Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.
Greg Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.
That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation. Hi Greg,
I'm in Phoenix, AZ.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter. Im thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: Steve
The plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you? Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: John
The Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it. Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use. For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet. After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance. A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter". The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me. I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?
adam robbins
Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.Greg
Hi Greg,
I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet. After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much. The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Kim
Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.
I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.
If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation.
Hi Greg,
I'm in Phoenix, AZ.
Steve
Greg says: Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter.Im thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?
Steve
Greg says: SteveThe plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you?
Greg,
Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?
JJ
Greg says: JohnThe Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it.
Hi Greg,
just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related
One thing i want to suggest is if you can give quick hint where to buy the tools you use.
For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!
Good luck!
Dmitry.
Dmitry
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