure. If you turn off the faucet and let pressure build back up you get about 30 seconds of good pressure and then fades to a show trickle and then to nothing at all. You can't open more then one faucet at a time either. Thanks!
Alida
Greg says: Alida,There is likely a blockage in the pipe between the new tank and the house. Is the new tanks pressurized within 2 psi of the pressure pump switch? Is there a gate valve that has a stuck gate restricting the flow? Is there a water pressure reducing regulator at the entrance to the house that has debris in it? where is good flow available, find that and then move towards the house to find blockage, then look between the 2 points. How old is the pipe to the house and what is it made of? Galvanized pipe is very prone to blocking up...
Thanks for the Delta 600 refurb video. How long will the 600 valve last? I am remolding the bathroom and wandering if I should get a new shower/tub faucet or just get the refurb kit( which seems similiar to what you did). The original 600 was put in 1992 so it is 27 years old. It has never leaked or had any problems in the 10 years I have owned the home. Thanks
Curly
Greg says: The valve could last decades, if assembled with a silicone grease on the dome nut threads for easy removal and replacing the cups. As well using the optional stainless steel ball instead of the cheaper plastic ball. I have the same valve in my home with out age worries. However the new designed valves required for new construction are a pressure balancing type for anti scalding feature. That requires a whole new valve body. but then the parts to service are more expensive and more often need service....I have a Delta 1177lf Delta pot filler. It is leaking where the faucet bends I can't find anything that would tell me how to fix it. I would appreciate any help you can give me. The faucet is 5 years old
Tia
Kathy Denk
Kathy Jo Denk
Greg says: Kathy,Delta has parts for most products, go to Delta.com find part and order it...
I have a Delta 1177lf Delta pot filler. It is leaking where the faucet bends I can't find anything that would tell me how to fix it. I would appreciate any help you can give me. The faucet is 5 years old
Tia
Kathy Denk
Kathy Jo Denk
Greg says: Kathy,The Delta company offers a warranty on faucets, they likely have a pivot seal kit. If no seal kit exists, a new faucet will be needed. No common service parts are made for special design pivot joints in faucets. Joint disassembly is needed and I can not see a parts breakdown on that faucet. Contact Delta.
Hello Mr. Greg Chick,
Thank you for the video.."How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve". By the way I have the same exact Delta valve and it is is leaking. Would like to find the correct spare parts (including the ball, and the handle; will be great if the whole assembly can be bought). Can you help with where I can purchase and the part numbers if any.
Regards,
Nagesh
nv
Greg says: Nagesh,Most hardware stores stock the parts, the Delta ball for the shower valve is a very common part.
Greg -
Hoping you have an idea here. We have 2.5 baths. The toilet in our master bath is not draining properly. It begins to flush and then stops, and the water slowly syphons out. The other toilets, sinks, and showers are all draining without any issue.
Here are the steps I have taken in an effort to locate and fix the problem and what I have found.
1. Plunger - no luck.
2. Snake - no luck.
3. Pull toilet and found water is very slow draining down the drain pipe - backs up and then very slowly drains. Tried using a lengthy pipe snake and it is either hitting something or hitting a turn that I can't find a way to negotiate.
I've read this could indicate the vent is blocked, but how could this be if everything else is flushing and draining OK? This includes another toilet on the other side of the wall from this toilet.
Suggestions on how I can clear this line?
Is it safe to use a small powered drain auger of some type on PVC pipes?
Thanks for any guidance.
Rory
Greg says: RoryThere are branches in the building drain, there is supposed to be a clean out for each one. The branch that is not draining needs snaking with a main drain sized cable/snake. If no clean out is known, the vent on the roof can be used if it is 3" Dia. or bigger. Not a good idea to snake thru a toilet flange in the floor. All houses are not built same in all eras, nor in all regions. A professional plumber is sometimes needed.
After using hot water such as taking a bath, running dishwasher about 5 or 10 min. later when I turn on a faucet I will a brief burst of high water pressure with hot or cold. Would this be the pressure relief valve or the heater itself?
Roger
Greg says: Roger,You likely have thermal expansion pressure from the water heater having heated up the water tank after cooling it down from using hot water. You can fix this by installing a thermal expansion tank to absorb this expansion. If you have pressures over 80 psi, which is common from thermal expansion you are risking a blow out..
Yes the pressure relief valve is a device to deal with this, but only to prevent an explosion. Like an air bag on a car is not intended to replace brakes on a car. Google the term thermal expansion, the watts Mfgr. has a clear description of the issue. Plumbing code requires a thermal expansion tank in this situation. I can detail for you more if needed.
There is a job available for indian Plumbers at sir.
Greg says: Gurmeet,Your comment does not make sense to me.
Greg.
When, stupidly, trying the deal with a blockage in the bathroom sink I eventually undid all the main nuts. And problem was solved But in the middle of the job I tried to twist and turn the silver pipe into the wall. Could I have caused a leak behind the wall or the drain behind the pipe well secured please.
PD
Greg says: PD, Different regions of the world use different codes and methods of building drain waste and vent systems. As well different decades used different materials. What kind of house, a multi story building or a modular house are also different. I need more than the color of a pipe... sory to be so anal, but I am a plumber... You could send a picture to this site or my e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com.Likely you need to replace a P-Trap, the silver pipe is likely a trap arm, silver likely means its chrome, therefore brass, therefore two options exist. If its soldered into an adapter into cast iron, that is more difficult, or connected using a compression nut, just tighten the nut. Knowing the other things helps me tell you the repair methods.
hello.
why would both my outside pressure release valve and my hot water pressure release valve blow out at almost the same time.
details upon request.
thank you.
page
page
Greg says: Both "blow" for same reason, high pressure. The pressures obviously spiked . Pressure is equal thru the whole system. The water heater can create water pressure by expanding water from thermal expansion. The city water system often delivers water at very high pressures, requiring a pressure reducing valve after your water meter. Even after that, if, and that is a big IF, that reducing valve is working, there can be pressure created in the piping after that (thermal expansion). Reducing or regulating valves stop working after so many yrs. and need replacing, like tires on a car!. I have 4 videos on you tube about water pressure. You need to check your pressure in a static condition, and a dynamic condition to know if the regulator is working. If you do not have a regulator, you need one! This blow off of water pressure is a severe liability.Greg, I have a space in my bonus room that I would like to put in a 1/2 bath with just a toilet and wash basin. The space measures 45' by 55' with opening on short wall, toilet opposed and basin in long wall between.
Can you tell me the minimum floor space required to put in a half bath and if this is space is big enough?
Thanks
Dave
Dave M
Greg says: Dave, what code is being used where you are? In Ca. where the CPC / UPC codes are used a 30" width is required for a toilet another 30" wide for a lavatory, some codes allow 24" wide for a lavatory. By submitting a pre inspection approval at the planning dept. they will give the final word. By not getting a permit, you risk a few things... Are you in a city or a county jurisdiction?Thank you so much for the DIY video regarding soldering a new hose bibb! I have to replace both and this was well instructed.
NAB
Greg says: NAB,Glad to be of assistance.
How can I send a photo?
Ben
Greg says: yes, please do sorry for late responseI am converting to pex b water supply lines. JUst past the water meter there is an elbow that directs the galvanized pipe from horizontal to vertical. Is there a ball valve that has a male thread to go into this female union and then a pex barb on the other side of the valve to run my pex straight from there?
Ben
Greg says: Remove all galvanized pipe, connect directly to the brass ball valve on the outlet of the meter. The ball valve will have threaded female outlet. Do not leave galvanized pipe in any piping system. It is ok to hook to the meter, everything after the meter is yours!I am converting my fiberglass tub/shower to a shower only. Removing tub shower unit, installing pan and tiling walls. Is there any way to convert my tub/shower valve to a shower only type of valve? I.e. eliminate the diverter valve so it does not come through the tile wall. Any input you may have will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Randall
randall clement
Greg says: Cap the spout outlet at the valve within the wall. Thats the short answer, a longer one exists.I replaced my hot water recirculating pump about 15 years ago. Now it is time to do it again. At that time I bought an exact replacement at Grainger, a Little Giant CMD-100-5B. But it is no longer made. No one can tell me what to use to replace it. I like the Grundfos in your video, but where can I buy one? Their website is no help. I have a dedicated hot water return line in the house.
Doug
Greg says: Grundfos UP-15-18-SU is a good circulator for a single story, some two story homes. Get one with a timer, and an aqua-stat. They come with the union, (SU) having isolation ball valves in them sized for 1/2" and 3/4" the copper connection can be threaded, or compression.hello
my questions deal with putting a GAS water heater tank on a timer.
obviously, electric water heater tanks can have timer switches.
what about putting a timer switch on gas water heaters?
specifically, i have a state select power vent water heater with a honeywell gas control valve (wv4464a1037, see https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TrcAAOSwMK9aPBuW/s-l300.jpg )
the venting blower is plugged into an outlet, and if unplugged the honeywell control unit will stop operating.
i have read that the control unit should be shut off using its on/off valve.
so my concerns are
1) will operating the power vent blower, hence also the control valve, via a timer switch instead of the control units on/off switch
(see https://cf1.s3.souqcdn.com/item/2014/08/18/71/72/55/7/item_XL_7172557_5407869.jpg )
somehow damage the electronics in the gas control valve?
2) will greater thermal cycling swings shorten the life of the water heater?
currently, the heater is set to around 130F, with swings of maybe 10F when someone uses the shower, but perhaps only 5F steady state.
if i set the water heater to turn on at 6 am and turn off at 10 am, the tank temperature might be down to 110F in the morning, so a 20F swing. might this greater thermal expansion lead to premature failure?
nk
Greg says: Honeywell sells a controller that is designed to work with the gas valve and can program. The temp delta is going to cause expansion and contraction. The glass lining in the tank is the concern. Bradford White is a tank water heater Mfgr. that pioneered the Honeywell control. I would contact the Tank Mfgr. for the up fit controls and read the installation/operation manuals.Other means of heating water exist, what is the goal? not wasting fuel, cost of fuel, desire to be top tech? All gas is not equal, all residential water heating lods are not equal, so on...
The intake hoses fastens to the faucet threaded pipe with a spring clip. I can't fet the rube sheath of go up high enough to reattach the hose. Help!
k bretz
Greg says: I can not understand the problem, as I can no see it as you can and all faucets and connections are different. Using longer tubes could be your need, a picture will help...send to 760-788-2889 or greg@ramonasplumber.comIs it possible to stretch the springs in a single lever shower faucet to stop a leak? Seems I have to replace them and the rubber seats every 6 months or so? i love your youtube videos.
Thank you.
Mr Rex
Greg says: Check your water pressure, should be less than 80 psi.. The dome adjustment should be tight, other issues exist, stretching springs is not good.I am attempting to repair a shower drain. The shower has a fiberglass or plastic shower pan with an 1 1/2" deep metal dish the drain pipe comes up through. The metal dish does not appear to be removable. The dish had been filled with silicone to seal it. I am thinking this is not correct. Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks
Tim Schaeffer
Greg says: The drain fitting is tightened before the pan is installed. This is a plumbing contractor knowledge level issue. The replacement of such is very difficult and requires skills learned.My dishwasher is nowhere near the kitchen sink. However, it does sit right next to a washing machine drain, i.e., a metal pipe that comes straight up out of the slab. I want the dishwasher to empty into the drain that was meant for a washing machine. A washing machine discharge hose has a 180 degree hook on the end of it that you simply hook into the drain. Dishwasher discharge hoses don't have that. So, I want to purchase/make that type of any end for the end of my dishwasher discharge hose. Unfortunately, I am having trouble figuring out what to buy, and where I can buy it from. Any advice? I don't want it to leak, and I don't want it to cost a fortune. Yes, I can simply stuff the end of the hose down inside the drain, but I prefer not to.
KIP SMITH
Greg says: KipThere are air gap fittings made and approved to just what you want to do. search stand pipe air gap The dish washer waste can not be put directly into a waste line, You need air gap indirect waste fitting... This fitting sits on top of stand pipe and has a smaller hole to attach the 7/8 " dish washer tube.
Hi Greg,
You have given my great advise in the past. My worry at the moment is a toilet that flushes fine but when it does the tub right beside it gives a kind of glub sound.
Do I need a plumber. The tub drains fine and the toilet flushes rather vigorously but seems to be fine. It is the funny glub in the bathtub drain that is a worry.
Thanks,
Joanne
Camille
Greg says: Joanne,Your sewer main is blocked, you need it cleared by a plumber with a mainline snake. The clean-outs in the ground outside are needed, do you know where they are?
I turn my shower on with a pull on valve and when I get the temp set to hop in the shower, shortly thereafter it slowly gets colder and I have to turn the valve hotter. I have to do this every couple minutes. Does the problem have to do with the valve or the water heater? Because if I turn it to full hot, it will still burn you.
Levi Holmes
Greg says: Levi,Many things can be happening, the exact make and model of the shower valve and the types of pipe in the house, the type of water heater, the distance of the water heater, if you have a circulation pump on that system and more are needed to T shoot the issue. Each answer to the questions alone is not enough because any one or more of those parts of the hot water system could not be working!
Plumbers can devote 10 or 20 or more years to know how to t shoot this situation in person, let alone on line! My 40 yrs. tells me this.
Just changed pressure regulator but pressure is still 110.factory preset at 50.
Now what???
Tlc
Greg says: Is the body of the valve in backwards?Hello
What a great idea to have a forum for the sticky problems of plumbing!we have a home built in the late 80s - we have had two explainable slab leaks due to pin holes in copper pipesone bend in the pipe from water heaterand one in the dining room wall.
We have two baths upstairs and toilets and showers can be heard all over the house
it is almost 30 years now and we are researching whether to repipe, with what and how.
Any inquiry from local plumbers brings a rain down of offers to do the work for $4 - 8 K - with all different recommendations for materials.
We live near hills and have to set traps in attic for roof rats so I though . . . no PEX. . .but beyond that trying to justify the more expensive copperwould you repipe? or just stay on top of repairs over time?
We are preparing to remodel and we thought it best to evaluate this prior to redoing walls, floors and painting
Jeannie
Mrs Jeannie Mollenauer
Greg says: Jeannie,So, I assume most the pipe is in the slab and done by the same “Plumber” that the leaky sections. A couple of things are needed to know, one, the reaming of copper when cut to remove a share edge is required to avoid cavitation and thus pin holes. Two, flux used to solder was corrosive back then and no longer used, so that will help on replacement copper. Velocity of flow in the hot water piping can be an issue especially if a circulation pipe is installed on the hot side. Fixtures now draw less volume of water and therefore velocities are reduced from that. I use copper for some work, but use Viega Pro Press fittings and do not solder! Pro press fittings are much faster and better because they have longer turn radius in elbows.
Water chemistry can pit copper a whole house Point Of Entry water treatment system can fix that. Likely your troubles are flux corrosion and lack of reaming and installation errors. I love PEX, but so do rats, so, copper is doable, and stable, done correctly. Hot water is corrosive and the hotter it is the worse it is. Type L copper is thicker than type M. Type L comes in two ways, in a roll that is “Soft” or bendable, and it comes in stiff “hard” pipe. Code requires type L in commercial buildings, and if under concrete. It’s more expensive so used when possible, but it’s cheaper because the wall thickness is thinner.
Your leaks may be increased by high pressure as well, you are limited by code to be below 80 PSI. But 50 is all you need. Some people keep the pressure at 40 PSI. If the street pressure is over 80 there needs to be a pressure reducer, if one is there, it may not be working well, they last about ten yrs. Thermal expansion is another cause of high pressure, that is pressure from heated water.
My experience is slab leaks suck, re piping after 40 yrs. is very common.
Any specific questions on this input?
Hi there,
I live in a condo on the second floor (which is the top floor). Over the last week I have been smelling sewer gas. From what I can tell, it is coming from my two bathtub drains. I have used baking soda with vinegar and flushed with hot water then ran the cold water. It held the smell at bay for a couple of hours but it is back. I have a plumber coming tomorrow morning but am wondering if you could give me any insight ahead of that so I will have an idea of what might come up.
Thank you!
RS
Greg says: Rochelle,You may have a fowl odor from the overflow for the tub. Enzymes are good for that not acid. The other possibility is a crack in the vent line in the wall. There are tests for that. Peppermint oil is poured into vent on the roof top and is smell is sensed indoors, the vent is broken.
A few years ago a plumber installed a single handle bath faucet in my tub/shower. Since then I can't take a hot bath because when the handle is on full hot water the flow is too strong and the water gets cold. I don't have a water heater, it is fed through an oil burner. I have used the shower head to fill the tub as the water stays hotter but have melted two shower massagers this way. How can I adjust the water flow to less when filling the tub so the water stays hotter. Or, what other options do I have? My plumber said that I could purchase a hot water heater but I don't want one. I appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Mary
Bathless
Greg says: Mary,I need to know more about the tub/shower valve and the water heater. You can send a picture to this e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com, or to my cell ph. 760-788-2889. The controls on the boiler are likely the issue. The water pressure in the building is one issue, the distance from the boiler to the tub is another also the pipe size and type. If the pipe is insulated or not and are other homes on that boiler?
I have a oil fired hot water boiler with a domestic hot water coil which runs in the summertime. I installed a 50gal electric hot water heater, can the boiler feature be bypassed so the furnace will not run until the house t'stat calls for it when house gets cold. The control is a Honeywell L8024B aquastat, which controls the domestic water temp and the house water temp. Thanks for you help.
Milt
Milton Carter
Greg says: Milt, unplug the oil system. Call a local hydronic technician if that does not work. Your dealing with a complex system.You need to replace the cartridge, the video shows how, the question is, do you have the push pull or the turn only valve body. The turn only is the newer one since 1990 or so. it is called Posi-temp.
Greg,
I saw your video on how to fix the Moen Shower tub valve.
My tub single handle value was really hard to turn off so I took off the
handle and white stop lock mechanism to see if I could see anything.
I did not take off the clip or remove the actual value.
Now when I turn the water back on I cannot find an off position to turn off the water.
Any ideas? It is like I cannot find the off position even though I rotate the value
over 360 degrees.
This is urgent since my entire house water is off.
Please comment......Jim Morizio
James Morizio
Greg says: You put the handle back on wrong.Hi Greg, many thanks in advance for any response!
So, I am replacing an old acrylic kitchen sink with a new stainless steel one(I live in a double wide mobile & yes, I got the correct size!).I plan to keep the current faucet(a replacement)as I like it. However, I'd like to replace the strainer basket assemblies....problem is,the current ones have plastic parts attaching to black plastic piping.Will the steel assemblies work or do I have to suffer with what I have(they don't hold water in the sink at all)?Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
Sheri Belanger
Greg says: Sheri,The thin tubular plastic slip joint sink drain pipes and P-Traps are fine. The Brass tubular is same size, drain cleaners are bad on the brass. Drain cleaners are bad altogether. The basket strainers are 3.5" and have 1.5" outlets. Do not use the flexible drain pipe. There are good better and best connection patterns of pipe. The Baffle tee outlet should drop directly into the P-Trap. The trap arm is likely on either the left or the right, the side it's on should be the same side as the baffle tee. A waste arm into branch of the tee goes to the other tail piece that is vertically down from the other basket strainer.
G'd bless you a hundred times and good health for you and your loved ones...Your instructions on how to reduce the pressure on my regulator was concise, simple to follow and visual. I was able to complete what I needed to do as well as to show my wife how to make the adjustment. You made a hero out of this old guy! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!
profound gratitude
Greg says: Thanks for your viewing and appreciation. I enjoy helping.will a shower mixing valve work if the cold and hot water lines are reversed?
kenneth bennett
Greg says: Kenneth,it depends on the valve make and model. All single handle Moen valves are reversible by just rotating the stem. Some other Mfgrs. do as well. Pressure balance valves are required to be hot left, cold right in order to work safely. Other valves that are older can work, just backwards. What make / model is your valve ?
Greg,
My basement is plumbed for a toilet, I'd like to install one, but during heavy rainfall water has come up through the drains in the past. Here: http://imgur.com/OojGyMU is where it's plumbed for a toilet. It's been capped off to avoid water coming up.
I have these valves: http://imgur.com/BPrFvEH on each drain that as long as I remember to keep shut will prevent the water from coming up.
I also have an old backwater valve? http://imgur.com/4rhKVpV I don't think it is functioning as I'm only able to turn about half a rotation with the crank.
So my questions are:
1) How likely is it that the plumbing for the toilet is still good?
2) Could I install something that is like what is set up for the two drains where I could close the drain for the toilet if heavy rainfall is expected.
3) Would you reccomend getting my backwater valve serviced or replaced? (My city will pay for half of the expenses on a new backwater valve)
4) What would you do if you were in my situation?
Thanks,
Nate
Nate
Greg says: Nate,I would re pipe the exposed piping with plastic pipe and use new backwater valves on everything. Gate valves are not the best for waste water, they cause fouling. I would run a camera down the drain lines and hydro jet them is they are built up with anything. A camera can answer most questions. New valves can reduce trouble forward, and a local plumber that has both hydro jetting equipment and a camera.
My upstairs cold tap when partially turned on makes a loud noise what causes it and how to rectifyThis problem
Thanks
Paul
Greg says: Paul,You say upstairs "cold tap" is that a hose bib, shower valve having one handle or what? Is the valve old, wall mount, 1/4 turn, several turns to open all the way? Your question is like asking my car wont work right, whats wrong.... Older faucets have washers in them that chatter, while some faucets can squeal, these sounds are descriptive and help me know what the cause may be. Another issue is the water pressure in the building, if too high, that will cause even a well maintained faucet to make noise.
Hi Greg. I changed the pressure balance unit and everything is good now. Thanks for all your help and quick response.
Frank
Greg says: Atta Boy, thanks for watching.I have a gerber toilet. After about 5years it started to leak. I have reset it 4 times using different wax rings and haven't had any success. I noticed a small eight inch hole in the bottom. Could this be the problem or is this something from factory. Any suggestions would be helpful
Tony Gregory
Greg says: I need a picture, the flange the toilet sits on, is it above the finish floor level? If how high? Is the flange tight, or will it move?The part number is A954440-0070A
Frank
Greg says: That is a pressure balancing cartridge, the spool is likely jammed. Sometimes the cartridge will click when you shake it back and forth in the direction the spool slides. Some do not. The factory knows if that one should. Pull the whole cartridge and close the shower enclosure and turn the house water on. There should be water flying out of the body. put your fingers in the body and on the left side of the body where the cartridge goes in should have hot water coming out.Greg
There is not a spool behind the cartridge. The psi is just slightly over 80. The faucet is the only single handle faucet in the house.
Frank
Greg says: Can you send me a picture of the valve or the part number of the cartridge you put in?the water in my shower is not regulating. it is either cold or extremely hot. i changed the cartridge and still have the problem. i have an american standard single handle faucet.
Frank
Greg says: Is the cartridge a pressure balancing type? Is there a balancing spool behind the cartridge? Is the water pressure over 80 psi? is there a single handle faucet in the house besides the shower? if so what make is it?My tub/shower is leaking water into the room downstairs. I did a test, and running the water into the tub and holding water in the tub does not cause it to leak. But, when I activate the shower head, after a while the water starts to drip through the ceiling downstairs. Is there any other place for this to leak besides the supply joint behind the spout, or the joint up by the shower head?
I want to know for sure before I cut a big hole in the wall in the adjacent room.
Also, to make things more confusing, this has happened on and off for a few years. Yesterday was the first time it's happened in well over a year. How could a leak start and stop like this?
Tom Perry
Greg says: Duration of use allows enough water to build up and then to drip thru ceiling, or, The shower head restriction of flow causes more to leak out because of higher pressure, or the spray from shower head is reaching a bad section of enclosure, or several other things. Being a plumber is not an A or B simple thing. Enclosures are made of many different materials ....... Likely the shower arm threads or the spout connection. either way no need to cut wall...I have very little cold water from my shower faucet. What can I do?
Shiree Hughes
Greg says: Tell me more, dozens of issues can be present. send picture
Trying to locate the water shut off valve for my shower/tub in my upstairs condo?ryyple
Greg says: Some shower valves have built in stops/shut off valves in the body. Behind the trim plate. Look there. If none, there is lkely none because the cheapest bidder got the job and the min. was installed.I Bought A New Kitchen Sink In Black And A New Delta Faucet In Rubbed Bronze, So I Also Want To Switch Out The Flange ,( I Think That Is What It Is Called ) ) On The Garbage Disposal To A Rubbed Bronze And Also The Basket Strainer On The Other Side. Is There A General Size That I Need For These Like 3.5' Or How Do I Go About Measuring For The Size I Need ?
Wendy
I recently hooked up the garden hose for the season. After watering the lawn one afternoon, I turned the valve off on the hose bib. The next day, I heard water running. I checked the hose bib and it was still slightly on and leaking. Putting all my weight into the valve turned it off completely, but I was afraid I was on the verge of damaging the bib.
A week later, I tried to use the hose again. When I turned the valve on, the bib leaked profusely. I ended up replacing the entire bib manifold.
Today I used the hose to water the garden (no more leak at the bib), then turned the valve off when I was done. Later in the afternoon I again heard water running. The bib was not leaking, but sure enough, the valve was slightly on and water was leaking from the end of the hose. I again put all my weight into cranking the valve off. This seems to have worked, but again, I'm afraid putting that much force on the valve is not good for it.
What could be the problem and how do I fix it? Or should I continue to crank the valve closed with all my might? Thanks!
Adam
Greg says: Adam,Replace the hose bib and check your water pressure, code and good sense to reduce leaks requires less than 80PSI. When you say entire bib manifold, what do you mean? What is the water pressure and best to use 1/4 turn ball valve hose bibs.
My husband recently replaced the flapper on our toilet; but when putting the lid back on the right side slipped out of his hand and cracked the inside of the tank. We tried putting clear water proof caulking on the outside but it's still leaking. We rent our home so of course this caused panic in both of us. I called my local HD and Lowes(even some local Mom and pop stores) to find a replacement tank and they all say the entire toilet has to be replaced because it's an older model (Kilgore 201 WS w/ a 12inch base). We're looking at $150-$200 not including installation. At this time we're on a tight budget so that's not feasible. Is there anyplace we can go online to buy a replacement tank or are we going to be stuck buying an entirely new toilet for a place we don't own? Any help would be appropriated,thank you.
Valerie
Greg says: There are universal tanks made of cheap plastic and less than $100. There are in some urban areas used toilets to be bought in junk stores. There are plumbers who replace toilets for up grades and have to pay the dump to except the old ones. Call some plumbers and or the dump.If I use a water sprayer on the end of a hose, or an on/off lever at the end of that hose, instead of turning the water off at the spicket at the house, does that increase the risk of water leaking INSIDE the house? There is zero leaking outside either at the spicket or at the attachment at the other end of the hose.
kss
Greg says: Kristy,Not unless the hose bib is a frost proof hose bib because your in a region where those are installed. The water pressure is the same throughout the house regardless if the hose bib is off or if the hose end is off.
The issue with the frost proof hose bibs is some of them are not listed to have a hose shut off on the hose. Frost proof hose bibs say on the handle that they are frost proof.
I have been, perhaps, causing a hot water problem in my coop building. This is a 5 floor building in New York with one residential unit per floor. There are two vertical supply risers, one on either side of building and a hot water circulator to make hot water more quickly available. It seems that my shower control valve may be responsible for causing one side of the building from my unit#2 up to unit #5 to have no hot water on tone side of the building. Unit #1 below me doesn't seem to be effected. The hot water heater is a large natural gas fired unit in the basement. My shower body was installed over 10 years ago prior to my residency. Somehow there is a crossover occurring which I can prevent by being careful not to completely turn the shower valve/mixer off. I just turn it enough to stop any flow of water but if I turn it off securely it then causes this side of the building to have no hot water until I turn it on again ever so slightly. So slightly it doesn't even drip. The building insisted I have a plumber have a look. He offered nothing but a bill because the day he went the hot water was working because I am mindful not to turn it securely off. Do I need to replace my shower valve/mixer which acts as the temperature setting and then goes to a pressure overhead shower valve or a hand held pressure valve on either side? or is the problem some where else?. I hope I have described my problem so that you can understand it. If not, I will be happy to clarify. It has really become a source of unnecessary tensions in the building.
geturdone
Greg says: You have a building that has a complex piping layout. This type of plumbing service is not a DIY thing. Too many different issues can be present to direct you. I suggest you hire one of those highly trained Master Plumbers that NY has. NY is blessed with a plumber and tradesman licensing system that is very good, use one of them. If your downtown I know of a cranky old fart sort of a plumber that can serve you well. Not that you need a cranky old fart, but his skills are as good as they come...I want to run water to my barn/garden and the well that feeds my house is between the barn and my house about 100ft away from the barn. Can I just run water line below the frost line and then "T" the barn water line into the feeder water line that runs into my house rather than running all the way to the other side of the pressure tank which is in my finished basement? I would like to run to the well itself rather than drilling into my basement wall. It is my understanding that I can do this but my have to relocate the check valve. Additionally I was wondering what kind of pressure I would have from just the well directly. This water hydrant will be used primarily to water the garden. thank you.
JDS
Greg says: Tee into the pipe and all will work at the pressure that is in the pipe where the tee is. Do you have a booster pump in the basement?Im finishing a bathroom shower project that was not done right i have removed all grout am replacing it then sealing my question is the selector dial for hot cold is flush on top and quarter inch out on bottom do they make a cover plate that will hide this issue.
rick hardee
Greg says: The valve needs to be level, the wall needs to be flat and vertical, the surface that the trim plate meets needs to be flat. Send a picture to show me what you have.Dave, if you can figure this one out, you're great. I need help! I bought an Oxygenics Power Select for our master shower. Removed old shower hose and head from 8 inch wall shower outlet. Cleaned thread, applied teflon tape, installed new hose only. Hot water coming out of hose only- then I installed hand held wand. Figure this out. It only dispenses COOL water from the wand yet w/o the wand we get very hot water from the hose. Disconnected 2 wands from other locations in my house to try. Attached both to hose dispensing hot water. Both wands then dispensed cool water. Any ideas for why we only get cool, not warm or hot water from any of the 3 shower wands when they are alternately attached?
Thanks, Mike
Mike Mataraza
Greg says: Mike,You may have a cross over of cold water into the hot water side from a flow restriction in the hot side at the water heater. The hot or cold or both nipples or flexes are restricting hot water flow and cold is pushing in. Look at water heater. Do you have those braided hoses at the water heater top?
Greg, I just wanted to THANK YOU for your website and DIY videos. Our Viking dishwasher (DFUD042) went out today. We recently bought this house and it came with the dishwasher but no paperwork on it. After locating the user manual online, I was able to remove and clean the filters -- which very badly needed to be cleaned -- but that did not fix the problem of the wash cycle not completing and leaving water in the bottom of the dishwasher. The manual said another cause of that might be that the air vent needed to be cleaned. Since I didn't know what that meant, I Googled further and somehow came up with your website and the DIY video on this topic, and voila!, I fixed it! It was loaded with shredded carrots, a little bit of hair (yuck!), half a toothpick, and even a small chicken bone shard. We are a little too far from Ramona to call on your in-person services in the future, but I have bookmarked your website and I am sure we will be visiting it again.
Thanks again! This is a great service for homeowners like us who are adventurous enough to try to fix things ourselves:-)
Laurie Emery
Greg says: Wonderful,I'm glad to help, tell a friend so they can get into the DIY and learn about plumbing. There are videos like ten essential things everyone should know... on my DIY you tube page that keep people out of plumbing trouble...
My Delta Pull-Out kitchen faucet has an issue that has me perplexed. If I run the HOT water fully open it works fine. After it has been opened a while the pressure drops slightly and it starts banging and the water flow pulses. If I wait 15 minutes it works ok again for a bit. This does not happen with the cold water or with the handle centered on warm, ONLY HOT. This issue does not happen on the attached built in dishwasher or on any other faucet. Any guidance would be helpful.
Joey
Greg says: First let me apologize in advance for being rude, faucets today made in China and sold cheap in home centers are problematic. I deal with these issues everyday. What you have is a faucet that is not thermally stable. The plastic they use in China is the cheapest in the world. Then there is the pot metal that does the same. Then they leak inside the body and get water under the sink. In a more civil manner I suggest buying a better faucet.Again let me apologize for my disposition , some of these faucets will last 4 yrs. or possibly more, but the vast majority are problematic and I have not found a way to fix them. So I replace them...
I have a Moen two handle faucet in our downstairs bathroom sink that does not drip - drip leak, but leaks with a surge when we flush an upstairs toilet or turn on an upstairs faucet. How do I fix this?
JLF
Greg says: John,You likely have surging in water pressures. What is the static water pressure in your building? I have videos on how to find out...
Hey Greg, first of all I would like to say thanks for the videos that you have posted. They have been a lot of help. I was hoping for some clarification and advice if I may. In one of your videos, you pulled a ball of roots that had gone into the drain pipes through the wax ring under the toilet. To prevent this from reoccurring, you used copper sulfate around the wax ring. What I'm not clear about and I don't think it was mentioned, was the type of material the flange and pipes were made of. I guess what I'm trying to get at, would it be safe to use copper sulfate on material that is not made out of plastic? What if you have cast iron pipes, would you still be able to use copper sulfate on the surface of the pipes without corroding and ruining the pipes? If that is a possibility, what would you suggest an alternative to copper sulfate when applying them to the surface of non-plastic material?
Thanks,
Greg says: To my knowledge copper sulfate does not harm any plumbing fixture. The copper sulfate is best put between the pipe and the concrete floor. This is either plastic or cast iron, no issues.Hey Gregg, firstly thank you for your help. I'm the guy who has the issues with older Delta shower valve, I changed two of them in my house, the first one worked like a champ, the second one is still giving me problems, both ( purchased at Home Depot, the kits for the older ball system) I think they are stainless steel, I changed plastic grommets and springs and I'm confident they are install right, then installed new ball tithing to hand tight only, then the adjusted the plastic race for handle firmness. It's still leaking after I took it apart several times. Can you please tell me what else I might try, thanks Thomas
Thomad
Greg says: What is the water pressure at the house?Greg, I use a Navien CH240 ASME combi boiler for heating and domestic heating in a cottage. Unit was installed about 4 years ago and I am quite happy with performance with this single exception: when in heating mode and a call for domestic hot is made [open a hot water faucet] a single loud bang occurs within the Navien. My temporary solution: turn off the heating before using the domestic hot water. I believe the Navien uses a 3-way valve for switching between modes and when there is a call for domestic that valve shuts down the flow on the heating side. Perhaps it is that valve switching that forces a sudden pressure change that in turn causes the single loud bang. The bang does not reverberate in a way that I associate with a water hammer, but it must be something similar.
Would an arrestor type devise solve the problem? Where should it be located?
[well water, filtered, pump, well tank 40/60 psi, expansion tank, check valve, pressure relief valve installed.]
Gordon
Greg says: Gordon,I think Navien can answer that better than I can, sorry, I am a Californian plumber, not an expert in combi systems.
Replaced Delta shower guts in one handle shower, but still running water. I did the one up stairs no problem ,but one down stairs still leaking bad.
Thomas
Greg says: I need more info. house water pressure, age of valves, if tub n shower of tub, or shower, when you say leaking bad, did you tighten the adjustment ring in the dome nut? Did you get the springs and cups in well? Is the ball stainless steel? did you replace it?We have a downstairs shower head that runs in the off position when the master bath hot faucet is running. It is a shower stall with no bathtub. I tried all the other faucets in the house, hot and cold, but this issue only happens when we run the master bathtub hot water.
Rich
Greg says: If a shower head runs when the valve that controls it is off, the valve is leaking. If that valve is a tub & shower valve, then the diverter is allowing the water to divert to the shower head and not all out of the spout. In that case, the diverter is stuck partially closed. So now my question is, is this offending valve a tub & shower valve or are you talking about two different fixtures in the same bath room? As well I need to know the water pressure and age of the building.I'm remodeling a guest bath including the tub/shower. I want to have the tub spout, the shower head and a hand-held shower head. Is it best to use a tub spout with a diverter and then a diverter valve (2-way??) to select either the shower or the hand-held when not filling the tub? Or, is it best to go right from the temperature mixing valve to a diverter (3-way??) that controls all three outlets?
Rick Heller
Greg says: Rick,The outlets of the tub/shower valve are up & down, the flow is directed down, if the spout is stopped. the flow is diverted to the path of more resistance, the head. he same can be done on the pipe up to the head by using a diverter valve in the wall. Or cheaper a diverter assembly on the shower arm. The question is do you want the hand held head on the hose to attach to the wall, or the shower head arm.
Dear Greg,
I recently removed all of my 100 year old radiators from my house. I love radiant heat, but I did not want to deal with removing those dirty suckers, sending them to be sandblasted and powder-coated when I could replace them with low-profile cast iron baseboard radiators that take up virtually no space in my old house. So I took on this huge project and replaced all of the case iron pipes as well and have now run 3/4" Pex in place. Now I have two problems.
1st: The old boiler I have does not go below about 170-180, whereas I would prefer it to be around 120-150. Can I get a new thermostat control for my Crown Aruba boiler or do I need a new boiler.
2nd: The boiler occasionally climbs up over 180 and then the pressure suddenly rises from the normal 10-20psi up to 30psi+ and then blows the pressure valve. Since this only happens occasionally after the thermostat turns off from up upstairs it does not seem to be a problem with the fill valve psi. I am thinking there is a problem with the expansion tank, but perhaps it is because the Pex is getting too hot? Any ideas on these issues would be greatly appreciated.
scubapete
Greg says: Peter,What you did was remove a needed part of a system, a system that is designed to use cast iron radiators. PEX is great piping, but I would never put 180 degrees on it. The boiler and the piping and the radiators are a system. This is something that plumbers study and train for many years to pass a test to be qualified to work on. A new condensing tankless heater is likely your fix. But, the controls are very important. Impossible for me to give you a "Buy this" and you are fixed. I strongly suggest a licensed hydronic contractor finish this project for you. I agree, the new baseboard radiators are best, I agree PEX piping is best, but the third part of your new system is a new correctly matched tankless unit with controls to drive the system.
tapped into existing hot and cold supply lines to install new replacement shower mixing valve. Shut main water valve off to do this. WHen turned back on, water from hot side in different shower on the same floor (second) is coming out luke warm while hot water is hot from all other faucets in the house. After leaving other shower off for a while, hot water comes out hot for an instant and then turns and stays luke warm. Can't figure out why this would happen.
frank rizzo
Greg says: Water is crossing over thru the new valve. Install a check valve on the new valve and your fixed. The shower valves I install are not cheap ones, they have integral stop checks in the body!Question
Tub faucet, one handle control, Moen ,new condition. When we turn it on the water ones out of the shower head and the tub spout at the same time. The tub spout has no effect on the problem. Upon removal of tub spout, the water still comes out the shower head and the tub fill pipe. Any ideas on the problem?
Don
Greg says: Is the moen valve new? if so is it installed up side down?In your demo on under the bath sink to recirculate hot water back into the cold, what is the number on the pump.What pump do I need for a 50/60ft run?
I would like to know Brand and pump # to know what to order.
The distance from hot water tank ie 50/60ft. one way.
I enjoyed your demo; but don't know how and what to order.
Please advise!!!!!
Jerry Thrower
Oklahoma City , Ok.
Jerry Thrower
Greg says: Jerry,Many companies sell pumps, several pump control systems exist. All have advantages and disadvantages. The gothotwater.com site has a great product list and many options. There are systems that pump hot water that causes heat loss causing fuel expense to re heat that loss and different controls do less than others and cost more. $225. up to $900. for the equipment. This is not just bean counting, its complex. Study options at the site that sells the on demand system.
I tried twice to send pictures to you but it comes back as un-deliverable. do you have another email address I can send pictures to?
This message was created automatically by mail delivery software.
A message that you sent could not be delivered to one or more of its recipients. This is a permanent error. The following address(es) failed:
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Liona Shareing
Greg says: My cell # 760-788-2889Hi Greg, I have a problem with the flapper in my toilet. I replaced it a few months ago and when I flush it usually goes down, but sometimes it sticks in the up position (which has cost me 3 times my normal water bill last month)
Do you have an easy solution as to what is the problem with it and how to fix it? My toilet is an old American standard without the bulb and the flapper is a rust orange color.
thank you
Liona
Liona S
Greg says: Liona,Flappers in old Am Std. toilets are difficult. The existing flapper or even the one before that are not original and the flush lever has a relationship with the flapper. The correct flapper is the issue. Can you send a picture of the tank insides?
hi Greg
Amazing web site. But heres a problem Im having in my head.
I want to redo my basement floor bathroom and all. If i remove the toilet downstairs will the toilet upstairs drain through the basement toilet drain and ruin my flooring project? Im sure it will.... and if you say it does how can i avoid this.
thanks in advance
Mike
mike
Greg says: Mike,There might be a blockage in the downstream drain that would cause the downstairs floor toilet flange to be flooded, but the question is, is there a gravity drain for the lower toilet, or a lift pump AKA ejector? If they both drain into the same gravity drain and it is not blocked now and stays clear removing the toilet will not cause a blockage. A toilet sitting on the floor flange does not hold back a blockage or upstairs water. There are 3" and 4" expanding plugs people use to seal off the floor flanges for toilets. Get one and no worries.
Hi Greg,
I just bought a condo I moved in a few weeks ago I have been using the guest bathroom shower since I moved in because the master shower has no enclosure the people who sold us this condo used a shower curtain but he did all the work himself on the home & I am scared with the way he did the walls I will end up with mold so have been using the other shower but since I moved in the handle has been broken it's missing a screw & another part I was able to get it to work not at its hottest but enough to get me through the shower. Now it is no longer working so I had to use the master shower there is an old rain shower head in there the previous owners had it basically facing where the water would hit the the wall & corner of the shower I took a shower but moved the head so the water would flow on top of me but the shower filled up with water a lot almost like a bathtub it was above my feet not quite to my ankles but if I would have stayed in there longer it probably would have. The pressure does come out very strong in there I assume that is why they had it facing the wall but I still do not think it should be filling up that high it drains with no problem once I turn the water off so I know the drain is clear. I am not sure what to do about this somebody has told me maybe getting a gooseneck showerhead would help this way the water will distribute everywhere or more evenly. What do you think? There were several other things that need to be fixed that I was not aware of till I moved in so I've had a few people come to do estimates none were Plumbers they were Handyman company's one of the things are the holes where all the plumbing is are exposed I wanted them closed up & covered well 2 of the guys were in shock & said there should be copper pipes or metal pipes something like that but they said this guy used a transmission hose or some type of auto part instead. The shut of valves are there but not where you can really get to them easily. This is behind both bathroom sink vanities I was wondering if that would have anything to do with the water in the shower filling up. Thank you so much in advance. Your website is amazing by the way.
Nicole
Nicole
Greg says: Nicole,Your in deep do do, many issues, the issues need to be cleared up using terminology that is common to me. A ph. call is better so I can ask for more clear answers. Photos are good as well to my cell and only ph. 760-788-2889. Drains need to drain as fast as the shower head sprays water. 1/4" of water on floor is max. The heads are a separate issue in of them selves. The shower valve that turns the water on and sets temp is another separate issue. The enclosure is another. We need to divide and conquer. I will be on my cell with a blue tooth tomorrow as well with my smart ph. that you send pix to.
Hi,
The sprout part of my kitchen sink tap has broken off, its a mono block tap with a swan like neck, the join has broken and there does not seem to be any thread to either end, do i need to replace the entire tap or can i find a new sprout and remove the plastic part that is at the end of the existing end and just join up, thanks in advance
Ray
Greg says: Ray,Thousands of faucets exist, most made in China using the cheapest materials. I stopped repairing faucets yrs. ago. We live in a world of $120 faucets that are not worth $50, but to get a real faucet it costs $500 or more. The industry does not make any standard faucet spouts or such. So if you want a real faucet you need to know what functions you want and what finish you want and how many handles etc. Then how many holes in the counter it mounts to do you want to use and if you have 3 holes, what to do with the extra holes if you use the better method of just a single hole.
I have an old tub spout with the logo ZA or SA in a circle on the underside of the spout, the name appears to be Eastern European. When I turn on the tub and pull up the diverter, there is a loud hammering which eventually goes away. There is no leaking at the spout when the shower is on, just the hammering. I've tried to find a set screw, but there is only copper pipe showing thru the rectangular hole under the spout. I tried turning the spout, but it won't budge. Anything I can do other than call a plumber?
Thanks for your help.
Val
Greg says: The spout is screwed onto a male adapter at the end of the copper and was not a wise thing unless the copper tube was type L or K. The thinner copper tube type M may twist and deform. I would use a hot air heat gun on the end of the spout to loosen the threaded joint and unscrew it.Having contractors redo a shower after I tore out old tile etc.
They turned off water, as well as turning off water intake to gas water heater; hooked up new Pex lines and have run lines to new Delta universal shower valve for Delta T17 series mounting controls. Currently fitted with test plug until after shower walls are put in place on top of current sheet rock.
Now since water is turned back on, the water throughout the house does not get as hot as it did before. Even with hot water heater turned up to hottest (scalding) setting, the water in kitchen and other bathroom is warm but not really hot, running hot water only.
Gas company technician came to check out the water heater and said it is fine. He thinks the contractors probably managed to switch a line, allowing cold water to mix in with the hot water from the heater.
Contractors have been back and say all the lines are connected properly under the house. Still no resolve. What is the chance lines in wall connected to rough in Delta valve could be connected wrong and causing this kind of issue?
JO
Greg says: Possibly water is crossing over in shower valve. shower valve should have isolation valves on the hot and cold inlets. If not add them.I lost water pressure in the whole house kitchen hall bathroom laundry room pretty much to nothing but in the master bathroom my water pressure is fine could it be the pressure tank
sa
Greg says: If water pressure exists anywhere in the house, the pressure tank is working. One pump and tank can not supply water to any one faucet and not another. Flow restrictions in faucet screens are likely the cause, remove the aerators and clean. If there is a tub spout check that, as tub spouts have no screens.Let me knbow if this works
Hi Greg,
So I moved into a new house about a year ago. I noticed that when I run the bath tub (high water flow) or run more than one water source simultaneously (ie take a shower AND run a sink at full flow) that it creates a very loud water hammer. This is strange because my understanding was that water hammer occurs when a source is shut off (toilet valve). I drained out all of the pipes by opening every single faucet, shower, bath, outdoor spigots and flushing toilets, running dishwasher, and running the washing machine while opening the bleed valve in the basement.
Once it was completely drained, I sealed the bleed valve and turned on the water. I then turned off all the valves/faucets moving from the the 1st floor to the 2nd floor.
This did not fix the problem. I then attempted to adjust the water pressure at the pressure regulator. I noticed that if I turned the pressure all the way down the hammering slowed down and then stopped. However, the pressure was too low. I then went the opposite direction and turned it all the way up. As it got higher the hammering slowed down and then stopped. I kept the pressure on the high setting and all was fine for a week. Then the hammering started again. I turned the pressure up a bit higher and it stopped again. Another week passed and it began again.
Not sure what to do.
David
Greg says: You need a new regulator. They last about 10 yrs. some less, some more. Also velocity causes water noise as well as shutting of a valve. Best to make sure all the air is out of the pipes after changing the regulator. I have videos on this.I have fitted the shower on my new house sunddenly I found out the previous owner has the cap on the hot water pipe for the shower by the hot water tank
Luu
Greg says: If in fact the capped pipe at the water heater is to the hot side of the new shower valve, insulate the line if you can and hook it up. I have no way of seeing what you have to suggest more.We have a shower hob in a demountable unit, that is designed to fit with walls on three sides. Its fitted in the corner of a larger room instead - so it has a raised edge on one of the two free edges. Can that edge (meant to seal behind wall cladding) be cut down and resealed at the lower level? Its fibreglass I believe. Cost is the big issue- Can't really afford to replace the cladding (lamnipanel) if I try to pull out the shower base for a corner unit, or the special flooring if I go for a true level entry one.
The reason it must be cut down is its a trip hazard because the toilet is immediately beside it.
JI
Greg says: You will need to send me a picture, either to this location, or to e mail, greg@ramonasplumber.com, or to my cell 760-788-2889.I am having a problem with my bathtub faucet leaking. I have had the inner cartridge changed on my single knob push and pull faucet and now it is leaking again. However, somehow my hot water and the cold water have reversed, so to use the hot water, you have to turn the knob to the cold side. I am aware that the cartridge needs replaced, but I am concerned about the reversed cold and hot. Would replacing the cartridge fix that? Prior to the faucet being replaced last time, the water started coming through my wall below my toilet tank, instead of coming out of the faucet. Help??? I have been trying to reach several plumbers in our area, but nobody has called back.
Sherri
Greg says: Sherri,What brand and model is your shower valve? Some have a rotational option to reverse the hot & cold. Just rotate the stem and replace the handle. Parts must me made by the original Mfgr. Not just made to fit the brand. What is your water pressure? If your having a leak problem often it is caused by pressures over 80 PSI.
I have a 3 valve shower that is about 50 yrs old I have found new replacement stems and whole units I have installed all three without leaks. when I finally turned it on everything worked like a charm without leaks awesome but when I turn the shower valve to run the water out of the shower head it comes out so so but it never stops running like crazy out of the spout. I re-removed the shower valve and reassembled looked inside to see if I found a diverter but no luck I did removed the spout which is clear but no sign of any another part.my question is can I buy a spout with a diverter and if so how do I turn the valve???Please I need help thank you Jo-Ann
Jo-Ann
Greg says: What brand valve is it, and yes a diverter spout will do...Yes, it is a Delta. We are trying to replace the valve, but can't get
it out and thought maybe we could if we can get the trim plate off.
This particular plate doesn't have screws holding it in so I don't know
if there is a spring loaded mechanism or what. But we need to get the
cartridge out. The valve is leaking...
Debbie
Greg says: Send me a picture of the trim plate, handle area.I have a delta victorian T17 series shower valve and trim. All of the pictures online show the trim is held in by screws, but mine doesn't have screws and I can't get the trim plate off to get the valve out. Any suggestions on how to remove the trim? Thanks.
Debbie
Greg says: The trim plate might not be needed to service the valve, what are you needing to do to the valve? What is the pressure in the house if it is leaking, what is the reason your working on it. All valves have a manufacture, all valves may look alike and in fact are different. Are you sure your valve is Delta, it says Delta on it?I have a moentrol valve. I am trying to replace the trim kit but the old cast medal rotational limiter appears stuck. I removed to screw but it will not come off by hand. Can I use a handle puller to get it off the cartridge?
Mike P.
Greg says: Mike, the part is sold at many hardware stores if you ruin it, yes a wheel puller is what is used when they are stuck on. I assemble all my work with a lube that prevents this......The cold water bath tap runs brown when first turned on and no other tap in the house is doing that
George
Greg says: George, How old is house, what pipe material is the house piped with, what brand is the faucet is it a single handle or one handle for each temp.Hi I have a question both my handheld shower sp;racers drip constantly, do I need a plumber or is this an easy fix not sure if buying a new one is the answer. Thankyou
Virginia
Greg says: Virginia,Shower heads and tub spouts do not leak, the valves do, the water just comes out of the head or spout. Like a garden hose, if it runs, the hose bib is not closed. What brand and nodel and vintage are your valves? What is the water pressure? These are needed to correct the problem(s). Send a picture...
I a trying to replace the cartdrige of my bathroom Moen faucet. I can even start the job because I already tried all my hex keys but none fit the screw locking the faucet top lever. I was told it was a 2.5 mm hex key but id does not work. I checked all the other faucets in my house and it is the same thing. I don't have a tool to remove the top of the faucet. Any help here?
Thank you,
Walter
Walter
Greg says: Walter, you say bathroom Moen, shower or Lav.? When you say top lever, you mean handle? so many Moen faucets exist over the last 50 yrs....Likely if the handle is stuck on, just cut it off and replace it with a new one...
Send a picture? or use terms used in the Moen parts desc.
My handheld shower head recently began to only drizzle water. I was worried that maybe it was a plumbing issue, so I removed the shower head and then turned on the water to see if there was flow. The water flowed fine, so I went and bought a replacement shower head (another handheld). When I installed the new head, it did the same thing. Again, I removed it and checked the water flow. It was flowing just fine.
I wondered if the pressure was too low for the water to travel through the hose of the handheld, but water pressure really didn't seem to be an issue.
Do you know of any reason why this would happen?
BSM
Greg says: There is a restriction in the adapter to the shower hose, or the flow is restricted somewhere in the diverter if one is there. I do not use diverters for that reason. Send me a picture of the unit as it is on the wall and I will direct you to the flow restriction. 760-788-2889I watched the Moen posi temp shower cartridge replacement video. I noticed you did not lube the cartridge. Is this something you recommend?
ECW
Greg says: I'm sorry, yes, I do recommend lube with a silicone paste lube or other approved lube. I likely did lube it in a part of the video that was edited out to keep the videos short.My Delta A112 handheld shower is leaking because the small plastic treaded gasket is broken. Where can I get a replacement part?
AMR
Greg says: Arlene,Go to delta.com repair parts or the shower products section find the unit see the parts explosion and you will see the part # to order there.
Ok so while the water was running in the bathtub I accidentally pulled down on the spout which activated the shower diverter and shut the water off from the spout. The problem is we have no shower connected to the tub and I can't find a way to cut the diverter off so the water will flow through the tub spout again. Help?
Jeff Coverdale
Greg says: JeffThe spout diverter s just a diverter for the water to be forced up to the shower head, the pressure holds it closed, force the diverter loose and your set. However with out a shower head, you do not need the diverter spout, so remove it and replace it with a spout only. What make is the spout a Delta pull down type?
Needed coffee, answered my own question. For anyone else wondering, turning the water back on to the whole house without touching the disassembled wall shower faucet is what I Love Lucy episodes were based upon...
(but I now have some coffee)
Teasister
Greg says: Nancy/Lucy,Thanks your fun and don't feel bad, the reason Lucy was so popular is her & Ricky were all of US, as in USA.
I posted earlier about my moen shower nozzle not working due to, it looks like, the handle adapter (black plastic) that sits in front of the limiter (white plastic) piece. Where do I find these parts? Now if the entire moen 1222B replacement part comes with these two other plastic pieces then I'm good, but I don't think it does according to his picture, but and also if this 1222B replacement will fix the black plastic from obviously slipping each time I put it back in the correct position then I'm good, if not I'm screwed cause I can't find these two plastic replacement pieces. I need help and I've looked at this demonstration video 4 times hoping I could here this needed info with no luck. I hope someone can help
Debbie
Greg says: Debbie,Sorry I did not see the prior post, no the other parts do not come with the cartridge, Moen on line has the parts and the Moen toll free # on the site can get you to the order desk.
When you say "shower nozzle" I can only assume you mean the valve or handle, as the term nozzle is not used in shower parts. Closest thing is the shower head. But the shower head is a couple feet above the valve and handle and the parts in the valve assembly that limit the rotation of the handle thus limit the temp.
Well I saw the video of how to replace your moen single control shower handle but the problem with mine is not the medal workings, it seems to be the black plastic housing that the shower handle fits on. Each time I remove the handle and refit the black piece that the handle screws onto with the allen wrench then it somehow doesn't hold. Problem is where would I find this piece to replace. Like I said it's not the medal workings thats not working it's the plastic that doesn't seem to be holding it when you turn the handle?
Debbie
Greg says: Debbie,I found your first question.... Moen handles can be difficult to re assemble, you need to use an allen driver and the screw needs to be tightened up in the correct position. The screw that screws into the end of the brass stem of the cartridge needs to be tight so to hold the handle adapter. Then the handle needs to align onto the adapter before the allen screw is tightened. This handle system you have is not a simple one and if you call Moen tech support they might walk you thru it.
Hi my name is James and i need help i have a old style shower that i'm trying to fix and something broke a small round metal ring about a half to 1 inch long with a small lip going around the whole thing it's a small piece that goes behind the shower cartridge into the pipe but since it's broken i can't fix the shower how would i go about fixing it?
James Ulmer
Greg says: You need to call me 760-788-2889, your written description leaves me with more questions...I didn't want to take a chance with a cartridge not fitting properly, or being poorly manufactured, so I definitely used Moen (OEM). The first one lasted well over 40 years and that was the best recommendation possible. I am a 74 year old woman and I expect it to outlast me!
DealD
Greg says: You changed your own cartridge that was 40 yrs. old and it pulled out and all is well?GO Girl! I am happy for both of us, thanks for watching and being a DIY'er
Fantastic site. Love reading how problems get solved and adding to my knowledge base. Just want to let you and others know how my problem was solved. After 44 years the Moen one-handled shower cartridge was replaced yesterday. That made the original tub spout diverter drip more water when the shower was turned on than it had before. It was a threaded one and would not unscrew, just kept spinning around. We pried out the diverter, made a saw cut on both sides in the middle of the spigot, and it came right off. Loads of crud deposits inside the spigot and around the threads. Cut the threaded end off to replace with slip-on spigot. Took less than 20 minutes. Tomorrow I will shop for a new spigot with diverter, a longer one this time.
DealD
Greg says: Thanks for the kind words, I enjoy hearing from the DIY'ers. Yes, slip on spouts are the best. On the cartridge use only by Moen for Moen parts. Spouts are optional...My kitchen pull-out faucet hose is leaking,but other than that the faucet and spray head work fine. I want to replace the hose, but I cannot find the brand of the sink and parts are very limited at the plumbing stores. I purchased a Pfister 920048A Pull Out Spray Head on Amazon.com and it looks just like the original spray head. However, the connector is a little bit too big for the pipe fixture. The pfister spray head replacer has a 3/8 inch mail threaded connector. I am considering purchasing a quick connect compression coupler to connect the new Pfister to the pipe fixture, but I am concerned if there is anything I don't know that could cause problems. For example, if my faucet is not a Pfister could there be a pressure problem that would cause major disaster if I install a Pfister spray head and hose on a non-pfister faucet body? I definitely do not want exploding pipes, faucet, or sprayhead, not do I want low water pressure. thanks.
Greg says: Terra,Brand matters not in pressure of the water. The brand does matter in the way the hose connects to the faucet and to the head. There is a common thread that is used to screw the head to the hose for most, but the way the head nests into the spout body is different on most all faucets. The idea of not knowing the brand and model of a faucet and buying parts parts for it is not a good one. I suggest that most faucets are now made in China regardless of name/brand and very cheap in quality and price therefore a disposable product. A professional faucet is $300 to $1500, that is what I pay. As a result if parts are needed an online factory parts view and accessibility is 24/7/365. Exact parts are best and OEM.
Home centers that sell these imported faucets are selling replacement faucets not parts for the most part.
Have a Delta shower/tub faucet that cartridge was recently replaced. I was turning it off one day and the knob broke past the stopping point and now it goes off when I turn it but if I don't place it just right it goes farther and water starts running again. Took it apart but can't seems to find where it broke or what I did??
Ashley Floyd
Greg says: Google the valve and look at the parts explosion you will see the splined rotation limiter.I have a combo boiler and thermostatic shower. A few months ago the water starting running cold half way through a shower. The. Would beat up again, no I have no hot water from my shower unless it's on full heat which is to hot to get in too and obviously after a minute it over heats and goes cold the hot then cold etc. All other taps including the bath have hot and cold water as normal. I've tried changing the shower bar but it still the same so the problem isn't the shower it's self.many ideas
Tracey
Greg says: Tracey,The thermostatic valve cartridge is sticking likely from hard water. The valve needs service. What make & model is it? might have a flow limitation.
Hello All,
I have well water for my home and I recently installed a RO/UV system after my softener then a retention tank, a booster pump and pressure tank with a "new system bypass" to still allow direct softener water to my home, if needed. Learning to sweat all those fittings was an experience, but its all good now with no leaks.
My questions are around the retention tank where I have a vacuum breaker valve.
1) How does the air that enters my system via the vacuum break leave the system?
2) Do I need another pressure relief valve on the retention tank to allow this air to escape? Or some Air-Vacuum combination valve? I found some of these online,but they are for sprinkler systems and have no pressure ratings.
3) Any recommendations for size?
My fitting will be 1/2" F-NPT, but I can change that. My booster will not be pulling more than 4-5GPM (with two showers running). Most lines in my home are 3/4" copper. The pump draws from the retention tank at 1" but is reduced to 3/4" at its exit.
thanks for all the help
FirstHome
Problem: slowly decreasing water pressure in the hot water line only. This problem is experienced at all locations in the house: bathrooms, kitchen, laundry washer, etc.
What have I tested?
1. I have tested the water flow going into the water heater by hooking a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater and I get full high pressure out.
2. I have tested the hot water out on the water heater by attaching a garden hose to the hot outlet on the top of the water heater and I get full high pressure out.
Other info.
I have 3/4 inch copper line into the water heater. Same 3/4 out of the water heater for the first 7 yard or so where the lines divide up and go to the various faucets etc in the house. Those lines are 1/2 inch copper or PEX.
What to do?
I suspect that there is a clog somewhere in the 3/4 inch copper, but how do I clear it out? Or do I simply have to replace it?
Jake Enns
Greg says: Jake,You give me more than most people asking questions, but there is still variables possible in various places. Generally the braided flex connectors are a bottle neck for flow and I would remove any that are in the system. There are mixing valve that do what you describe, there are objects that flow move and block fittings. Solder chunks rocks and mineral build up. The injection of fast and large volumes of nitrogen gas or CO2 using full port hoses into angle stops towards Wtr. Htr. can blow out debris. Using panty hose or socks on the discharge ends will catch any debris and show you that you have won! Many questions exist, how old the pipe is, what size and how far and to what restriction does flow have is what time,,,,,,,,
I bought a Danco 10347 cartridge to replace a Delta RP19804 cartridge for Delta 1300/1400 series tub faucets.
Do NOT do this. The water flowed fine but my pipes started banging when you turned water off around the house.
I bought the Delta RP19804 cartridge, installed it and the banging stopped.
No need to call a plumber.
Nashville Guy
Greg says: Nashville Guy,I too recommend using only OEM parts. I am clicking to approve this statement because I agree and I approve most comments, unless they are nasty, very few...
I have a single kitchen faucet with a pull down spray handle. The faucet rotates left and right but immediately returns to the center on its own and will not stay over the left or right side. Why.
Faye
Greg says: That is a mfgr. question, not a plumbing one, there is no plumbing code or standard for faucet or fixture behavior that is not health/safety related. Well, except water conservation, but that is actually necessary.The weight on the pull out hose or the ability of the free fall of that hose below the sink may have an effect... Use a sheet of cardboard to separate the obstruction if any from the hose as it slides up and down from pull out. What make and model is the faucet?
Hi,
I wanted to upgrade the trim in our showers so I bought a universal trim kit for Delta shower faucet controls made by Danco and sold by Lowes. My 1978 valve and stem aren't compatible with the kit, but it's open and there's no taking it back. (This was an attempt to forestall replacing the whole thing with new stuff because the current valves work great, they just look bad and dated in our remodeled bathroom). So, my idea was to buy a valve body only that will fit the kit. It says that it will work with Series 600 valves. (fyi, my shower has the diverter in the faucet (which I already changed and it works fine). My current setup is for copper but I saw a great video for changing to pex and using Sharkbite adapters for the copper to pex conversion. I could sweat the pipes but I've had good luck with Sharkbite units, so that was my plan. Here's my issue: I can't find which valve is from the Series 600 or even if they are still made! Delta seems to have a Universal Valve body called R10000. Is that made to replace everything before, or what? Any help you can offer is very appreciated. I'm near Memphis, TN. Thanks... Ron
Ron
Greg says: Ron,Complete trim kits are available OEM for that valve from Delta last I checked. Danco is junk. The 600 series valve the original Delta, is very re trim able. The spout can be a non diverter if you have the diverter in the body of the valve. The dome nut the valve collar the handle all is available in chrome.
The up grade is supposed to fit the body you have, I have not done it myself yet. Call Delta they will help you.
Yes shark bites can work well, I use different valve bodies than Delta now a days, but the old stand by is what you have.
Hi,
My kitchen sink sprayer is not working correctly. I have spent the last couple of days watching DIY videos as to what may be wrong and how to fix it. So I have taken the sprayer apart, cleaned the pieces, cleaned the aerators, etc etc to no avail. The problem I am having is that I can press the spray handle and water will spray out once and then stop. I can wait several seconds, press it again and it will spray again and then stop again. I know everything is cleaned so there are no residue blockages in the parts I can get to... unless it's something at the end of the hose that connects under the sink.....I think you call it a water divertor or the piece that controls where the water goes?? I don't know the plumbing terms..lol But anyway.....if that's the piece that's causing problems, is the piece universal or brand specific? Thank you and have a great day.
Tamara Kelly
Greg says: Tamara,You are correct, you need the diverter valve in the faucet spout. They are not universal. Some are not even available. What make is the faucet and how old is it ?
I'm trying to find out if using push on fittings is ok to use on baseboard hot water heat lines. 3/4" Is it?
Rick
Greg says: Rick,if the fittings are rated for the tubing you are using. Look on the installation instructions, Are you using copper, PEX? you ask a general question with not enough info. to answer. Push fittings are not all created equal, and all installers may be created equal they are not trained in plumbing equal as well. Clean cuts are a must, and flushing out air from the loop is a MUST. just putting a fitting on may be fine but hydronic systems are very complex and above even many licensed plumbers training level!
My tenant added a wye shutoff valve so he can connect 2 hoses on an outdoor frostproof spigot. The problem is that the pipe froze and resulted in a leak. Can you please confirm that if the frostproof faucet is first shutoff with the wye valve in the closed position this would result in water trapped in the frostproof valve pipe and when subjected to below freezing temperatures would result in a frozen pipe and a leak?
Greg says: Yes, any valve or even a hose left on a frost proof hose bib will cause water to be trapped it a frost proof bib. The Mfgr. clearly states this. The reason is the frost proof bibs need to drain the water out of the area that is subject to frost, a valve or even a hose with water trapped in it will restrict the draining.I'm in the process of replacing a leaky Delta tub faucet (single handle for hot and cold). I've removed all the pieces to try and replace the cap assembly or the seats, but the adjustment ring will not come off. I'm assuming it's either rusted stuck or someone used an adhesive to seal it. Suggestions?
Mike
Greg says: Mike,Is the adjustment ring brass or plastic? you can either replace the dome with a new ring or soak in vinegar if you choose. Hard water is likely why it is stuck.
Would installing a wye shutoff valve on an outdoor spigot result in freezing the pipe?
Greg says: It is not the shut off it would be the water inside the pipe if the shut off was in the off position and it was on the outlet of a frost proof hose bib. Is the hose bib you are concerned about a frost proof one? do you live where it freezes and therefor frost proof hose bibs are instaslled?Help!! I recently change the cartridge in my Moen tub faucet all went well until I showered and it was piping hot 🔥 There is almost no cold water coming out so I rotated the brass stem and it did not help 😟So then I Took the new cartridge out and looked in the hole to notice the old rubber piece from the old cartridge was stuck in the hole where the water cold water comes out and I can't get it out any advice ? -mel
Melanie
Greg says: Hemostats or long screwdriver to clean out valve body before replacing and cartridge, as well use only made by Moen, not for Moen parts.Hi,my problem is there is no cold water coming from the tap in the laundry room,I have to use the hot on every wash.the washing machine is a new one so I don't think is the machine.the cold water is barely coming out of the tap.can u help me.then the kitchen faucet used to run good,until one morning I found out its barely running.please can you help.thanks
Jackie
Greg says: jacki,Clean the screen on the washing machine hose and the aerator on the kitchen faucet? try that and get back to me. Disconnect the hose from the faucet at the wall behind the washing machine!
Help my shower has very hot water. i turn it off for a couple minutes than back on and i cant get hot water! Water heater is fine and i get very hot water everywhere else. I wait another couple minutes and ithe shower is hot again. What could be causing this?
Karen
Greg says: Karen,Kinda like a car guy needs to know what brand and model, I too need to know more, send a pix here or to my cel, 760-788-2889. There is likely a balancing spool stuck or sticking on and off. I need to know the brand, such as Moen, or Delta, or price pfster, Kohler etc. single handle or 3 handle or 2 handle, how old 10 yrs, 20 yrs. old?
You stated: "A major cause of flapper failure is drop in bleach tablets and blue water tablets which damage all the rubber parts in the toilet tank, you should not use them."
I could not determine if the failure of the rubber flapper was bleach tablets or blue water tablets since no one in my house ever heard of them. However, I do remember the bottom of the bowl. ( DID YOU MEAN TANK?), A huge section near the flapper was too clean, another area was not, it was brownish color. Is that what you are talking about here?
Greg says: Angela,The color difference suggests no bleach/cleaner in tank but the chlorine and ammonia in the tap water creates chloramines that do the same, just not as fast. Also at low enough levels to allow the brownish slime to grow. Flappers decompose at any rate and every couple yrs. need replacing. If you feel the rubber of a new flapper vs the older one from in water for a couple yrs, you will see the age and deterioration. As for the clean spot, yes the old bleached spot will remain from a long ago bleach blob...
My Outdoor facucet leaks through handle when connected to Railbird Timer (for sprinkler system)
Only leaks when faucet is turned On.
This happens at two separate faucets with two different timer attached to it.
The faucet does not leak if the timer is detached from it.
Is this a back pressure caused by timer ?
The home is fairly new (2yrs old) so i don't suspect the faucet washers will worn out.
- R.T
R.T
Greg says: Yes, hose timers put back pressure on the stem, there are well made hose bibs that do not leak! new quarter turn hose bibs and best faucets are made in USA.I turned the hot water faucet in the bathroom and heard a pop then it was leaking from that knob I turned off the hot water underneath not sure what to do then when I turned on the cold faucet it began leaking underneath what could this be? Thanks so much really appreciate it!
Rhonda
Greg says: So much more info. is needed to advise, one issue is your water pressure could be too high. What is the water pressure? What make is the faucet? How old is it, if it is one of the made in China sold in home centers faucets, then it likely will leak in 4 or 5 yrs.We have a shower with a basic shower head and a shower head on a separate hose. Water is directed from one to the other with a diverter. The diverter also controls water flow generally. In neutral there is no flow, to the right it sends water to the shower head, to the left it sends water to the hose.
Beside the shower are two sinks. Here is the problem. There is no hot water coming fron the faucets unless the shower or the hose is turned on.
What do you make of that?
RAS
Greg says: There is a pipe with hot water to the lav. faucets? does water come out of that pipe? you may have a cold only supply to the sinks and the shower can cause a cross connection. All fixtures need to be tested at the pipe supply isolated hot then cold.American Standard Colony bathroom faucet is very, very slow when I turn on either hot or cold, or both, at the same time. I can't figure out how to get to the screen that filters the water supply from this faucet. Hate to pay a plumber to tell me I need to keep this screen cleaned. We have a lot of "stuff" coming in from our city water supply. I keep the kitchen faucet cleaned so I know this is true!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Carolyn neff
Greg says: Carolyn,The spout aerator has been cleaned? I know of no screens on the inlets. If they exist they are in the connection of the supply tubes to the faucet. Most all faucets include a screen in the aerator on the spout as well as a flow restrictor that gets debris in it. Just buy a new aerator and replace the old one. Aerators are less than $5.
I have a water pipe from the main water line that start outside the house, goes underneath into the crawlspace, comes right back out, goes up 2.5' and down again, back into the crawlspace and then runs to the the side of the house, outside again, up 1.5' and back down and in, right back to where it all started and from there runs to all the sinks and fixtures. Why and what would happen if you don't run it out of the house....twice?
Will
Greg says: Will,Possibly for a water treatment system that was in line but outside the house. Sometimes called a softener loop.
Wanting to remove electric water heater from out of my crawl space. I have a approx 3ft x 3ft closet area beside my shower. Wondering if okay to do there if electrical outlet is not near shower itself?
Greg says: Electric water heaters can be anywhere you have a hot and cold water pipe and 240 VAC. Unless you are willing to use a smaller 120 VAC water heater that will have half the water and will take twice as long to re heat. The power line is easier than the water usually.Wanting to remove electric water heater from out of my crawl space. I have a approx 3ft x 3ft closet area beside my shower. Wondering if okay to do there if electrical outlet is not near shower itself?
Jacquie
Greg says: That is to say, the closet is fine, it's the pipe and power that is the issue.Redid the whole well, new pipes, new pump water works to fill about 13 hugs then the pump over heats and stops.
Mrs plumber
Greg says: I need to know more, better call me, I could need to ask things like what gauge wire to pump, how many amps the pump requires, how far the wire is from the source of power too many things. Pumping and piping is a complex subject.Water not passing through the hose to the shower head only when loosening the thread ?1
Brian Rider
Greg says: Your going to have to explain your question. There are many things that could be present, I can not see what you have in your shower.ok, I am new to this plumbing stuff :) Anyways, the shower handle says Kingston. I am not sure if that is also the manufacturer of the valve, if there were a way I could send you a picture, I have it on my phone. anyways, I am thinking there is more than likely a clog somewhere in the copper pipe leading from the shower valve to the T where it connects with the rest of the plumbing. as I said, I took out the cartridge, and the rubber rings with the springs that were in the holes, and I only get a trickle of hot water through it. Now I have taken out the balance cartridge and it appears fine, dont see any corrosion and no clogs, I really hate to have to break out tile to disconnect the copper line and maybe that is what I will have to do?
Julia
Greg says: Julia,Kingston is sorry to say, not that good, but if the blockage is before the valve, matters not. As a pro plumber, I replace entire valve bodies in the wall with out removing more tile than is covered by the trim plate that goes to cover the hole behind the handle. A trained plumber can do this. Or from the back side of the wall. What is the back side?
Send pix to my cell. 760-788-2889.
We bought an old house about 5 years ago, we have two downstairs bathrooms and one upstairs. Have not used the shower upstairs until we had company and when you turn the shower on, you get cold water with a lot of pressure, and hot water just a trickle. This is the only place in the entire house, we have any issue with water pressure, and the sink and toilet are fine in that bathroom. I have pulled the shower handle off and it looks a lot like the Moen in-line rough-out compression valve. I took out the rubber gaskets and springs in the holes and when I turn on the hot water with the holes open, I still get just a trickle. The cold water full blast. we tried reverse blowing air through the line and with water off, I get water shooting out of the sink faucet, but nothing at all with the hot water. I took out the balance cartridge and it does not appear clogged up at all. Next suggestion>
Julia
Greg says: Julia,Moen has no springs, do you mean Delta? I am not understanding, “inline rough out compression valve” Compression valves are not made by Moen, and balancing valves are not compression either. Delta makes a valve having a balancing spool as does Moen. The Moen has the balancing and on off and temp. all in one cartridge. Delta has several. Delta uses springs and cups as a connection from valve body to the cartridge. The balancing spools jam up all the time. If you remove and leave out of the brass body the whole cartridge and turn the water back on hot and cold water should fly out of the valve body. does that happen? If so, you need a new cartridge.
I have a deck mount Grohe Roman tub filler. The hand shower diverted stopped working so Grohe sent me a replacement L/P Diverter cartridge part 45443000. My question is can I swap it out without having access to the underside of the deck. Essentially can I simply open / unscrew the top and swap or will the underside spin and fall into the wall.
Frank
Greg says: Frank, even I would need to look at the installation instructions, look at the valve exploded view online and see if it comes out of the top, it likely does.Hello we had good water pressure from our shower head but we recently replaced with a new modern medium size circle shower head. Now cant use hot and cold at same time. Turn hot on and when turn cold on even a smidge the hot water is gone
Sarah Hansen
Greg says: I need more info. Brand of valve in wall. Approx. year of mfg. water pressure in building, these things are what a plumber needs to know to solve problems.My wife & I just moved in to a custom built home on a public water supply. From day one the pressure seemed too high, I voiced my concern to the plumber but was assured it was normal. One month in the home and 2 outdoor faucets are leaking thru the weep hole when under pressure, 2 brand new garden hoses have began leaking at the connector where it crimps to the hose and when the toilets fill, they seem to be louder than in previous homes. On top of all that, I am worried that we may have a leak under the foundation as one of the flowerbeds seems to stay consistently damp when everywhere else is dry. The plumber was contacted when the outdoor faucets and hoses began leaking. His response was that the hoses were probably poor quality and the faucets weren't designed to have a hose with a sprayer attached to them, as to much pressure builds up and causes the anti siphon faucet to leak. The first thing I would like to accomplish is to get a pressure gauge and check the pressure coming in. Next I would like to confirm or rule out a leak, if I leave the pressure gauge attached and turn of the main supply valve wouldn't a drop in pressure indicate a leak? What is an acceptable amount of time for the pressure to hold to rule out a leak? Any other tips, tricks or advice is greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
Greg says: Jeremy,I have several videos on water pressure. Have you watched them? Do a static test on the house piping. Pressure needs to be less than 80 PSI. Recommended pressure is 50 PSI. Thermal expansion is also a source of pressure. Use a pressure gauge tell me what you find.
What would cause an outside faucet with vacuum breaker to lose it's pressure after a few seconds of use? If you let off for a while it will have pressure again for a short time then it loses pressure again.
Bill Smith
Greg says: It is broken, replace it.Hello
I've installed a sprinkler system with a couple impact heads running from my outside faucet with one of those orbit timers. When the sprinkler system is on. Hot water is coming out of the cold water tap on my master bathroom. I felt the cold water pipe on the hot water tank and it seems hot also. But some other washrooms / sinks seem fine.
Jason
Greg says: Jason,First off too much flow from a hose supply pipe is not a good idea. Is the water having to flow thru the hose bib, or is their a tee before the bib that supplies the sprinklers? If there is a tee before the bib, that allows too much water flow and will cause issues. Next, the hot water can be prevented from flowing backwards by installing a check valve, but I would rather know the reason the flow is going backwards. I suspect there is high pressure in the building. What is the static water pressure? I have a video on how to test that...
I live in a trailer and have turned off the water at the street. I don't have any water in any faucet or bathtub except one toilet continues to fill up and flush with no problem. How can that happen?
I have a leak somewhere in that bathroom, still trying to find the leak could it have anything to do with that toilet?
Susan
Greg says: Susan,You likely have not shut off the water all the way, the valve is likely letting enough water by to fill the toilet tank. The leak you refer to, how do you know you have one? high water bill, or water on the floor, or a dripping tub spout or what...
The handle of my toilet shut off valve just blew off. No one was using the toilet or even in the room. I shut the main water valve off and put the handle back on. I want to turn the main water valve back on but do I need to be concerned that it will blow off again? Any idea what might have caused it to randomly blow off in the first place?
Christine Metz
Greg says: The handle just turns on a valve, did the handle blow off or the valve? is the valve a compression type or a screw on? Or did the valve come apart? you give me little to go on. send a picture? Pressure exists 24/7, so matters not if it was used. You may have high pressure and need a pressure reducer valve on the whole house.I just replaced the hot water cylinder in my bathtub tap and now I'm getting no hot water. What could be wrong
Rob callahan
Greg says: Rob,Sorry for my being stuck on words, but cartridge is the term and what make and model? they are all different. Does the valve have built in stops? does the stem have limiters? c an you send me a pix?
After I use the garden hose for an extended period of time (e.g. watering the grass), I find my hot water doesn't work inside the house. Last night, I just turned off the main water supply and turned it back on again to make it work. Other times, it would just come back on its own. Had the hot water heater checked and all ok. Would you know what would cause this problem?
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff,You say the hot water dosent work, do you mean no water, or the water is cold? If water works, but the temperature doesnt, then the hot water has mixed into the cold and blended. The reason would be a crossover in the two pipes. Likely a re-circ line on the hot water pipe to the far fixture.
My shower is the old fashioned type where there is s lever on the tap that you pull up and it goes to the shower. The shower is the type that can be handheld if needed. Since renting here the pull up lever was so tight that it had to actually be pushed down to shut off. I used it one time, then next time the shower pressure was very weak and most of the hot water was still coming out of the tap. I now run out of hot water before I'm finished showering. What happened??
Ms. FixIt
Greg says: Merideth,The “tap” you refer to I assume is the Tub spout, another assumption is this that the tub spout is not new and hard water build up has caused this. Replace the spout and your fixed.
The cold water tap in my bath runs brown but all the other cold taps in the house run clear we have had the water company out they said the feed coming in is ok
George
Greg says: There is likely galvanized pipe in the piping to the tub valve, or out of the valve to the spout. Common for a house that was re piped for having galvanized pipe and the pipe to the shower or tub had no access, so the pipe was left.I live on the end unit of a long line of connected one bedroom aparts. This a substancially large apart. complex. My problem is that when it rains,my water in the (shower, tub, camode,faucet, well everything--turns an ugly yellomish color. I reported this to to complex and their responce is to run the hot water until the stream is clear. But then I can't take a hot bath e.t.c. Now I may be wrong, but this seems like a temporary solution to what might be an expensive progect if dealt with correctly. OH by the way: I receive city water, not water from a well or fed by a stream. One more thing:if I get a sample of the colored water--where could i have it cheched.It seems very unhealthy. Thank for your time,and I hope you can help me, in ANY way in this very frustrating issue.
Mike kreiser
Greg says: Mike,I do not see any connection to rain and city tap water, as they are not connected. Test the water at city or county health dept. Turbidity is the term for colored water. Turbidity is measured in NTU's there is a max amount allowed by EPA for safe potable water that the wtr. Dist. must adhere to.
Please keep me informed on the progress of this issue, this is a health issue.
Hi Greg,
I am renovating my bathroom and added a shutoff to the cold water supply so that I could work on the bathroom while the rest of the house still had water. My problem is that the water never stops flowing on the bathroom end. There was no real water pressure, just a very slow stream, little more than a drip. The new plumbing is now closed but if I turn a valve on I get a high pressure spurt, about a gallon of water, and then back to the low drip. Where is this water coming from? Is there hot water leaking into the cold system somewhere, and if so, how do I find it?
Thanks.
Sheldon.
Sheldon
Greg says: SheldonLikely from the hot side crossing over ... or the valve is not a ball valve and therefore it lets water past...
I had a shower dripping and replaced the cartridge, it took a small delta ball shaped cartridge with a set of three holes on the top and three holes on the bottom (I believe the top and bottom set of holes are interchangeable). I also replaced the spring and caps for the hot and cold and the rubber ring seal. When I put everything back together there were not leaks anywhere and my hot and cold water works but the water pressure is nothing compared to what it was before. Is there anyway to adjust something to get better water pressure? I am not sure if I screwed the cap on too tight or if that would have anything to do with it.. Thanks!
Nick
Greg says: Clean the shower head screen, likely blocked with debris...Might valve to turn on both hot and cold water for my bathroom tub has been difficult to turn to at the point that I can't turn on the water do you think from either corrosion or build up may have caused it to freeze or is there another way I can maybe troubleshoot this to get it working without replacing it
Erik b
Greg says: Erik,What make is it, how old is it, is it single handle or two or 3 handle? is it also a shower valve? does it push & pull out or just turn, if it just turns which way? Is this all of a sudden, or did you just move in to the place and do not know?
My Honeywell water heater is showing normal system operations. However, there's is water leaking from behind the control/ temp module. Please help.
Jennifer
Greg says: Jennifer,I need a picture, too many things are possible to say. Example Honeywell makes controls not water heaters, next you could have a boiler with a honeywell control not a water heater... Almost any water heating device could use a honeywell part.
My tub faucet handles broke and I TRIED TO REPLACE THEM AND NOTHING SEEMS TO FIT. I FINALLY GOT SOME UNIVERSAL ONES AND GONNA TRY THOSE BUT NOW THE WATER PRESSURE IS TERRIBLE. HOWEVER, I DID TAKE THE CARTRIDGE OUT BC I WAS GONNA REPLACE THEM, IS IT POSSIBLE I DIDN'T PUT THEM BACK IN RIGHT? PLZ HELP ASAP
Leigh Shelton
Greg says: Please call me, you need exact parts and you need to know and share more to do this. 760-788-2889Replaced a sump pump along with the two layers of bricks that had been inserted on the dirt bottom when the previous pump was replaced. Does this likely increase the life of the pump? On the other hand, would placing the pump (with intake on the top side of the base) directly on the dirt bottom make more of a difference in reducing basement seepage? Thanks.
Jim
Greg says: I can't tell by your description because variables exist. Send picture, The frequency of pump operation and the cycle time as well as the content of the water pumped is more of an issue. The pump bearings as well as the float type are an issue to life of pump. Need more info. to make a useable judgment.I have a 3 handle shower, and a few days ago the diverter popped out of the wall when I went to turn it, and the water was coming out of both the faucet and the showerhead(very low pressure from shower). We managed to get the diverter back in place, but now it won't turn at all and access to the shower is completely lost. I'm a working mom with a very busy schedule, and baths are not for me. Anyone know how I can fix this problem?
Harlee
Greg says: Harlee,What brand is the valve? can you send pictures to this site or to my cell 760-788-2889?
Hi there,
I just watched your video for how to replace a moen posi-temp valve. Thank you for posting a video! Last night for no apparent reason our single arm shower wouldn't turn on. The handle was kind of stuck and when my husband got it to move no water came on. The valve now turns (with pliers, no handle) but still no water. Our house is only 4 years old and we run kinetico water throughout. We will try to replace the valve tomorrow but what would be the reason for the malfunction so soon? Is this most likely to be solved by replacing the valve?
Thanks!
Allison
Allison
Greg says: Kinetico is a brand name, is the system a softener type system or a GAC system? Likely there is debris in the pipe/valve that can be from new const. or a subsequent repair to a broken water main.Pull out the cartridge, close the shower door, turn the water on while the valve is apart, flush the valve and pipes, re install with a new OEM (made by Moen) cartridge you will be fine.
We are not able to have water come out of the pex to fill our master bathroom toilet. All other faucets, showers and toilets are working properly. The toilet in the powder room, which is on the other side of the wall from the pex that is not sending any water is also working fine. I thought it might be the valve so I replaced it but when it still did not work, I removed the valve and no water came out of the pex.
Do you have any idea what could be causing this and what I might try to do to fix. I even worked a wire from an undone coat hanger up into the pex but that did not move any blockage (I believe) as the water still did not flow. I am totally at a loss and the guys at Lowe's even had no idea what it could be and if you do not either, I will have to call a plumber, i guess. Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - Lee
Lee Suckow
Greg says: Can you poke a hole from the toilet that has water thru the wall to the one that does not? Are they back to back? If so, use a push fit tee and cut the good side install a tee, an elbow thru the wall and then another angle stop.Hi Greg!
We recently purchased a townhouse, and are now starting to hear a banging noise when the water is turned on. I traced the actual banging to a hose in the basement, that is positioned into a pipe that goes below ground (public septic?) The banging noise is made when the hose bangs against the wall as water pours from it into the pipe. Any idea what is causing the hose to jump and bang like this? It wasn't happening when we first moved in. Help...the whole house hears the noise! Thanks for any direction you can provide. :)
Donna Y
Greg says: High pressure causes velocity, velocity causes banging. Loose pipes can move, movement allows banging. Septic waste is drain pipes, drain pipes do not bang unless the waste is pumped, is your waste pumped? Test the water pressure on the fresh water supply, if over 80 psi, you need a pressure reducing valve. If not, strap the loose pipe that bangs.Im gonna be adding a 1/2 bath to my basement its a new construction there is a 3/4 peks hot and cold water line running to my washer machine . Can i T off that with 3/4 and run it to both my toilet and sink or should i run a whole new line from the main
brian allard
Greg says: The Tee will likely flow enough due to the decrease in fixture flows of todays requirementsI was so excited to see instructions on how to remove a shower arm that has the head attached to it.
Unfortunately, the arm is not budging. WD40 hasn't helped. It is very old and is original to the house which is 40 years old. I will most likely have to call a plumber to change it. But, at least I have some education on how it is screwed in and what needs to be done.
Celeste
Greg says: A plumber may have a better skill and tool to un screw, but it may break off on the plumber too. Extracting the broken part in the wall is done with an extractor tool. Plumber may have one, turning correctly is the trick.Gentlemen,
Thanks for taking my question. I live in a 2 story 20 unit condominium. The water pressure to the units is 80psi. There is no pressure reducing valve to the buildings. I have replaced the water feed valves in both toilets twice in 2 years. Could the valve failure be because of the high water pressure. Thanks, Jack
Jack Adams
Greg says: Cheap angle stops sold in stores are just that. I use Wolverine Brass Mfgr. top line Finale stops, they will last couple decades.I'm having problems with the main house water inlet which is 3/4" shut off valve and would like to replace it with a new 1/2" ball valve which I've had for sometime.
My question is can I replace the 3/4" with the 1/2" ball valve, will it effect the pressure inside the house?
Our house is one story 2 baths.
Frank Lago
Greg says: Frank,It is not to code to reduce a water line serving a building, and the min. service size is 3/4" as well. Yes it would create restriction and thus pressure loss in the dynamic water pressure.
Settle a question: will just slightly turning on the main water cutoff at the meter keep the inside pressure down?
george penick
Greg says: No, water pressure will remain exactly the same. Restricting the flow will lower the flow only. So, partly closing a valve just like on a garden hose bib, less water flow will come out of the hose. But stop that flow at end of the hose, and no matter how slow the flow is, the hose will swell up and possible blow.I have a Frigidaire Dishwasher and the circulation pump only runs if I apply a little pressure to it towards the back of the washer what's causing this?
Jacob
Greg says: I do not know, plumbers usually install but not repair appliances. Use the make/model into a google search and find t shooting at Mfgr.Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: Jeanne,I would have to see the valve as installed to say what is the issue. There are many possible reasons your not getting water as desired. Send a copy of the contract so I can see the scope of the job and parts used .
I'm trying to remove a Delta tub/shower knob. I removed the cap and the screw, but the knob doesn't just come right off like the video. I've pulled and fiddled with it, but afraid I might break or damage it. Can you give any advice? I'm not a plumber, heh, just a lady in distress !! Many thanks for any advice on this ! You're video's are great, by the way...nice and clear. Thanks much !
need help
Greg says: Pull harder, even if it breaks off, you can buy a new one for $15. Let me know how you do...hi.some low-level water is running casket you release a stream of barely warm flows through what can be? combi boiler : Vitodens 100
Gedas
Greg says: Gedas,I do not understand your comment...
Here's the problem I'm having:
Hot water only dribbles out of shower (head and faucet) - and only the shower (no where else in house). Cold water runs fine.
Here's what I've done to no avail:
1. I replaced the hot water compression valve in shower faucet = no effect.
2. I let water blast out of open hot water pipe in shower = no problem.
3. I tried out the cold water valve on the hot water side = still only a dribble.
4. I tried the new hot water valve on the cold water side = works fine.
At a loss.
Neil
Greg says: The seat area has a blockage, likely a washer broke loose and is lodged into the valve body. Or the wrong seat is in the body.Hello greg,seen a few of your videos i live in phelan,ca. by victorville and had a couple questions first i got a quote from sprinkler repair guy a couple of years ago to replace my pressure regulator and also move it from in front of my home to where the meter is by the street they wanted 1100.00 approx. half was labor now my first question is how much would you charge to come up and do it and two if your price is also too steep for me could you at least tell me what parts i need and which brands you would go with? thanks alot greg! rich brock
rich brock
Greg says: What size pressure regulator? that could be a deal for a 2" unit, or too much for a 1" valve. send a pix to my cell, 760-788-2889The faucet sprayer on my sink is a stand alone sprayer not the new pulldown sprayers. Water flows to the sprayer without a problem. However, the chrome top of the sprayer pops off when the lever is pressed on the sprayer head. Is this as simple as a washer that is missing or is the chrome top part worn?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Marie
Marie
Greg says: Marie,Plastic parts are weak, replace the head.
I looked everywhere on line and couldn't find an answer for my issue, then stumbled upon hour page, maybe you can help... My bathtub/shower faucet is leaking water from the hole under the bottom of the faucet. It leaks at a constant drip rate when just running water, but more like a spray when I pull the shower converter "thingie" Can you tell me how to fix it? Do I just need a new faucet?
Shanta
Greg says: Shanta,The spout, not the faucet is the correct term. The spout needs replacing, likely an allen screw tightens the spout to a copper tube. Look under to see.
gutted bathroom put in new tub. decided I would put a neoangle shower in the other corner. my bathtub was piped into main drain upstairs so I figured I mite as well run the shower piping to the same place my tub was going to. I used a 1 1/2 inch pvc y conector went ahead and ran water in tub and shower no leaks put floor back in finished flooring but when the wife filled the tub and drained it the water came up in the shower pan about 1/2 inch.the water in the shower went away when the water in the tub was about 5inchs high. what did I do wrong.
not a plummer
Greg says: Shower drains are 2" min. as per code. However, that is likely not the problem. I would have to see the piping pitch (fall) and the connection to the main drain and the connection of shower to the existing pipe. If a flow restriction is downstream from a tub, the flow will go to lowest and easiest place. Blockage is a possibility, slope of pipe is another. Venting is very important in drainage each fixture needs a vent and that vent needs to be in the correct place.I recently had 3 hose bibs replaced at a cost of over $600.00. My house was built in 1988 and plastic pipe was used. The plumber told me this pipe will need to be replaced with a newer type of plastic at a cost of over $3000.00. True or false?
spk
Greg says: Your question of true or false is not possible to answer with out knowing what material your original plastic piping is and why it is bad and what is needed to replace it. There was a piping sold and installed called "Quest" AKA Polybutelene. AKA, "PB", this grey in color is bad stuff and many re pipes cost $3,000. I do not trust just any plumber to do a full replacement of piping in these homes with PB. Details matter.I just had my tub and faucet replace and know the hot and cold faucet will not come on unless the shower is on
james
Greg says: Valve is upside down.Hi all,
Just looking for some information on the Sewer systems in Ontario, Canada.
My house is 14 yrs old, and had a rough in put in by the builder. However, there are 2 rough ins, I am presuming one for the toilet and one for the vanity. Is that needed? I thought all the waste water goes down the same sewer system for treatment.
When I open it up, I can see one connects to the main powder room toilet sewer line. The other for the vanity is connected to the downspout (I can hear the water when it rains).
But the person put the vanity rough in where the toilet should be and the toilet's where the vanity should be. Is it ok to put in the toilet and it flushes to the waste water system?
Thanks.
Henry
Greg says: Henry,The toilet needs a 3" drain pipe having a 2" vent, the vanity or Lavatory drain is normally 1.5 " and as well has a vent. The Lavatory normally drains into the sanitary drain, not a rain gutter downspout. We do not use combination sewer and storm drainage in the US. Greywater is used from lavatories, but that is as well not rainwater downspout connected. Rainwater should be collected, but not mixed with any sanitary drainage.
We have an older house, 25 years old, we have a single control moen shower faucet in the upstairs bathroom. We want to change out the control handle, how to we determined if the valve is a shower pressure balancing valve?
Mark
Greg says: Mark,As my videos show, the Posi Temp valve only turns, it does not pull out, or push in. The older valve design does pull on and left to right are for temp. The cart for the Posi Temp is bigger. The handles are different.
hi there,
question is our water pressure is pretty low to start off in the bathroom, but to make matters worse if you flush the toliet while the shower or bath is running it stops and nothing but a little stream comes out until the toliet is full. And it isnt just the toilet using any sink in the house will cause the same issue!!
help,
sincerely,
jessica
jessica
Greg says: Jessica,You are on city water or well water, if on city water wahat is the pressure at the meter? do you have a pressure regulator? if so is it old? ,
Hello. Its been -30 here for two days so i left my bathroom and kitchen faucets dripping slightly. I woke up and now the kitchen faucet pressure has decreased by 90%. Its a single-handle faucet, no pressure for hot or cold. The bathroom sink, tub and washing machine is fine for pressure. What could this be?
Note -- all pipes are insulated in the crawlspace and the temp down there has remained above 3+ degrees.
Tamara
Greg says: Tamara,Any temp below 32 degrees for a few hrs. will freeze water in pipes. Insulation only delays ice! 10 degrees will freeze well insulated pipes in a couple hrs.
There is no water flow when you turn on the hot water
Dana woodard
Greg says: The cold water supply the the water heater is off. Look on top of water heater the right side inlet pipe should have a shut off valve on it.What would cause the hot water to stop working in all faucets
.
Dana woodard
Greg says: Do you mean no flow of water, or flow is there but cold?i am moving a laundry room from basement to the first floor . i am a licensed electrician so i have that part down lol i am installing a drain pan under the washer , were do i need to run that drain to ? and do i need to install a P trap in this drain ? the drain pan has a 1" knock out in it for the drain .other then these questions i feel i have this under control . thank you for your help
Will
Greg says: The drain pan is usually 2" deep & square and a fitting comes with it, this is normally 1" pvc sch 40 pipe to outdoors using as few elbows as possible directly thru the exterior wall that is closest. An exterior wall is needed, unless you set the washer and pan up off floor so the drain pipe can be pitched 1/4" per ft. fall to a floor drain. No trap needed as this is not a drain pipe connected to the building drain having sewer gases. This is only used if a leak is with in the machine, and it then just goes outdoors. The waste water from the washer can be used as greywater outdoors and not directed into the building drain. But, is the waste water is dumped into the sanitary drain, it is trapped and vented as per code using a 2" standpipe having a trap above the floor that it sets on. either within the wall or out, but trapped.I recently replaced the cartridge in a Moen diverter valve (not bath tub). Now I'm getting a little trickle leak that seems to be coming from the threads where the screw that holds the handle is mounted. Should I just put some plumbers putty or silicon in the hole before I install the screw or, get a new cartridge?
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff,You say diverter valve, do you have more than one shower head? are you using the term correctly? If you actually have a Moen diverter valve, it will use the Magnum cartridge, and that needs to be OEM, not just "Fits" Moen. No, putty or silicone is not the answer. By Moen, is the OEM way to go, spin offs do not work most of the time.
I have tankless heater system; my 1st bathroom sink gets hot water faster then than kitchen sink and master bathroom shower 3 more minute.
I watched the link :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE2QFLlEXNw
shown the recirculation pump installed under faucet/vanity.
1. Does this pump work with my tankless heater system?
2. You mentioned that it needs to have TACO RECIRCULATION PUMP because it flows more water that suits the tankless system. What kind of TACO PUMP MODEL and serial number for specific one?
Thanks for your responses.
Thanh Nguyen
Thank for your ansswer
TN
Greg says: Go online to the site that is the manufacturer of your unit, look at the model # read the requirements for a circulator. Some tankless units have built in controls for circulators, some units require a specific gpm. Any flow trigers the big burner, a pump could double the gas consumption.There are issues with heat loss in the pipe, some tankless units are not very smart when it comes to re heating circulated water.
I installed a new aerator, and water is coming out to strong and hard, please help,,, mechanicly challenged.
Bill Harris
Greg says: Use a lower GPM aerator, the GPM is listed on the side of the body of the aerator. Kitchen is 1.8 gpm, 1.2 for Lav. and .5 for comercial Lav.I showered this morning and it worked just fine. Not to long ago I went into the bathroom and now the lower shower spout leaks when it is shut off and it barely flows when the shower is turned on. What is wrong?
Corey
Greg says: You say the lower shower spout, do you mean the tub spout? You say it leaks when shut off, do you have a one handle tub & shower valve with a diverter spout, and the spout does not divert all the water? or the spout drips when the valve is off? or do you have a three handle valve? what brand, you give me little to understand. Can you send me a picture? here, or to my cell 760-788-2889?Can I replace a standard cartridge with a posi-temp cartridge in a single handle shower control?
John
Greg says: No, the dia. is larger in the posi temp cartridge.Why am I smelling and hearing wastewater from downstairs toilet? Both noise and smell appear to be coming from the upstairs tub that hasn't been used often.
drm
Greg says: The p trap has evaporated from lack of use, put a quart of water in it asap!Hi Greg;
We have a 15 year-old hot water recirc. system that has worked flawlessly. We recently started losing water pressure in our master shower and a plumber replaced an extremely deposited Delta single lever valve. Since that valve replacement, our shower and the vanity closest to the shower seem to have been removed from the recirculation system as we have to let the water run a LONG time before it heats up in those two locations. The rest of the house hot water recirculation works normally. I've also noticed that opening the hot water at another location in that bathroom severly decreases the water pressure in either the shower or the vanity. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Mark S
Greg says: Mark,There are too many variables to ask you about, this is something that is best looked at in person. You likely have a restriction in the pipes, but the piping in houses is not all done the same, let alone correctly. The Long time wait might be from the lower flow of newer fixtures, try removing aerators or shower head and noting the flow increase as well as quicker to when hot water is hot. What did the plumber install to replace the old shower valve, I bet the flows are half the older flow.
Having trouble figuring out why I don't have any water coming out of the hot water side on any faucet in the building!!! Cold water flows just fine, just not from the hot water side??? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Maggie Williams
Greg says: Maggie,Is the water supply to the water heater shut off? When you say building, do you mean a single family building, or what? How old, I need more info.
I bought an American Standard Colony Soft single control pull down faucet about 1 1/2 years ago. Had no problems with it until recently. It started leaking down below the sink, only when the water is running. Both hot and cold water. I called American Standard, and they sent me a new cartridge, but it still leaks. Any thoughts?
Mickey D
Greg says: Yes, the leak is not in the cartridge it is in the body and or the discharge hose connection. I solve by removing the faucet and hooking it up to water supply while not on the sink top. look into the faucet body to see exactly the source of the leak.have had my shower fixed twice first time he just put washers in and new taps after that my shower is hot and cold wont regulate so they got another plumber in and its still the same,
Ark
Greg says: Ark,I need to know what you mean by "Taps", stems,handles, valves,? send a picture so I know what valve you have. 3 handle, 2 handle, 1 handle, modern anti-scald type, or old compression type? you tell me little that I can use to help.
Hi All,
About 3 years ago, We had a drain added for a washing machine inside the
house. It was added into the drain line for the sink/garbage disposal
with a "y" valve. Recently, I noticed that water is backing up more and
more into our sink and takes 10-15 minutes to drain. After doing some
inspection and troubleshooting, it looks like the install is causing the
problem. The "Y" joint with the washing machine is now sagging and
there is quite a bit of build up due to improper drainage (3 years
worth). I've tried a garden hose with pressure, using a pipe auger, and
a few other methods under the house with no luck. My next inclination
is to cut a section of the pipe out where the clog is, remove the clog,
and add strapping, etc to let gravity correct the problem. Any advice
appreciated.
Gregh
Greg says: Greg,Yes, any sag will cause a build up of fats, oils and grease,(FOG). I suspect you meant to say fitting when you said,"valve". Because valves in a drain waste and vent system are rare. Hot water after the blocked up water has drained out fully, (overnight) might help soften the FOG plug, then apply enzymes to digest it on a regular basis. That is to say, some restaurants use enzyme nightly. You might need them every 3 or 4 months. I as well assume the Y is in fact a Y and not a tee. If so great, as a tee is for vertical installations only. Is this in a crawl space?, A hair dryer might warm up the wye. Cutting it out is needed if not and / or if the proper pitch is only possible if so. Kitchen and laundry waste water are a problematic mix due to the FOG and lint combing forming what you have.
Can you waste the laundry water to the outdoors for landscape water?
We recently moved into a new house (built in 2008). The water pressure is so high that my wife can't use the shower. I measured it with a gauge and it was right around 100. Adjusting the pressure regulator seems simple enough but the problem is I can't find it. The house has a slab foundation and there are no visible pipes entering the home. I've looked in the attic where the hot water heater is and under sinks etc. but with no luck. Is it possible that I don't have a regulator or is it just buried/hidden somewhere? Thanks!
Scott
Greg says: Look at the water meter, just after it on the house side. If no regulator there in a rectangle valve box, install one there. My video shows how. Often a house shut off valve is on the exterior wall of the garage and sometimes just inside the wall behind a hose bib that is on exterior of that garage wall.My spray wand on my kitchen faucet was leaking so I had it removed. Now I'm not getting any hot water. Any clue what the issue might be?
Susan Harvey
Greg says: Is the hot water shut off valve open?Hi Greg
You answered my question about capping off my tub spout since I'm waiting on a diverter (they're not even sure it'll be the right one) and from what I can see using a magnify glass, the inside of the diverter valve looks corroded too (I know these terms from looking on the net, so I'm no plumber). You said an option would be to replace the spout with a diverter type. I did, and now the water flows through the shower head like we want instead of both places at the same time (wasting so much water). Thanks for the help. We live mostly on my VA disability, and I don't have paypal, so in the next month or a little after, I'd like to send you something for helping me. Where could I send it to? I honestly appreciate the advise. You can email with the address if you'd like. Again, thanks.
Donald Romesburg Jr.
Greg says: Don,My address is 15725 Snuz Mtn. Rd. Ramona Ca. 92065. You are so kind.
Also squirt vinegar into the valve body to dissolve the hard water build up. Then butter up the new diverter with faucet grease, not pipe dope, but faucet grease, either non hardening silicone paste or the Teflon paste used to lube o rings you can get at swimming pool supply stores.
kitchen tap is spraying water horizontally rather than vertically - does that mean it needs a new washer?
Thanks
Ilana
Greg says: Your description tells me little, I can not see what you see, so those words are not enough. "Tap", you mean kitchen faucet, spout? Or from under the handle, or the aerator? from the pivot of the spout ? Some faucets do not even have washers to replace!Hello
Tub spout leaks a lot of water when I turn the middle handle to get a shower. I took the diverter out and it looks corroded. I'm waiting on a Streamway diverter for my Moen shower to be shipped. Diverter looks simple enough...packing nut, plastic stem attached to a brass end. I'm thinking if the diverter valve inside is corroded too, and it still leaks, could I possibly cap off the tub spout so all the water comes through the shower head until I get the money to replace the entire works? I'd really appreciate any info. Thank you in advance.
Donald Romesburg Jr.
Greg says: Use a diverter tub spout, then all is optional.I replaced my hot water heater with a brand new 40 gallon rhuell from home depot. My wife says that if she fills the bathtub with hot water and then tries to rinse her hair there is no hot water. Is it something mechanical I didn't do correctly, like purge the system or did I not buy a large enough water heater. Also I had replaced the supply line from the city in the spring because of bad water pressure. Not sure if the improved water pressure has something to do with my problem. Thanks.
Corey
Greg says: Corey,The incoming winter water temps. are low! the water heater is tasked with raising the temp about 70 degrees in the winter instead of 40 degrees in the summer. Another issue is the temp loss between the wtr. htr. and the tub. If in concrete slab, you will lose over 10 degrees in that distance. All the losses add up. The 40 gal tank is a small tank. I never use a 40 when tub then shower to rinse hair is needed. Raising the storage temp is an option, but increases scalding possibilities. The thermostats are adjustable. Caution there is a code on this issue. there is also devices that can be used.
I ordered a repair kit for a Delta 600. It was a little different than the parts on your video. The ball had one large hole on the bottom and four small holes on top. Also, the plastic piece that went over the ball was one piece, no adjusting ring. I replaced this to repair a leak. Now I have about half the water pressure to the shower head. I removed the all parts and turned the water on and it appeared to have good pressure. I assume there is an issue with the parts in this kit?
Jamie
Greg says: The ball needs to be the same, that is what could be reducing the flow. Use the old ball to see if the flow will resume. The stainless balls are best. The cups and springs are the leak issues normally, rarely the ball unless it is gouged and not smooth. the seal on that is tightened by the dome and ring, just reuse the ring.First of all I know nothing about plumbing. My daughter bought a house 5 years ago. She told me that every winter, and only in the winter, the water flow to the shower slows down about 90%. The hot water is still hot but not much of it. It never happens in the summer time. She is not married and has no help in this matter. What should I do about this? Does the shower head have anything to do with it?
john john
Greg says: John,The heat is lost on the way to the shower, many issues can be present, Call me 760-788-2889, my cell, tell me your the guy online not a customer that I do work for here....I live/work in both on line and physical worlds.
I watched the video on repairing a leaky delta shower valve and was hoping to see that the dome would not come off as easily on the video. Your solution was to tap the dome with a wrench...that did not work...So after several shots of wd-40 over a period of 3-4 days...it still does not want to loosen...and of course, I dont want to push it. Would applying cold (ice) or heat help. .? any advice would be appre ciated. Thanks..Ed
ED MACKEY
Greg says: Yes, heat works like melting ice cream! Apply heat to dome and tap and it will spin off. I use a torch on low setting. No worries about melting the plastic under the dome, it is replaced with full kit anyway.I just got a water circulation pump and I stumbled across your page while looking for directions to install it.
I'd rather not run a whole return line, but I hate wasting water waiting for the kitchen sink or the shower to warm. It looks like hooking it between the hot and cold lines under my back bathroom sink would eliminate a LOT of the water waste, at least it'll help get it to the back of the house for my 4:30 am shower, then my son's at 6.
I just couldn't believe it's that easy.
I have another idea for saving that shower water. One could use a vaccuum switch safely mounted right in the shower for a valve to divert and save the cold water (until it gets warm) for the garden, lawn, etc.
It sounds pretty far out, but somebody might run with it.
Steve Richardson
Greg says: Easy if you do it right and your house lay out is linear. The other systems on the market are a bit different and some have better effect in some piping layouts. Thanks for saving the fluid that binds us all...Greg
I have installed a 2nd hand sink with a mixer tap and joined the water supply into existing lines. I only get water running through the new sink/tap if I have another tap running and its only through the hot water. There is a flow regulator on the cold line in... The existing lines are on mains pressure... what am I missing?
Jason
Greg says: Jason,The correct way is to use separate angle stops for each faucet, however Tees can be installed on the outlets of one existing pair of stops. Turn off the stops remove the tubes, put a tee for second faucet, put tube on new tee side outlet to new faucet.
I just replaced a moen single control cartridge in my shower to stop a leak, that worked just fine, but now when I pull out the handle to turn on the water it pulls part way back and reduces water flow. What did I miss when I put it back together?
Eric
Greg says: Eric,Did you use a Moen Magnum cartridge made by Moen for Moen, and not a "fits Moen" by Lasco or Danco? Did you look into the valve body to see that no debris was left in there by the old cartridge? What is the water pressure in the building? Needs to be less than 80 psi. When pressures are above that, the valves leak, since your old one leaked, it might be the original cause and still present.
I RECENTLY REPLACED A BATHROOM FAUCET.NOW AT THAT FAUCET I HAVE LOW PRESSURE WHEN I TURN IT ON BUT IF I TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON I GET GOOD PRESSURE. THE REST OF THE HOUSE HAS GOOD PRESSURE. PLEASE ADVISE AS TO WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE. THANKS
GARY KERN
Greg says: Gary,Sorry to pry into your budget choices, but is the faucet one of the made in China plastic Home Depot/Lowes/retail faucets? Did you replace the angle stops and supply tubes below the faucet at the wall? What make is it?? When you say bathroom faucet, do you mean sink or tub, or shower?
I just bought a new Marguette pressure balancing bath and shower set. After it was installed I have no pressure and cannot get enough hot water to take a bath. I don't know what to do.
Fran
Greg says: Fran, you give me little to go on, I assume you installed it ? and after doing so the flow was restricted? The Marguette brand is made by who? is the valve installed in the wall the floor or the deck of the tub, and the piping to it made of what and what is your water pressure and is the screen on the inlet clean if there is one?I had the same bathtub for about 25 years. Just remodeled my bathroom and the bathtub was replaced. Now the water pressure can not be regulated. I'm told that it is just the way new plumbing fixtures work these days to conserve water and to prevent burns. I don't like it at all. Is there anything that can be done?
Ginger
Greg says: Ginger,More homework is required before remodeling. There are tub & shower valves costing $200 and $2,000. some thermostatic design, others pressure balance, some have volume control and temp control separate, while the cheaper ones do not. The mandated flow maximum is 2 gallons per min. from the head, no max from the tub spout.
I have a Kohler single control side control faucet in my kitchen. I just replaced the Ceramic Disc Cartridge, it's made by Danco (Compare to Kohler GP1016515). I now have extremely low flow of water, both hot and cold, and both together. How tight should the Rough Plate Bonnet be? What could I have done wrong on the install to cause this? The reason I replaced it was the plastic tabs broke off in the stem and the Stem Adadpter broke and was for most part gone when I opened the mechanism up to investigate.
M Welsh
Greg says: First off I would never use Danco stems or cartridges, they are made in China and have tolerance issues when subjected to hot and cold temps that are 50 degrees apart in as little as 1/16th. of an inch. If a kohler faucet stiffens up it is likely from hard water and or corrosive water and the hard water crystals could have been dislodged and plugged up one of those small water passages. The aerator has a passage for the water of about 1/16th. of an inch that pluge up easy, remove the aerator and clean.Greg, I have a recirculating hot water system in my house that works really well for bathrooms 50 feet away from the tanked water heater. However, when my kids and grands all visit simultaneously, we occasionally run out of hot water. So I installed a 5 GPM tankless heater into the inlet side of my tanked water heater. I now have plenty of hot water, however, with the recirculating pump running, the tankless unit trips it's reset button because of the constant water flow through it. Turn the pump off and it takes several gallons of wasted water for hot water to reach the distant showers. Is there some type of valve, switch, or other device that you know of that would allow the pump and tankless heater to operate togather?
Kenneth Elkins
Greg says: Decrease the circulator gpm to less that the tankless unit requires to ignite and heat water. Use a restrictor on the pump return pipe. 1/4 gmp should do.Hey Greg,
My hot water heater makes a "bang" after it completes its heating cycle, it hadnt always done this, but has recently started and is getting stronger. It's a 40gl Whirlpool gas heater, maybe 2 years old, no expansion tank on the cold side. Are there any remedies, I've read on a forum that rotating the baffle was a cure that Rheem recommended to a customer and that worked. But I'm skeptical of that being a cure all. Trying that, if possible to do from on top where the vent hood is mounted.
Many Thanks,
Jason
Jason
Greg says: Jason,Yes rotating the baffle in the flue is one thing, another is as tanks age the hard water builds up and pops off the inner walls, just a natural thing from hard water.
I have a triplex and the bottom units cold water isn't running. The hit remains intact. The toilet still flushes. Help. I don't want to hire a plumber if I can trouble shoot on my own.
Saira Moore
Greg says: Saira,What do you mean by the "Hit" remains in tact? The toilet still flushes means what? that the water is flowing to the toilet? You tell me very little. The bottom unit means what? it is a 3 story unit, a 2 story unit, or the bottom unit is a basement? The hot water flows or not? the hose bibs flow? the water meter is on or off?
I recently had very little water pressure in my bathtub and shower only and I replace the hot water stem which did nothing but while the stem was out we turned on the water and the water pressure was great shot all the way across the shower so what would you advise ??
MARGIE
Greg says: The head and or the spout have a restriction, is there a center diverter v alv e stem, or a diverter spout?Hi Greg,
Thank you, this is a follow up to your answer to my question about sudden change in how long hot water is taking to heat.
We live in the desert area of California.
We had a single handle faucet installed 3 months ago and the problem with water temperature just began.
I had a GRUNDFOS Nonsumersile Circulation Pump installed last year. I turned on about an hour ago and it doesn't make a difference. The needle looks like it is pointed at "PC" Is this the circulation system you were referring to?
I appreciate your help!!!!!
Thank you,
Diane
Diane
Greg says: Great pix, please see the e mail I sent you. Hopefully it was sent to you, if not call me. 760-788-2889, here is what I sent, Diane,the un insulated section in the pipe above the pump is a check valve, turn the pump on and tap on that valve as it could be stick shut stopping the flow of the water. Another thing to do is turn on the pump and off and back on to listen to the flow of water in the pipe, or the motor turning. Also is there another blue lever handle like the one at the pipe coming out of the wall? There should be and that lever needs to be inline with the pipe, not opposing or crossing the pipe direction. The ball valve has only a 90 degree range of turn. Let me know what you find. Call me tomorrow or now.
HI,
i am having a sudden change in how long it is taking for hot water to get to shower. Bathroom redone about 3 years ago. Gas hot water heater is 1996. What could be cause of problem before I pay a plumber?
Thank you
Diane
Greg says: Diane,Avg. life on a gas water heater is 8 to 10 yrs. Water quality issues make a difference, the southwest is hard water, where are you? Winter is colder, so the water in pipes is colder when is cools down after no flow for 5 min. Do you have a circulation system on the hot side? if so it might be defective for some reason like age. Sometimes someone installs a single handle faucet in the house and after that the cold pushes thru to the hot side blending the hot water to warm, have you installed any fixtures lately?
We recently installed a Kohler Purest floor mounted tub filler with a hand shower. We pulled the diverter to move water to the hand shower, but now it won't go back to the main faucet. We have taken apart the hose and made sure it was clear of obstructions and also tightened all connections. What do we need to do to get the vacuum to allow the water back to main spout?
Thanks so much!!
Greg says: Sorry, I know nothing about that valve. The kohler factory service can help. Hard water is likely the cause. Floor mounted tub fillers were done away with for a reason 50 yrs. ago. Trend brings them back, but wall mounted single handle tub/shower valves are less trouble and cost.Hello
I turn on my shower and my bathtub get full of water and when I turn it off it goes away .
Why does it do that ?
Thank you
DP
Greg says: Are you saying the tub is not part of the shower? are you saying the water comes up from the drain? when you say it goes away, you mean down the drain? If so the drains are connected and after the two join thear is a restriction in the drain line. Enzymes might improve and maintain, but likely hair is causing blockage and a snake is needed.We added a bathroom in our basement. Since then when someone is in either shower on the 2nd floor they get scalding water if someone uses faucets or toilets on the mainfloor. We cant also get hot water in the kitchen sink if either shower is on. What do you think the issue is.
tnelly
Greg says: Tom,Plumbing water supply pipes are supposed to be sized professionally, not just added to any which way. Balancing valves can be installed in showers to reduce the imbalance. Water pressure on both cold and hot sides needs to be equal or checked so when one side lowers, the higher pressure side does not push over to the lower side. Check valves can stop this, but check valves can cause problems. Thermal expansion is another issue that creates pressure imbalances, there are codes to regulate this. You have a potential scald risk and this is why some DIY projects are not DIY projects. You have codes and safety issues above what I can resolve in an E mail... Piping has a path of most, or least resistance, you are seeing an imbalance. A professionally trained plumber is needed to apply pressure balancing valves and thermal expansion tanks, and possibly check valves in the branches, but only as a last resort, as I said, check valves are problematic except at the fixture its self.
Greg,
Thanks for the quick reply. The leak is like a slow drip, and dripping from the top of the kitchen cabinet.
Hopefully we can get this resolved with minimal damage. The toilet seal ws just replaced last year, but I did go ahead and check it just to be sure. But the leak that facilitated THAT was in a totally different spot in the kitchen, so I don't know. Thanks again for your response and time answering.
Jessica
Greg says: If the toilet is loose, it will leak even if it was replaced yesterday!, therefore if the leak is new, and the toilet not loose, there is likely not a wax seal causing the water in the cabinet. Look at the outside wall from the ground and line up the cabinet leak with a window upstairs, then go up stairs to see what fixture is at that place. likely the tub overflow or valve trim or shower arm. Look to see if the wall seal in the tub or shower is secure. See what fixture causes the leak, if one does it is that fixture. If the leal is constant even after 4 days of no use, then the leak is likely another fixture, or a supply pipe leaking in the wall 24/7.Our drain in our garden tub got stuck in the closed position so we had to remove the pipes to get to the place where the lever connects to the actual plunger. We removed everything and found the round piece where the lever connects was cracked. All well and good, we are going to replace that piece. However we noticed, that same day after removing those drain pipes, a leak into our kitchen from the upstairs bathroom. Could it just be coincidence this occurred after we started working on the drain and the leak could be coming from somewhere else, like the shower or toilet? Thanks for any info!
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,Anything is possible as well often many leaks are present when I go to a job and the only coincidence is a good thing because I only have to charge them to show up once. Drain waste pipes are not connected to supply water pipes and walls hide many things. Tracing the leak upward to its origin is how leaks are found since water flown down hill. Check to see if the toilet is loose to the floor, if it is that needs re setting anyway, it could be a source as well of water in wall/ceiling. You tell me very little of the ceiling/upstairs leak so I am just guessing.
I just replaced a moen push pull cartridge in my bathtub/shower. It works fine except when I screw the knob on, it pulls the valve open so I get a drizzle leak. This has happened with the last two cartridges I've replaced, I've never had this problem before that.
Jeff
Greg says: The sleeve that goes over the brass valve body or the trim plate is hitting the handle and opening the stem of the valve. Use the spacer that comes with the cartridge that goes on the stem before the handle so the handle does not pull so close .I would like to start by saying I know nothing about plumbing. The spout diverter lever broke in my shower. I paid good money for a brownish, Delta set and so disappointed it didn't even last a year! How would I go about repairs?
Susana
Greg says: Susana,You say good money, no money is bad money unless wasted. Brownish Delta set, you must be talking about the finish of the product? Do you mean oil rubbed bronze finish? and by set you mean a tub spout and a shower head? or the valve body and the trim with handle and spout and head? Most all products sold in home centers is sold for looks only and the brand name is only the name, but Delta and others are all made in China and last a couple yrs. then fall apart. This way the store can sell another and you lose. I hear and see this everyday. This is what retail plumbing has been reduced to. There are products that last and work well but they cost excellent money. As for Delta, they sell a tub spout that diverts by pulling down on the opening, instead of lifting up on a knob. This is a good product and they might not come in oil rubbed bronze finish. The failure in the one you got was what? it stopped diverting the water?
No, replaced watt with a wilkin. Was able to thread on
Jason
Greg says: If it holds, that is good, but I think Watts union threads are finer than Wilkins.Greg says: Different regulator valves are different physical size or length, as well as use different union threads. Is it on copper pipe? is the existing one threaded on to pipe thread or soldered union having union threads? send pix. I will tell you. If copper, shark bite fittings will attach.
Hey Greg,
Pretty sure its soldered with union threads. I was able to remove and replace with similar PRV, lastnight, though I didnt replace the unions. So far, pressure is back to normal, around 50-55 psi, the whistling is gone, and no drop in water pressure when running water. Hopefully, the unions are close enough to exact that it wont require removing and installing the unions that came with the new PRV.
Jason
Greg says: Is the new valve same brand as old one?I recently replace the shower head on my upstairs shower... all i did was replace the head. A few hours later, I flushed the toilet and noticed the shower started leaking from the shower head. I turned the knob to run out of the tub, and the tub also leaked out... now it is a constant leak out of either the shower head or the faucet, and its hot water... No idea what happened?!
danny
Greg says: Replacing a shower head has no effect on any other fixture in the plumbing system what so ever. Flushing a toilet, causes water dynamic pressure to drop, that can cause any fixture to respond. Especially when the toilet fill valve closes with a hammer force causing dynamic pressure to spike high. You likely have a pressure regulator problem. See my videos on water pressure regulators. Get a pressure gauge and test your pressure. get back top me with results.Greg says: Did you replace or reduce the pressure regulator? Is it over 8 yrs. old? Likely needs replacing. What is the street pressure? what make model and size of pressure regulator?
Jason says:
I tried reducing the pressure to see if the whistling would go away, and it isn't as strong as before, but the pressure is too low. I believe this regulator to be over 8 years old, it's a Watts N35B 1". Their website says it's obsolete, now, so I'm assuming it's past due. There is some calcium build up around the unions.
Will I be able to get a replacement that will thread right on?
Many thanks,
Jason
Jason H
Greg says: Different regulator valves are different physical size or length, as well as use different union threads. Is it on copper pipe? is the existing one threaded on to pipe thread or soldered union having union threads? send pix. I will tell you. If copper, shark bite fittings will attach.Greg:
I have two hot water heaters in my home. Only one supplies my master bathtub and lavatory and one upstairs bath. The problem is in my master bath. The water in my tub runs slowly with a wiggly stream. I just had my hotwater heater's rod replaced because when I turned the water on, it spit and sputtered the whole time it was running. It was pretty bad. But it now runs slow. Starts out full pressure, but in about 5 seconds, it slows down. Lavatory barely runs if the tub faucet is on. Have you any idea what to do?
Nancy Hundley
Greg says: Nancy,You have electric water heaters? My guess is you have debris in the pipe/valve somewhere.
Hey Greg,
I've been getting a whistling sound from a common wall between my tub/shower and toilet in my upstairs master bathroom. It happens when I turn on my faucets-- upstairs master bath sinks and occasionally shower/tub, the kitchen sink, the downstairs 1/2 bath sink and toilet, the upstairs 2nd bathroom sink and tub, and even my hose bib in the back yard. The whistling isn't constant, but starts just after i turn on the water, then stops after a second or two, which also coincides a loss of water pressure, then the whistle comes back about 2-3 seconds after I turn the water off and only lasts a second.
I tried reducing the pressure, which eliminated most of the whistling on the cold side of the tap, but was still there on the hot side, just not as strong.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Jason
JasonH
Greg says: Did you replace or reduce the pressure regulator? Is it over 8 yrs. old? Likely needs replacing. What is the street pressure? what make model and size of pressure regulator?My shower is has a very low water flow when running hot water; it will flow out of the spout just fine but when the diverter is engaged the water will run ok for a minute and then start trickling. I thought it could maybe be a clogged shower head so I replaced it but it did not fix the problem. I am also getting extremely low water flow in the downstairs half bathroom and the washing machine is taking forever to fill, both problems with hot water. The other bathroom shower is not as bad but water is not coming out through all of the holes in the shower head; this shower head has also been replaced.
Greg says: JenniferThe common thread is the water htr. The hot and cold nipples on top are likely corroded and restricting the flow. Remove both and inspect.
Greg says: Water in upstairs bathroom? you mean shower, tub & Shower combo, you mean lavatory faucet, having a single handle or two handle? Brands and age of faucets, water pressure in the house, I need info.
Hi Greg,
To answer your questions...
The water in the upstairs bathtub and shower is where the issue is, I haven't noticed if the sink is doing the same thing.
It's a single handle in the tub, and sink Moen is the brand its a clear plastic pull out and twist handle
No idea about the age it was here when we moved in 5 years ago,
Water pressure is good no issue with pressure unless something else is running like dishwasher, toilet, washer or downstairs sink.
Jessica
Greg says: Jessica,Likely there is water crossing thru the Moen single handle valve. Water pressure is a double edged problem. If a pressure regulator is bad, it can restrict flow when using water while also let pressure that should be held back get thru when no water is flowing. This allows street pressure in while no water is flowing then low pressure while water is flowing. Like I said double issue. I would check static pressure with a gauge with no water flowing for 10 min. that means no water used automatically by an ice maker or water filter, or a leaky toilet or any thing leaking. Then I would watch my video on changing a Moen shower valve. If you have the push pull and turn you have the older Moen, (the smaller cartridge) Use only made by Moen not made to fit Moen parts.
We are having trouble with water temperature difference in the upstairs bathroom
All of a sudden the water in the upstairs bathroom is coming out significantly cooler than it has in the past even when turned all the way to hot .
This wasn't an issue before, the water used to come out hot upstairs so I don't think it's a case of cooling in uninsulated pipes on the way up. The main floor and basement are coming out hot when turned to hot.
What could be the issue?
Jessica
Greg says: Water in upstairs bathroom? you mean shower, tub & Shower combo, you mean lavatory faucet, having a single handle or two handle? Brands and age of faucets, water pressure in the house, I need info.We just replaced the valve on our Kohler single handle kitchen faucet. Now we have no hot water from that faucet.
Greg says: Carol,You give me little info. What valve, the one in the faucet? the stop below the sink that supplies water to the faucet? What type of Kohler kitchen faucet, a pull out spout, a pull down or one with a side spray that pulls out?
Why did you replace the "Valve" did it leak, was it old? did it not shut off the water to the faucet? Give me more to go on...
The shower head drips water when the valve is off. There is no bath and the shower may be original. The house was built in 1963. I know that showers and bathtubs installed more recently have detachable cartridges built into the valve. Is there any way that I can find out whether the shower valve has a removable cartridge without disassembling or removing the parts?
Victor Walsh
Greg says: Victor,Likely it is PP valve, send me a picture to greg@ramonasplumber.com or to my cell 760-788-2889 I will tell you what you need to know. There is an upgrade stem for PP and suggest that if the valve is PP that you up fit the valve body to the new ceramic stems.
PP= Price Phister.
Water has started coming out of our shower when we run the dishwasher, use the kitchen sink or even flush the toilet (although it's clean water). What's wrong and Please tell me this is an easy fix!!
Greg says: Out of our shower , do you mean drain or head?, if head you have pressure regulator problems. If drain you have a main line blockage. Find and remove the building drain clean out in the ground.My lever handle kitchen faucet is sticking when turned. My husband just installed it 1 month ago. What could be the problem and how do I fix it?
Anon
Greg says: Doris,You give me zero to work with, brand of faucet, sticking how? If the faucet was bought at a home ctr. for less than $250, it is likely cheap china made product of un repairable nature. Most of the retail low end faucets last less than 2 yrs. The makers and sellers love the repeat purchases. I can advise on Grohe or Wolverine Brass faucets or a real US made faucet. Names aside I remove most every faucet I am called to deal with. Plastic and die cast pot metal is not a good material for plumbing fixtures.
I have a moentrol shower system. You pull the handle and it engages the shower (no tub/spout). We changed the trim kit and now the handle is metal (instead of plastic) but we find that when we try to turn it full hot/cold that the handle 'falls' and moves by itself out of selected temperature. I cannot find any info regarding this problem. I've made sure everything is tightened up and still the problem exists.
We replaced both of our systems in the house however the one with a bathspout diverter does not have this problem just teh shower.
Could this be a pressure problem? Would that mean replacing the valve?
Rose
Greg says: I have seen this problem many times, I would never change a Moen stem to having a lever handle. If the handle is counter weighted, that will fix the problem. Mr. Moen is rolling over in his grave with these chinese imported parts and trendy things being done to his original design. That product was designed to have no rotational weight on the handle, balance is needed.Hello,
I recently was having an issue with my upstairs Shower. there was no hot water coming from the faucet only cold. It was a single handle Kohler shower faucet. The first thing I thought to do was replace the valve, so I did. Everything worked perfectly for about 2 months. Randomly one day my daughter said the shower wasn't working. When I went to turn it on the water barely trickles out and its scalding hot. Could this be yet another valve issue or something else?
Nick Crews
Greg says: Nick,Possibly you fixed a symptom and left the cause. I suspect debris in the pipe. Remove the shower head, look in the inlet, what do you see?
I recently replaced the cartridges in a shower only faucet. It took months to get the cartridges since they were exclusive to Renovator's Supply and 20-30 years old. Renovator's had a hard time locating them. I had them installed for a few weeks with no problems, but the house is not occupied and the shower not used. I turned off the water to the shower and drained the line for a few days to work on something else and when I turned the water back on, the faucet lever on one side would not stay in the off position. The weight of the lever opened the faucet. So, for now I switched the hot and cold cartridges and positioned the levers so in the down position the water is off and quarter turn straight up is full on. The problem faucet won't stay in an in between position. These are ceramic cartridges. Any fixes? I've thought of an O ring, but that would wear out fairly quickly, right?
Marianne Arnold
Greg says: I have seen this with heavy handles, counter weight the handles and problem solved.I have an old fiberglass tub with a three stem faucet. The tub cracked and I fixed it but then the faucet lost water pressure on the hot side only and water drips (a lot) from the middle diverter valve. I got one of those tools designed to remove the stem valve thinking I would replace the whole faucet unit with a Kohler replacement faucet I found on line. The faucet name is Trend and it is very old. Anyway I got it out , after much effort, but since I thought I had to turn off the water supply to the house to accomplish this task I put it back in until I could get the replacement parts. So when I went back to take it out my tool just slipped around and wouldn't get it loose. I guess I tightened it too much. Is there anything I can do now to get it out? I am just stuck and need to fix this tub situation. Is there something I can do to the value to make it fit tightly in the wrench? I am not able to use a plumber right now. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. pf
pf
Greg says: I am not sure the tool is the right size, how deep in the wall is the stem and what is the size, send a pix?I had a plumber install a Watts pressure reducing valve and an Amtrol thermal expansion tank which I purchased. Amtrol sized it for me and told me make sure the installer reads the instructions before installing because many people don't and install them incorrectly and don't even realize they aren't working. So I tell that to the plumber. He does the install and leaves. I review his work and 1st sentence of Amtrol doc says install it on the cold water line. He installed it on the hot water line. I call Amtrol they say it's ok on the hot water line. I call the hot water heater manufacturer Rheem and they say it depends on the fittings whether they are ball or flapper. Rheem doc shows it on the cold water line.
Which line should a thermal expansion tank be installed on?
We have an irrigation system and it is one inch copper pipe attached to the homes 3/4 inch copper pipe two feet above the hot water heater. I am thinking it should be attached directly to the pipe after the water meter but before the pressure regulator so it runs at higher pressure. The pressure is 110 coming in from the street. I set it to 60 with the pressure regulator so the house and irrigation system are at 60 and big difference to irrigation system as some heads fail to return and rotate. What pressure do you recommend for the irrigation system and what pressure for the house?
I've watched your video regarding shark bites and pressure regulator installation. How long can I expect a shark bite fitting to last as opposed to a soldered copper fitting?
Thank you so much. As you know, even when you call the company's tech support the experience level of the people you get is questionable. God bless! And thanks in advance.
Pete
Pete
Greg says: Pete,The pressure regulator is best at the meter so to reduce the pressure for everything to below 80 psi. 110 psi is way too much pressure for irrigation valves or heads or pipe. If the heads do not pop up it is because there are too many heads on that irrigation circuit, (valve station). Placing the regulator after the irrigation allows the un regulated excessive pressure to enter the irrigation system. This high pressure causes excessive velocity in the irrigation that causes water hammer and erosion in the pipes. Look at the GPM discharge of each sprinkler head. Add up the gpm on every valve station, the irrigation valves have a max. volume of water flow in gpm . exceeding this gpm by having higher pressure is in excess of 4 feet per second, that is max speed that water is to flow in PVC. Some argue 5 feet per second is ok. However when pushing water in a line to flow 14 gpm in 3/4" pipe or 18 gpm in 1" pipe will allow more than double that. This is water hammer causing and valve damaging.
As for the location of the expansion tank, the code says that the manufacture has rule. But, common on the cold inlet, however as long as a check valve is not in the way the tank will function the same anywhere in the system after the pressure regulator.
What is the reason for your regulating the water, code compliance? reduction of water waste? flood avoidance? I agree you need one, but I want to know exactly your reason so I can lead you to solve that.
When my neighbor runs his lawn sprinkler system I am treated to a
session of really loud water hammer noises and high pressure spikes.
They are so loud that it wakes me up from sleeping.
Also, I can hear his water running in my pipes. In fact, I installed a
pressure gauge between my meter and my PRV valve, which the gauge and
the PRV are inside my home right where the water line enters through the
basement wall. The gauge rapidly oscillates about 2-5psi while his
sprinklers are already on and it sounds like I have a faucet on in my
home (which I do not). When his valves turn off and on, I get the loud
water hammer banging and the keeper needle on my pressure gauge
registers spikes up to 180psi.
I am in a residential house on a city water supply. The normal city
pressure hovers around 80psi. My meter is about 30 feet from my house
near the street. My neighbor's meter is about 4 feet away from my meter
on his property. My line is 3/4" copper.
His meter is about 30 feet from his sprinkler valves.
Here are some easy things I have tried so far:
- Checked to see if his line is somehow tied into mine after the meter
by checking my meter to see if its spinning while his sprinklers are on.
It is not.
- Called the water company to see if they can offer any solutions to the
issue. At first they were receptive to help, so they changed both our
meters and when that did not work, they informed me they will not do
anything else. They actually think Im making this up. This is what they
told me after they changed our meters, "If we had pressures at the level
you are claiming we would be having problems in the zone."
- Put a water hammer arrester in my home where the water line enters my
home. This has not helped and only slightly dampened the noise and
reduced the spikes by only about 10psi.
- Shut off the supply line valve between the city main and my meter
while his sprinklers are running and this solved the problem but of
course is not practical since I cant run out to the street to turn the
water off and on every time I want to take shower or run the dishwasher.
- Had a plumber come out, reproduce the problem and then tell me the
water company needs to fix this since its coming from the street side of my
meter. The water company still refuses to help after I told them this.
- Talked to my neighbor about this, he doesn't hear any noises and he
feels he doesn't have a problem, so doing any work on his lines is not
an option.
I would like to try any more easy things before I move on to harder
things like digging up the line near the meter and installing something
to eliminate or reduce the noises and spikes. I have thought about another PRV
in line right after the meter, along with another water hammer arrester or some
combination of both.
What is your opinion on this solution?
What else can I do? Thanks for your help!
Dan
Greg says: Wow, you have done your homework, my guess is the wtr. Dist. has one service line servicing both of you. This is not normal. Your situation is the reason, the possibility that both meters have separate service lines from a the larger street transmission line and still have any transmission like you describe is nil. So, is there a document where the Water Dist. charged either parcel for the said service ?, if so it normally will be just that, a service line to YOUR meter, not to others meters.... this may be your fix. Using a data log water pressure gauge is very convincing for this situation. You can rent a NIST certified dial/clock gauge that is used for just this reason.I am having problem opening the lid for the cistern to check the flush leak problem. It is an oval plastic push button-on the top of IFO cistern. I can send photos if needed to answer. Please help!
garima
Greg says: Yes please send pictures, I am not sure of your terminology. IFO cistern? are you meaning toilet tank lid?Greg,
Just in case my email reply doesn't make it back to you, here are my answers following your questions:
- are you on a well? No, municipal water.
- where do you live? Florida, in a townhouse development.
- is
your piping galvanized? Looks like CVPC, but I don't know what's in the walls.
- is your water heater electric? No, gas.
- what does your
water district say? Have not contacted them; thought I would try you first.
- do you have an old water treatment system still in
line that is not being serviced? Municpal water system, so I would not know.
- do you have a cavating booster pump? No.
- how long is your water main? Have no idea.
Hoping this gives you the info you need. If not, please ask for more.
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Bill
Greg says: Thank you for the reply, I suspect the water district has answers, the whole complex likely has same issues with the odor. Ask around at home owners assoc, (HOA). Next question is does anyone else have same smell? if no one else does, your water heater needs a new or different anode rod. Try the opposite of the one that is in the tank now. Magnesium or aluminum are the common options.What is causing the rotten egg/sulphur smell we are getting from both hot and cold faucets throughout the house?
I know that a bad water heater can cause this problem, but our WH is only 5 years old.
If we let the water run for about a minute, the smell goes away -- but we hate wasting water. Still, this smell is really repulsive when brushing teeth.
Thanks for your help!
Bill
Greg says: Bill,You give me little to go on, are you on a well? where do you live? is your piping galvanized, is your water heater electric, what does your water district say, do you have an old water treatment system still in line that is not being serviced, do you have a cavating booster pump, how long is your water main, some of these things can cause a foul odor in pipes. Sulfur is the source of odor, but what is causing it to out gas is it question.
A solution is installing a whole house water treatment system, this is becoming a solution to many water quality problems. The industry is growing fast. Water is becoming an issue more places from different causes.
We have a stuck Delta single valve and we show your great advice. It had a video that we're very interested in viewing. We've looked everywhere and we cannot find it. Do you have it posted on Youtube and we're not looking in the right place. The title is How to repair a Delta shower/tub valve. Can you help us?
Mike
Greg says: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk watch video, Read the remarks after the video, all q's have been answered.The kitchen sink in my condo doesn't give me hot water. A singlr handle faucet, I get cold water from both sides. All other faucets in the house have hot water. Thanks for taking the time to look at this
Dave
Greg says: Water pressure will be un equal in hot or cold side and that will cause it. What make kitchen faucet? how old? what make and age of shower valves in the house.We're installing faucets with ceramic washers and our water quality is unfiltered. We need to install a filter so that we don't damage the ceramic washer. What micron do we need to filter the water to? We've been quoted on one system which was 20 microns (and was very expensive) and another that was 110 microns. Is the cheaper 110 micron filter adequate?
Mary
Greg says: Mary,Ceramic valves are the most tolerant valves in the world. The question is are they made in China? are they a quality faucet. The issue of grit in the water is a well water system issue for the whole house, not a ceramic valve. Yes 110 micron filtered water will be fine for any faucet, ceramic or other. What brand, what is your water source?
HI there, I am wondering if anyone can solve this mystery for me. I had a plumber in yesterday to install a kitchen faucet. After he left we ran the dishwasher (next to the kitchen sink) and went out. Our dishwasher emptied water everywhere ...on the floor and through to our basement. We cleaned it up and tried the dishwasher again and it worked??? Is there someway the plumber loosened a hose? didn't remove a plug that then got dislodged eventually....What possibly could have happened as it seems too coincidental...
Thanks
Jane
Jane
Greg says: Jane,Dishwashers drain into an air gap mounted next to the faucet,(normally, by code). If the 7/8" hose from the gap fixture is kinked or has blockage in it, the DW will discharge its water out of that gap device. I have a video on clearing a dishwasher air gap in my list of videos. Watch it.
Do bathroom valves need to be left open all the way - as far as they can go, or is it okay to leave them open just enough to get a sufficient water flow to the sink and shower? (Or does it even matter?)
Alex
Greg says: Shower flows are regulated at the shower head. Many Shower valves made since the 90's are pressure balance type and restricting the flow could cause flow/pressure balance issues. I would never restrict shower valve water. As for sink faucets the flow is also restricted at the aerator and buying the flow limit that you need or want is a couple bucks, and job done. By restricting flow, one does not restrict the static pressures, just the flow pressure. I see angle stops making noise whistling and chattering when partially closed.Having said that, what reason do you ask? I have restricted flow at an angle stop before, so I ask.
When using the side spray hose in the Kitchen on full the water is still running through the kitchen faucet. The spray hose power is diminished.Also when taking a shower water still runs out of the bathtub faucet. The toilet tank sounds like it is running faintly all the time as well. Wondering what is wrong, thinking they must be connected. All 3 started about the same time.
Diane
Greg says: The diverter in the kitchen faucet has nothing to do with the diverter in your tub spout. Cheap imported kitchen faucets do not last more than a couple yrs. Hard water and corrosive water from chlorimines and minerals take a toll on zinc diecast tub spouts. Replace both with better materials not common brand names, since the common names have sold out to China.We installed a Glacier Bay shower that worked fine for several months. Then one day the cold water pressure just stopped. So I replaced the shower cartridge which fixed the problem. For about 3 days. Then the pressure stopped again. Thinking I got a bad cartridge, I replaced it again. Which fixed the problem again. For about 3 days. Then the pressure stopped again like before. Now I find that all I have to do is shut off the water remove the cartridge, put it back in, and turn the water back on and it fixes the issue. For about 3 days.
What could be causing this? I'm assuming it's not the cartridge because this is the third cartridge and they all have the same symptoms.
Thanks!
Shawn
Greg says: First off, the brand you bought is an imported product that sells for ten cents on the dollar compared to what I buy wholesale. Thermally stable materials are expensive to produce, the valve body has hot water in one side and cold in the other just 3/8" away, this causes expansion and contraction that causes the balancing spool to seize. True bronze valve bodies excluding the trim handles and such are $500. The trim is another $500, unless it's an exotic finish like oil rubbed bronze, then double that. Grohe is a brand I install with out issues, Wolverine Brass is as good and half the price, but very limited visual options and trim finishes.One possibility is that you did not flush the system before putting in the cartridge. Remove it and turn the water on for 30 seconds, then re assemble. Another issue is water pressures over 80 psi are problematic. what is the static pressure? What is the dynamic pressure, if the pressure fluctuates from side to side, the valve will shut off.
I recently replaced the hot and cold valves for a circa 1965 bidet in my master bedroom because one of them was leaking. I got the new valves in and tightened down, but when I turned the main water supply back on, I gound I could not operate the hot water handle, it was too difficult to turn. When I operated the cold water handle water started dripping from the vacuum breaker on the wall. I got that tightened up so it wasnt leaking then I noticed that the cold water valve was hot to the touch. The sink next to the bidet also had hot water in the cold water line. As I gradually found out, the cold water lines for the whole house seem to be affected. I know it has something to do with the vacuum breaker, but I don't know what to do to fix it, besides ripping everything out of the wall. Any thoughts?
Marianne
Greg says: Call a plumber, but not just any plumber, one who is licensed and trained, not just a company that sends out a person they hired to do plumbing service calls. That is to say you have a cross connection in the hot and cold pipes and that can be difficult to isolate. First off a 50 yr. old fixture might need replacing, next, any valve having hot and cold water connected to it might need check valves in-line. I do not recommend just anyone installing check valves as these devices can be problematic if installed wrong.I have a question regarding my well pump:
For the first 1-2 seconds when the pump comes on, get practically no water, then a shot of cold water, then resumes normal temperature.
Not tragic but annoying on cold winter mornings.
Watching the gauge, when the pump turns on, the gauge drops from 35 to ~10, then after a second starts to build from 35 to 50.
What I've checked so far:
Surge tank 40 psi - no water in the bladder.
Checked and cleaned contact on pressure switch set at 35-50 was at 40 to 60.
Which leads me to the pump itself.....any other ideas
Mike L
Greg says: While I am not a well pump service tech, I suspect air in your suction. The depth of the waterline below the pump or what type of pump and if there is a foot valve and other issues are not clear to me. The temp issue is likely exposure to weather not pump issues.My water meter was disconnected by someone trying to steal it but when trying to put it back I cannot get the meter to connect to the water main line. The threading isn't catching and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. It looks like there's something silver inside but not sure its function. Help?!
amanda
Greg says: Your water meter is normally the responsibility of the water district who owns it. Send a picture of your connection your having trouble with.I have a question. Can anyone tell me why the drain traps empty, leaving the sewer gasses to come into the house. It usually happens in very hot weather, when the air-conditioner comes on. We have a septic system.
It happens occasionally. Not every time.
Cynthia Dick
Greg says: Serious condition caused by the HVAC air handler. Call an HVAC man asap, put stoppers in your sink drains.We have always requested replacement cartridges through Moen, so the leaks shouldn't be due to cheaply made parts. Do I adjust water pressure by not fully opening the shutoff valves located behind the tub? If I do, the panel that covers the shutoff valves would not lay flush to the wall. Thank you for your advice.
elsie
Greg says: Water pressure is regulated by water pressure regulators. Partially closing a valve only decreases the flow when the fixture is flowing water. Reducing flow, is not reducing pressure. Testing water pressure is done using a pressure gauge, normally screwed onto a hose bib anywhere on the building hot or cold pipe. Water pressure should meet the code requirement 80 psi or less.Other factors create water pressure, thermal expansion caused from the water heater as it heats the water, the water assumes a greater space to exist. This is why it is called thermal expansion. For example a 50 gal. water can heat incoming water 50 degrees to 120 degrees, causing a 70 degree rise. Water then expands creating pressure until that pressure is relived by a faucet opening and letting out some water.
Often this happens automatically in toilet fill valves. People say "the toilet flushed it's self" actually the toilet just purged water pressure into the toilet tank and the sound is the same as when the tank re fills after being flushed.
Our Moen single handle shower burns through cartridges. When we initially installed the unit about 15 yrs ago, the cartridge seemed to last for quite a while, these last 7 years or so, we have had to change the cartridge frequently (about once every 18-24 months). The faucet starts to drip and gets increasingly worse so that if left unrepaired eventually becomes a steady stream. What is causing this problem and what is the best solution?
Elsie
Greg says: You likely have high water pressure, or you are using imported (made in China) cartridges.My shower faucet was leaking and we replaced the Moen Cartridge with a new one. It's still leaking. Not as much. It stops for about 30 seconds and then drips for 15 seconds and then repeats. Anybody know what this could be and why it's doing that?
Michelle
Greg says: Did you use a US made by Moen, for Moen, or an import for Moen by a Mfgr. from China? Next question, what is your water pressure?My Hubby & I rplaced the pressure balance valve on our Grohe shower fixture with a new one, since it would no longer provide hot water. After putting everything back together exactly how it came apart, we had hot water, yay, but now the darn control lever won't stay in the position that we select. The weight of the lever slowly flops clockwise or counter clickwise from the 12 oclock position. What are we doing wrong? It didn't do this before. Is it possible we got a defective new pressure balance valve? Or is the problem in the lever adapter?
Thank you for your time in our frustration.
Sincerely,
Betty Schuch
Betty Schuch
Greg says: Some handles can be reversed to where the lever is on bottom and this is reduced. The balance part likely has no effect on the rotation of handle, the factory might t shoot this for you. There are many different valve designs, some have a spring that pushes a friction disc to stop this from happening.I just bought a sink drain replacement kit, and since they didn't have it in rubbed bronze finish, bought the trim kit separate. It turns out that the flange is meant to screw onto threads on the outside of the body of the pop-up assembly, but the body only has threads on the inside. Suggestions? Do I have to buy a whole new faucet or if not, how can I make the seal airtight?
Rod
Greg says: I avoid exotic finishes, I avoid retro fit or universal trim parts. If I need a oil rubbed bronze trim pop up, I buy a whole solid bronze pop up along with the faucet. Grohe . com has oil rubbed bronze pop ups that work with most any lavatory faucet. Kohler .com also sells pop ups in many finishes, but I only stock chrome finish in all valves and pop ups and finishes. Exotic finishes cost extra.Replaced my moen single handle shower cartridge and ended up with rubber gasket plugging new cartridge and not letting it turn off. Got all of the gasket cleaned out and had it working just fine. Was checking if hot and cold was right or not and now it started pulling cartridge back in and lessening pressure. Any help would be great thanks.
Reid
Greg says: Reid,The old rubber seals can come off in the valve body, this can then get into passages blocking flow. Volumes of high pressure air into the shower arm have been used to blow out rubber and other debris. The tub spout removed can be a point to blast air into as well. This is done with the cartridge removed.
Always check the cartridge when removing it to see that all in removed so rubber can not get forced into passages.
I installed a new Delta shower one handle. Up and down movement shuts it off. Now, I can turn the adjustment to give hot or cold water, but it will not blend the two levels for a usable temperature. You kit number is rp54870. When an intermediate setting for the temperature is selected, the shower head reduces it's pressure. My question is how to properly put the handle to allow the blending of the hot and cold water. Please reply
Sun Pokorney
Greg says: Did you install the correct ball in the valve? there are two types of delta balls.I installed a new Delta shower one handle. Up and down movement shuts it off. Now, I can turn the adjustment to give hot or cold water, but it will not blend the two levels for a usable temperature. You kit number is rp54870. When an intermediate setting for the temperature is selected, the shower head reduces it's pressure. My question is how to properly put the handle to allow the blending of the hot and cold water. Please reply
Sun Pokorney
Greg says: I can not tell what is the trouble by your description. I do not know the part numbers for Delta. If it is a pressure balance valve, the cartridge is likely reversed or the handle on reversed.I can be handy around the house but usually I learn from mistakes. Not the guy who uses the internet to solve household problems. This time I started looking on you tube. Found your video on replacing a Delta faucet. I was finished in 15 minutes and my wife thinks I'm the man! Thanks!
David
Greg says: David,Great, there is a tip jar on main page of DIYplumbingadvice.com. We incur costs for providing excellence for "free". Your thanks however, is much appreciated and we are glad to help.
I have a Delta single head faucet in the shower. It was dripping one drop about every 30 seconds so I had the cartridge seals replaced. It was fine for about 5 days then it's dripping again. This time it just runs slightly about every 4-5 minutes, dripping about 1/3 cup of water.
Leslie
Greg says: What is your water pressure? that will cause a drip in any valve. Did you use OEM parts, did you tighten the dome nut and ring inside it. You might have high water pressure.I have the kind of pop up plug that has no rod assembly under the sink. It works by pushing down once to seal it, then a second push is supposed to make it pop open again. Mine has become deeply stuck in the drain, it is below the lip of the flange. The sink has water in it.. I've tried using the toilet plunger to create suction and pull it up but it does not budge. How do I get this plug out of the sink?
Denise B
Greg says: Replace the whole pop up assembly. This is likely a plastic body pop up made in China and was not built to repair. The unit screws on to the basin from the bottom on the basin. To find a pop up that does not need the lift rod will require online search. I do not know of a retail store that sells just the pop up.If all you want to do is pull the plug, use a drill to drill a hole in the thing and use a hook to pull it out.
The video on this page will show how to disassemble that drain plug: http://www.diyplumbingadvice.com/drains/bathdrain.html
I was cleaning around my bathroom fixture and the neck of the faucet just popped off and water started gushing. Quickly turned off the water under the sink, but can't for the life of me figure out how to pop the next back on the base..... Help!!!
Nancy
Greg says: Replace the fixture/faucet with a domestic or well made product that will not be prone to falling apart. If you are talking about a 4" ctr. faucet, Grohe makes one that is less than $200. that is a great faucet on all aspects.Sink blocked wen goes down comes up in washing machine wen spin washer comes nearly fills up sink whole kitchen stinks
Thelma
Greg says: Thelma,You have a drain blockage in the pipe that drains both the sink and washer. A snake in the cleanout on either of them. A professional snake machine is $1700. so either rent one or call a plumber.
I was cleaning around my bathroom fixture and the neck of the faucet just popped off and water started gushing. Quickly turned off the water under the sink, but can't for the life of me figure out how to pop the next back on the base..... Help!!!
Nancy
Greg says: You give me little info. as to if the faucet is single or double handle and what your water pressure is. Likely you need to replace the faucet and with one not made in China. Real faucets do not fall apart. Send me a picture or a couple hundred description on all that I NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE.If all you want is easy & short, call a plumber.
We were given a goose neck kitchen faucet with a pull down spray nozzle. I would like to use it in a bathroom because it fits well over a raised bowl sink. I don't want the spray nozzle. Would the faucet still work properly if I cut out the pull down spray nozzle and just let the water flow naturally from the goose neck?
Thanks!!
Lisa
Greg says: No it would flood the inside of the gooseneck.Hi, I have a hot and cold water faucet but I only have a cold water input. Can I just go ahead and install it and ignore the hot water pipe?
Ethan
Greg says: Yes, but cap off the hot side of the faucet. When you say, "Faucet" you mean something other than a shower faucet, correct?I just moved in to a house I'm hooking up the washer and both the hot and cold connector in the wall seem loose. Should I replace them or call a plumber. When I connected the hoses and turned the water on they both leaked
Stephanie
Greg says: Stephanie, I just replaced the flooring in my house today and changed the washing machine valves in the wall. Most of the time someone moves into a house the valves are over ten yrs. old,change them. You say, "loose" that does not tell me if the pipe is loose or what...You do not tell me if they are compressed on to copper, or screwed onto brass nipples, or what. Are they in a recessed plastic box in the wall or sticking out of the wall. You need not be short in description unless you are lazy and un willing to communicate the details that I need to help you, I can not see your wall and pipes nor read your mind. Send a picture?Hello,
Our plumber replaced the cold water faucet cartridge on our Moen 3 handle tub and shower faucet. Now, the cold water faucet handle only rotates a quarter turn instead of a half turn like the hot water faucet (with original Moen cartridge) does. Also, I did a rough timed measurement, the cold water faucet produces slightly less water than the hot water faucet. Why would this be and how can it be fixed so both faucets handles rotate the same distance and produce roughly the same amount of water?
Thanks!
Yvonne
Greg says: There are stops built into the stems of the faucet, these stops are out of position. Repairing Moen 1222 stems can be difficult. Not all plumbers are trained professionally or trained on all products.I have a 3/4" copper pipe with no thread for my bathtub; I need a slip on tub spout. Do they exist?
Adam
Greg says: I do not know of any, no. A possible solution would be a 3/4" male adapter on the end of the copper. You can use a shark bite fitting that is re moveable and cut the copper to fit.My newly installed single handle moen shower is only giving hot or cold water and doesn't produce warm water at all. What do you think is causing it and how do I fix it?
Sophia
Greg says: You say newly installed Moen shower valve, do you mean new valve or new cartridge? what valve? what cartridge? You give me little info.Why open sink tap before adjusting water pressure regulator?
Greg says: Known accepted and published standard is to adjust water pressure regulators with water flowing. If reducing pressure while no flow is present the valve can be damaged. Adjusting up is best because the factory say to.I recently bought a house and it came with e Laing Thermotech E1 series recirc pump. After looking at your diagrams, I think it might have been installed incorrectly. It is connected to a dedicated return line and tees into the top cold water supply. It is also mounted upside down. During the day the pump makes a loud hammering noise even when the faucets are turned off. Should turning it right side up help with the noise? And/or switching it to the bottom water heater drain valve?
Johnny G.
Greg says: Most pumps need to be mounted as per mfgr. specs. Most circulator pumps want a horizontal motor shaft. all pumps have an installation manual written. Google the model and see the correct position. As for connection to the tank, the pump return to the tank wants to include a check valve and an isolation valve as well. The pipe needs a min. of 1/2" pipe insulation and an aquastat, (thermostat), Timers are an option. Air can be created in cavitation of flow if velocities are too fast and or fittings are too close to the pump. Best to have a min. 6" of pipe both in & out of pump in straight line so to not cause cavatition, (making air thus noise). Some single handle faucets can allow a cross connection of hot and cold water to cross over into the other side.The best system in found at Got hot water .com. I would need more info. to be more specific on your fix.
i replaced an existing Moen shower handle. Off and on by clockwise and counterclockwise. The water turns on but as I get to the hot water the water drips out of the head as if the pressure is severely reduced. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Dean
Greg says: The handle is not what controls the water, the handle turns the cartridge, and the cartridge controls the water. If the cartridge was changed and the flow is restricted, the vlve body might contain a balancing spool that is stuck. Is there a quarter sized slotted plug on the face of the body behind the round trim plate?Our house was built many years ago and whoever installed the plumbing reversed hot & cold on the bathtub. We recently needed to replace the faucet. My question is, since faucets are factory set to hot-left & cold-right and ours is reversed, will this cause any issues with the internal workings of the faucet?
LF
Greg says: NO, unless it is thermostatic in design. Pressure balance type will not be bothered. Instead use a Moen Positemp valve and the H& C are reversable!.Just watched your video on the delta shower faucet (http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml). I replaced everything and the cups seem to seal now, as I have no more leaks when the handle is off.
However, I do have a new dribble leak coming from around the ball when the water is on. I dissasembled and reassembled, with the same problem. Any thoughts?
Mickey D
Greg says: The dome nut has a ring to adjust the ball seal. this will stop the dribble you refer to.Hi Greg
I have PVC piping for my waste water, I have copper tubing throughout the house for my water supply.
I had a break in the PVC pipe which we had to repair. We had to cut out a portion of the pipe and where it was located we had to insert a Rubber boot which has 2 metal clamps on it. These boots can be used according to what I have read.
Anyway, since the repair, when I run the hot water only, it takes about 1 minute or 2 and then I hear a knock in the PVC. This knock will continue every minute or so until I turn off the hot water.
I wrapped the copper tubing with the foam wraps thinking that may be causing the knock.
I'm wondering if my water is too hot. When I go into the basement and feel the PVC pipe it is warm, so maybe the hot water is causing it.
Or is there air pocket somewhere in the PVC?
I have my wall and ceiling completely open and darn if I can find what is causing this
Any ideas?
Sandra Brown
Greg says: Sandra,Were copper pipe straps removed and not replaced when repairing the waste line? what is your water pressure?
I have a house that was built in th 80's, I had a leak where the PVC pipe actually pulled apart at a joint. We had to open up the wall and the ceiling to access the pipe. We fixed the pipe and part of the PVC has a rubber boot with clamps on it.
When we run HOT WATER only, after about 3 mins, the PVC makes a loud knock like every minute. If I run the Hot water in the Kitchen it happens, same thing in my dishwasher, shower, or sink. Its just the HOT WATER.
I know the noise is coming from where the rubber boot is. But it is not hitting any copper pipes, we wrapped the pipes next to the PVC.
This only started happening after we repaired the PVC
I don't want to put up the wall or the ceiling until I find out how to stop the KNOCK.
It will knock once, then about a minute later it will knock once, and so on<
Ideas?
Sandra Brown
Greg says: PVC pipe in walls? or do you mean CPVC? if CPVC, is there also copper? what is your water pressure? rubber patches are not good. need to replace with code compliant fitting. Were straps removed to make repair?Washbasin tap, upward movement turn on rotating to move from cold to hot. It has recently all but seized. I tried wd40 and then light oil, no improvement. Would some other medium help such as graphite or silicon ?
john
Greg says: Not likely, the resistance to movement is in the valve behind a seal caused by hard water and likely a cheap faucet made in China.I found I had a slab leak. Today my plumber came and capped off the manifold to outside back faucet,from hall bathroom. Now I have to decide what to do. He wants to use front faucet run PVC under ground to to with a lever to use one other, or both. Me being a perfectionist wants my old faucet back. Also for resale value of my home. What do i do? Any other suggestions?
Lee
Greg says: Repipe over head in attic.Greg,
I have a one-handle Delta fixture in the shower that likes to drip. I have replaced the gaskets and springs and that fixes the problem. But it starts to drip again in about a year. I've replaced them myself and had a licensed plumber do it with the same results. Is this just the way this fixture is, or is there something I can do to reduce the number of repairs?
Steven
Greg says: What is the water pressure? do you replace the ball, or just the cups?Seven years ago I hired a contractor to do extensive renovations in a townhouse I had purchased. I bought new taps for the master bathtub and totally renovated the adjacent main bathroom down to removing the drywall.
Recently I've had problems with the master tub taps not turning off. The only way to stop the water is to turn off the main water supply to the house. No shut-off valve was installed for these taps even though access to them was available then before the drywall was replaced.
Now it is a big job, requiring removal of the toilet in the adjacent main bathroom and cutting a hole in the wall there to provide access to the shut-off valve that will need to be installed.
Whose responsibility should this be, the contractors or mine?
Many thanks for your advice,
Lesley
LesleyZ
Greg says: Lesley,The code does not clearly require stops be installed in pipes to the tub valves. I use valves in a shower valve that include stops in the body of the valve that can be accessed behind the trim plate of the shower valve. That is an option. I suggest the tub valve be better than leaking in 10 yrs. and not needing to be serviced. The contractor should have done the optimum not the minimum as required by code. Having said that the consumer is responsible to chose better than min. and no state license board I know of will support otherwise. Meaning, your responsible for choosing options, contractors responsible to meet minimum code. Was a permit paid for and an inspection from the building dept.? If so it still would have passed unless the inspector opted to require stops. What make and model tub valve is leaking? what is your water pressure?
I now live in Florida in the summer. Taking a very cold shower is important to me, like the ones I took when living in the Chicago area where the water came from Lake Michigan. is there any product available that would decrease the temperature of the tepid water that comes out of the cold tap in Florida in the summer?
Neil Sheehan
Greg says: No, Phoenix Az. has the same trouble. If pipe is run through the attic the cold water can actually burn you to a point of needing to go to the hospital! Attics are 160 deg. in summer in Phoenix! Yuma Az. is another place I have lived and worked. I used to take full cold water showers and have to stand out of spray till the hot attic heated water passed thru.Hi,
Greetings for the day!
I'm finding difficulty in
selection / sizing of the vacuum breaker ( which is to be installed on
Domestic Water supply line serving to Electric Water Heaters (Commercial use) - 3 nos.
inline working simultaneously based on demand
in two conditions:
1. Considering One Vacuum Breaker installation @ Common Header for 3 Heaters - What size and Type required?
2. Considering dedicated Vacuum Breaker for Each Water Heater Supply
line (i.e. if proposed for 3 nos. vacuum breaker - -what size and type
required ? )
Relevant Details are as follows:
1.Domestic water Inlet line to the Heater - 3"
2. Max. Line Flow rate - 5.4 L/S
3. Heater Capacity - 600 Gallons.
Could you please with your expertise help me out in this for Sizing & Selection with proper
breakup / supporting references (i.e. Codes and Selection methodology) & your valuable recommendations on installation of Vacuum Breaker on Cold water supply to Electric water heater
your early response in the regards will be highly appreciated.
Thanks & Regards,
Syed Khaleelulla
Syed Khaleelulla
Greg says: Syed,I am not familiar with applications of vacuum breakers on water heaters, do not use them so my expertise is not present.
Hi Greg,
I'm trying to fix a quarter turn sink faucet and I just can't figure out how the handles are removed. I have a similar brand faucet in the bathtub with one of the handles loose, but I can't even figure how these handles work to tighten it.
I believe it is a Moen, but am not sure.
I've posted some pics to instagram if that would help.
https://instagram.com/p/1njPjWGdmm/
https://instagram.com/p/1njWl_mdm5/
Thank you for any help!
Jeff
Jeff
Greg says: See comment in picture note. Not Moen, likely american standard, look for a very small allen screw in the lever part of handle. on the cant see it side of the handle.When changing fittings on a electric hot water tank is it necessary to turn power off to it & drain the tank?
dottie
Greg says: Turn off water and power, no need to drain if all your fittings are on top of tank. When you say fittings, you mean the connectors to and from the house for hot and cold water?Hello Greg!
I have a leak in my downstairs basement bathroom shower (single handle moen). I replaced the cartridge and that seemed to make the leak worse... When I turn the sink tap on that seems to stop the shower leak but then i have a running sink. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
Evan
Greg says: What is your water pressure, sounds like it is too high...Hi Rick,
The copper pipe on my water heater is vibrating. It does stop when I flush the toilet and let the water run. But, it starts vibrating again after a moment. Do you know what it might be?
Thanks for you help.
D.Oliver
Greg says: You have a washer in the angle stop tp your toilet or somewhere. What is your water pressure?I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: Didn't you get my reply?I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: Rene,Send me the same question on my e mail, greg@ ramonasplumber, I am having a hard time replying to you on my site...
I am replacing all of my faucets because I don't like the way they look. I am replacing moen with moen. do I need to replace the valves or just screw on the hardware
John S
Greg says: John,"Screw on the hardware" what do you mean? the "valves"? do you mean angle stops? You say faucets, you mean tub and shower? wide spread lavatory? kitchen? I need more info. how old? what is your goal? what is your budget? are you in a condo? many things can exist, many different things could be meant.
Send picture?
Greg.
Hello Everyone!
Years ago, my brother remodeled our bathroom and did the plumbing himself. He ran a toilet, shower stall, two sinks, and a bathtub off the same pipes. The bathtub is the only one with a water pressure (volume problem.) It only delivers about 20%-30% water with nothing else running and I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of what exactly the problem is and how to resolve it. This bathtub is a water massaging type with the jets etc. I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but I felt I should mention it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much,
Michael :)
Michael
Greg says: What size pipe, what type pipe, what make model tub valve, and are you meaning the filling with the spout is restricted, or the jets are weak? Is the tub valve a tub & shower, or just a tub and is the shower head same as spout? When you run the tub spout is a bucket, say a 1 gal. bucket, how many seconds does it take to fill the one gal bucket? that is the "GPM" a spout is faster than a shower head. a head is 2.5 GPM.Where do you adjust the pilot light flame on a Mor-Flo water heater. There is a plug that comes out with a hex key on the bottom of the thermostat housing. Could the adjustment be under this plug? Thanks for the help. I like your website.
Gary Lee
Greg says: I don't recommend un licensed people working on Gas appliances. The Gas company supplies gas at a pressure that is in spec. and the water heater mfgr. sets pilot flame to an optimum. There could be issues beyond just turning up a pilot. What is the reason you feel it is too low?I recently had my shower enclosure replaced and now the hot and cold water is reversed. Trouble shooting said to rotate the diverted 180 degrees but the contractor said it didn't help. The plumbing wasn't changed and there was never a problem with hot and cold before the remodel. Ant suggestions?
Renee
Greg says: What model and make of valve? all are different, you give me no info. Most likely the person was not a professionally trained plumber. If the cartridge was removed, it could be in 180 deg. out of rotation. but again too little info.Greg answered me :
Greg says: Don't turn the water on all the way?
do you do not understand. it is a single crank. if it not on all the way it is freezing cold. similar to this:
you turn the crank, at first it is cold, as you turn it toward hot it gets hotter. but if you want to reduce the pressure you have to make it colder by turning it toward cold
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89234-20602-T376-4-CP_4294737293__?productId=3534762&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar 1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=
Michael
Greg says: Thanks for the fuller description, it's a modern valve!, on the shower head arm there are restrictors sold for the purpose of almost shutting off the flow while lathering up. Different ones work differently, some will gradually throttle some will just be on or off. As for the spout. Check the water pressure to the house, this can be done with a pressure gauge, I have a couple videos on this. As well there may be built in stops behind the handle trim inside the wall. Remove handle, remove the round trim plate & look for two slotted valves on left and right sides of the brass valve body inside the wall. Partially close them for reduced flow. You must restrict them equally of the valve will not flow any water at all.we recently got all new copper plumbing for our home. while it is great, I wash my son's hair under the bathtub faucet and it comes out so strong now that it scares him. it has a diverter, there is a shower above it.
I am not a plumber and have no plumbing skills.
is there something i can buy and put at the end of that bathtub faucet to reduce the pressure coming out? we have a single crank/handle that says hot or cold.
or is my only option to buy a new set that has one hot handle and one cold handle? We would have to pay to have that installed and for the tiling to be fixed in the bathtub wall, which is tile (we have a simple curtain for getting in and out, tile walls in the bathtub area.)
Michael
Greg says: Don't turn the water on all the way?i just purchased a new air gap and the instructions tell you to install the cap with the vents facing the wall.????? so if it is clogged it will spew water all over the wall and counter..... what IDIOTS.!!!
wayne
Greg says: I aim the vent holes to the sink basin, they can be seen, but you are correct, any other direction will flood the counter top and floor as result.New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Plugged hose screen. the check valve could be plugged, always flush lined before installing new faucets.I just replaced my gas water heater (Rheem, 50 gal. direct vent). Once I had connected the water lines and turned the water coming into the house (but before I turned the gas on), I opened all the faucets. Everything worked fine, except for the first floor powder room. Neither the hot nor cold faucets worked, though the toilet did. What's going on?
KG
Greg says: Aerator plugged.I had a water meter installed in my home recently, the contracter had to turn off the water, when he finish installing the meter he turn the water back on the water runs throughtout the house except in the small half a bathroom there is no water pressure filling the water tank what could I do to get water pressure into toilet tank
John Do Good
Greg says: Debris in the aerator or pipe. blow it out. remove and clean,New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Diverter valve plugged, must remove and clean. When installing fixtures flush lines first!For about 2 years now, the hot water flow from my shower and kitchen faucet flows normally for about a minute, then the flow slows to about 1/2 of it's normal pressure. This does not happen from any of the other hot water outlets in the house. This house is a ranch and about 30 years old. Any ideas for me?
Thank you
Paul Anderson
Greg says: My methods would be isolate the branch of piping that feeds both the fixtures that get flow reduced. I assume the way to clear the obstruction is to disconnect the hot water outlet at the water heater and disconnect the shower and kitchen piping, and do flow reversal water and air hot and cold. Short of that just testing the supply tube flow w/o the faucet at the kitchen end to rule out the faucet its self. when you say shower, is it tub and shower or just shower? remove the shower head to check flow.I just watched your YouTube video about the how to replace the Delta shower values in the old 600 series. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk
Where do I find these replacement parts? I do not see the parts on Lowe's website nor Amazon. Where do I look?
Refreshing video! Can't wait to fix our leaky shower faucet!
Much appreciation!
DIYMom
Greg says: Parts for Delta valves are common in Ca. & Az. at all Lowes,Home Depot, Ace, Truevalue stores. "Delts Balls"New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Did that work?New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Hose connection has a screen that is plugged up?Hi Greg,
I just tore out my old slop sink and installed a new one. The drain is installed with no leaks. I replaced the old hot and cold water valves, then tested them with the new hot and cold water lines in a bucket and they worked fine. The facet looks to be correctly installed on the sink, and the faucet is a long handled faucet that I believe I attached correctly.
My problem is I turn on the hot and cold valves and then turn on the hot and cold faucet and no water comes out. I cannot figure out what I did wrong.....Help please!
Thanks so much, Frank
Frank Giannini
Greg says: Aerator plugged?The water inlet hose blew off the connection under my Whirlpool dishwasher. The machine is only 3 years old and the manual says to replace the hose every 5 years. What caused the hose to blow off during operation and cause major flooding in the kitchen? BTW...the hose connection at the water inlet (under the sink) and under the dishwater appears to be "pushed" on without the benefit of being secured by a nut. There is a lining inside the brass tube, but it appears that the pressure just pushed it back off.
Mike
Greg says: What is the water pressure in the house? Do you have a thermal expansion tank? do you have a pressure regulator? send me a pix of the "push fit fitting you refer to.New Vigo Dual Function SS Pull-Out Spray Kitchen Faucet, water makes it to the diverter valve but not up the hose to the faucet...Any Ideas ???
Thank you!
debbie adams
Greg says: Hose connection has a screen that is plugged.Hi,
I replaced the mixers and diverter in my shower and everything works, until I divert the water to the shower. The water pressure is correct for a couple minutes then it dies out about 50%. Is there a quick fix for this? Perhaps I tightened something too much?
Thanks so much!
Nate
Greg says: Nate,You need to tell me the make and model, valves like Price Phister can have valve body movement when the body of the valve and the stem expand. I have seen stems close all the way. I do not fault the brand, it is the after market made in China stems or the incorrect assembly of them that is likely the cause. Did you use the beveled dome like washers in the stems?
I was fixing some water leaks in a house, and when I finished installing two ball valves on the water lines just before the shower valve, I turned the water on and the water shot out for half a second, then nothing. I suspect debris in the line but I have never opened a Pioneer brand single handle shower valve. It doesn't pull out to start flow. It just turns to start it, then adjusts temperature. Would you help me understand how this valve comes out, so I can inspect it?
Respectfully,
Jeff in Utah
Jeff
Greg says: Jeff, the balancing spool in the valve body is jammed. Pull the cartridge and clean it out. Solder debris or calcium has gotten in and stopped the spool from moving.Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: First off, yes it is the contractors responsibility to install products correctly, and to test prior to tile. Next the contractors license board needs to be contacted and you need to not pay the contractor till a judgment is made by the State contractors lic. board. They will make a recommendation/ order to the contractor and if he will not do it they can pay a contractor to do it and take the cost out of the bond that the contractor has. In California anyway…Older price pfister two handle shower faucet seems like it is mixing the hot and cold together, I saw no t diverter. could some one give me an idea why
James B Williams
Greg says: James,Your question is not clear, when the cold handle is used by its self it delivers only cold water right? Same with the hot. When the two are used together they are supposed to mix.
I bought a hammered copper farm sink for my kitchen remodel. Now my husband is convinced that it will not be strong enough to handle having a garbage disposal. Could you please comment?
Kay C Pincuspy
Greg says: Too often trend and looks are chosen over function. However, support can be added to the copper basin to make a good match for a disposal. First what is the gauge of the copper? what is the basin configuration, single or double basin? Using an epoxy one adhere steel or other structure to strengthen the sink from the bottom side. Tar mastic is used to reduce vibration, but it can also adhere plates to the sink. Mounting systems are another issue, dropping basin in thru plywood sub surface then topping with the countertop surfacing is best mounting method. Clips from below are weak.I closed my faucet shut offs at the kitchen sink to remove clean and tighten the single faucet handle. after re opening I only have about half pressure of hot water at the sink. The cold is fine. I closed and re opened a few times with same result. Is it possible the valve is broken or stuck inside in a partially open position? Thanks
AL
Greg says: The angle stops below the counter top are most often washer type, the washer has a 10 yr. life, then can crumble causing debris in the flow path.my niece had to do her water line, cause it busted, and now it just dribble's in the bathroom and kitchen, the cold water but in the wash room she has good presure with the hot and cold water, what can she do
sheila
Greg says: What do you mean by the term "do" her water main? replace, repair, if so what material is the pipe?If "do" means repair, and the repair was in copper or plastic pipe, then likely debris got into the pipe and flowed to the screens on the faucet outlets and needs clearing.
i bought a dance roman tub faucet and the rough in parts as well.
Step 1 on the rough in is to remove the air test plug, and for the life of me, I can't get it removed. It doesn't say how to get it off there. The ring below it looks a bit bent as well.
I've tried prying it off, and screwing it off. Nope to either.
Any ideas?
CJ
CJ
Greg says: Most test plugs are knock out, that means with a hammer!~I closed my faucet shut offs at the kitchen sink to remove clean and tighten the single faucet handle. after re opening I only have about half pressure of hot water at the sink. The cold is fine. I closed and re opened a few times with same result. Is it possible the valve is broken or stuck inside in a partially open position? Thanks
AL
Greg says: Likely the washer broke into pieces and one of them is blocking the flow on that side. Disconnect and blow out in reverse.i replaced a bathroom sink faucet. Now my sink will. It drain. What did I do wrong?
Kko
Greg says: I don't understand your question? Faucets have nothing to do with drains.I installed a new ejector pump and when I put in the male adapter (2") I did not use a soft sealant around the threads. I just turned the male adapter into the metal threads of the pump a tad beyond finger tight (maybe another 1/4 turn).
I am reading now that some people recommend the use of a sealant on the threads and am wondering if there will be any future issues arising from the fact that I didn't use sealant. I am not overly concerned with leaks around the threaded joint, because the outgoing PVC pipe from the ejector pump has a 3/16" weep hole (i.e., it is supposed to "leak" by design). My bigger concern is whether or not the metal threads of the ejector pump itself will rust and fail because I didn't use the sealant. Just as a point of reference, the pump I installed was a Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate Sewage Pump.
Michael G
Greg says: I see no issue, this does not mean I am assuming the liability for your not putting thread sealant, but the pump will most likely wear out before issues arise. How much elevation is the pump lifting? If the elevation is over 12 ft. the result will be low velocity and GPM. This causes solids to fall out of flow and build up on pipe wall. 20 gpm is min. discharge of a sewage ejector as per code. This volume in a 2" pipe is the ratio needed for velocity min.Our Bathtub faucet has no water.. not hot nor cold.. we removed handles new cartridges.. the pipes to the handles shoot water out when handles are removed but the faucet pipe just trickles . we removed the faucet. so its just the pipe . they are not frozen or root problems. any ideas
collette
Greg says: Send me a picture of the valve or tell me the make and approx. year of mfgr. Is it a 2 or 3 handle valve?when you drain washing machine the kitchen sink and toilet make noise
tim johnson
Greg says: You have a main drain or vent problem, action is needed to avoid water damage.what part number is the posi temp puller you used, i tried with moen standard puller and it would not pull. thanks wade 913-207-0480
Wade Torrey
Greg says: Wade,The posi temp puller is the larger one .It says for Moen Posi Temp Tub/shower on the lable. Most hardware stores carry it. Many off brands make one that fit as well. Moen makes a couple different ones too.
I have a moen legend moentrol single knob handle shower faucet only. This morning when I went to turn on the water, the knob moved but no water comes out. I know the shower head is ok. Any ideas or help on what is wrong and how easy it is to repair on your own?
chrissy
Greg says: The balance spool is jammed the water can be turned off, spool removed cleaned or replaced and flow will resume. I usually replace the cartridge too. The OEM made by Moen magnum cartridge is the one to use, not the "For Moen" by Lasco, or Truevalue or Pasco or other.My radiators are not working properly. The last few radiators are not getting flow through. I've turned all of and turned them back on with the furthest radiator being first letting that get warm and then working back. They worked fine until this week.
could anybody advise on what the problem may be.
thanks Craig.
Craig
Greg says: Craig,Heating systems like yours require skilled and certified experts to t shoot and repair. Boilers are very complex as are piping loops. Some are steam, others are hydronic, some even have glycol in them. Air can cause hell and danger in these systems. Get a local specialist with formal education not just a handyman.
Replaced the hot water heater. The pop off valve leaks, not all the time just every now and then. replaced valve with 2 other valves and it still acted the same way. carried the heater back to lowes and swapped for new heater and the new one acted the same way. checked the water pressure outside and it first read 76-78 lbs. checked later and it read 60 lbs. any suggestions. it is a 2 story house and water heater is on 1st floor. If regulator is bad could it cause the pop off valve to release the pressure? Thanks
leon
Greg says: First off, you have a potential dangerous situation and best call a professional.As for water pressure, I assure you that pressure relief are not supposed to "Pop off". This is an indication you do have high pressure. Your "76-78" PSI statement is likely inaccurate. Water pressure is a moving target, regulators leak pressure into the system slowly. After the pressure builds up when you are not measuring, there is dander and plumbing damage. Then the issue of thermal expansion, another force with the power to blow the relief valve off. A lazy hand gauge will show all this pressure movement. A lazy hand gauge has 2 needles, one is current pressure reading, the other id where the pressure was at the highest. The Pressure regulators do not last forever, how old is the one there now? Water heaters are not a DIY project, see the Myth Busters video on water heater explosions. Or the video made in the 1930's by Watts mfgr. who invented pressure & Temperature refief valves.
Hi Greg
Thank you for your video on dishwasher loading. Can you tell me what direction does the lower spray arm go? clockwise or counter clockwise? I have wide rimmed soup plates that tilt down when loaded and they nest making access to the bowl centre difficult. If I knew the direction of the lower spray arm I could load the bowls to face into the lower spray and more water may get into the bowl center.
My dishwasher is a Whirlpool similar to the one in your loading video.
Regarding the cutlery basket, I like to bring it in to the dishrack as I believe it gets a better water flow there.
Thanks again, your video was very helpful. Sharon.
sharon
Greg says: Look at the holes in the spray arm, this will show you the direction of rotation. Thanks for you indulgence and viewing the first video we made. The newer ones are a bit better sound and camera. My intent was to help people who thought they needed a new dishwasher, but really just needed to load better. The owners manual has the best tips.Greg
Can I cut the dome off that's what I'm having trouble taking off.
saira cantu
Greg says: Yes, but don't cut the valve part that it screws to. Normally a heat gun used to heat ,thus expand the dome allows it to unscrew..I am replacing my delta shower handle because it is leaking but I can not take off the dome. So I can replace the piece inside (the ball with the tube). Can I cut it off. I have spayed WD 40 for 2 days. I have also been tapping it. But it doesn't want to budge.
Saira Cantu
Greg says: Just cut the handle off with a hacksaw, buy new handle, then use heat on the dome nut to loosen it from the valve body. The dome nut can be replaced too.Hi. I replaced the top of my Coastmaster Mark III fill valve with an OEM top to stop a running toilet and all went well. The tank fills and water shuts of right at the line with no extra running. However, now water leaks out of the top when filling and that's how the tank is filling--the water to the over flow seems to be working fine though. I tried putting the old top and its parts back on and now they leak the same way now also. The top is tightened correctly as you can't put the locking pin in if it isn't. What can I do to get the fill valve to work correctly? Can you double up the O rings? Thanks.
Greg says: If the leak just fills the tank and does not spray on bottom side of lid and escape the toilet tank, then let it happen. If you want a better ball cock, use a fluidmaster 400a.Hi Greg, Our toilets clog super easy with too much toilet paper. We have had them unclogged by professionals several times while we had our home warranty. Now we don't have that anymore and so we are trying a closet auger. We watched your video several times but can't stop the auger from curling up on itself. I keep thinking its finally going in and I'm twisting it, but the coil starts showing up again. How do we stop that? Also is the coil suppose to be going up or more straight back in the toilet? Please help, we don't want to start paying tons for a plumber.
Thanks!
Brianna
Greg says: Brianna,Did you get a General wire brand or Ridgid brand Auger? or a China spin of cable? The professional grade augers are more expensive for a reason. We pros are not spendy fools. The quality of a cable is needed to not curl up. Another issue is the years of training a plumber gets before being worth his/her over priced fees for "Just " using an auger. It requires a "best cable" and skill and one more thing.
Some toilets just plain need replacing. What make model/year of mfgr. is your toilet?
Hi Greg… saw your video on roots in the toilet drain and turns out I have the same problem. In my case though, the roots had completely infiltrated the drain. So much so that I can remove them physically as hard as I try. Have you ever come across a drain completely full of roots? Can you offer any suggestions on how to clear the drain in this case?
Thanks.
Jesse
Greg says: There is a skill involved in pulling the root ball out of a pipe where the roots have grown so much that it is like a cork in a bottle neck. I have used a closet auger to hook on to the root ball. Remove the toilet, send down a professional grade auger having a retrieving tip on it to "screw" into the root ball then pull it out.Our house is 40 years old on a concrete slab. We have a fairly new Whirlpool HE washer. For years our drain line overflowed in the wall and made a mess. We had to get the roof vent cleaned out at least once a year ( this vent is over the kitchen sink about 8 feet or more from washer). We finally had a plumber dig up the floor in the laundry room and vent the line. ( it is vented in the wall about 4 to 5 feet above the drain line. ) We still have not replaced the sheetrock because the line is still overflowing when the machine drains. Not bad but enough to get the floor a little wet. I am still having to watch it and turn it on and off which is a pain in the butt. Our plumber said to get a cone thing to go down in the drain line which would force the water out, what do you call that, do you think that will help or do you have other suggestions?
thanks
Denise Reed
Greg says: The vent is only used to vent the drain, not make it drain. Adding a vent directly on the laundry drain line was a good thing, but a cleanout installed at the laundry drain would allow someone to snake the laundry drain. Snaking from the vent directly above the laundry drain allows snaking to be done with out a clean out, but it is more work to take a snake on the roof than it is to use one on the ground. The laundry drain needs snaking. Laundry lint mixes with fats oils and grease from the kitchen drain and forms a blockage when the two are tied together.As for the "cone" you ask about, I assume you mean a "drain king" or a drain Blatter device used to clear soft blockages. If so, that is not the way to clear a build up from laundry/kitchen waste mixed. A snake is the tool to use. Why did you replace the vent instead of snaking the drain line? and why not snake it now?
Hi I have a aqualisa shower, and where to twist it on and off its leaking all the time, how do I stop this
daviid hanley
Greg says: Use teflon Tape on treadsHi I have a aqualisa shower, and where to twist it on and off its leaking all the time, how do I stop this
daviid hanley
Greg says: Teflon Tape.Our tub has a spout with a diverter to turn on the shower but it keeps tearing the seal in the diverter. What causes this?
glenn baird
Greg says: Sharp edges in the spout, hard water build up. Change the spout. Delta makes a great diverter spout. It has a pull down action, not a lift up knob. The mechanism is different altogether.Used Danze single handle tub n shower the valve installed is faulty. The lever that is used to turn shower or tub on isn't working correctly. When lever is turned to tub only, water drips from shower. The contractor has already tiled in my shower. Isn't this something he needed to make sure worked correctly prior to tiling the shower. When I asked him this he laughed nervously and shrugged shoulders. Then proceeded to suggest a few ways to fix the problem. Open wall with tile, or go through dry way located in hallway.
Danze will replace valve for free but not pay for repair job. Is it the contractors mistake and now his responsibility to fix all for no cost to me? He, the contractor, came recommended, and did all the work himself.
Pls advise. It took me month to decide on what and how I wanted the bath to look like, and this is such a disappointment.
Jeanne
Jc
Greg says: Yes the contractor is responsible for the valve, IF he sup[plied it, if not, you are responsible.Having said that, is the leak in the body of the valve, or in the operation of the valve. Just put new guts in it!. Send me picture of the valve body, tell me the model...
Changed the cartridge at my dads house and I'm almost positive I put it in hot side left and cold side right. My dad says a couple people used it and the hot water was luck warm. What could the problem be? Thank you.
Shawn
Greg says: Shawn,What valve are you talking about?
Hi. I have a toilet that runs for about a minute after a flush. The tank has filled, but it continues to run. Lifting the float arm will stop the running, however if released it will start running again for the minute. The over flow tube is sitting correctly over the over flow pipe, not down in it and the flapper is not leaking water out of the tank. What could be the cause and how to fix it? Thanks
E. H.
Greg says: You need a new ballcock. As well your water pressure needs to be below 80 psi, as per code.Greg help me out pls. Changed the location of the water heater now that its all back together all faucets and sinks hot water wrkd great except for the one that goes to the shower head its just a trickle of hot water the cold is fine. Guide me pls
reynaldo
Changed location of the water heater so i had to shut everything off, got it all back together now the hot water does not reach the shower head, every other Faucet wrks well. I blew the system with air from my compressor and nothing. What sure
reynaldo
Greg says: What make/model shower valve? debris likely got into the balancing part of the shower valve.replacing Moen single handle bathroom sink faucet, while pulling old cartridge it got broken in half,the matel part came out all but plastic casing broke in half,the stuck half is still stuck,and some small pieces have blocked the water coming out.........what to do please help ? thanks. Akdru
akdru
Greg says: You are supposed to use a Moen cartridge puller so that does not happen. If that happens, there is a puller tool that is designed to extract the parts. Pasco tool, they are sold in hardware stores.How old is the faucet? use vinegar to dissolve the hard water that is holding the thing in there.
Hi, hoping you can help me...
Recently had a ceramic handle break on a price pfister faucet, similar to the 31 series Savannah, but with cross handles instead, found the 910-830 cartridges at the 5th plumbing store (with old cartridge in hand) and installed them today, put handles back on and no water flows out the spout. Either side hot or cold. Spout has no aerator, took it off and cleaned it. Pulled one valve (intake?) line, hot side, replaced it, can't figure out how to pull the other as it is a narrow copper pipe and did not come loose when the bolt was removed at the top where it meets the sink. Water does flow up the lines, however. Don't know why it is not getting past the cartridges or whatever its supposed to do. Please help, would really like my kitchen sink back. The dishes are piling up.
Cain
Greg says: Cain,The faucet is a two handle one? pull the spout off so you can clean the body that the spout pivots on. Send a picture to my ph. cell. 760-788-2889 then call me I will look at my messages find the picture and know better.
I usually do not repair kitchen faucets anymore, they are all made in China and have difficulties as you can see. They are so cheap, it is easier to replace them. The more expensive ones $500 plus, do not break usually. I install Grohe Lady Lux Cafe with cast stainless steel bodies...
Did you use the old angle stops under the sink to stop the water when you repaired it? if so, the crumbled parts from with in those things can flow up into the faucet body when turning the water back on.
I have a three (3) handle system for my shower, obviously one handle for hot, cold, and the main one in the middle to divert the water from the tub to the shower head. Nothing leaks when shut off. When I turn the cold water on, water shoots out the back of the handle and splashes onto the tile wall behind it. Do I need to replace the entire stem, seat, and handle. Or something completely different?
Jon
Greg says: There are many brands and as such many different stems. The popular brand Price Pfister has a stem with a bonnet nut and all you do is tighten it and your done.Other brands are different, I need more info. not all stems are the same.
Greg says: Is the shower valve a three handle valve? Hot, cold and diverter? or is the spout a diverter spout? what make is it? How old of a valve?You demonstrate the use of a slip fix unit for repair of pvc pipe. Where can I purchase a unit is San Diego County
Thanks
John Rose
Greg says: Most any store selling PVC fittings. Lowes, Home depot, ACE, True Value...Hello,
I had someone come out to fix a leaky faucet in the shower. This is a three knob system. Apparently the hot water was the one leaking. Plumber installed new cartridges ( rebuilt all 3). Rebuild the diverter stem they had removed and reinstalled it, still pouring water.My tenant says after he left the shower has no pressure. Plumber went back and said he tried to reinstall the old stem from the middle knob but it didn't work so he installed a new Tub spout diverter. It worked for a day. Now tenant is having the same problem with no pressure to the shower. Any idea what is going on?
Thank you
Kristen
Greg says: Kristen,The diverter washer, or one of the other stems washers was loose and it went up into the passage that supplies the shower head. Remove the diverter stem use compressed air in a surge blow out the passageway. Make sure the stem being used for the diverter is the correct stem, there are hundreds of different ones.
Take a picture of the removed stem and one of the shower valve on the wall, send to me.
Wanting to know what is 3 bars of water pressure ? What is that in PSI
Lyle Linares
Greg says: A bar is about 15 PSI, so 3 bar is about 45 psi.Hi I put a shower in and just fitted attachment on taps. My hot water tank is near to the floor my cold water tank is above my hot water just trickles out the cold is fast do I need to buy mixer taps and fit the to pipes under bath ? Thanks for looking
Gill
Greg says: Hey Cool Lady, I need more info. the description you give is too vague, Is your water gravity fed? is your water pressure over 45 psi? what are your pipes made of? You say you put in a shower and fitted to taps, do you mean a new shower enclosure and new valve? Do you know the make and model of valve?We a stall shower with moen single handle. When we turn it on only hot comes out. We have taken the handle off and shut off the hot water via the turning the screw and left the cold on. Nothing comes out. We tried knocking on the regulator valve without change. It runs extremely hot only. Any ideas or suggestions.
cherie
Greg says: I need more info, is the valve a posi temp? does it have integral stops Is the cartridge the one that came with the valve body? or a Chinese spin off. Does the cart. have a stuck spool?The shut off valve for our toilet is leaking. It has been replaced within the past five years. It started leaking when our street had a water main break. It is one that is threadless. I know how to put it on. However, it seems to be much more difficult to remove. Can you advise on how to remove a threadless shut off valve in order to replace the entire valve?
Becky
Greg says: I have a video on that on my you tube video list, (over 40 videos). The part is called a furrell nut and ring. The ring is compressed on to pipe. The nut screws on to the stop valve body, so you need to un screw it correctly. Another issue is the nut being stuck on the pipe, that is pulled off using a tool.Or, if enough copper is out of wall, cut off the valve and install a new one on.
Hello Greg,
My husband and I our in the process of renovating our 1972 bathroom. He wants to move the shower head either above the shower or to the opposite wall, demoing the wall it is currently on to open the bathroom up a bit. I feel like this is a real complicated process, and he is not a plumber. Can a novice do this job and what steps should he take?
Thanks!
Shana
Shana Hollis
Greg says: Shana,If a wall is open and the pipe to the shower head is the only pipe being moved, the task is very easy. Testing the new installation is required before covering the wall. Copper is one pipe material, PEX is another. Pipe protection is needed to avoid nail or screws from damaging the pipe where the pipe material passes thru studs in wall.
It sounds like there is constant running water outside when I'm standing at my kitchen sink. There is an outside water faucet outside below the kitchen sink window. The faucet outside has leaked occasionally, & I have tried to tighten it to fix the leak. It has seemed to work. However the sound of running water can still be heard while standing at the kitchen sink. When I turn on my kitchen sink faucet, it makes a horrible racket noise. Maybe as if there is water in the line. If I turn the water on to high it makes more noise, and if I turn it down, the loud banging stops. Now, I turned on the water at the sink and I didn't have any water pressure at all. If I barely turn on the water, I can get a trickle from both the cold and hot water. In addition, there is a Brita water filter on the water faucet. I have changed this thinking it may be the problem but nope. However, I do seem to get a little more water pressure without it on the faucet. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
Greg says: Sounds like you have a leak in the concrete slab below the floor. Watch the videos I have on water pressure, one of then is testing for leaks.Betty Ann
Greg says: So what is the flow at each fixture? a stop watch can be used, 2.8 gpm is older flow max at kitchen faucet, then 2.5 gpm, and 2.0 is current there are 1.8 gpm aerators for kitchen faucets. Lavatory faucets are generally 2 gpm, showers 2.5 or 2.0, gpm. Laundry /service sinks can be w/o aerator and flow 4 gpm. Avg. water pressure is below 80 psi, 55 psi is best. what is your flow using a 1/2 gal bucket?One day I turned on the water to our utility sink (located in the basement, in the same room with the water heater and inside water reservoir tank), and only a tiny stream came out of both the hot and cold valves. Water pressure was fine up until that day and now nothing but this trickle has come out of either valve since. It does not sound like any water is being restricted, just no flow to speak of. Water in the rest of the house is fine, and the outside spigot on the same water line as the utility sink works fine. My husband and I are completely stymied. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance!
Betty Ann
Greg says: Is there an aerator on the utility sink faucet?My husband and I just changed the stem valves in our shower/tub and put on new faucets, (the valves and the handles are Harcraft), when we turned on the hot water the pressure was excellent then we heard a slight pop sound and then the pressure became very low, turned on the cold faucet and the pressure there was also low. My husband removed everything and checked and found no debris, what else can we check?
P Johnson
Greg says: Sounds like a washer had come loose and is inside the valve body or somewhere blocking flow. Did you change the seats? when you removed the stems, were the washers on them? Is flow restricted both shower and spout? Possibly removing stems and using compressed air into spout will blow out the blockage.Hi!
I tried to replace my shower handle the whole weekend going back and forth to Home depot. I tried the universal handle but they did not work cause the thing to attach the handle to is an AA type (figured this out at home depot). Where can I find single shower handles that are affordable and would fit the AA part?
Thanks a lot.
Greg says: No universal handles work in my experience since the operation of the valves is different the post stem is different the everything is different. To replace parts in a plumbing fixture you need to know the make and model just like cars. What make is your valve?My single handle Gerber tub faucet (circa 1986) is leaking. I removed the Philips screw and handle cover (stainless, tear-drop shape)but cannot get the base of the handle off, which also has that weird shape. I even tried fishing around with an Allen wrench through the hole that the Philips screw was in, thinking maybe there is another screw to loosen. The pipe sleeve can be rotated around but not the base of the handle. None of the plumbing videos on YouTube show this particular model of faucet. Suggestions?
Lou H.
Greg says: The handle is corroded on to the post of the stem, pull harder or use heat. If you go to Gerber online you can see a parts exploded view to see the parts arrangement. This is why I use a silicone paste when assembling fixtures.Just bought a mobile home, the tub/shower has a Moen handle for the turning on and off of the water. The handle sits at 6 o'clock and will rotate both directions. The problem is the water will continue to drip constantly and playing withthe handle toset it to off resultes in either a large run to a small drip. Can you advise on how to fix this?
Thankyou and have a Blessed Day.
Frank Bell
Greg says: Replace the cartridge as video shows, make sure your water pressure is below 80 psi static.We have an outside pipe that drips first thing in the morning then stops mid morning. Could you please advise
Margaret
Greg says: Your comment is way to brief to have a clue. Do you mean a 3/4" copper elbow on the end of the pressure and temp. relief line?Send a picture, tell me the facts, what is your water pressure?
Saw your video on Delta single handle shower faucet. Very well done. However after rebuilding my faucet, water does not pass through valve to shower head. Assuming there is an obstruction between faucet and shower head; I know water is reaching the faucet. Any ideas?
JTC
Greg says: Pull off the shower head and run water with out it on the pipe!Watch all of your video - nice job!!
Question: When I turn on the cold water side of a 3-hole faucet it makes a loud hammer/banging sound. You can feel the vibration close to the handle. The hot water side is fine. Water pressure was checked and is at 65 psi.
Any Idea on how to fix? Might the stem be bad on that side?? Appreciate your thoughts.
Mark Scofield
Greg says: Mark,The washer on the cold stem is loose or the seat is loose or both. Change seat and washer out. May as well do hot side as well.
I bought a house recently that the inspector indicated has copper pipes for plumbing. The house is in Oregon and was built in the 1989. There are 2 full baths and one bath with just a sink and toilet. When I am in the shower and someone uses a lot of water (toilet or washing machine typically), the water temperature in the shower spikes inversely. So, if the toilet flushes with cold water, the shower gets scalding hot!
What is the cause of this and what would be proposed solutions. I've heard solutions are (1) repipe the entire house with that PEX pipe and (2) have a plumber install a thermostatic valve adapter to each shower.
What say you?
Thanks!!
Steve
Steve
Greg says: This is very common, and why pressure balance valves are mandated today. Thermostatic valves are one type and pressure balance is the lesses expensive of the two. First thing I do on any job is check the pressure of water w/o any water being used. it needs to be below 80 psi. have you done that?I am no fan of copper pipe, but copper pipe is not the cause.
faucet in the tub the water is either all hot or all cold. no warm at all.what can i do to fix it?
donald tribley
Greg says: Donald,Much more info. needed, make, model, pressure, age,
Hi Greg,
Just came across your site while looking for an explanation for an odd sound that seems to be related to our water pipes.
When the water is off (yes, off and not running), there is a very low, droning humming vibration sound that we can hear throughout the house. We live in a small split level townhouse. The sound is loudest in the downstairs 1/2 bath. The next loudest room is the upstairs bathroom which shares the high section of the downstairs 1/2 bath wall. The only time the sound stops is when we either flush either toilet or run any of the faucets in the house. As soon as we turn the water off (or the toilet finishes filling), the sound comes back.
Any idea of what this could be?
Much thanks and appreciation for whatever insight you can provide!
Anonymous
Greg says: I suspect you have a leak and the sound is from the very slow flow moving past a pressure regulator washer/seat. The water makes noise when moving and when a small amount moves thru a very tight opening, it groans. One issue to check is your pressure regulator. What is the street pressure? what is the house pressure, where is the regulator, and listen closely with your ear to the regulator, you will find the source.My outside overflow pipe constantly drips especially first thing in the morning.If I run the hot water tap it normally stops.Will this be an expensive job for a plumber to fix please?
F R
Greg says: Fredrick, that is not an overflow pipe, it is a temperature and pressure relief line discharge. Your pressure is too high, you need a new regulator and possibly a thermal expansion tank.Gred: Thank you for your comment. Are you saying that I must be certain that there is nothing getting in the way of the hose to move freely under the sink? Thanks for clarifying, Faye.
Faye
Greg says: Faye, I forget, what hose? the pull out hose for a kitchen faucet? If so, yes, and is things are in way of hose, use a sheet of cardboard vertically between the hose and object. This might make a sliding sound, but , will stop the pull out hose from catching on shut off valves or anything else.GALVANIZED PIPE PROBLEM
I am a single parent an have purchased an older home. Someone took the A/C unit and the Hot Water Tank so the house has been without water for over a year. It has galvanized pipe. Someone told me I have to replace all the faucets in the house even though they are new and the galvanized pipe because rust has surely gotten in the lines and will clog the faucets. Isn't there an easier and cheaper way to do this? I do not have the money for it, it's August and I need water. Isn't there a chemical or an enzyme I can buy to put in the hot water tank to flush out lines without replacing everything? HELP ME PLEASE. I HOPE SOMEONE IS READING THIS THAT HAS HAD THE SAME ISSUE BEFORE AND CAME UP WITH AN EASIER AND CHEAPER WAY TO DO THIS.
Moneyless Single Parent
Greg says: More info. is needed, call me 760-899-2889I have an older Delta shower/tub faucet & then button tab under the faucet handle than controls flow to either the shower or tub has broken with water spraying from around the edges. Is this part replaceable or do I need to replace the whole faucet /
Jim
Greg says: Jim, That is called a diverter stem and that is a part sold in store. It looks like a dime sized paddle on a push/pull stick. it is held into the valve body with a nut. Use only real Delta made parts.I have a single kitchen faucet with a pull down spray handle. The faucet rotates left and right but immediately returns to the center on its own and will not stay over the left or right side. Why.
Faye
Greg says: The hose goes thru the center of the faucet body and that is path of no restriction or resistance.Our pipes have been knocking after we flush our toilet. We turned off the water pressure at the pump, drained the water out the lines, then closed the taps and turned the pressure back on. once we did that we now have no running water out of our bathroom sink. Our tub water runs, and the flush works fine but we have no hot or cold water coming out of the taps. Do you have any suggestions on what may have happened and how we may be able to fix this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Greg says: You caused debris in the pipes to be stirred up when you turned the water back on. The debris flowed to the smallest point in the line the the outlet of the fixture. You might have several issues going on. Air in pipes is one, high pressure is another and loose pipes in walls. I need much more info. Pipe type, age of house, location of water heater and distance to last fixture, do you have a circ pump or just a booster pump, what is the source of water, what make/type of booster pump, what pressure is the outlet of that pump... etc.I have a delta shower faucet handle that is very loose. I tighten it up with the internal screw, but handle eventually comes loose. Is there anyway to fix this?
manuel
Greg says: A lock washer and or a new OEM handle, the china made crap made to fit Moen sucks...Is there a water flow restrictor in the Moen Eva Posi temp valve itself or one in the cartridge. thanks for your time and any insight you can provide
marge
Greg says: Marge,All valves restrict flow, the cartridge restricts as well, the shower head has a flow restrictor that is by code 2.5 gpm max. Pressure and flow are two different things, to test a valve, remove the shower head turn on the valve full flow, water should flow out more than 5 gpm. usually 8 gpm. use a bucket and stop watch, calculator. I know the flow just to look at it. Send me a picture of water flowing w/o head on.
I have replaced all my plumbing with pex. Now I have water in the kitchen and the bathroom sinks. No water to the bathtub or toilet.
They are all on the same line.Could there be an air lock or something else? I'm stumped.
Mike Tenhonen
Greg says: The aerators or shower heads plugged? pull supply tubes, shoot into a bucket, while tube is off, blow on faucet spout to see if clear...I am trying to replace the knobs of an old bathtub and the trim sleeves are to long, can a replace them with shorter ones?
John Drews
Greg says: John,All trim parts are for a specific valve. To know the handle options, you must look for the mfgrs. factory options. Failure will come from one size fits all trim.
What make is your valve? how old? what finish? 2 handle, or 3 handle? or newer valve having one handle?
I replaced a 27 year old Moen tub/shower trim with a Price-Pfister universal trim kit, as my valve was still usable, but so outdated I cannot find affordable trim kits.My problem is that the universal kit back plate (escutcheon) has a foam piece in the back (I assume to help keep out water) . My valve is not mounted to anything (this house was built with that horrible plastic pipe), so when I try to tighten the back plate to lessen the 1/4 inch gap that the foam causes, it pulls the valve forward and tweaks all the other pipes. So I don't want to do that. Do you have any suggestions for 1) stabilizing the valve and/or plastic pipes it is attached to (there is no visible piece of wood to attach it to) or 2)figure out how to get that back plate on without the gap, short of removing the foam ring on the back. My only thought now is to remove the foam ring, and glue the backplate to the tub surround.
Kalinda
Greg says: Kalinda,Bad idea to use anything but Moen on a Moen any thing. Moen trim kits are at hardware stores that are made to fit the exact valve you have. The loose issue is another issue all together. Use a piece of pipe insulation or such between the valve and the shower wall that the trim plate pulls to. What you have is fixable this way. I have fixed dozens of loose valves this way every year. But use real parts, never use universal fit all plumbing parts. I repair most every valve I see when this is done. Price Phister has no place making parts for Moen.
Greg,
What is the brand name of that delta valve tool. I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks,
Matt Marquardt
Matt Marquardt
Greg says: Delta makes it. Go to Delta.Regarding knobs that control flow out of the tub-faucets or the shower: Some knobs enable the user to turn the flow on to a fixed flow-rate or off, and to control the temperature of the flow. Others allow the user to control the flow rate and the flow temperature. Individuals will differ in their preference for having or not having control over flow rate. Curious as to what you as a plumber thinks of the technologies underlying the two types of knobs.
SG
Greg says: Suresh,The knobs simply attach to stems that control valves, this is a design matter. If the valve(s) are two instead of one, it costs more. The less expensive valves are temp only, (one knob). The double valves are more expensive and both flow and temp are controlled by separate knbobs. Pressure balanced valves are generally single handle, while thermostatic valves need to have two stems, one for temp and one for volume. Cost is a driving issue. Better valves are separate stems not co mingled and have their own location on wall. There is nothing new about this, just new codes driving residential application. Some people get confused easily... so it is a choice and a budget.
Hi Greg,
My husband and I installed a new utility tub faucet, used shark bites instead of soldering (as intake lines come down from top). I have some questions because we have not done a lot of plumbing. We were told how to install the new one and also read directions but we are getting leaks around the male end of shark bite and union nut/tailpiece area. We used some teflon tape on threads (applying in proper direction) on the male end of sharkbite but none on the union nut. Is there something we are doing wrong? Could we have ruined something if we tightened it too tight? I thought you hand tighten it then use a wrench to do a 1/4 turn. We have tried plumbers grease as well on threads but no luck. We hate to call a plumber out just to get it tightened right and we don't have the money to do so anyway. Is there a product we could use to seal it better? Any advice or help is appreciated!
DIY wannabe
Greg says: Laura,2 1/2 threads are to be left outside of the socket when a male thread is fully screwed into it. Two wrenches are needed and used opposing directions while having force only in rotation not moving the pipe/valve... Plumbers paste (PTTFE) or tape is best.
Hey Greg
Your videos are great, thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a Delta Bath tub faucet, the round knob style. I have replaced everything, the ball, gaskets, springs etc. by watching your videos (thanks for that). The problem I am having prior to and after replacing the parts, is I get a lot of cold water coming out, but my hot water is nothing but a dribble. I have to play with the knob for 20 minutes or more, just to find/get some hot water to come out. Any suggestions how I may fix this and get some hot water?
Bob Cahill
Greg says: Bob,Remove the ball and springs, then turn on the water to house and wash/flush out the ports in the valve then re assemble. Making sure the cups are not in wrong.
How can i CONNECT a GARDEN HOSE PIPE to pipe under kitchen sink and what parts will I need?
shaun stockale
Greg says: Your question is not clear to me. What are you meaning by "garden hose pipe" if you mean a hose bib, just buy a hose bib and use a tee in line with the cold supply to the kitchen faucet. Or, just screw a hose thread into the aerator threads on the kitchen faucet spout.My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?
Steve
Greg says: Quick easy fix is to cut the pipe off clean and square like the instructions that come with a shark bite fitting and push fit a fitting on to stop the leak. This could be done as a quick fix to stop water waste then if you call a plumber he or she can see if you need more.Just watched your video re: how to repair a Delta tub valve. Very helpful. But I still have a problem. Some weeks ago I replaced the "washers" because of a leak. I thought everything was fine - the leak stopped. But yesterday when we used the shower for the first time we had no hot water. Cold water comes out of both sides. I have taken it apart several times and a couple of times I have hot water but no cold! Very puzzling!
This is an old (45years) unit and I have tried both the short tapered springs and the longer springs.
Can you tell me what I might be doing wrong?
Thank you,
David Butler
David Butler
Greg says: Is your cold water in the attic getting hot and if you wait all will be fine?We are trying to replace bathroom faucets. Moen are in there and we are using Pfister. the bottom part is a long black tube , but the peice on the existing has another clear tube coming off of it, what would that be for?
Linda
Greg says: Your description is incomplete, are you replacing Moen wide spreads, with Price Phister wide spreads? the stop tubes are one thing, the connector tubes for the wide spread are another, the drain tubes are another the color matters not. Only you can see the colors of the tubes. Read the installation instructions? are you trying to mix brands? that will not work. Remove the entire old ones and install the new ones using the pictures in the instructions. Take a picture and send it to me... a picture is worth a thousand words...My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?
Steve
Greg says: Shark bite fittings are sold at hardware stores, they just push on to copper. Pipe needs to be round and cut clean.I'm trying to figure why I am not getting anymore hot water to my bathroom from my water heater that's in the attic above my second story. The water heater is 13 yrs old and provides hot water when the temp is raised. Is the element going out or is the water heater worn out? Visual shows no rust around the base. I have drained it several times the past 4 yrs.
Can you give me any thoughts as to the issue?
Beau
Greg says: Water heaters life expectancy is less than 13 yrs. If it is electric, your elements need changing. since in attic best to replace the whole unit. Seriously...I am replacing my kitchen faucets and adding one that has a sprayer. My sink has a place for the sprayer but it has not been cut out and I would like to know how to do so. I have do everything as my husband is a total care patient so I learn as I go, any help is greatly appreciated.
Sharol
Greg says: Sharol, What is the sink basin made of? Stainless steel, cast iron, enamel steel, China, composite, or what. The material determines the tool to cut a hole. Stainless Steel requires a "Greenlee" punch 1-1/4" to 1-3/8" dia. A cast iron sink is not worth it, and composite will need a hole saw and enamel steel will most likely chip.Thanks! Got my ballcock replaced. I noticed your FAQ is accidentally spelled FUQ which is short for f!#k you. :-)
Casey
Greg says: Great, No, FUQ, Frequently Unasked Questions, FUQ ! I am doing a a spoof on FAQ, so often the answer to the Unasked Question is what needs being said! Clever ....When replacing ball on my delta shower handle, I must have twisted the inside valves because now the inside tubes where the springs go are at 10 and 12, not 11 and 1. So the handle when replaced does not go up and down but diagonal. Any way to fix this?
Ethan
Greg says: No, that is a risky situation, the twisted tubes could leak inside wall.I need to insert a pvc "union" into an existing 1/2" outside water line so that I can
then place a faucet in the line.
I have the fitting, but can't figure out how to use it.
Can you help?
SteveG
Greg says: Watch my video online at you tube.I found your website and Youtube videos today. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I will be installing a water pressure regulator with Sharkbite fittings myself very soon! (98PSI residential water pressure and leaking toilets)
D.R.fan
Greg says: Save water, save money, do it right! there is a tip jar on my diy home page!faucet and it works great. The problem I have now is the nozzle on my
spray hose leaks when I turn the faucet on and when diverting the water
from the faucet spout to the sprayer (by pressing the button on the
sprayer) the water will come out of the sprayer but also through the
spout (at reduced pressure.) Did I do something wrong when I inserted
the new cartridge? This is my first DIY project. Is it fixable by
replacing the spray hose or will I need to take the cartridge back out
and replace it again? Perhaps I have damaged the diverter valve in some way. Is it under the spout at the bottom of the faucet?
Jayne
Greg says: Jayne,The diverter valve in the faucet body has debris in it, Pull the spout off and clean or replace the diverter valve.
My kitchen faucet has a separate coordinating side sprayer so I assume the faucet is meant to have one. The problem is the faucet frequently loses water pressure when I'm not even using the sprayer. I have to turn the faucet off and release the water pressure in the sprAyer hose in order to get the pressure back up in the faucet, what gives?
Susan Schweer
Greg says: Sounds like an old Moen faucet, the diverter is causing flow restrictions. Tell me mfgr. send pix. get new faucet?Dishwasher Remedies for Brush stuck in Air Gap.... We watched your video for do it yourself clearing the dishwasher air gap, and we cant get the brush out. Help please.
Thank you
Marilyn
Greg says: Warm soapy water down the air gap opening at the top. If needed, un screw the hose at the disposalI have a kitchen sink whose faucet I have recently upgraded. The new faucet was a gift and did not include the functionality of a side sprayer, which the previous faucet/sink possessed.
I'd like to continue to use the sprayer, but have read/heard that hooking a standard side sprayer into a normal water line is a recipe for leakage/flooding.
My thoughts are in 2 directions.
1. Are there kinds of kitchen side sprayers which ARE capable of being directly connected to water pressure without having issues?
2. Is there some way I can connect a standard sprayer into the water system without risking trouble? For example do fittings exist which can limit the water pressure or take on the function of a diverter, such that pressure/water is only allowed in the sprayer line when it is in active use?
Thanks
Greg says: Use a pull out faucet having a hose connected to the spout end. What you have asked to do is in fact trouble.The faucet its self needs to have a diverter inside to use a separate pull out hose. Replace the recently upgraded one with one having the features you want, Or add one and have two faucets? this seems silly.
I just put a new shower head and no water coming out
joann
Greg says: Joann,Remove the head, remove the debris that got into the inlet to the head, re install.
OK here is my question. I have been told that 1/2 IPS PVC Comp. Coupling or any size is not recommended to be used on Hot water side. I have heard that the heat may melt them or that because of the hot water makes them come apart. I have also been told that it is against the UPC pluming code. So where can I get more info on this to show them if they are correct or wrong?
Mr. N
Greg says: The PVC coupling in the link is not code approved for indoor use. Very bad idea to use this fitting in plumbing. Hot or cold side.Public works came to replace my water meter. After they were done, I flushed all water lines, went to flush my toilet and I wasn't getting any water coming back in. So I flushed the line and had pretty good pressure, connected it back and I still was getting no water. I'm beyond frustrated, any suggestions would be great.
Corey
Greg says: Send pix of valve.How do I determine if my outside water faucet (bib) is threaded on or if it's a sweated fitting? I've looked all over the web and nowhere is there an explanation as to how you know.
Thanks!!
leave blank
Greg says: I know to look at it, send a pix to my site here or greg@ramonasplumber.com, or 760-788-2889 and call me tell me you sent a pix.Can I use a 1 1/4 in compression fitting on a shallow well pump? i want to take it apart in winter so it does not freeze. Im uncertain if this is considered high pressure< I watched your video and was curious> I have one on my well now and i cannot get it to prime> thought maybe that was problem.
andy
Greg says: Is the compression fitting on the suction side? or the discharge side, and what is the elevation depth from the pump and the water level and what is the pressure of the discharge, if it is on the discharge side?I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920.
All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling. It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it. I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape. What am I doing wrong? All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Judy
Judy
Hi
MR.CHICK I'm a manager of a 3 small commercial stores. The water pressure has been ok the last 20 years,but recently the new tenant move in and do some remodel with plumbing and install a tankless water heater but not been operating yet(no gas yet). Now, the water pressure seems to drop; the city came and changed the meter and show after the meter that the pressure was Ok. but when it come to the building main shut off the pressure is lower. Now when the new tenant use any of the water in their unit, it makes 2 another units have less water pressure. The building is about 60 years old with galvanize pipes. What do you think my problem is, please give comment.
david lee viboolkij
Greg says: David,The pressure is most likely fine, it is the flow capacity. Galvanized pipe does that. You might need to repipe the piping. Another possibility that could add to the flow restriction is a partially closed gate in a gate valve. Do you have gate valves or ball valves? Gate valves have round handles.
I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920.
All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling. It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it. I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape. What am I doing wrong? All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Judy
Judy
Greg says: Send me a pix to my cell and call me to remind me to look at my messages. I suppose you wrapped too little tape or wrapped the wrong direction, or the brass threads are not screwed in all the way, or your water pressure is over 80 psi.I enjoyed your post in regards to the importance of water pressure. As a home inspector, licensed general contractor, and a construction manager for the last 20 years I've seen hundreds of thousands in water damage and mold remediation repairs, which all could have been repaired with a simple adjustment or replacement of the regulator. I would like to offer my opinion in regards to your recommended water pressure. I have found from personal experience, inspecting over 2500 homes and have consulted with several local water districts and/or agencies. The recommended water pressure is 65 psi to 70 psi. Although pre 1970 or so, it was 80 psi. In that era we manufactured better plumbing fixtures with less plastic and more lead and asbestos, :) which provided more reliable function under a higher pressure. Today, we have cheaply made fixtures, in our air tight energy efficient homes, with tons of cellulose sheathed gypsum walls and ceilings. Leak+No Air Movement+Molds Favorite Food = welcome to the era of mold growth.
Jeremy Johnson
Greg says: Jeremy,Absolutely, in fact 55 psi is even better, I only use the figure 80 PSI because the plumbing code uses that as a max. and people are never going to drive 55 in an 80 zone. The issue driving people to want max is the power washing effect for those who have hair. When I set pressures at 75 to 80 range and get a call next day saying too low, I respond that is max as per code, can not turn it up any more. You can, but I can't.
Thanks so much for your appreciation of one of my pet peeves, yes, the loss of property for no good reason! I am sure you also see issues with fiberglass tub/shower stalls cracking and massive rot, as well as tile on drywall. Then they say, "I used green board" as if that was any more structural and didn't flex allowing the grout to leak.... Caulking piled up 1/2" thick with mold under it...Carpet under toilets! Sink basins mounted as to trap water at wall behind sink. And on and on... price per sq. ft. China mfgrs.
Thanks for your indulgence, I feel better now...
round knob 1/4 turn angle lav stop has slow drip [when open but stops when off] @ packing, how do u remove the screwless knob? tried to carefully pry off; or is there no packing nut?
MM
Greg says: Mark,I need more information. what are you talking about, an angle stop under a cabinet that supplies water to a lav.? or a 1/4 turn handle lavatory faucet?
Hi..
my outside faucet is too close to the wall and I am unable to repair or replace it. I will have to call a plumber. What is an average cost of repair?
I would like to have a ball park amount to make sure I am not charged an arm and a leg. I live in Central Florida.
Thank you.
Mac
Greg says: Your question is too vague, ball park is vague, so a vague answer, $120 to $250. If the wall is wood siding that needs removing first, that alone could be a couple hundred. If stucco, different, but cheaper, if metal siding ... or if brick.... if steel pipe, if copper.... if parking alone for a repair truck is $25. like downtown San Diego then .... get my point? Do not expect a licensed and possibly insured , possibly fully equipped plumber to do work for less than $100. even for a fifteen min. job, because it takes an hr. to do what is required including travel time and restocking and misc.my retention clip will not come out. It comes down in front and dives back away from you.
tim
Greg says: Use an Awl or a pointed steel tip to pry up from the top front of the cartridge opening. Then use needle nose vice grips to finish pulling up and out .I found your youtube on repairing a Delta 600 single handle shower valve a little too late. In trying to remove the cone shaped cap I used a little to much force and just as you warn about in the video I wish I saw 1st, I have twisted the copper tubes that secure it. Where do I go from here. I stopped as soon as I saw that the entire valve was turning but I am sure the copper tubing has been twisted and broken. If I continue and twist off the copper tube is this something I can fix myself or do I at this point need to call a plumber?
Thank You
Greg says: Is the water still on to the bldg.? if no water is spewing out you have time to get a plumber of your choice. Replacing the entire valve is required now. Depending on what you use to replace it with .... this task starts @ $500 and goes up fast to $1000.As i was replacing a shower head a little piece of thread broke away from the pipe. When i installed new shower head it leaks, looks like I need to fix the threaded area on pipe or cut end and rethread. Not sure how to do that and what tools are needed.
Thanks
Brian
Greg says: If you are referring to the threads on the shower arm having 1/2" threads and a bend in it, just replace the arm, they are $3.00. Use teflon tape on both ends. If the head has a non tapered female thread and a gasket inside the socket, the head is designed to fit to a perfect end pipe thread, teflon tape might work, but the end of the arm is damaged and should be replaced. The arm is an easy spin out and new one threaded back in.I changed my electric water heater. it is working the water gets really hot. The first floor in the kitchen gets really hot water. when you go up stairs to the second floor to the bathrooms. the shower and sinks stay cool. what do you think could be the problem.
Thanks
Michael
Greg says: With little information, I can only guess you have cold mixing into hot from a single handle control valve.I need to replace sink sprayer due to cracked hose. I bought unit but cannot get old one unscrewed from under sink. Any ideas how to loosen fitting? Following is photo:
http://s71.photobucket.com/user/kfisher18/library/Mobile%20Uploads
Kathy
Greg says: There is a tool called a "Nut buster" made for this. Or, before the tool, I just drilled the nut on one side and it popped off. Goggles required.For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.
Thanks
AMG3232
Greg says: You need to give me the make & model of the valve. A picture will do for a start, To greg@ramonasplumber.com or to 760-788-2889For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.
Thanks
AMG3232
Greg says: Look to see if it is a Moen, if so my video will show you. Take a picture, sent here or to 760-788-2889, I will know by looking at the handle of the shower ... Does the valve turn counter clock wise to get hotter and fully clockwise to shut off?I'm having a real issue with a leak past the threads of the sink drain pipe that slips into the p-trap. I've wrapped it with teflon tape but it still leaks. Is it ok to use plumber's putty on these threads?
billy
Greg says: Plumbers putty is not for threads, threads do not slip into a P Trap, I need a picture to understand your connection problem, sent to here or 760-788-2889. Alignment is often the cause of leaks, slip joints use a slip joint washerm threads use tape or teflon paste. If the P Trap has threads on top, that is for a slip joint washer. The threads on a P Trap are as well in the union, but that union joint uses teflon paste.We recently remodeled our bathroom, taking out the tub and doing a step in shower. We dd not repalce the valve to the shower as it was new. Now the problem is there is no cold water coming through the faucet and we are unable to adjust the temperature of the water. How can it be repaired?
Peggy Armstrong
Greg says: Depends on the valve make, and what is the problem, My guess is, yes, put in a new OEM cartridge. That should fix the problem.I am having an issue with the water coming out of my shower head when the tub spout is running. I replaced the spout thinking it was the diverter valve but no luck. Same problem. Could it be because my water pressure is too high?
Jesse
Greg says: Has the valve always done this? if the valve is plumbed wrong this will happen. Yes very high pressure will cause this. The tub spout is the priority port in a correctly plumbed valve. the path of most resistance is the shower, but too high pressure will max the capacity of the spout port causing the excess to release up to the head. 80 psi is max pressure, get a gauge and put it on the hose bib of the house while no water is running.I am asking about Improving Toilet Flush Performance. I have two toilets. In one, pouring through the overflow tube works and the vinegar goes through the rim. The other toilet has an extra outlet for the overflow, so instead of going through the rim, anything I pour in there comes in through a secondary hold in the bottom of the bowl. My question is, how can I get the vinegar to go through the rim? Should I empty the tank, open the flapper, and pour it in that way? Thanks.
Shannon
Greg says: Stuff toilet paper into the "Hole" siphon jet as it is called. pour fast using a large outlet funnel. The velocity of the vinegar will be enough to reach around the rim and the path of least resistance (siphon jet) will be most resistant.I am remodeling my bathroom and took out a wall dividing the toilet from the rest of the bathroom. the sewer vent pipe was in the wall. how do I relocate it to the side wall and back to the ceiling again? I need sewer vent pipe relocate 101 to help me with this project. thanks determined female!
determined female
Greg says: I assume you have a crawl space? If not it is jack hammer time.Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your excellent, helpful video on how to buy and a replace a toilet flapper. I didn't even know what a flapper was until I did a Google search. With the help of your video I was able to successfully buy and replace my warped flapper to stop my toilet leak.
Thank you
JS
Greg,
I'm stumped: I'm installing a 50-gallon gas water heater for some friends; When I fill up the tank the pressure release valve on the side allows a continuous steady trickle. Thinking it faulty, I replaced it with another new release valve: the same issued occurred. The water pressure in each house faucet seems just fine, so I don't think it's an issue - besides, these valves open at 150 psi. Am I just unlucky perhaps getting two new valves that are both duds? Seems very unlikely to me but I can't think of anything else to do than try a third new pressure valve. Your thoughts are duly appreciated!!
- Steve.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is too high!. "water seems ok" is not a pressure gauge on a faucet with no water moving to measure static pressure. 80 psi or less is needed. There is also a mandated thermal expansion tank required. Water pressure is dangerous. No, you do not have two faulty PTRV's, you do not even have one defective PTRV. You need to effectivly deal with the pressure.I have a rental condo in AZ. The tub faucet while trying to remove the pipe it started moving. I've noticed all the piping around the condo does not have any support for the hoses outside.. So I should have known the house would have the same bad plumbingg.
Just wondering what would be the best for removing the faucet and if that pipe was treaked then will I have to cut out the tub/shower wall out. There is the neighbors unit on the other side of the wall. I'm trying to not have to rip everything out and save some money as I've been stuck with this condo for years now because of the housing issues here in Phoenix.
If you have any suggestions that would help that would be great.
I'm an electrician and I'm sure some suggestions I could handle it.
If I do have to cut that tub wall which is one of those tub enclosures that's all one piece, what could I use to cover the big hole and not replace the whole enclosure.
Thanks
Scott
Scott
Greg says: Remodel plates are used to cut out a large enough hole to work and cover the hole made in the enclosure. I cut out the tile or fiberglas and strap the valve into the studs. Send a picture of the shower valve you have.Thank you Greg, great web site!
My problem is with my toilet. I was able to use the toilet with a weak flush and usually I had to flush twice, but if I also used toilet paper it would clog. So I can use the toilet so long as I don't use toilet paper - go figure :-( I used the "closet auger" along with the vinegar you suggest on your video and so far so good.
Question: I used the 3' & 6' RidGid auger many times on the same day to get rid of the clog, but nothing ever came out - is that common? It seems to have helped even though nothing came out. And then I used the vinegar on two consecutive days and it seems to be working. But I'm confused about nothing coming out with the auger.
Can you please use my email for responding because I don't know where to look for my answer here.
Thanks
roger estrada
Greg says: Toilet bowls are just a basin having a P trap built into the china casting. The passage way is about 2" diameter, the passage way gets build up of water deposits and causes blockages, or waste to not slid on thru. The 3' auger cable is the length of the passage way in the bowl from water level to the outlet into the pipe at finished floor. The flush or siphon action sucking the waste from bowl to the outlet of the bowl is caused by the speed and force of water dropping down the back side of the bowl passage way. When all is not smooth and when the transfer of water to bowl from the tank is not perfect, this magic does not happen. An auger usually pushes thee soft blockage thru into the waste pipe in floor, so you do not see it. The passage way allowing the waste to leave the toilet is not visible, the passage way for water to get to the bowl from the tank is not visible either. The auger attempts to clear the waste way, and the vinegar should dissolve the mineral build up is the passage way from tank to bowl and to waste way. Some bowls are inferior design. Use a bucket of water poured into bowl to see if that causes a siphon, if so, the transfer is the limiting factor, if not, the bowl waste passage is the limiting factor.I'm designing a large residence that will encompass two complete living spaces with full kitchens, multiple bathes, multiple laundries,etc. My local water district offers hook-up of meters in 5/8", 3/4", and 1" services for $5000, $8500, and $10,000 respectively. Knowing the source will feed two homes, would make the most sense to buy the small service to feed a large capacity tank, and use a booster system to supply both "homes"? I'm no master plumber, but Iassume using larger capacity pumping from the supply tank and booster would give me better volume and pressures than paying extra for a1" service that would still very likely be inadequate.
Greg says: A 3/4" meter will easily flow 18 GPM, a shower is 2.5, the only reason to have larger than a 3/4" meter is either fire sprinklers or lawn sprinklers that are large. I have never known a 5/8" meter to be too small for fixtures only. The charges reflect capacity charge not the cost of the meter it's self. A meter is less than $100.I am trying to replace my kitchen sink faucet. All the videos and pictures I see online are not like my sink faucet. I need help. I can provide a picture of under my sink.
Greg says: Yes, please send a pix. but all faucets pretty much attach the same. There is threaded nuts screwed up to sink bottom holding the faucet on. A basin wrench or a faucet socket wrench is needed.Greg, i'm wanting to refurbish a older Delta Shower fixture like the one in your video "How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve" I'm having difficulty finding a replacement Dome Cap. My local supply houses and big box stores don't have any in stock and seem to have no idea what I'm talking about. Do you have a part number for the dome cap and sleeve for that shower fixture and a possible source of supply?
Greg says: Delta calls it an RP 50, the brass dome that screws onto valve body to hold in the ball and seal. Look at Delta parts online at factory site or another site having delta parts.Hello Greg,
I have a doublewide trailer my master bathroom has a drainage problem. Own this house since it was new. I replaced a section of pipe about 11 years ago the plastic drain pipe sagged. Now all these later a different section of pipe has a sag. I am sure this is the problem. I am considering ripping out the drain pipes putting in new ones. How do I get the proper pitch for drain pipes I am sure it was never set up properly since the house was new. Thanks for your help
John D.
Greg says: John,One can support the existing plastic drain pipes using sections of angel metal and aggressively zip tying to the rigid straight metal straightening out sags. I have used a hairdryer/heat gun and applied tension on sagging plastic pipes to the point of perfect pitch! Only if the drop that is needed is present between the sags. I used the metal on top side pulling up the sag. Even if half the distance is used with metal, this works.
Hi Greg, your website is a fantastic resource, thank you!
I have an apparently hard to diagnose slab leak. There's a wet patch slowly growing through a hairline crack in my garage slab, the garage being attached to the house.
I called my regular plumber out, he watched the leak detector on the water meter with everything turned off in the house, it did not move. Then he attached a pressure gauge to a hose bib and turned off the city valve. We watched for about 10 minutes and it remained a steady 100 psi on his gauge. He doesn't think that there would be a waste water line near the leakage but offered a static test to see if our sewage lines were leaking.
I called the professional leak detection service he recommended and they were generous with advice over the phone, though it would be $1200 for them to come out and find the leak, not including fixing it. They said it was unlikely to be a waste water leak because those "usually don't come up though the slab." They also seemed to think a groundwater problem would also be unlikely, though it's been very rainy here and we've recently covered over some of the area outside the house with stone and granite gravel.
So, I'm at a loss how to proceed. I ran the meter test myself for 8 hours, the spinner moved not at all and the sweep hand finally ticked off one gallon near the end of the 8 hour watch period. I put fluorescent dye down the drains and none showed up where the concrete is efflorescing. Now I plan to repeat his pressure gauge test on the hose bib but let it go for hours instead of a few minutes.
I'd love to hear your advice before I give the leak detection company thousands to use their listening devices, heat sensors, line cameras, ground penetrating radar, and jackhammers.
Thanks! :)
Terry D
Greg says: Terry,In San Diego a company called CPL will do leak detection for $225. Your being "worked" The moisture coming up can be ground water from natural source of water from a pipe leak no on your meter. Is the house in slab elevation on a sloped hillside where homes or soil are above your house slab? I consider some possibilities do exist you have a leak, but, slim chance. Keep in mind that water moves in soil and millions of gallons are lost everyday in street line leaks that go some where... I need more info. altho you have been more clear than most.
How much water is from crack in slab? is it constant, when did it start?
Greg,
I have a Nibco T-111 Gate valve with a drain that is used to turn on and shut off the whole house water. Can I repack the stem with the valve in the closed postion with water pressure still applied to the valve? The valve is installed before the water meter and after the curb stop. My curb stop is frozen and cannot be closed, otherwise I would just replace the valve with a newer ball valve shutoff. The house was built in 1987, so the valve should be from that time frame.
Can a person install a plastic line with a shutoff, where the drain cap is installed, so the house plumbing can be drained very easily, with the gate valve closed? This would make it easy to drain the plumbing if a person would want to do any plumbing work on any of the house copper piping.
I watched one of your videos on repairing a gate valve on a large water tank. Learned a lot from it, Thanks!
Greg says: The water district has a responsibility to provide a shut off at the meter, but, yes gland packing can be done with the water on, but it is not the best thing because the gate needs to be moved as maintenance, so do exersize it. Send picturesHi, I find all your videos very useful and I like watching them. On one of your video I have seen you installing Grundfos recirculating pump in domestic hot water system with THERMOSTAT and TIMER on it. I have looked over the Grundfos website but couldn't find the similar type of pump. The reason I am looking similar pump is; Recently we have installed a hot water system with a secondary return in 60m x 30m (Building size) welfare facility building in remote side of the country. Hot water is provided by 3 x 3kW 300 litres electric water heater enough to supply hot water to the facility. According to drawing, we have circulating pump connected with DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER and 2 x Temperature sensors in FLOW and RETURN pipes. As we have not found the correct type of DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER to suit our requirement, we have not installed circulating pump at this stage. After I have seen your video, I think the most cheapest way to circulate water in the system is by using similar type of pump with inbuilt THERMOSTAT and TIMER. Could you please help me to find the right pump similar to yours in the video. I am not a plumber and don't have plumbing knowledge and we don't have plumber with great knowledge. Your help on this matter would be much appreciated. By the way I live in UK.
Tanka
Greg says: What size pipe? I /we use 1/2" & 3/4" sizes here, but call it what you will you need a circulator able to move about 1 gpm. If you want a perfect design, contact Metlund, ACT Demand circulators. Here in Ca. They have all you could need. They use Grundfos pumps and add sensors and controls. They are world class and the best.Good (very early) Morning!
My family and I have lived in our current home for 17+ years and have been the only residents. We do have municipal water but have a septic tank for sewage. Our house is a one-story, we have two full bathrooms and the house sits upon a concrete-slab sitting on top of tons of Georgia Red Clay. (yippee)
There have been varying numbers of people living in the home, from as little as 2 to as many as 12. Thankfully, the 12 was for less than a year, several years ago. On average, there are 4 people in the home.
Before I explain the problem I'm writing about, let me say that we have had a couple of times where the septic tank has backed up (yuck), so I've seen what that's like. That's not the issue that keeps occurring.
In the past 10 years especially, we've had multiple instances where all of a sudden our bathroom floors will be flooded with cool, clean water. No suds, no grime, nothing... just whatever it picked up on the floor. However, we can never find where the water is coming from. My dad has been under the belief that it was the septic tank needing to be pumped but that has never seemed right to me because the water is clear and it's not coming out of the drains. Nor is it coming from the sink that's closest to the septic tank (which would be the kitchen sink).
However, each time he calls the septic tank guys out, and coincidentily, the tank is in need of being pumped. The reason I think that's a coincidence is because the only time the septic tank gets pumped is when this issue happens!
From the noises that I hear, the timing of the flooding I'm thinking more that its an issue with water pressure going too high. I believe that it causes a leak in a pipe that is in that common wall between the bathrooms and my office.
Presuming I'm right, I don't know how to convince my dad that it's at least worth checking out. Because to my knowledge, the only way to prove its a pressure issue would be to experience a pressure spike while having a large hole in the wall.
Is there a way to figure this out? It happens no more than twice a year, if that. Throughout the year, I'll hear the pipes making weird noises, sometimes these "glub-glub" noises, other times its this grinding, wrenching noise that is much louder and goes throughout the house... these noises I've never heard in any other home I've lived in. But usually, if you go run the water or flush the toilet a time or two, it goes away (as if it's relieving pressure).
Any suggestions or advice you could give would be greatly appreciated! This is getting to be a very annoying, not to mention costly issue that isn't getting fixed!
Thanks in advance for your time and any info you have!
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
McDonough, GA
Elizabeth
Greg says: Please see my reply I sent in e mail. use a lazy hand gauge to monitor pressure, see pressure regulator video.Bathroom sinks are back to back, water will not drain in either sink. I checked the P-traps their clean. When I take the P-traps off, the water will drain into a bucket. Between both sinks. When I put the p-traps back on, and turn on the water it starts to fill up again. I don't have a snake, I could rent one from Lowes. Can you help? What's the problem
Greg says: The drain line is blocked after the fixture tee in the wall, down in the drain line of the stack, This requires a snake cable thin enough to be directed into the trap arm coming out of wall and down the waste pipe instead of shooting straight across the double fixture tee and into the next bathroom. This is best done using a 1/4" snake cable having a drop head on it. larger cable is fine if you can direct it down instead of across the fitting.Once the water is clearing it is then necessary to run water down the drain to wash the line clear.
I am not suggesting you do this unless you are willing to work, get dirty and be subjected to bacteria etc. Professional plumbers are skilled at this and usually do a good job. If your pipes are cast iron you could have a real bad time doing this...
The hot water in both of my showers is ice cold. There is hot water coming out of all the sinks, but I have ran the shower water for at least 10 minutes and it won't get warm. I have a single handle delta facet in both showers. Please help....tired of cold showers.
Greg says: The Delta valves, how old are they? are they pressure balancing type? do they have a spool in them?I just replaced the flapper on my toilet and now it flushes three times with one swipe of the handle. What did I do wrong?
Greg says: It does not flush 3 times, it siphons 3 times, (sorry I am anal). The flapper has a timing of buoyancy that allows water to drop into bowl. This buoyancy is built into the design of the correct flapper! Use the right part. Lower the water level, cause the flapper to close at a sooner time.After contractor installed new faucets in bathroom sink when you first turn on the hot and cold water, the water is brown. We were away for a month and the water actually was black at first. Can you help? The contractor does not know what is wrond.
Greg says: I need more info. are you on well water? have galvanized piping? how old is the building? is the water main plastic? what is the pressure?how do I change the stems and seats on a 3 valve Danco Gerber tub shower faucet? Where do I watch your videos at?
CKW
Greg says: First of all, Danco is a spin off parts mfgr. from China, marginal quality parts. Gerber OEM parts are best. Gerber is a great mfgr. and send me a picture of the valve you want to repair and I will help you. Parts best gotten from Gerber or real Gerber, not "Fits Gerber" I need valve model and or exact desc. Age etc. What is it doing wrong and what is your static pressure.The pipes in our house start whistling several times during the day & night. One of the times is usually around 5am when no water appliance has been used for a while. If we flush a toilet or run the water in the sink & shower full blast, it stops. Could it be the fill valve even though the toilet hasn't been used for several hours? Any advice you provide is greatly appreciated, I'm tired of waking up an hour early just to flush the toilet so the noise will stop.
keith
Greg says: You have velocity/pressure issues. See my video on water pressure. Also know that pressure can be created within the bldg. by the water heater called thermal expansion. This is in addition to pressure regulators. You have a serious issue when pressure is a problem. This is a action needed item.Have installed new compression shut off valve under kitchen sink installation was per instructions.
When Main water supply is turned back on, Valve assembly blows right off copper pipe.
HELP!
Michelle
Greg says: The compression ring was installed? the copper was 1/2" ? the copper needs to be inside the valve body about an inch.Hello,
I have an underground PVC pipe for my sprinkler system that's broken at one section at 3 way joint. I believe I may need to replace the whole 3 way joint because there's a small section of broken off PVC inside the 3 way joint.
If my assumption is correct, what is the easiest way to reconnect the 3 pipes back into a new 3 way joint?
Thank you so much.
CW
Greg says: That 3 way joint is called a Tee, a tee is replaced by unions or couplings, keeping in mind that its location can not move therefore the couplings are needed to be on all 3 pipes. Slip fix fittings are good for this.I have replaced both valve stems on my tub shower enclosure, however when either is used,water streams out of the designated spot ie: tub or shower but water also streams out of the two valve stems, I have made sure it is tight, so I'm wondering if there is a bad valve seat in the wall, on both? and if I can replace from the shower side, or do I have to open the wall behind the shower? IE: the closet in the hallway.
scott
Greg says: What make valve stems? take a picture? are the stems ceramic sealing,(1/4 turn? ot multi turn having washers and bonnet nuts? and yes there are seats inside valve bodies that have stems. Cartridges usually have a different system then stems, that is the reason for name difference... are you describing your situation using correct terms?I haven't seen any advice on how to fix a tub faucet diverter. I have a Delta SBS that doesn't seem to be working very well anymore at getting the water up to the shower head when I pull up the knob. Any advise you have would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
Greg says: Pull the handle and plate off and unscrew the push-pull diverter and clean it up and put silicone grease on it and re install. Not the thin spray silicone, but the paste type found at pool supply. If the plastic paddle of the diverter is broken, replace it with new one from hardware store..I watched your video on how to fix a Moen Shower Knob and tried to figure out what my situation was. The handle move freely all the way around but doesn't catch to turn the water on. I unscrewed to know with Allen wrench, the black cap with grooves to sit inside the handle was there in which I unscrew with a Phillips and then the two white circles that set inside each other look fine. So the problem is the black cap and white circles do not move or budge when turned. They stay right in the T shape of the metal collar. So when I put the knob back on, it doesn't turn anything to have the water turn on. I don't know what's the next step. The cartridge was just replaced the week before and my son was taking a bath and I'm very positive he was messing with the handle but not sure if he was using excessive force? Could he have broken the whole thing? I cannot replace it due to lack of funds . Is there help for me? Thank you in advance!
Delia
Greg says: Delia,The Moen trim you refer to is a lever handle? Many different handles exist. The cartridge you have is turn only? not pull out and turn ? And no you have not broken the whole thing, just that plumbers are better at working on fixtures than you, and to be honest the assembly you describe is not an easy assembly to pull apart and re assemble. There is a steel collar that if not all the way pushed into the valve body it will scrape on underside of the handle. I suggest sending me a picture of the finished look, and a pix with the handle off, and another with the handle adapter off. I can then refer to different pix in telling you how to re assemble. You do not know the terminology and it would be easier.
Greg,
Thank you for posting the videos on youtube!
I just finished a repair project for a Delta single handle shower lever. Without your knowledge and helpful video, I would've had to hire a plumber!
Much appreciation to you for taking the time to make these videos!
Greg says: My goal is to help you save water and not prevent you from hiring a Plumber, if you can afford one or chose to just DIY. Also show what is needed to people who think it is easy. And prevent DIY'ers from twisting off the body of the valve. I see too often people cause more harm than good. As a Plumber I support my fellow tradesmen, yet at same time support my fellow americans in conserving water as well as these tight times can be tough, and some people let it drip. Having disclaimed all that I hope to be off assistance and not cheat my fellow Plumbers. and at same time help you, thanks for watching, tell a friend...Hi Greg,
I appreciate you taking the time to educate and help us DIY'ers. My issue deals with a 'freeze proof 14 turn ball-valve hose bib...in fact it deals with 5 of them. We had them installed on our home when we built in 2007. Now they all drip and don't close completely, There is no interior leaking they just don't turn off completely on the outside. The only fix we can see is to tear into the interior drywall ceiling to be able to access them for repair/replacement. Our exterior is brick. and we live in zone 5 with freezing temps every winter down to the 0's sometimes We even had some -10 to -15's this past winter.
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Andrea Urban
Greg says: They are serviceable, most likely woodford brand, the water to the house is turned off first and the long stem is unscrewed and new washer put in and Wa, La, your fixed.I had a plumber come over to my house because I have been hearing a humming-vibrating sound when I run water in my sinks and when the toilet finishes flushing. One of our toilets overflowed a few weeks ago and the water level rises up to the rim of the bowl every time we flush it.
The plumber checked the pressure in our backyard and it was 100 psi. He suggested replacing the water pressure valve on our main water line. We live in a townhome. I see only one valve to shut off the main water line. Do I need to look for another shut off valve somewhere else? Do I need to call the city I live in to shut off the line outside near the sidewalk?
He also suggested replacing the toilet or inner workings of the toilet. I am making progress on that project.
I really thought the plumber would have snaked the toilet to remove or loosen up anything that might have gotten snake but he did not mention that.
Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks
Cassandra
Greg says: The toilet overflowing is not related to water pressure, an auger should clear that, or the soft blockage could just dissolve on its own. The one main shut off the the house is where the regulator goes, just after the full port ball valve needed to shut off house water.Having a problem with not enough cold water in the shower. I live in Arizona and during our hot summers our cold water is basically warm, but my problem may lie with the shower valve. I have a delta shower valve that if you turn the knob counter-clockwise turns the shower on and the more you turn it the hotter it gets and obviously turning clockwise makes it colder and eventually off. My problem is that I get plenty of water pressure when the shower is running hot, but as I turn the knob clockwise the heat does go down but its still warm/hot and I am loosing pressure in the process. Eventually as I'm adjusting the shower will shut off, but It never gets cold or even cool enough to enjoy in the summer. Do you have any idea what is causing this or if I need to get a new valve? Thanks, Kevin
Kevin
Greg says: Do you have attic piping? The pressure balance cartridge is replaceable.Problem - no hot water in power shower (but plenty available)
I have a shower powered by a pump called a "superboost twin". The pump appears to work but no hot water makes it into the shower head (which has been cleaned) a couplee metres away any more. The weird thing is that the hot water outlet pipe from the pump to the shower seems to get much hotter (near the pump) than the inlet hot water pipe which draws from the adjacent hot water tank. Further, although the pump kicks in as soon as you turn the shower tap on when the thermostat is on a cold setting, if the thermostat on the shower starts at a mid or hot setting, the pump will not kick in and no water comes out at all. There seems very little pressure in the water (which is only cold) at these settings.
Do you think this is a thermostat issue or maybe a trapped air issue? If either case seems likely, what can I do?
Any advice most gratefully received!
Regards
Ian
Ian Magness
Greg says: Contact superboost, I am not familiar with it.I sprung a leak in my thermal expansion tank. I have a shut off valve on the line which I turned off(the tank was shooting water from the hole.) The leak stopped but after a while it started to drip from the hole and the cold water pipe from the hot water heater began to get warm.
The pilot light must of have gone out before I new the water was leaking. I shut to knob from on to off on the hot water heater. I thought it best to let any water dry before re-lighting the pilot.
Is the warm pipe normal? If I remove the thermal expansion tank to replace, will I have a lot of water to deal with?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time!
Robb
Robb
Greg says: The expansion tank is full of water and the hot water is from the water heater causing conduction of heat thru the pipes.We are renovating our bathroom. While taking the old tub out we discovered that due to a prior water leak the plumbers rerouted the copper water pipes around the perimeter of the house and fed them through the wall, through the steel tub braces to the faucet on the left side of the tub. We cut the copper pipes and used shark bites and PEX tubing to reroute the water along the wall of the tub surround. I'm hoping this is a sound fix as the research I've done says that this will work.
We purchased a new brass tub overflow and drain kit, however the tailpiece is smaller than the waste pipe in the foundation. Could you advise us as to how we should remedy this? Do we just fill the gap with plumbers putty? The pipe in the foundation is PVC. Are there washers or something to accommodate this difference? Is there really nothing that connects the drain tailpipe to this waste pipe? Do we Teflon all the threads on the waste tee? It just seems odd that the overflow and the drain pipes just slide in the waste tee with only the plastic washers keeping them in place, but I understand the reason is to accommodate the distances in the different bathtubs.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Kathleen
Kathleen
Greg says: Kathleen,The 11/2" tail piece from the waste and overflow is to vertically connect to a 1/12" trap adapter having a slip joint washer and nut. the 11/2" pipe below is IPS (Iron Pipe Size) normally 11/2" and the trap adapter on top is the reducer adapter to "tubular 11/2" size.... If access allows a mission coupling will meet code if it is for IPS to Tubular size (11/2" X 11/2").
5/19/2013, I have the same faucet in my shower that you show on the video and the dome will not unscrew after tapping a couple of times. Should I spray w-d40 on it or is there something else that will work or should I just keep working on it until it gives?
Thanks, John
John Messineo
Greg says: WD 40 has worked as have other solvents. Heat works too a hair dryer on the dome and not on the valve body.Now that I've installed an expansion tank with air to 60psi do i set my pressure regulator to 60psi with a faucet running water or not?
hector cunningham
Greg says: Adjust pressure while water is running but, when water is not running that pressure is what you set it at. Pressure will be about 10 psi lower while water is running. Easier to pump up air when water pressure is off and drained of pressure.I want to replace the handles only on my shower.Ê It is a Delta product and was put in when the house was built in 1983.Ê Of course they don't make this particular style any longer so I was wondering what my options are for new handles.
Thanks for your time.
Susie Q
Greg says: Send me pictures of your existing handles.I have water pressure to the house at 60psi when I turn on a faucet or flush a toilet it only drops 3to 5 less no problem but in the morning after using some water gauge still be at 60 or so but the red needle will be up at 130 or therabouts. I tested it tonight at 6pm and set it at 60 when i checked it at 7pm both needles were at 120 ithen turned on a faucet in the house and it immediately dropped to 60.what can it be?
hector cunningham
Greg says: Thermal expansion. Look at Watts Thermal expansion tank in google search...I have a single valve shower faucet that stopped working. When I turn it I hear a skipping sound as if teeth from a gear are missing. Now I took apart the faucet, but the base of the handle wont budge. I noticed the sleeve is free spinning so it should pull right out. The handled only has a cap covering the center screw, and the handle itself I unscrew as well as it makes contact with the first screw I removed. The backplate, faceplate came off with ease, but the ball of the handle will not come off. Theres no secondary screw checked and re-checked. The sleeve rotates without any friction so is not a screw-on piece
The product doesn't have its name like other companies would but I did noticed a 'N" in a circle as the only marking from a manufacturer. I hope there is a solution to this other then getting a plumber and take the whole unit out and replacing it. I have pictures if it helps. Thank you.
Ivan JB
Greg says: Take a picture and send it to me... greg@ramonasplumber.comI've viewed your video on leaking flappers. I've got a pr of 25 yr old Eljer Emblem toilets in my house - in use for all these years, with limited issues encountered. One of them's having flapper leak trouble. (It happens to be the toilet used less than the other - due to the location in the house). I've bought 2 flappers this week that I was told would be appropriate to use, and neither has fixed the problem. One of them was a blue colored one, (I was told it was made for the regional plumbing supply chain to work on Eljer toilets). The other was a red Korky, labeled "universal". There's no apparent issue with the ear's to Frankenstein hook issue you describe, and nothing going on with a chain with too much (or not enuf) chain slack that you talk about. The water leaks out of the bowl in 3-5 hours. I get the idea that Eljer "Emblem" model is getting hard to find parts for.
What should I do next. Thank You.
Mike
Greg says: The flush valve that contains the flapper is attached to the tank and can leak into the bowl. The replacement requires replacing the tank to bowl bolts and gaskets too. It is a standard flush valve but needs to be cut to not be too high for the overflow. the max hight is the hole in the tank wall to allow the flush handle to mount.Thanks for the video. It help me greatly. My son in law has a really old leaking delta shower faucet and after replacing the parts delta(rp70 multiple times) suggested it was still leaking(dripping almost running) out of the tube faucet. So I took a look at it. What I found was that the cold water seat for the spring and seal was a bit corroded and had build up of scale(I carefully cleaned the scale off). The normal rp70 seal couldn't seal against the ball properly because of the corrosion . I found a seal for a valley brand faucet that was the same size a the delta but has a longer neck that actually covers the delta spring almost completely and has 3 ring seals a round the seal itself. It takes a little work to get it in the hole. Your suggested grease really helped get it in. You have to be really careful putting the ball back in also(because the seal that rides on the ball stick out a little more than the delta, but it will push back into the hole. But the cool thing is that it took care of the problem completely. I also put a adjustment ring back in like you said there was(which delta said wasn't needed anymore). On the older models it is needed because you can't tighten down the half moon cap properly without the adjustment ring. Got all the parts at Menard's and Home depot. Thank you so much for the video. Saved replacing the hole faucet.
Stanb
Greg says: Is the ball a new stainless one? The ball is the other half of the seal. The plastic balls get pitted and scratched.You saved the day! We watched ur video and took our drain off with no problem! Kind of felt silly it was so simple! Found our clogged problem! Our young daughters bead necklace!! Who would have known!!!! Thanks a million!
Greg says: Wet Dry vac's really suck! kids, well only a mother knows how to love unconditionally. I instead of kids, love my work and love sharing as a mother does. I am glad my "Love" has done another good deed! We have gone national and it is like fame, and your thanks are what makes it worth it. Thanks for your comment.Greg
OXOXOXOX
Your video on how to fix water leaks on the Delta bathtub faucet was excellent!! I admire how you make it look so simple.
My challenge is a little different: I have taken my Delta faucet apart many times to try to resolve one problem. After replacing the guts of the faucet--the springs, rubber caps, round ball, etc., I still cannot get hot water to come out full force like the cold water does. As matter of fact, most recently, when I re-did the parts again and put it back together, when I turn the hot water on full force (all the way to the left), it just trickles out and even shuts the water off if I turn it far enough.
Just yesterday, I took a compressor and blew air through the hot water connection off the water heater and left the delta faucet undone so the air would come out through there. The air did come out and there was no blockage. Could there be a problem with the hot water hole on the seating part (where the ball goes in) or with the spring possibly not fully functioning. It has been a challenge for the last 3-4 years. It is an older Delta faucet that has been in the house for the past 17 years since the house was built. There is no gauge to re-set the temperature on the fixture.
Can you recommend a solution that I might try or should I just call a plumber? Challenge is that the tub is a plastic (?) tub/shower enclosure and we would have to replace the whole thing if we cut into it to replace the faucet components.
Thank you for your advice.
Jim
505-710-4774.
Jim Maes
Greg says: Jim,You are on the right track, is the vertical slot that the ball stem slides up and down in true vertical direction? does the valve have a slotted screwdriver stems in the center of a brass body the size of a nickel. If the hot side is partially turned off that is your problem. If no stops are built into the valve then a restriction could be in the pipe connecting to the valve on the hot side. Solder or something. Call me tomorrow and I will get some answers or reply here. 760-788-2889
Where can I buy the tool for removing slotted aerators? Pliers will not work for these particular type of anti-vandal aerators.I have tried my local plumbing suppliers with no luck.
Steve Bowen
Greg says: Different Mfgrs. use different keys, look at the mfgr. search parts.On your How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve video what was the model of the Delta shower valve you fixed
KC
Greg says: Check the Ohms on both elements 15 or 16 is good, Sometimes the hi limit gets out of cal. I normally change the stats and elements if the tank is over 6 yrs old. Ace Hardware sells Apco brand stats real good price.I watched your video on How to repair Delta Shower/Tub faucet. Very good. I am unable to remove the gaskets/springs as they are very, very old. Any advice?
Keep doing videos, they are very clear and easy to follow. thanks
MR
Question:
I've got a dual element water heater. The thermostat reset button keeps tripping. When I reset it and let hot water build, it becomes way too hot. An obvious sign of an element being grounded, in my opinion. Problem is, when I test for a ground with my meter...there is none. I get resistance when I test the elements for it and no sign of a grounded element. I have power to both upper and lower thermostats. Everything seems to be fine. I thought maybe the thermostat wasn't turning the element(s) off for some reason so I manually turned the temp up on the top thermostat, heard everything engage and start heating, turned it down, heard it turn off and did the same thing for the lower. Both worked fine. I'm at a complete loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jason
Jason
I installed a dishwasher filter from waterinc.com. The installation was very easy and simple. Better yet, the results have been great. Our municipality has very hard water, but now our crystal and glassware are spot free and cleaner than they ever have been. I usually don't post comments, but this has been a very positive experience so I wanted to share the results.
tim kidder
Greg says: Tim,Thanks for the comment, yes we found the dishwasher softener from water inc.to be very effective and easy to install. The video is real install not a rehearsed or redone one.
Dear Romana,
Thank you very much for sharing the info. I think if we all share what we know, the world has more meaning and all will reach their goal sooner or later.
DanTheMan
Greg says: For sure, lead by example and make the world a better place. I work at this daily, I will never stop.I watched your video on replacing a delta shower valve which was very informative. However I am having a problem removing the metal cap which holds everything in place. I have tried tapping it but still no go (I have also tried WD40 and Vinegar to no avail). I am afraid if I give it too much force I will break it and god only knows how much it will cost to have a plumber fix it. Any advice?
JW
Greg says: Use heat to loosen it.You're a genius. I am going to try and duplicate it with a site called DIY Cleaning advice. I might even hit your jar with a buck or two.
Ken raddon
Greg says: Go for it, thanks!Thank you for such informative videos!Ê I am trying to reduce water pressure at the main (currently showing PSI 90!).ÊÊI found the regulator and it looks just like what's in your video EXCEPT there is a black plastic "collar" between the locking nut and bolt.Ê I could barely loosen the locking nut and only got a half turn on the bolt, which didn't do much to the pressure.Ê Any of the regulators I have seen on line or in the hardware stores don't have the collar.Ê My question is, can I cut it off and make the adjustments as shown in your video?ÊÊ Thanks!Ê
Chris
Greg says: The black collar is a limiter so that the regulator pressure can not be turned up past 80 psi. (at the regulator outlet). is your point your testing the pressure much in elevation above the regulator location? like 10, 20 or 30 ft. higher? If so yes removing the restrictor will allow you to exceed 80, therefore ending up with more than that at the low elevation of the reg. Another possibility is your gauge is not correct?Hello, thanks for the info...would you use teflon tape or pipe dope on a new installation for a circulating pump with a 3/4" threaded flange. I recently installed with teflon and 3 out of 4 of the fittings have a drip once in a while. Thanks for help
Greg says: Yes, but those flanges are hard to get tight, 2&1/2 threads is all that should show that are not screwed in.I have low/no pressure. I use well water. I have replaced the water filter, checked/cleaned the contacts on the switch for the diaghram tank and tried toÊincrease/decreaseÊthe pressure but the low reading held firm. Any suggestions? I need to repair this asap, thanks JoeÊ
joseph slobodzian
Greg says: Check the power to pump? check the hose bib at the pressure tank check to see if a gate valve is stuck. Is the well drawn down? wells go dry every day...Take a picture of the system send it.I have low pressure in my house making my showers not greatest. What shower head do you recommend to make more pressure come out. Is something this good? http://www.oxygenics.com/Shower-Heads/Power-Series-Shower-Heads/PowerSpa-Fixed-Shower-Head.html
Or is this all hype and none of these products work. Thanks
JH
Hi Greg!
I used your site to figure out a few things with my plumbing, and really appreciate your service! I used your tutorial on unclogging an airgap for my dishwasher. I found a huge nasty chunk o' stuff in the very top of the airgap and removed it. Tried blowing with the paper towel tube, and didn't find any resistance. I was hoping my problem was fixed (original problem=dishwasher not draining)! I started my dishwasher and the water started overflowing through the airgap into the sink and also leaking under the sink. After hearing all that, would you have any advice on what might be going on with my dishwasher? I'd be happy to put a tip in that tip jar instead of calling out a plumber!!! :)
Thank you!
Julie
Julie
Greg says: Julie,The drain tube from the Air Gap to the disposal or drain pipe is needed to be curved but not kinked to reach beginning to end. The tube needs to be falling down hill all the way, no dips or sags. I have used a bottle brush 18" long to go from the top of the Air Gap with the "cap" removed. The brush goes into the larger area not the smaller round hole, down to the drain connection. Sometimes I need to disconnect the 7/8" tub from its connection having the clamp and I find junk there pushing the brush up to and out top of gap. The flow of water drainage needs a free open round inside of the tube since the waste water is not forced down this tube by the pump, but falls only by gravity. Any resistance allows the Air Gap to squirt out the top.... A wet dry shop vac. will suck out anything except a kink in hose. Running water into drain hole of sink while vac. hose on Air Gap top will help rinse out slime build up on inner tube wall.
1. is the black 7/8" tube going from gap body to drain kinked? 2. can you send me a pix from your cell ph. of the underside of the sink where the tube is and the top of the Air Gap with the cap off?
Greg,Ê thanks for the irrigation video showing the installation of the pressure regulator just downstream from the street valve.Ê I also try to use domestic plastic whenever possible as the import product is made of low grade resin.Ê In your future how-to's a list of the parts used would be very welcome.Ê BR, and best wishes - get some knee pads, watching your videos make my knees hurt!
ca. westberg
Greg says: I am with you on those knee pads, I now use them.We had our house built in 1982 by Wardcraft in Clay Center Ks and has
been a good home. The only problem we have had and several others have
had with their homes is the tub/shower in the master bathroom doesn't
put out good pressure at all. The
shower in the small bathroom works fine with lots of pressure and
volumn. From what I can tell, the copper pipes going up to both shower heads are
the same sizeÊ and we have the same head on it & have changed heads but it has never worked
right since the house was built new. Neither shower has a water saver either. It has a Delta tub/shower faucet like in your repair videos. Both my brothers have houses like this and both have the same low pressure showers in the main tub/shower in their houses too. Do you have any suggestions what I need to do?
Pat Ringler
Greg says: The Tub/shower valve is up stairs? if so the pressure will be 5 psi less. If the master bath is at the long end of pipe the friction loss thru the pipe will cause pressure loss. I have a solution. Pressure and flow are connected, yet different. I strongly recommend getting a High Efficiency Shower head using less volume thus retaining pressure. Several companies sell such heads. American Standard sells a couple as does Delta and Moen and Grohe, Niagara and others. The heads with only one or two spray options spray better than more options. Velocity of spray as low as 1/2 gallon per min. can strip skin off a body is the nozzle and pressure balance is correct. 2.5 GPM heads are not only poor performers, they waste water. The nozzle design is the trick. Niagara sells a head for $10 that will power wash your car! or your hair, if you have it. The newer heads will help. Your builder chose a Plumber that was the lowest bidder possibly... in turn the 1/2" pipe costing less than 3/4" was a choice, in which case the head is your best solution. Please keep me postedGreg,
Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.
What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flu
Rob
Greg,
Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.
What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flushed it again using the garden hose method.
While back flushing the pipe, the only visible substance that came out was a lot of dark rusty water. I'm guessing there was a lot of rust build up at either the faucet and shower pipe connection or inside the faucet itself. After all of that I re-lubricated the rubber seats and ball assembly and reassembled the faucet. To my great surprise the water flow to my shower head has returned to about 90%. I'm happy!
Thank you so much for your help and your great videos! I'll leave a tip.
Rob
Rob
Greg,
I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.
Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.
After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve
Rob
Greg says: Blow the debris out with a garden hose attached to the shower head arm using a hose thread X pipe thread adapter. Or compressed air.Greg,
I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.
Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.
After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve and water flowed freely (all over the place). It appears that the pipe from the faucet to the shower head is clogged. With the faucet disassembled I tried blowing on the shower pipe and I could not blow freely.
Is it possible that the pipe from my faucet to my shower head is clogged and that my tapping on the dome caused it to clog even more? Shouldn't I be able to blow air freely down the pipe that leads from the shower head to the disassembled faucet?
Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
Thanks for your help!
Rob
Rob
Greg says: Rob,Take a garden hose from before house shut off run into shower head arm with an adapter from hose thread to female pipe thread. This will blow back out the blockage.... assuming a blockage is the problem. Air will work almost as well.
Hi Greg...I have a client that has leaking shower valves..she sent me a picture of one of them. Single handle control...rotating handle, fixed not levered. She does not see a manufacturer name...ie Delta or Moen etc. I know this is a long shot..but hoping to identify the manufacturer and pick up parts before showing up for the repairs. Any sites that you know of where I can reference a catalog of pictures to possibly identify the brand and parts needed?
By the Way...I just found your videos on YouTube...great stuff!
Matt Russell
50 year old single floor ranch w crawl space, 2 issues:
1. when running water to tub, cannot get the shower head to stop water coming out, even though I have pulled the tub faucet stopper up to stop the shower. Any solution where I do not have to tear up the above tub tiled wall?
2. 4" Cast Iron drain pipe extends 18" outside my concrete block foundation, buried 1 foot down. Previous plumber busted a hole in the top of the cast iron pipe that extends outside the foundation, but buried 1 foot down. I bet they charged $200 to bust that stupid cleanout hole. PVC piping to the street sewer connection is attached at a PVC elbow to the cast iron drain pipe. How the heck can I get a sealed drain system? Roots have made a mess in the busted hole. The PVC can't be a sealed connection, I bet it's just slid onto the cast iron drain.
What should I use to connect and seal the PVC to the cast iron, or do I have to create some sort of cleanout? What connections to keep roots out?
blackxacto
Hi Greg,
I stumbled upon your youTube video while searching for DIY help with a shower spigot and knobs. Your videos are great and I watched several - thanks for providing such a helpful site.
My question involves the shower. We have a 30 year old Gerber three knob tub spigot that was leaking. I replaced all three with a 'universal' kit from a local home supply store. The hot/cold handles worked fine but the diverter knob did not send the water up to the shower head. I went to the local plumbing store after scratching my head and they suggested I use Gerber brand parts (as you recommend as well) due to small size changes etc. used in universal parts. So I bought the Gerber diverter and yes, it worked to send the water up to the head. However, the water pressure dropped approximately by half or 2/3 so much so that we couldn't take a shower. So I went back to the plumbing store and they suggested I also replace the two hot/cold handles with Gerber brand. I did that, and although it seems a bit better, it still is not back to the original pressure - even before the leaks! No one seems to have any other ideas for me. We're contemplating calling a plumber, but wonder if it is just something simple we're overlooking? Sure would appreciate any help. :-)Ê Thank you for your thoughts.
Kathy
Kathy
Greg says: Kathy,A couple things, one, a pice of debris could be in line to head, is spout as slow as head? if not pull head measure volume from shower arm w/o head on it compared to spout. Second possibility, If the stems are screwed in to valve body too far by not having the thick washers on stem threads, the stem when opened all the way is not as far open as it was before, or as far as they can. Same goes for the diverter, the position of the stem in relation to the passages in valve body can be a flow volume issue. Another is if the valve body has shut off stops on the inlets to valve, they can be partially closed as well as if a screen exists in valve body to protect the valve, this screen could be dirty. Check the pressure to your house as well this could have had debris move around in the repair process and that debris could be in a screen in a pressure regulator if you have one. Do you have a pressure regulator? do you know your pressure? have you removed your shower head? Did you change the seats when you replaced your stems? are the stem washers thicker than original ones?...
The air gap for my dishwasher leaks water out of it. (new problem just started today) I checked the hose and it is clear.Ê I even removed it and can blow air threw it.Ê I checked where the hose connects to the drain and it is clear.Ê The water comes from the dishwasher to the air gap but some comes out and some goes down the hose and down the drain.Ê Any idea what could be wrong? Ê Ê
mark
Greg says: Is there a kink in the larger hose? is there a sag in the hose from the gap to the drain pipe. Does the chrome cap lift off and you can see the plastic gap body and the top of it is round? or is it got two flat sides?Greg. Thanks a lot for the videos. They are extremely helpful.
IÊhave a watts premier under-the-sink filter system. The problem is that water comes out from a hole at the back of the faucet. I've tried to clean up the hose, cut the hose shorter so that there is a slope from the faucet to the tank. but nothing works. What could be the problem and how can i fix it?
Thanks and take care.
Michael
Greg says: Hole in what faucet ?, the kitchen faucet of a faucet for a RO water treatment system using an air gap in spigot that is leaking? Picture?Hi Greg,
I came across your youtube channelÊwhile trying to figure out a plumbing issue. We have owned our first home for two years. Just recently we have had a problem with the bathtub making a noise when the toliet flushes. At leastÊit wasnt every flush but now it seems more frequent. This has been going on for about a week.ÊIt does not seem like any fluid is backing up into the tub, just the noise. I have been reading a lot of articles on the internet such as bubbles mean clog and gurgle means vent pipe. I do not know the difference. It just sound like the toliet flushing in my tub drain. We are so new to homeownership that we do not know where to start. Please Help!! Thank you.
SY
Greg says: Drain waste and vent is the name of our waste pipe system, I need a lot more info. we could talk on phone. 760-788-2889.Generally speaking I would say you need your building drain snaked. Not the tub, but the main. vent trouble could do this, but my bet is drain. Partial blockage causes water to back up causing your lowest fixture (the tub) to have water flowing back into it from down stream.
I am planning on letting my little brother move into the trailer that is in my backyard. I need to figure out how to send waste from the trailer to my septic tank. How would I need to get started with this task?
I would also need to figure out how to get water to the trailer.
Thanks for your help Greg.
Peterson
Greg says: Peterson,After I relive myself of Code preaching and support (and I do support Code), I will give you a functional direction. Then I hope to remind you Code and safety are paramount to Plumbers and People. First off the point of waste for the building is needed to be known. Is the place on Sewer or a Septic System. the house should have a clean out on front and back of the house. Possible one side. The trailer needs to be practically located so this is a gravity fall from trailer outlet to the existing outlet. If this is not the case a sewer ejector is an option. Sewer ejectors are like a trash can buried in ground having an ejector pump at the bottom. This would be buried at trailer and the discharge of the ejector pump be piped in ground up hill or flat to reach the point of connection to existing building sewer. This pipe would be 2" diameter Drain Waste and Vent Pipe. If you call me or send me pictures I will assist you further.
The fresh water supply is fairly easy, pressure hose sold at RV supply stores for this connection. Screw hose to a hose bib, run hose to trailer, and screw into the trailer hose inlet that will be female hose thread ready and waiting. RV water piping is usually in need of lower pressures this is done with a regulator from the RV store bought with the hose. Not to different from how electricity is done but the RV store will have what is needed.
Heating is often done with LPG, please use caution there.
Hi Greg,
I have viewed your videos and viewed your website about water pressures but my problem is odd. If I put a gauge on a faucet, my static pressure is about 60 psi. WhenÊI turn on an additional faucet, the pressure drops to about 30 and fluctuates back and forth between 30 and 60 every second. IÊhave to remove my water heater to get to my regulator to replace it, so I would really like to pin point the problem. My house is anout 12 yrs. old. ÊAny help would be greatly appreciated.
Allan Hoover
Greg says: Your regulator does not belong behind the water heater, move something around. What is street pressure, do you have a fire sprinkler system? We need to talk maybe. 760 788-28898Thanks for the help Greg.Ê Regards, Joe
Joseph Lombardo
Greg says: My pleasure.My water heater has been leaking outside the house from the overflow tube that sticks out next to our AC units and the pilot light keeps going out.Ê Is this something that sounds like it can be fixed, or do I need to go out and buy a new water heater?
Ê
DOL
Greg says: Deyla, if you replaced the tank the same symptoms would still exist. You have high pressure problems and that is blowing the extra preuuure out the discharge. Tank is also leaking inside so it is bad as well, you could call me and I can explain to you. I will sell you nothing because my collar bone is broken and I can not work. You need a pressure regulator, and expansion tank and a new water heater . (less than $1500) more than $1000.HI Greg,
I put a pur faucet filter on my kitchen faucet. I have to take out the regular aerator and putthe connector in order to put the filtr set. My problem is now i want to put my regular aerator back and i have trouble take the connecor out it seems to be stuck on the faucet. Is there way to make it lose without hurting the faucet?
Any help would be very appreicated.
Thanks
Zoe
zoe
Thank you for your excellent videos.Ê They are very informative and useful for us DIYers.Ê I followed your instructions yesterday in changing out the valve in my Moen shower.Ê Today I plan to purchase a closet auger for future use at home and my rentals.Ê I wish I would have watched your closet auger video yesterday before I hired a rotorooter company to unclog a slow draining toilet at one of my rentals!Ê Just paper, not a five pound root like you found in another of your videos.Ê My other question is regarding the Laing Under Sink Recirculation pump for hot water.Ê Which model did you use?Ê I want to make sure I buy the right one.Ê I'm tired of wasting 5 to 6 gallons of water before it finally gets hot.Ê Thank you again for all your terrific, easy-to-follow videos.Ê Keep us the great job!
Helen
Greg says: Helen,I used a Laing because I had one in stock, I recommend using a Demand ACT Metlund unit. Go online to find best price. Use the correct one for your application. If you have power available at far fixture and no recirc pipe (third pipe) just select that model from the description provided at the purchase point. All different products are made with options like what size pipe, etc.
Greg
Your video just guided me through replacing a Moen shower valve. I cannot thank you enough! This will certainly impress the husband!
Jennifer S
Greg says: Jennifer,Men do not ask of follow directions well, you are wonderful, thanks. Virtual Plumbing is the new way, welcome to my dream. Tell other ladies where they can get this good info. and my Google Ads will get clicked on so they pay me and you do not have to.
OXOXOXOX
Hi Greg:
Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.
Thanks in advance for your kind help!
dianchi2000
Greg says: Just use the description old style Delta Shower valve. The OEM kits with the stainless steel ball, springs, and rubber cups, bonnet and a bit of silicone grease. The springs needed are the conical ones . and the short rubber cups not the deeper ones that use the longer springs.Hi Greg:
Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.
Thanks in advance for your kind help!
dianchi2000
Greg says: The one in the video is "The old series from the 60's thru 80's Ball style. use the Stainless Steel Ball and only OEM Parts.Too many model #'s existed that used the "Only" Delta ball kit for a shower, the other was for a Kitchen sink.
Thanks for your hose bib replacement video! It was clear and provided enough information for me and my boyfriend to swap out our old leaking one :) Yay DIY! Clicked on a bunch of your ads too btw!
Leanne
Greg says: You are way cool, I am glad we were able to be clear on the task, so many videos are vague and leave stuff out.Thanks for watching, tell your friends on Face book.... everyone needs Plumbing...
Greg
Draining small swamp in front of house - with photo
Hi there!
I'm looking for a DIY solution to eliminate this swamp that forms on the footpath outside our house up to a week after rain.
Here is a diagram photo of the situation...
https://skitch.com/mhoward/egagg/iphoto
An existing pipeline runs under a tree and has probably been crushed by the roots.
If I run a new pipe around the tree it may not fix the swampy area to the side. Is their a DIY solution that will drain that swamp as well?
I am a novice with regard to drainage solutions, but I am keen to fix it if their is a good solution.
Thanks for your consideration.
- Martin
martin
Hi Greg, your video on how to replace the posi-temp cart was great. I have 2 showers in my home that are not used that much since they are spare rooms. I went to home depot and they sold me the Danco replacemnet part, well after the install now the shower heads drop all the time and also I foudn out that home depot has discontinued selling that part so I called Moen and they are sending me 2 free cartridges at no cost so I hope it was just bad parts. A local plumber told me if the cart dont work you need a new valve and that is more then i expected to do and spend. Also the house was built in 2004 and I noticed that behind the shower handle plate there is a water shut off screw for the hot and cold so I guess I can shut the water off there instead of the whole house. What would cause a new cartridge to make it drip. I assume the part is bad or the valve has debris and water is slowly going pass the cartridge???? Any suggestions?
Jamie Allison
Greg says: OEM Cartridge is needed. What is your water pressure? If over 80 psi you need a pressure regulator.i viewed the air gap video for dishwashers and in 7 minutes I learned how to fix the draining of my dishwasher into my sink. Thanks for the detailed video that was easy to understand for a novice like me. I fixed it. Yippee!!!
CCC
Greg says: Knowledge is simple if known. Thanks for watchingMy husband and I are considering the purchase of a home that has recently had some of it's copper pipes replaced. The home does not yet have an acid filtration system. Of concern to us is that the part of the well that protrudes out of the ground with the cap on it is corroding. It has five holes in it to allow water to leave the well as it has an overabundance of water supply and needs to be released from the well. There is pressurized water releasing from these holes and the metal around them is rusty and corroded looking. This is a wonderful that we would love to purchase but we are concerned about the well and water content. The owner admits to high acid in the water and the need for a filtration system. The realtor has said that the water releasing from the well is not an issue as it is just caused by the excess of water supply. Any thoughts? What kind of expense is involved with fixing that corroded area at the top of the well pipe coming out of the ground. Thank you for any information you can offer.
Lori Sutton
Greg says: The well cap is made of Iron and is normal to rust. Plastic well heads might be available but they would not be as strong and sun can degrade the plastic. A well man is your person on this. Acidic water is treated by a neutralizer that can be installed at the well equipment location or at house. If you like take a picture and send it to me. Quality water treatment systems are not easy to get installed, most installs are down right stupid. I recommend a shed around this equipment. Water coming out of well heads is common in locations and only needs dealing with correctly. Local well guy again is your best bet, if you can find one who gives a dam, and is educated. Too often the education ends at just enough to get the license, and write an invoice.I noticed in the video when you replace the Moen 1222B cartridge that you make no mention of using the silicone grease. Do you suggest not using the grease? Thanks for the great tutorial. I'll wait to hear about the silicone grease before I begin the project.
Rick Bonneau
Greg says: The cartridge comes with some on it. Yes I love silicone grease I have used it for decades. Grease it up and stick it in..Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
http://www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/noritz-vs-rinnai.html
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Both are very good units. Installation and how it fits the building is far more important than anything else compared here. Just the distance and pipe size alone will by far out weigh the differences. How often used vs a tank type is another major difference. Issues of cost are totally different than reliability or temperature controllability. Once you have a tank full of 120 deg. water it is hard to go to 140 deg. at a seconds notice. Tankless offer that. Remote controls offer that. Tankless units cost a lot more money to buy and if vent is used 10 times more for venting. Tank Types are not wall mount and outdoor approved Tankless are. Noritz and Rianni offer very close performance compared to Tank type, but the above is to cite some of the dynamic aspects of hot water. Location and the other issues is not important in a static comparison I point out true dynamics of a building. Not to mention user behavior ! I wont even go there.Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?
http://www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/noritz-vs-rinnai.html
Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.
Larry
Larry Voss
Greg says: Larry, you are the most generous tipper this yr.! thank you. Tankless water heaters are sometimes thankless. They need proper building lay out to be most applicable. The Rinnai is a very great unit and both those brands are changing design and models several times a yr. I just got an up grade class offered to me today. Either Mfgr. is great if the application is correct. too many retro fit applications are not good for Tankless. This is why Rinnai just merged with a Tank Type Mfgr. to have an option. Tankless need yearly maintenance and different vent system and larger Gas Pipe to supply gas to a more than ten fold demand on gas load. The endless supply of hot water can be done with Hybrid or regular tank types. AO Smith makes a great hybrid called Vertex Ed Baggley the actor is the spokes person for them and if you like him you might give him an ear. Tankless have an advantage in that they can be outdoor mounted on the garage wall and need no venting in such case you are closer to being pre disposed to a Tankless application. All you would need is a gas line to the unit that is big enough. Is the Gas service near that location? if so good choice. either brand. At this point I am more impressed with Rinnai They have a fully modulating gas valve and will warranty if a circ. pump is used as long as the circ. pump is demand actuated and not on a timer setting only. Andy Bellow is a Tankless only installer and goes by the name Tankless water heaters or something like that, just use his name with tankless and you will get the right guy. get quote from both Black Mountain and Andy Bello ? I have Solar Thermal , its free power.Web site and videos areÊexcellent! I couldn't find a topic similar to my problem. I have a well and have had acidic water levels for ..... years. A great plumber I knew warned me about deterioration of my copper pipes over the years but due to $$ or ignorance, I put it off. Well........ I have had a few pinhole leaks and have been replacing my copper pipes little by little with most leaks being after the water heater. I have replaced most of my 3/4" piping with pvc and was wondering if there is any benefit to replacing the rest of my plumbing/house all with 3/4" pvc pipe?Ê
Steve Moore
Greg says: Where do you live? CPVC is needed for Hot water, PVC for cold. Careful to stop back flow into cold from hot side. PEX is also a good choice. How it is installed is more important than the pipe. You could always call me.. 760 788-2889Help! After watching your extremely helpful video on using a closet auger, we bought one to use on our toilet, which is prone to flushing issues.
I find it EXTREMELY difficult getting the auger cable around the sharp curve in the toilet. I think I've gotten it around the curve three times out of 75 tries on the first two clogs I cleared. Now the toilet is backed up again, and I'm not any closer to getting the hang of the closet auger. I turn the handle as I press the rod down. It hits that sharp curve and stops going down. As I continue to turn the handle, it just puts coiling tension on the cable so it snaps back when I stop turning. I haven't had enough successes to figure out what I've done differently the few times the auger HAS made it around the curve. HELP?!?!
(FYI, pre-closer auger we used to plunge away most of our toilet problems, then sometimes that wouldn't work and we'd call out the plumber to get that brown water down... At that point, the toilet would work great for a while, then it would happen again. It also frequently goes into a mode where it hesitates, but then everything successfully goes down. We don't use excessive amounts of TP. We don't flush anything other than body waste and TP. The toilet has long standing issues since before we moved in.)
Suggestions? Please? Pretty Please?
Alexandra
Greg says: You might need a new toilet. ones exist that actually work! You might have an object trapped in the passageway. What is the date inside the tank on the wall? If it is a toilet from the 90's it is most likely bad. (they are low flow and or ultra low flow) the new ones are HET or Hi efficiency design and some of these work exceedingly well! as in do not block up at all! If you pull your bowl up from the floor and find the object and can get it out and want to keep what you have , you can re install. If you cannot find ro get out your problem, replace it with one that I recommend. Most Toto Toilets are great, the Drake unit is fantastic and cheap too. Niagra makes one even cheaper but it is not as pretty for the Girls. Most units having a 3" flapper flush valve are best. some 3" units are a good flush but impossible to repair when needed. (no flapper).My question involves several parts of our plumbing.
1) Our home came with the water heater in the attic 5 years ago. There isn't room for one in our 1 level home.
2) The overflow for our AC and the drain pan for the HW heater go into the vanity sink in the bathroom.
3) The combined drain for the vanity and the toilet next to it are obviously connected since I discovered that the level in the toilet is determined by the level of the trap in the vanity. We seem to have a constant problem with mold in the toilet, even though we clean it once a week.
The question is - Do these seem like problems to you, or is it just me?
Greg says: Code does not allow the Pressure Relief line of a Water Heater to be run into the pan. The Pan can run to the lav. as can the condensate line from the AC. The AC needs a secondary line in addition to primary at lav. trap inlet.The Building Drain has a blockage if the Lav water can be seen affecting the Toilet. Water Heaters in Attics Suck.
The mold issue I have seen before, the only thing to do is replace the toilet once that black mold gets there. I have tried to use acid and everything else.
thanks so much for the step be step instructions they made all the difference. you saved me almost a hundred dollars and thats a lot to me. thanks again really usefull stuff.
kevin
Greg says: Plumbers are better than Lawyers. We really care. we actually talk in a language anyone can understand. That is my intention, I am glad to help.You have got to be kidding with the production of this video. THE MUSIC COMPLETELY OBSCURES THE NARRATIVE! I am a producer, and this is beyond amateurish. I just wanted to know which way to turn the aerator to get it off. Fortunately, I could see to turn it to the right from the visual, which was the opposite of what I was doing. Could I possibly be the only one who has ever pointed this out?
Greg says: Thanks for your feedback. Our testing indicated that the narration was easily heard. However, we will definitely take your feedback into consideration on future videos to be sure the narration is not obscuring the narration.very nice blog that provides new thing for me .Your blog provided us beneficial information to work on.
San Jose Plumbing
Greg says: Did you actually read the Blogs? I am a bit repetitive in my theme, but still from my perspective I feel the points are needed to be made. The varying angles I write from are possibly an attempt to "touch a nerve" with a wide range of people and mind sets.Greg
i have recently moved to the bush where we have a instant gas hot water service, an old vulcan. it is working but the temperature is a bit up and down. the buttons and knobs dont have any symbols on them as time has eroded them. i was wondering how i can find out what they are and what the slide control is.
please i need advice. can send photo if it helps.
thank you
mel
mel cleine
Greg says: MelOne knob will be for on, off, pilot. other will be a temperature adj. Google search and fing users manual. the steel Name Plate on it will have correct search info. I am not familiar with Vulcan units.
Greg,
I've just moved into a 2003 condo, the bathtub/shower has a Moen mixer, but it comes out hot first and then cold. After watching your video I removed the handle, adapter, and limiter so that I could see the cartridge. The H-C is at the top,Êso IÊtried rotating the shaft 180, but that leaves the water running, until I get right around - 360. What did I miss?
Merry Christmas,
Bob
Ê
Ê
Bob
Greg says: Bob,OEM cartridge is important, Moen in on the body of the Cart?, Also the pipes could be reversed in wall causing you to put H&C on the bottom and se set the cart. If you run the valve till hot then feel the pipes inside the wall, you will see if the hot is on left or not!
Greg
Greg:
I really appreciate your website and tutorial on replacing the Moen Posi-Temp cartridge.Ê It would be great it you added or touched on possible complications or common things that may go wrong.Ê However, your videos and online tutorials were extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to tackle this project.
Thanks again.
Travis
Greg says: When anyone, a Plumber or Homeowner turns off Water Main to a building, things change. While the Water is off, the pipe drains, only to refill when Water is turned back on. Water quickly filling a pipe disturbs debris and Biofilm, this turbulence and debris is a common cause of trouble. How old is the Pressure Regulator? What is street side of the Regulator pressure? Do you have a Thermal Expansion Tank? What is the after side of the regulator? as low as 45 to 55 psi is good, as hi as 65 to 75 is max. First thing need is facts, next, decision, then fix, if needed.Great idea, we could do a second video for every video listing "The rest of the story" We try to keep videos short for those who have no desire to start a new career in Plumbing, and get lucky with the minimum difficulty in the task.
Greg,
I have spent hours on your website and I found the information you produce is great. Lots of people produce plumbing tips, your site is a little different. If you would like to do a guest blog post or videos on our plumbing marketing site, http://www.growplumbing.com , we would love to have you.
Gregg Towsley
http://www.GrowPlumbing.com
310-546-1980
Gregg
Hi Greg, My water pressure increase after new water heater replaced, special in the shower faucet, the water flow is too strong, I am scare with that strong flow, I like lower water flow better when I taking shower... I don't know what to do to fix the problem myself, should I need a water pressure regulator to fix the water pressure ?
But, why this plumber created the problem and can't fix the problem .
Please advice
Thanks Christine
Christine Li
OH NO! Something went wrong...
Loved Love Love the How to repair a delta tub/shower valve video. everything went great and everything is on BUT BUT BUT there is now a leak at the faucet. what did i miss?
Please help! I dont know if its ok to shower with it leaking at the valve.
Tiffany
Greg says: Do you mean the same faucet is dripping? did you tighten the dome nut tight enough? do you mean the spout is dripping? I need more info.Instsalled new faucet after kithchen remodel.Ê Over time we have lost a great amount of the original pressure.Ê Do you have any suggestions for me?
Wallace
Greg says: Question, did you use the stops to shut off water before changing? or did you shut off the whole house? The stop could have crumbled up and plugged the inlet to the faucet. The other is the scren on the faucet spout, have you cleaned it?. What kink of Kit faucet is it? the made in China home ctr. faucets with American names are not the best, they can have plastic lining inside that de laminates and plugs up the inside of faucet. The plastic lining is to comply with the cheap brass having lead in it from leaching out. There is a law against that now. If you have a pull out head, it is in the vacuum breaker that the blockage could be.You mention in one of your videos that a static water pressure of 80 psi is ok and anything more would need a pressure regulator. You don't mention the fact that water pressure tends to increase late at night though. I have that situation, my water pressure is 80 but it will hit 100 in the night, when no one is using it. If I have copper pipes, would I need to install a pressure regulator? Or would install it increase the life of my pipes at all? Thanks for the help and I love your videos!
Pedro
Greg says: Very important, issue, yes you need a pressure regulator and a thermal expansion tank.Well about two months ago my youngest son got one of those "bouncy" balls stuck in our bathroom drain and we used one of those plumber tools that you pump up to build air in the chamber and then pull the trigger to blow the air pressure down the drain and I believe it worked because it began draining again.... Well last night my oldest son got sick with a stomach virus and the closest place he could get to to throw up was the same tub. I tried using the same device with that and it didnt work i also tried using a snake and was unsuccessful as well as a plunger..... also now when we used the sink in the same bathroom the water will back up into the tub! I am willing to try ANYTHING to get this solved without having to call a plumber, please any advise you have please tell me!
PLEASE HELP!!!
B.G.
Greg, you have a great webiste. Thanks for much for the information as I am learning a lot from you. I do have a question. I have a basement and the toilet down there is stopping up and I am also having some water back up into the tub. From what I have learned from your videos it sounds like I may have a main drain blockage. Is renting a rooter tool from home depot a good way to clear this? The clean out is right outside of the basement door so it should be a fairly short and straight shot to the toilet. Also, I out some Rid-Ex in a toilet and flushed it per the instructions. Dont know if it is coincidental but I have had 3 toilets stop up since doing it. Do you recommend using Rid-Ex?
Thanks, Tommy
Tommy B
Hello Greg,
I recently bought a house and in one shower I have a Mix-It valve. I hardly get any water pressure in the tub and I can barely get any cold water. It's either warm or very hot water that comes out. I replaced the Mix-It vale thinking it was bad and it didn't fix the problem. I also have two other plumbing questions, but I'll save those for later! Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Frank Larreta
Greg says: Frank,To be frank, you need to change out the Mix-it Valve, Mixits are not good valves. When getting a new valve get one with "Check stops" Wolverine Brass makes a great Balance Valve having check stops and that can come with a large Escutcheon flange face plate to cover the large hole needed to be put in Shower Wall when installing a new valve. Moen also makes a repair Trim Plate too.
Hello Greg,
Yesterday I replaced the rubber cups that are on my delta shower and today I saw your video http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml. My problem is with the water temperature, once I send the water from the tub spout to the shower head it becomes difficult to control. If the temp is good on the tub spout the temp will radically change to scolding hot on the shower head and then I need to very-very-very slowly move the handle or I will either get cold or hot. It's quite a dance trying to shower! :)
So I was told by a handy man that the rubber cups probably needed changing, so I went to home depot and bought the delta labeled replacement. The only difference is that the springs on the hd are a tad bit longer and not 'cone' shaped like the original ones. They fit fine and I put everything back together. Now the shower handle moves much smoother (it doesnt fall down to the off position) but I still have temperature problems.
The condo I live in was built in the late 60's and I assume this delta shower doesnt have the scolding feature that I've read about and that's why I might be confusing the water temp issue as a 'problem' and maybe that's just how showers used to work in the past?!?!?!?
What can by the source of my problem?
Thanks again and great video.
Ceez
Greg says: CeezYou have a mixing of water from a fixture or a re-circ line that does not have a working check valve. Thanks for the Pictures you sent me, they confirm it is a Delta. Try shutting of the closest single handle faucet supply tubes to identify which fixture is allowing cold into hot side thru the single handle faucet. I also suspect the re circ line if you have one. The valve you have does not have anti scald feature.
So glad I found this site; a life saver! Plus you saved me from tearing the copper tubes in my shower out of the wall!!
CJ Kern
Greg says: Glad to help! a tip jar exists on my site,tips allow us to make a little to offset web expenses! PayPal is safe and cheap!OMG!!! GREG!! I am so happy to find this site. I'm a single Mom, professional working woman who has no time to entertain plumbers all hours of the day! LOL! Sooo... when I had the first toilet clog I bought that cheapo toilet auger, it sat for weeks in the bathroom and then I finally got the nerve to use it. This is what happens when you have 3 toilets in the house. Then, the second one clogged. Well, out of desperation and fear for the one lone toilet that was still operational, I had to bite the bullet and try the auger. Waited till darling daughter was fast asleep, because I did not need "that" kind of helper. Guess what? It worked.... VOILAAAAA!!! And that was BEFORE I found your toilet auger procedure video on YouTube! So then I got to watching, and thinking, and learning a lot more than I ever wanted to know about my three wimpy-flusher toilets. Not quite sure if I have the right know-how, but I am going to make a point of exploring the innards of said toilets and see if I can't remedy this problem. I don't mind the auger, but hey, these toilets ALL could flush better!! Next -- the garbage disposal section. Yep, I'm on a roll!! Just tonight, you have saved me a lot of worry and I have saved myself a huge bill from the plumber who WAS supposed to come tomorrow!! Signed, SuperMommy :)
Jen
Well we were just minutes away from calling a plumber because we could not figure out why our dishwasher was not draining when my husband came across your site and watched your video on cleaning the air gap. My husband being the brains and me the brawn:) I took it apart just as you directed and found a clump of sunflower seeds stuck in the top. Thanks to you we are up and running again in less then 2 minutes. Thank you so much. You totally rock!!!
With great appreciation,
The Brains and Brawn Family:)
Susan Molina
Hired a big known plumbing company clear a drain. The shower in 2nd floor bathroom backed up and black goop came up the drain of the tub in the bathroom on the other side of the shared wall. The plumber tried to rod for about 45 minutes (after a flat rate of $594!!!!) and couldnt then said he had to take a look at the plumbing under the tub, which (unexpected by me) cost another $415 to do. Billing practices are questionable because after viewing with flashlight said he would have to rod through the expose plumbing and would update with up to date plumbing where they opened the piping...at another $1525 amount to be done another day. A friend said it sounded unreasonable and so referred to their plumber. He came in and through a linen closet in bathroom appeared to drill a hole...seems like the vent line and rodded then closed the hole with electrical tape. I didnt realize this was not acceptable practice until I started checking into it...but it did unclog the drain and clost $155...so less then the other company. In any event...seems I dealt witha theif and then a jury rigger(who by the way is a+ rated with bbb and angies list)....what is the safest best way to take care of that hole....should I call the 2nd plumber back to ask him about the safety of it?
lesann
Greg says: Well a "Flat Rate " usually means it is done complete and warrantied. So you did not pay right?, same on the other price.Cutting thru a wall and drilling the vent to clear a drain is a smart method. He should have just put a tee in the vent and called it a clean out install and clearing...
Sewer gas is an issue with tape so either put in a clean out or use approved rubber and clamps that do not meet code. Is the hole in the vent above the flood rim of the tub? if so water damage is not an issue. $550 sounds like a fair price for the whole job done right with an access panel to the clean out.
I bought a condo about 9 months ago. The building my condo is in, is a factory that was built in 1900 and converted to condo's in the 80s, everything here is a little lumpy-bumpy and very outdated but workable. So I was putting off upgrading my bathroom, until i noticed one day a few weeks ago that the sides of my bathroom vanity were waterlogged and had begun to swell up and was pretty moldy inside.
Since I'm a new homeowner and on a budget, I decided to replace the vanity cabinet (which included a sink, bought tools to do the removal / installation, and then I splurged on a nice price-phister faucet. When I tore out the vanity, I quickly realized I was into this for a lot more than just a cabinet a few tools. The linoleum was rotten and moldy beneath it, and the drywall had become wet and crumbling. I'm into this project for nearly double what my budget was.
What would be the best DIY solution to connect the new sink to the old copper wall pipe, that does not involve a plumber, or some lousy piece of rubber that may leak again in a few months?
Thanks
Westy1983
Greg says: You do not need anything except a pair of flexible supply tubes for hot and cold water, and a plastic slip joint p-trap to hook up the waste water. $10 will do it.Thank you so much for your videos. They have helped me to do a few home plumbing projects. I like your educational style and demeanor. You really are the best. I can not thank you enough for what you do.
Joe H
Greg,
I have broken vacuum protectors on my outside hose bibs. I called my usual plumber to replace them . He gingerly removed one with a hacksaw to reveal a hose bib with a 1" male pipe thread!!!. he and I are stumped. I tried a !" fpt to 3/4" fpt reducer but it wont thread on, so Im not really sure that the hose bib thread is pipe thread (its definately not hose thread--too many turns per inch) Im stumped . Have you ever seen this before? Is there any recourse besides just replacing the hose bibs??
bob
Greg says: No fixing those bastards, Need to replace the hose bib. Best is use a real hosebib, and retro fit a hose thread vacuum breaker and do not lock the breaker on to the outlet of the hose bib. If the hose bib was soldered on to a pipe instead of threaded to a nipple, solder on an adapter and thread on a bib.I have a question about general practice and code. A plastic two part trap is generally oriented pointing straight back from the basin or tub. Is there any objection to orienting it to either side and then the second section back? This will have the outlet a few inches to the side but can be adjusted to point at the down-pipe. At all times the water seal is in the same horizontal position as when the fittings point in a straight line. This is in case of limited space between the appliance and the drain down-pipe. But is this an accepted practice?
Richard Davis
Greg says: I hope you get my response in e mail...in short, yes.Dear Greg:
My mother and I am sending you a huge thanks. Our toilet was clogged since last night 4/17/11. Of course I jumped online to find solutions since our plunger wasn't working. Your demonstration of using the Closet Auger was informative and thorough. My mother got a Auger for $31.00 at Home Depot and in maybe five minutes of work and after her viewing of your video we are rescued! Seriously Amen.
Honestly it is sometimes really moving how you're in trouble, without much money maybe even, and you get on the internet and find someone so kind as you to give a reaching hand out to people free of charge. My mother and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts! sorry this is so long.
The best way to repay you at the moment is to suggest you get some advertisements on your You Tube channel to bring in some cash and also here on your website. I'd gladly click on an ad to support bringing revenue to you. I will also be blasting your website to my 700+ followers on twitter (a monster marketing force when utilized properly) and also to friends on Facebook.
From New Jersey, my mother and I send our biggest thanks to you. Keep up those wonderfully thorough and comprehensive videos.
(Sorry for the long letter) - Lastly we have trouble with our plunger because our toilet is actually newer and the hole the plunger goes over is not circular. I think it would be great if a video were out to address suggestions for a situation like that with these newer toilets. If you decide to make a video on this. Thanks so much - either way!
In kind appreciation
G. Brooks
I would like to know what a backup drain is about, to keep my basement from floding.
MAJ
Greg says: I am not familiar with the term "Back up Drain" , I am experienced in "Duplex" pumps. I assume your basement is below grade? if so you don't have a drain, you have a sump ejector. A duplex system is a second alternating pump with a controller and an alarm. This is a standard packaged product. Battery backup systems are not expensive and work well. What is needed is the elevation of the lift from bottom of basement and the discharge point. how many feet of pipe total travel and the volume of water that might be needed to pumped.i need help !
i have a symmons 700 temp control mixing valve and im trying to set my water temp to 115 but it continues to climb to 130 sometimes and the mixing valve is new but cant seem to get it set just right got any ideas ? thanks
sam dunaway
Greg says: Do you have a circulation pump on the hot loop? if so it is pushing hot water past mixing valveHi Greg,
Thank u so much for posting your how to change a Moen shower cartridge on u -tube. You really nailed the exact steps that I needed to complete the job for less than $75 and in less than 45 minutes. Glad to have found you.
Buffalo Bill
John T
Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.Greg
Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation.
I'm in Phonenix and am thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: SteveYour pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter.
The plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you?
Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: JohnThe Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it.
Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use.
For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
Good luck!
Dmitry.
Dmitry