Viewer Comments

Click Here to submit your own comment


Wanting to know what is 3 bars of water pressure ? What is that in PSI

Lyle Linares

Greg says: A bar is about 15 PSI, so 3 bar is about 45 psi.
Hi I put a shower in and just fitted attachment on taps. My hot water tank is near to the floor my cold water tank is above my hot water just trickles out the cold is fast do I need to buy mixer taps and fit the to pipes under bath ? Thanks for looking

Gill

Greg says: Hey Cool Lady, I need more info. the description you give is too vague, Is your water gravity fed? is your water pressure over 45 psi? what are your pipes made of? You say you put in a shower and fitted to taps, do you mean a new shower enclosure and new valve? Do you know the make and model of valve?
We a stall shower with moen single handle. When we turn it on only hot comes out. We have taken the handle off and shut off the hot water via the turning the screw and left the cold on. Nothing comes out. We tried knocking on the regulator valve without change. It runs extremely hot only. Any ideas or suggestions.

cherie

Greg says: I need more info, is the valve a posi temp? does it have integral stops Is the cartridge the one that came with the valve body? or a Chinese spin off. Does the cart. have a stuck spool?
The shut off valve for our toilet is leaking. It has been replaced within the past five years. It started leaking when our street had a water main break. It is one that is threadless. I know how to put it on. However, it seems to be much more difficult to remove. Can you advise on how to remove a threadless shut off valve in order to replace the entire valve?

Becky

Greg says: I have a video on that on my you tube video list, (over 40 videos). The part is called a furrell nut and ring. The ring is compressed on to pipe. The nut screws on to the stop valve body, so you need to un screw it correctly. Another issue is the nut being stuck on the pipe, that is pulled off using a tool.
Or, if enough copper is out of wall, cut off the valve and install a new one on.

Hello Greg,
My husband and I our in the process of renovating our 1972 bathroom. He wants to move the shower head either above the shower or to the opposite wall, demoing the wall it is currently on to open the bathroom up a bit. I feel like this is a real complicated process, and he is not a plumber. Can a novice do this job and what steps should he take?
Thanks!
Shana

Shana Hollis

Greg says: Shana,
If a wall is open and the pipe to the shower head is the only pipe being moved, the task is very easy. Testing the new installation is required before covering the wall. Copper is one pipe material, PEX is another. Pipe protection is needed to avoid nail or screws from damaging the pipe where the pipe material passes thru studs in wall.

It sounds like there is constant running water outside when I'm standing at my kitchen sink. There is an outside water faucet outside below the kitchen sink window. The faucet outside has leaked occasionally, & I have tried to tighten it to fix the leak. It has seemed to work. However the sound of running water can still be heard while standing at the kitchen sink. When I turn on my kitchen sink faucet, it makes a horrible racket noise. Maybe as if there is water in the line. If I turn the water on to high it makes more noise, and if I turn it down, the loud banging stops. Now, I turned on the water at the sink and I didn't have any water pressure at all. If I barely turn on the water, I can get a trickle from both the cold and hot water. In addition, there is a Brita water filter on the water faucet. I have changed this thinking it may be the problem but nope. However, I do seem to get a little more water pressure without it on the faucet. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.

Greg says: Sounds like you have a leak in the concrete slab below the floor. Watch the videos I have on water pressure, one of then is testing for leaks.
Hi Greg, thanks for posting my plumbing problem. In answer to your question, our utility sink faucet does not have an aerator.†

Betty Ann

Greg says: So what is the flow at each fixture? a stop watch can be used, 2.8 gpm is older flow max at kitchen faucet, then 2.5 gpm, and 2.0 is current there are 1.8 gpm aerators for kitchen faucets. Lavatory faucets are generally 2 gpm, showers 2.5 or 2.0, gpm. Laundry /service sinks can be w/o aerator and flow 4 gpm. Avg. water pressure is below 80 psi, 55 psi is best. what is your flow using a 1/2 gal bucket?
One day I turned on the water to our utility sink (located in the basement, in the same room with the water heater and inside water reservoir tank), and only a tiny stream came out of both the hot and cold valves. Water pressure was fine up until that day and now nothing but this trickle has come out of either valve since. It does not sound like any water is being restricted, just no flow to speak of. Water in the rest of the house is fine, and the outside spigot on the same water line as the utility sink works fine. My husband and I are completely stymied. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance!

Betty Ann

Greg says: Is there an aerator on the utility sink faucet?




My husband and I just changed the stem valves in our shower/tub and put on new faucets, (the valves and the handles are Harcraft), when we turned on the hot water the pressure was excellent then we heard a slight pop sound and then the pressure became very low, turned on the cold faucet and the pressure there was also low. My husband removed everything and checked and found no debris, what else can we check?

P Johnson

Greg says: Sounds like a washer had come loose and is inside the valve body or somewhere blocking flow. Did you change the seats? when you removed the stems, were the washers on them? Is flow restricted both shower and spout? Possibly removing stems and using compressed air into spout will blow out the blockage.
Hi!

I tried to replace my shower handle the whole weekend going back and forth to Home depot. I tried the universal handle but they did not work cause the thing to attach the handle to is an AA type (figured this out at home depot). Where can I find single shower handles that are affordable and would fit the AA part?

Thanks a lot.

Greg says: No universal handles work in my experience since the operation of the valves is different the post stem is different the everything is different. To replace parts in a plumbing fixture you need to know the make and model just like cars. What make is your valve?
My single handle Gerber tub faucet (circa 1986) is leaking. I removed the Philips screw and handle cover (stainless, tear-drop shape)but cannot get the base of the handle off, which also has that weird shape. I even tried fishing around with an Allen wrench through the hole that the Philips screw was in, thinking maybe there is another screw to loosen. The pipe sleeve can be rotated around but not the base of the handle. None of the plumbing videos on YouTube show this particular model of faucet. Suggestions?

Lou H.

Greg says: The handle is corroded on to the post of the stem, pull harder or use heat. If you go to Gerber online you can see a parts exploded view to see the parts arrangement. This is why I use a silicone paste when assembling fixtures.
Just bought a mobile home, the tub/shower has a Moen handle for the turning on and off of the water. The handle sits at 6 o'clock and will rotate both directions. The problem is the water will continue to drip constantly and playing withthe handle toset it to off resultes in either a large run to a small drip. Can you advise on how to fix this?
Thankyou and have a Blessed Day.

Frank Bell

Greg says: Replace the cartridge as video shows, make sure your water pressure is below 80 psi static.







We have an outside pipe that drips first thing in the morning then stops mid morning.† Could you please advise

Margaret

Greg says: Your comment is way to brief to have a clue. Do you mean a 3/4" copper elbow on the end of the pressure and temp. relief line?
Send a picture, tell me the facts, what is your water pressure?

Saw your video on Delta single handle shower faucet. Very well done. However after rebuilding my faucet, water does not pass through valve to shower head. Assuming there is an obstruction between faucet and shower head; I know water is reaching the faucet. Any ideas?

JTC

Greg says: Pull off the shower head and run water with out it on the pipe!
Watch all of your video - nice job!!

Question: When I turn on the cold water side of a 3-hole faucet it makes a loud hammer/banging sound. You can feel the vibration close to the handle. The hot water side is fine. Water pressure was checked and is at 65 psi.

Any Idea on how to fix? Might the stem be bad on that side?? Appreciate your thoughts.

Mark Scofield

Greg says: Mark,
The washer on the cold stem is loose or the seat is loose or both. Change seat and washer out. May as well do hot side as well.

I bought a house recently that the inspector indicated has copper pipes for plumbing. The house is in Oregon and was built in the 1989. There are 2 full baths and one bath with just a sink and toilet. When I am in the shower and someone uses a lot of water (toilet or washing machine typically), the water temperature in the shower spikes inversely. So, if the toilet flushes with cold water, the shower gets scalding hot!

What is the cause of this and what would be proposed solutions. I've heard solutions are (1) repipe the entire house with that PEX pipe and (2) have a plumber install a thermostatic valve adapter to each shower.

What say you?

Thanks!!
Steve

Steve

Greg says: This is very common, and why pressure balance valves are mandated today. Thermostatic valves are one type and pressure balance is the lesses expensive of the two. First thing I do on any job is check the pressure of water w/o any water being used. it needs to be below 80 psi. have you done that?
I am no fan of copper pipe, but copper pipe is not the cause.

faucet in the tub the water is either all hot or all cold. no warm at all.what can i do to fix it?

donald tribley

Greg says: Donald,
Much more info. needed, make, model, pressure, age,

Hi Greg,

Just came across your site while looking for an explanation for an odd sound that seems to be related to our water pipes.†

When the water is off (yes, off and not running), there is a very low, droning humming vibration sound that we can hear throughout the house.† We live in a small split level townhouse.† The sound is loudest in the downstairs 1/2 bath. The next loudest room is the upstairs bathroom which shares the high section of the downstairs 1/2 bath wall.† The only time the sound stops is when we either flush either toilet or run any of the faucets in the house.† As soon as we turn the water off (or the toilet finishes filling), the sound comes back.

Any idea of what this could be?

Much thanks and appreciation for whatever insight you can provide!



Anonymous

Greg says: I suspect you have a leak and the sound is from the very slow flow moving past a pressure regulator washer/seat. The water makes noise when moving and when a small amount moves thru a very tight opening, it groans. One issue to check is your pressure regulator. What is the street pressure? what is the house pressure, where is the regulator, and listen closely with your ear to the regulator, you will find the source.
My outside overflow pipe constantly drips especially first thing in the morning.If I run the hot water tap it normally stops.Will this be an expensive job for a plumber to fix please?

F R

Greg says: Fredrick, that is not an overflow pipe, it is a temperature and pressure relief line discharge. Your pressure is too high, you need a new regulator and possibly a thermal expansion tank.
Gred: Thank you for your comment. Are you saying that I must be certain that there is nothing getting in the way of the hose to move freely under the sink? Thanks for clarifying, Faye.





Faye

Greg says: Faye, I forget, what hose? the pull out hose for a kitchen faucet? If so, yes, and is things are in way of hose, use a sheet of cardboard vertically between the hose and object. This might make a sliding sound, but , will stop the pull out hose from catching on shut off valves or anything else.
GALVANIZED PIPE PROBLEM
I am a single parent an have purchased an older home.†† Someone took the A/C unit and the Hot Water Tank so the house has been without water for over a year.† It has galvanized pipe.† Someone told me I have to replace all the faucets in the house even though they are new and the galvanized pipe because rust has surely gotten in the lines and will clog the faucets.† Isn't there an easier and cheaper way to do this?† I do not have the money for it, it's August and I need water.† Isn't there a chemical or an enzyme I can buy to put in the hot water tank to flush out lines without replacing everything?†† HELP ME PLEASE.† I HOPE SOMEONE IS READING THIS THAT HAS HAD THE SAME ISSUE BEFORE AND CAME UP WITH AN EASIER AND CHEAPER WAY TO DO THIS.





Moneyless Single Parent

Greg says: More info. is needed, call me 760-899-2889
I have an older Delta shower/tub faucet & then button tab under the faucet handle than controls flow to either the shower or tub has broken with water spraying from around the edges. Is this part replaceable or do I need to replace the whole faucet /

Jim

Greg says: Jim, That is called a diverter stem and that is a part sold in store. It looks like a dime sized paddle on a push/pull stick. it is held into the valve body with a nut. Use only real Delta made parts.
I have a single kitchen faucet with a pull down spray handle. The faucet rotates left and right but immediately returns to the center on its own and will not stay over the left or right side. Why.

Faye

Greg says: The hose goes thru the center of the faucet body and that is path of no restriction or resistance.
Our pipes have been knocking after we flush our toilet. We turned off the water pressure at the pump, drained the water out the lines, then closed the taps and turned the pressure back on. once we did that we now have no running water out of our bathroom sink. Our tub water runs, and the flush works fine but we have no hot or cold water coming out of the taps. Do you have any suggestions on what may have happened and how we may be able to fix this?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Greg says: You caused debris in the pipes to be stirred up when you turned the water back on. The debris flowed to the smallest point in the line the the outlet of the fixture. You might have several issues going on. Air in pipes is one, high pressure is another and loose pipes in walls. I need much more info. Pipe type, age of house, location of water heater and distance to last fixture, do you have a circ pump or just a booster pump, what is the source of water, what make/type of booster pump, what pressure is the outlet of that pump... etc.
I have a delta shower faucet†handle that is very loose.† I tighten it up with the internal screw, but handle eventually comes loose.† Is there anyway to fix this?

manuel

Greg says: A lock washer and or a new OEM handle, the china made crap made to fit Moen sucks...




Is there a water flow restrictor in the Moen Eva Posi temp valve itself or one in the cartridge.† thanks for your time and any insight you can provide

marge

Greg says: Marge,
All valves restrict flow, the cartridge restricts as well, the shower head has a flow restrictor that is by code 2.5 gpm max. Pressure and flow are two different things, to test a valve, remove the shower head turn on the valve full flow, water should flow out more than 5 gpm. usually 8 gpm. use a bucket and stop watch, calculator. I know the flow just to look at it. Send me a picture of water flowing w/o head on.

I have replaced all my plumbing with pex. Now I have water in the kitchen and the bathroom sinks. No water to the bathtub or toilet.
They are all on the same line.Could there be an air lock or something else? I'm stumped.

Mike Tenhonen

Greg says: The aerators or shower heads plugged? pull supply tubes, shoot into a bucket, while tube is off, blow on faucet spout to see if clear...
I am trying to replace the knobs of an old bathtub and the trim sleeves are to long, can a replace them with shorter ones?

John Drews

Greg says: John,
All trim parts are for a specific valve. To know the handle options, you must look for the mfgrs. factory options. Failure will come from one size fits all trim.
What make is your valve? how old? what finish? 2 handle, or 3 handle? or newer valve having one handle?

I replaced a 27 year old Moen tub/shower trim with a Price-Pfister universal trim kit, as my valve was still usable, but so outdated I cannot find affordable trim kits.My problem is that the universal kit back plate (escutcheon) has a foam piece in the back (I assume to help keep out water) . My valve is not mounted to anything (this house was built with that horrible plastic pipe), so when I try to tighten the back plate to lessen the 1/4 inch gap that the foam causes, it pulls the valve forward and tweaks all the other pipes. So I don't want to do that. Do you have any suggestions for 1) stabilizing the valve and/or plastic pipes it is attached to (there is no visible piece of wood to attach it to) or 2)figure out how to get that back plate on without the gap, short of removing the foam ring on the back. My only thought now is to remove the foam ring, and glue the backplate to the tub surround.

Kalinda

Greg says: Kalinda,
Bad idea to use anything but Moen on a Moen any thing. Moen trim kits are at hardware stores that are made to fit the exact valve you have. The loose issue is another issue all together. Use a piece of pipe insulation or such between the valve and the shower wall that the trim plate pulls to. What you have is fixable this way. I have fixed dozens of loose valves this way every year. But use real parts, never use universal fit all plumbing parts. I repair most every valve I see when this is done. Price Phister has no place making parts for Moen.

Greg,

What is the brand name of that delta valve tool. I can't find it anywhere.

Thanks,

Matt Marquardt

Matt Marquardt

Greg says: Delta makes it. Go to Delta.




Regarding knobs that control flow out of the tub-faucets or the shower:† Some knobs enable the user to turn the flow on to a fixed flow-rate or off,†and to control the temperature of the flow.† Others allow the user to control the flow rate and the flow temperature.† Individuals will differ in their preference for having or not having control over flow rate.† Curious as to what you as a plumber thinks of the technologies underlying the two types of knobs.




SG

Greg says: Suresh,
The knobs simply attach to stems that control valves, this is a design matter. If the valve(s) are two instead of one, it costs more. The less expensive valves are temp only, (one knob). The double valves are more expensive and both flow and temp are controlled by separate knbobs. Pressure balanced valves are generally single handle, while thermostatic valves need to have two stems, one for temp and one for volume. Cost is a driving issue. Better valves are separate stems not co mingled and have their own location on wall. There is nothing new about this, just new codes driving residential application. Some people get confused easily... so it is a choice and a budget.

Hi Greg,
My husband and I installed a new utility tub faucet, used shark bites instead of soldering (as intake lines come down from top). I have some questions because we have not done a lot of plumbing.† We were told how to install the new one and also read directions but we are getting leaks around the male end of shark bite and union nut/tailpiece area. We used some teflon tape on threads (applying in proper direction) on the male end of sharkbite but none on the union nut. Is there something we are doing wrong? Could we have ruined something if we tightened it too tight? I thought you hand tighten it then use a wrench to do a 1/4 turn. We have tried plumbers grease as well on threads but no luck. We hate to call a plumber out just to get it tightened right and we don't have the money to do so anyway. Is there a product we could use to seal it better? Any advice or help is appreciated!

DIY wannabe

Greg says: Laura,
2 1/2 threads are to be left outside of the socket when a male thread is fully screwed into it. Two wrenches are needed and used opposing directions while having force only in rotation not moving the pipe/valve... Plumbers paste (PTTFE) or tape is best.





Hey Greg



Your videos are great, thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a Delta Bath tub faucet, the round knob style. I have replaced everything, the ball, gaskets, springs etc. by watching your videos (thanks for that).†The problem I am having prior to and after replacing the parts, is I get a lot of cold water coming out, but my hot water is nothing but a dribble. I have to play with the knob for 20 minutes or more, just to find/get some hot water to come out. Any suggestions how I may fix this and†get some hot water?

Bob Cahill

Greg says: Bob,
Remove the ball and springs, then turn on the water to house and wash/flush out the ports in the valve then re assemble. Making sure the cups are not in wrong.

How can i† CONNECT a GARDEN HOSE PIPE to pipe under kitchen sink and what parts will I need?

shaun stockale

Greg says: Your question is not clear to me. What are you meaning by "garden hose pipe" if you mean a hose bib, just buy a hose bib and use a tee in line with the cold supply to the kitchen faucet. Or, just screw a hose thread into the aerator threads on the kitchen faucet spout.
My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?

Steve

Greg says: Quick easy fix is to cut the pipe off clean and square like the instructions that come with a shark bite fitting and push fit a fitting on to stop the leak. This could be done as a quick fix to stop water waste then if you call a plumber he or she can see if you need more.
Just watched your video re: how to repair a Delta tub valve. Very helpful. But I still have a problem. Some weeks ago I replaced the "washers" because of a leak. I thought everything was fine - the leak stopped. But yesterday when we used the shower for the first time we had no hot water. Cold water comes out of both sides. I have taken it apart several times and a couple of times I have hot water but no cold! Very puzzling!

This is an old (45years) unit and I have tried both the short tapered springs and the longer springs.

Can you tell me what I might be doing wrong?

Thank you,

David Butler

David Butler

Greg says: Is your cold water in the attic getting hot and if you wait all will be fine?
We are trying to replace bathroom faucets. Moen are in there and we are using Pfister. the bottom part is a long black tube , but the peice on the existing has another clear tube coming off of it, what would that be for?

Linda

Greg says: Your description is incomplete, are you replacing Moen wide spreads, with Price Phister wide spreads? the stop tubes are one thing, the connector tubes for the wide spread are another, the drain tubes are another the color matters not. Only you can see the colors of the tubes. Read the installation instructions? are you trying to mix brands? that will not work. Remove the entire old ones and install the new ones using the pictures in the instructions. Take a picture and send it to me... a picture is worth a thousand words...
My sons were playing soccer outside and kicked a ball, knocking the garden hose faucet right off. Water started poring out so we turned off the water pumps but what would be the best way to plug the open pipe so we can turn the water pumps back on?

Steve

Greg says: Shark bite fittings are sold at hardware stores, they just push on to copper. Pipe needs to be round and cut clean.


Your Delta shower replacement of rings/springs/etc.
You did an awesome job, thanks.
I'm trying to figure why I am not getting anymore hot water to my bathroom from my water heater that's in the attic above my second story. The water heater is 13 yrs old and provides hot water when the temp is raised.† Is the element going out or is the water heater worn out?† Visual shows no rust around the base.† I have drained it several times the past 4 yrs.
Can you give me any thoughts as to the issue?




Beau

Greg says: Water heaters life expectancy is less than 13 yrs. If it is electric, your elements need changing. since in attic best to replace the whole unit. Seriously...
I am replacing my kitchen faucets and adding one that has a sprayer.† My sink has a place for the sprayer but it has not been cut out and I would like to know how to do so.† I have do everything as my husband is a total care patient so I learn as I go, any help is greatly appreciated.





Sharol

Greg says: Sharol, What is the sink basin made of? Stainless steel, cast iron, enamel steel, China, composite, or what. The material determines the tool to cut a hole. Stainless Steel requires a "Greenlee" punch 1-1/4" to 1-3/8" dia. A cast iron sink is not worth it, and composite will need a hole saw and enamel steel will most likely chip.
Thanks! Got my ballcock replaced. I noticed your FAQ is accidentally spelled FUQ which is short for f!#k you. :-)

Casey

Greg says: Great, No, FUQ, Frequently Unasked Questions, FUQ ! I am doing a a spoof on FAQ, so often the answer to the Unasked Question is what needs being said! Clever ....
When replacing ball on my delta shower handle, I must have twisted the inside valves because now the inside tubes where the springs go are at 10 and 12, not 11 and 1. So the handle when replaced does not go up and down but diagonal. Any way to fix this?

Ethan

Greg says: No, that is a risky situation, the twisted tubes could leak inside wall.




I need to insert a pvc "union" into an existing 1/2" outside water line so that I can



then place a faucet in the line.



I have the fitting, but can't figure out how to use†it.



Can you help?




SteveG

Greg says: Watch my video online at you tube.
I found your website and Youtube videos today.† Thank you for sharing your knowledge.† I will be installing a water pressure regulator with Sharkbite fittings myself very soon!† (98PSI residential water pressure and leaking toilets)


D.R.fan

Greg says: Save water, save money, do it right! there is a tip jar on my diy home page!
I just replaced the 1225 cartridge in my leaking Moen single handle
faucet and it works great. The problem I have now is the nozzle on my
spray hose leaks when I turn the faucet on and when diverting the water
from the faucet spout to the sprayer (by pressing the button on the
sprayer) the water will come out of the sprayer but also through the
spout (at reduced pressure.)† Did I do something wrong when I inserted
the new cartridge? This is my first DIY project. Is it fixable by
replacing the spray hose or will I need to take the cartridge back out
and replace it again? Perhaps I have damaged the diverter valve in some way. Is it under the spout at the bottom of the faucet?





Jayne

Greg says: Jayne,
The diverter valve in the faucet body has debris in it, Pull the spout off and clean or replace the diverter valve.

My kitchen faucet has a separate coordinating side sprayer so I assume the faucet is meant to have one. The problem is the faucet frequently loses water pressure when I'm not even using the sprayer. I have to turn the faucet off and release the water pressure in the sprAyer hose in order to get the pressure back up in the faucet, what gives?

Susan Schweer

Greg says: Sounds like an old Moen faucet, the diverter is causing flow restrictions. Tell me mfgr. send pix. get new faucet?
Dishwasher Remedies for Brush stuck in Air Gap.... We watched your video for do it yourself clearing the dishwasher air gap, and we cant get the brush out. Help please.

Thank you

Marilyn

Greg says: Warm soapy water down the air gap opening at the top. If needed, un screw the hose at the disposal
I have a kitchen sink whose faucet I have recently upgraded. The new faucet was a gift and did not include the functionality of a side sprayer, which the previous faucet/sink possessed.

I'd like to continue to use the sprayer, but have read/heard that hooking a standard side sprayer into a normal water line is a recipe for leakage/flooding.

My thoughts are in 2 directions.

1. Are there kinds of kitchen side sprayers which ARE capable of being directly connected to water pressure without having issues?

2. Is there some way I can connect a standard sprayer into the water system without risking trouble? For example do fittings exist which can limit the water pressure or take on the function of a diverter, such that pressure/water is only allowed in the sprayer line when it is in active use?

Thanks

Greg says: Use a pull out faucet having a hose connected to the spout end. What you have asked to do is in fact trouble.
The faucet its self needs to have a diverter inside to use a separate pull out hose. Replace the recently upgraded one with one having the features you want, Or add one and have two faucets? this seems silly.

I just put a new shower head and no water coming out

joann

Greg says: Joann,
Remove the head, remove the debris that got into the inlet to the head, re install.


OK here is my question. I have been told that 1/2 IPS PVC Comp. Coupling or any size is not recommended to be used on Hot water side. I have heard that the heat may melt them or that because of the hot water makes them come apart. I have also been told that it is against the UPC pluming code. So where can I get more info on this to show them if they are correct or wrong?




Mr. N

Greg says: The PVC coupling in the link is not code approved for indoor use. Very bad idea to use this fitting in plumbing. Hot or cold side.
Public works came to replace my water meter. After they were done, I flushed all water lines, went to flush my toilet and I wasn't getting any water coming back in. So I flushed the line and had pretty good pressure, connected it back and I still was getting no water. I'm beyond frustrated, any suggestions would be great.

Corey

Greg says: Send pix of valve.
How do I determine if my outside water faucet (bib) is threaded on or if it's a sweated fitting? I've looked all over the web and nowhere is there an explanation as to how you know.

Thanks!!

leave blank

Greg says: I know to look at it, send a pix to my site here or greg@ramonasplumber.com, or 760-788-2889 and call me tell me you sent a pix.
Can I use a 1 1/4 in compression fitting on a shallow well pump? i want to take it apart in winter so it does not freeze. Im uncertain if this is considered high pressure< I watched your video and was curious> I have one on my well now and i cannot get it to prime> thought maybe that was problem.

andy

Greg says: Is the compression fitting on the suction side? or the discharge side, and what is the elevation depth from the pump and the water level and what is the pressure of the discharge, if it is on the discharge side?
I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920.
All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling.  It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it.  I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape.  What am I doing wrong?  All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Judy




Judy


Hi

MR.CHICK I'm a manager of a 3 small commercial stores. The water pressure has been ok the last 20 years,but recently the new tenant move in and do some remodel with plumbing and install a tankless water heater but not been operating yet(no gas yet). Now, the water pressure seems to drop; the city came and changed the meter and show after the meter that the pressure was Ok. but when it come to the building main shut off the pressure is lower. Now when the new tenant use any of the water in their unit, it makes 2 another units have less water pressure. The building is about 60 years old with galvanize pipes. What do you think my problem is, please give comment.

david lee viboolkij

Greg says: David,
The pressure is most likely fine, it is the flow capacity. Galvanized pipe does that. You might need to repipe the piping. Another possibility that could add to the flow restriction is a partially closed gate in a gate valve. Do you have gate valves or ball valves? Gate valves have round handles.

I am replacing a tub faucet with a new Gerber model 46-610-83 tub faucet in a home built around 1920.
All goes well until I turn on the water supply and a have a tiny seepage from the coupling.† It is not coming from around the coupling nut at the body of the faucet, rather just under the coupling where I used a 1/2" nipple to connect it to the supply line. Additional tightening does not stop it.† I wrapped the nipple with 2 or three rounds of teflon tape.† What am I doing wrong?† All parts are brand new and I am using brass parts.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Judy





Judy

Greg says: Send me a pix to my cell and call me to remind me to look at my messages. I suppose you wrapped too little tape or wrapped the wrong direction, or the brass threads are not screwed in all the way, or your water pressure is over 80 psi.
I enjoyed your post in regards to the importance of water pressure.† As a home inspector, licensed general contractor, and a construction manager for the last 20 years I've seen hundreds of thousands in water damage and mold remediation repairs, which all could have been repaired with a simple adjustment or replacement of the regulator.† I would like to offer my opinion in regards to your recommended water pressure.† I have found from personal experience, inspecting over 2500 homes and have consulted with several local water districts and/or agencies. The recommended water pressure is 65 psi to 70 psi.† Although pre 1970 or so, it was 80 psi. In that era we manufactured better plumbing fixtures with less plastic and more lead and asbestos, :) which provided more reliable function under a higher pressure. Today, we have cheaply made fixtures, in our air tight energy efficient homes, with tons of cellulose sheathed gypsum walls and ceilings. Leak+No Air Movement+Molds Favorite Food = welcome to the era of mold growth.†

Jeremy Johnson

Greg says: Jeremy,
Absolutely, in fact 55 psi is even better, I only use the figure 80 PSI because the plumbing code uses that as a max. and people are never going to drive 55 in an 80 zone. The issue driving people to want max is the power washing effect for those who have hair. When I set pressures at 75 to 80 range and get a call next day saying too low, I respond that is max as per code, can not turn it up any more. You can, but I can't.
Thanks so much for your appreciation of one of my pet peeves, yes, the loss of property for no good reason! I am sure you also see issues with fiberglass tub/shower stalls cracking and massive rot, as well as tile on drywall. Then they say, "I used green board" as if that was any more structural and didn't flex allowing the grout to leak.... Caulking piled up 1/2" thick with mold under it...Carpet under toilets! Sink basins mounted as to trap water at wall behind sink. And on and on... price per sq. ft. China mfgrs.
Thanks for your indulgence, I feel better now...

round knob 1/4 turn angle lav stop has slow drip [when open but stops when off] @ packing, how do u remove the screwless knob? tried to carefully pry off; or is there no packing nut?

MM

Greg says: Mark,
I need more information. what are you talking about, an angle stop under a cabinet that supplies water to a lav.? or a 1/4 turn handle lavatory faucet?

Hi..
my outside faucet is too close to the wall and I am unable to repair or replace it. I will have to call a plumber. What is an average cost of repair?

I would like to have a ball park amount to make sure I am not charged an arm and a leg. I live in Central Florida.

Thank you.

Mac

Greg says: Your question is too vague, ball park is vague, so a vague answer, $120 to $250. If the wall is wood siding that needs removing first, that alone could be a couple hundred. If stucco, different, but cheaper, if metal siding ... or if brick.... if steel pipe, if copper.... if parking alone for a repair truck is $25. like downtown San Diego then .... get my point? Do not expect a licensed and possibly insured , possibly fully equipped plumber to do work for less than $100. even for a fifteen min. job, because it takes an hr. to do what is required including travel time and restocking and misc.
my retention clip will not come out. It comes down in front and dives back away from you.

tim

Greg says: Use an Awl or a pointed steel tip to pry up from the top front of the cartridge opening. Then use needle nose vice grips to finish pulling up and out .



I found your youtube on repairing a Delta 600 single handle shower valve a little too late. In trying to remove the cone shaped cap I used a little to much force and just as you warn about in the video I wish I saw 1st, I have twisted the copper tubes that secure it. Where do I go from here. I stopped as soon as I saw that the entire valve was turning but I am sure the copper tubing has been twisted and broken. If I continue and twist off the copper tube is this something I can fix myself or do I at this point need to call a plumber?






Thank You

Greg says: Is the water still on to the bldg.? if no water is spewing out you have time to get a plumber of your choice. Replacing the entire valve is required now. Depending on what you use to replace it with .... this task starts @ $500 and goes up fast to $1000.




As i was replacing a shower head a little piece of thread broke away from the pipe. When i installed new shower head it leaks, looks like I need to fix the threaded area on pipe or cut end and rethread. Not sure how to do that and what tools are needed.



Thanks

Brian

Greg says: If you are referring to the threads on the shower arm having 1/2" threads and a bend in it, just replace the arm, they are $3.00. Use teflon tape on both ends. If the head has a non tapered female thread and a gasket inside the socket, the head is designed to fit to a perfect end pipe thread, teflon tape might work, but the end of the arm is damaged and should be replaced. The arm is an easy spin out and new one threaded back in.




I changed my electric water heater. it is working the water gets really hot. The first floor†in the kitchen gets really hot water. when you go up stairs to the second floor to the bathrooms. the shower and sinks stay cool. what do you think could be the problem.



Thanks

Michael

Greg says: With little information, I can only guess you have cold mixing into hot from a single handle control valve.
I need to replace sink sprayer due to cracked hose. I bought unit but cannot get old one unscrewed from under sink. Any ideas how to loosen fitting? Following is photo:
http://s71.photobucket.com/user/kfisher18/library/Mobile%20Uploads

Kathy

Greg says: There is a tool called a "Nut buster" made for this. Or, before the tool, I just drilled the nut on one side and it popped off. Goggles required.
For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.

Thanks

AMG3232

Greg says: You need to give me the make & model of the valve. A picture will do for a start, To greg@ramonasplumber.com or to 760-788-2889
For years since I built my house the water in the showers never gets past a luke warm temperature. I've lived with it for so long I've just gotten used to it. But now guests are commenting. The water temp on heater is at a sufficient temp already. I recall there might be a scalding blocker on the faucet itself but don't know for sure. I realize you may need more information, but thought I'd get the conversation started.

Thanks

AMG3232

Greg says: Look to see if it is a Moen, if so my video will show you. Take a picture, sent here or to 760-788-2889, I will know by looking at the handle of the shower ... Does the valve turn counter clock wise to get hotter and fully clockwise to shut off?
I'm having a real issue with a leak past the threads of the sink drain pipe that slips into the p-trap. I've wrapped it with teflon tape but it still leaks. Is it ok to use plumber's putty on these threads?


billy

Greg says: Plumbers putty is not for threads, threads do not slip into a P Trap, I need a picture to understand your connection problem, sent to here or 760-788-2889. Alignment is often the cause of leaks, slip joints use a slip joint washerm threads use tape or teflon paste. If the P Trap has threads on top, that is for a slip joint washer. The threads on a P Trap are as well in the union, but that union joint uses teflon paste.



We recently remodeled our bathroom, taking out the tub and doing a step in shower. We dd not repalce the valve to the shower as it was new. Now the problem is there is†no cold water†coming through the faucet and we are unable to adjust the temperature of the water. How can it be repaired?





Peggy Armstrong

Greg says: Depends on the valve make, and what is the problem, My guess is, yes, put in a new OEM cartridge. That should fix the problem.
I am having an issue with the water coming out of my shower head when the tub spout is running. I replaced the spout thinking it was the diverter valve but no luck. Same problem. Could it be because my water pressure is too high?

Jesse

Greg says: Has the valve always done this? if the valve is plumbed wrong this will happen. Yes very high pressure will cause this. The tub spout is the priority port in a correctly plumbed valve. the path of most resistance is the shower, but too high pressure will max the capacity of the spout port causing the excess to release up to the head. 80 psi is max pressure, get a gauge and put it on the hose bib of the house while no water is running.

I am asking about Improving Toilet Flush Performance. I have two toilets. In one, pouring through the overflow tube works and the vinegar goes through the rim. The other toilet has an extra outlet for the overflow, so instead of going through the rim, anything I pour in there comes in through a secondary hold in the bottom of the bowl. My question is, how can I get the vinegar to go through the rim? Should I empty the tank, open the flapper, and pour it in that way? Thanks.

Shannon

Greg says: Stuff toilet paper into the "Hole" siphon jet as it is called. pour fast using a large outlet funnel. The velocity of the vinegar will be enough to reach around the rim and the path of least resistance (siphon jet) will be most resistant.




I am remodeling my bathroom and took out a wall dividing the toilet from the rest of the bathroom.† the sewer vent pipe was in the wall. how do I relocate it to the side wall and back to the ceiling again?† I need sewer vent pipe relocate 101 to help me with this project.† thanks determined female!




determined female

Greg says: I assume you have a crawl space? If not it is jack hammer time.
Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your excellent, helpful video on how to buy and a replace a toilet flapper.† I didn't even know what a flapper was until I did a Google search.† With the help of your video I was able to successfully buy and replace my warped flapper to stop my toilet leak.†
Thank you

JS


Greg,

I'm stumped: I'm installing a 50-gallon gas water heater for some friends; When I fill up the tank the pressure release valve on the side allows a continuous steady trickle. Thinking it faulty, I replaced it with another new release valve: the same issued occurred. The water pressure in each house faucet seems just fine, so I don't think it's an issue - besides, these valves open at 150 psi. Am I just unlucky perhaps getting two new valves that are both duds? Seems very unlikely to me but I can't think of anything else to do than try a third new pressure valve. Your thoughts are duly appreciated!!

- Steve.

Steve

Greg says: Your pressure is too high!. "water seems ok" is not a pressure gauge on a faucet with no water moving to measure static pressure. 80 psi or less is needed. There is also a mandated thermal expansion tank required. Water pressure is dangerous. No, you do not have two faulty PTRV's, you do not even have one defective PTRV. You need to effectivly deal with the pressure.
I have a rental condo in AZ. The tub faucet while trying to remove the pipe it started moving. I've noticed all the piping around the condo does not have any support for the hoses outside.. So I should have known the house would have the same bad plumbingg.
Just wondering what would be the best for removing the faucet and if that pipe was treaked then will I have to cut out the tub/shower wall out. There is the neighbors unit on the other side of the wall. I'm trying to not have to rip everything out and save some money as I've been stuck with this condo for years now because of the housing issues here in Phoenix.
If you have any suggestions that would help that would be great.
I'm an electrician and I'm sure some suggestions I could handle it.
If I do have to cut that tub wall which is one of those tub enclosures that's all one piece, what could I use to cover the big hole and not replace the whole enclosure.
Thanks
Scott

Scott

Greg says: Remodel plates are used to cut out a large enough hole to work and cover the hole made in the enclosure. I cut out the tile or fiberglas and strap the valve into the studs. Send a picture of the shower valve you have.




Thank you Greg, great web site!



My problem is with my toilet. I was able to use the toilet with a weak flush and usually I had to flush twice, but if I also used toilet paper it would clog. So I can use the toilet so long as I don't use toilet paper - go figure :-(† I used the "closet auger" along with the vinegar you suggest on your video and so far so good.



Question: I used the†3' & 6' RidGid auger many times on† the same day to get rid of the clog, but nothing ever came out - is that common? It seems to have helped even though nothing came out. And then I used the vinegar on two consecutive days and it seems to be working. But I'm confused about nothing coming out with the auger.†



Can you please use my email for responding because I don't know where to look for my answer here.



Thanks







roger estrada

Greg says: Toilet bowls are just a basin having a P trap built into the china casting. The passage way is about 2" diameter, the passage way gets build up of water deposits and causes blockages, or waste to not slid on thru. The 3' auger cable is the length of the passage way in the bowl from water level to the outlet into the pipe at finished floor. The flush or siphon action sucking the waste from bowl to the outlet of the bowl is caused by the speed and force of water dropping down the back side of the bowl passage way. When all is not smooth and when the transfer of water to bowl from the tank is not perfect, this magic does not happen. An auger usually pushes thee soft blockage thru into the waste pipe in floor, so you do not see it. The passage way allowing the waste to leave the toilet is not visible, the passage way for water to get to the bowl from the tank is not visible either. The auger attempts to clear the waste way, and the vinegar should dissolve the mineral build up is the passage way from tank to bowl and to waste way. Some bowls are inferior design. Use a bucket of water poured into bowl to see if that causes a siphon, if so, the transfer is the limiting factor, if not, the bowl waste passage is the limiting factor.
I'm designing a large residence that will encompass two complete living spaces with full kitchens, multiple bathes, multiple laundries,etc. My local water district offers hook-up of meters in 5/8", 3/4", and 1" services for $5000, $8500, and $10,000 respectively. Knowing the source will feed two homes, would make the most sense to buy the small service to feed a large capacity tank, and use a booster system to supply both "homes"? I'm no master plumber, but Iassume using larger capacity pumping from the supply tank and booster would give me better volume and pressures than paying extra for a1" service that would still very likely be inadequate.

Greg says: A 3/4" meter will easily flow 18 GPM, a shower is 2.5, the only reason to have larger than a 3/4" meter is either fire sprinklers or lawn sprinklers that are large. I have never known a 5/8" meter to be too small for fixtures only. The charges reflect capacity charge not the cost of the meter it's self. A meter is less than $100.
I am trying to replace my kitchen sink faucet. All the videos and pictures I see online are not like my sink faucet. I need help. I can provide a picture of under my sink.

Greg says: Yes, please send a pix. but all faucets pretty much attach the same. There is threaded nuts screwed up to sink bottom holding the faucet on. A basin wrench or a faucet socket wrench is needed.
Greg, i'm wanting to refurbish a older Delta Shower fixture like the one in your video "How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve" I'm having difficulty finding a replacement Dome Cap. My local supply houses and big box stores don't have any in stock and seem to have no idea what I'm talking about. Do you have a part number for the dome cap and sleeve for that shower fixture and a possible source of supply?

Greg says: Delta calls it an RP 50, the brass dome that screws onto valve body to hold in the ball and seal. Look at Delta parts online at factory site or another site having delta parts.
Hello Greg,

†I have a doublewide trailer my master bathroom has a drainage problem. Own this house since it was new. I replaced a section of pipe about 11 years ago the plastic drain pipe sagged. Now all these later a different section of pipe has a sag. I am sure this is the problem. I am considering ripping out the drain pipes putting in new ones. How do I get the proper pitch for drain pipes I am sure it was never set up properly since the house was new. Thanks for your help

John D.

Greg says: John,
One can support the existing plastic drain pipes using sections of angel metal and aggressively zip tying to the rigid straight metal straightening out sags. I have used a hairdryer/heat gun and applied tension on sagging plastic pipes to the point of perfect pitch! Only if the drop that is needed is present between the sags. I used the metal on top side pulling up the sag. Even if half the distance is used with metal, this works.

Hi Greg, your website is a fantastic resource, thank you!

I have an apparently hard to diagnose slab leak. There's a wet patch slowly growing through a hairline crack in my garage slab, the garage being attached to the house.

I called my regular plumber out, he watched the leak detector on the water meter with everything turned off in the house, it did not move. Then he attached a pressure gauge to a hose bib and turned off the city valve. We watched for about 10 minutes and it remained a steady 100 psi on his gauge. He doesn't think that there would be a waste water line near the leakage but offered a static test to see if our sewage lines were leaking.

I called the professional leak detection service he recommended and they were generous with advice over the phone, though it would be $1200 for them to come out and find the leak, not including fixing it. They said it was unlikely to be a waste water leak because those "usually don't come up though the slab." They also seemed to think a groundwater problem would also be unlikely, though it's been very rainy here and we've recently covered over some of the area outside the house with stone and granite gravel.

So, I'm at a loss how to proceed. I ran the meter test myself for 8 hours, the spinner moved not at all and the sweep hand finally ticked off one gallon near the end of the 8 hour watch period. I put fluorescent dye down the drains and none showed up where the concrete is efflorescing. Now I plan to repeat his pressure gauge test on the hose bib but let it go for hours instead of a few minutes.

I'd love to hear your advice before I give the leak detection company thousands to use their listening devices, heat sensors, line cameras, ground penetrating radar, and jackhammers.

Thanks! :)

Terry D

Greg says: Terry,
In San Diego a company called CPL will do leak detection for $225. Your being "worked" The moisture coming up can be ground water from natural source of water from a pipe leak no on your meter. Is the house in slab elevation on a sloped hillside where homes or soil are above your house slab? I consider some possibilities do exist you have a leak, but, slim chance. Keep in mind that water moves in soil and millions of gallons are lost everyday in street line leaks that go some where... I need more info. altho you have been more clear than most.
How much water is from crack in slab? is it constant, when did it start?

Greg,
I have a Nibco T-111 Gate valve with a drain that is used to turn on and shut off the whole house water. Can I repack the stem with the valve in the closed postion with water pressure still applied to the valve? The valve is installed before the water meter and after the curb stop. My curb stop is frozen and cannot be closed, otherwise I would just replace the valve with a newer ball valve shutoff. The house was built in 1987, so the valve should be from that time frame.

Can a person install a plastic line with a shutoff, where the drain cap is installed, so the house plumbing can be drained very easily, with the gate valve closed? This would make it easy to drain the plumbing if a person would want to do any plumbing work on any of the house copper piping.

I watched one of your videos on repairing a gate valve on a large water tank. Learned a lot from it, Thanks!

Greg says: The water district has a responsibility to provide a shut off at the meter, but, yes gland packing can be done with the water on, but it is not the best thing because the gate needs to be moved as maintenance, so do exersize it. Send pictures
Hi, I find all your videos very useful and I like watching them. On one of your video I have seen you installing Grundfos recirculating pump in domestic hot water system with THERMOSTAT and TIMER on it. I have looked over the Grundfos website but couldn't find the similar type of pump. The reason I am looking similar pump is; Recently we have installed a hot water system with a secondary return in 60m x 30m (Building size) welfare facility building in remote side of the country. Hot water is provided by 3 x 3kW 300 litres electric water heater enough to supply hot water to the facility. According to drawing, we have circulating pump connected with DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER and 2 x Temperature sensors in FLOW and RETURN pipes. As we have not found the correct type of DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER to suit our requirement, we have not installed circulating pump at this stage. After I have seen your video, I think the most cheapest way to circulate water in the system is by using similar type of pump with inbuilt THERMOSTAT and TIMER. Could you please help me to find the right pump similar to yours in the video. I am not a plumber and don't have plumbing knowledge and we don't have plumber with great knowledge. Your help on this matter would be much appreciated. By the way I live in UK.

Tanka

Greg says: What size pipe? I /we use 1/2" & 3/4" sizes here, but call it what you will you need a circulator able to move about 1 gpm. If you want a perfect design, contact Metlund, ACT Demand circulators. Here in Ca. They have all you could need. They use Grundfos pumps and add sensors and controls. They are world class and the best.
Good (very early) Morning!

My family and I have lived in our current home for 17+ years and have been the only residents. We do have municipal water but have a septic tank for sewage. Our house is a one-story, we have two full bathrooms and the house sits upon a concrete-slab sitting on top of tons of Georgia Red Clay. (yippee)

There have been varying numbers of people living in the home, from as little as 2 to as many as 12. Thankfully, the 12 was for less than a year, several years ago. On average, there are 4 people in the home.

Before I explain the problem I'm writing about, let me say that we have had a couple of times where the septic tank has backed up (yuck), so I've seen what that's like. That's not the issue that keeps occurring.

In the past 10 years especially, we've had multiple instances where all of a sudden our bathroom floors will be flooded with cool, clean water. No suds, no grime, nothing... just whatever it picked up on the floor. However, we can never find where the water is coming from. My dad has been under the belief that it was the septic tank needing to be pumped but that has never seemed right to me because the water is clear and it's not coming out of the drains. Nor is it coming from the sink that's closest to the septic tank (which would be the kitchen sink).

However, each time he calls the septic tank guys out, and coincidentily, the tank is in need of being pumped. The reason I think that's a coincidence is because the only time the septic tank gets pumped is when this issue happens!

From the noises that I hear, the timing of the flooding I'm thinking more that its an issue with water pressure going too high. I believe that it causes a leak in a pipe that is in that common wall between the bathrooms and my office.

Presuming I'm right, I don't know how to convince my dad that it's at least worth checking out. Because to my knowledge, the only way to prove its a pressure issue would be to experience a pressure spike while having a large hole in the wall.

Is there a way to figure this out? It happens no more than twice a year, if that. Throughout the year, I'll hear the pipes making weird noises, sometimes these "glub-glub" noises, other times its this grinding, wrenching noise that is much louder and goes throughout the house... these noises I've never heard in any other home I've lived in. But usually, if you go run the water or flush the toilet a time or two, it goes away (as if it's relieving pressure).

Any suggestions or advice you could give would be greatly appreciated! This is getting to be a very annoying, not to mention costly issue that isn't getting fixed!

Thanks in advance for your time and any info you have!

Sincerely,

Elizabeth
McDonough, GA

Elizabeth

Greg says: Please see my reply I sent in e mail. use a lazy hand gauge to monitor pressure, see pressure regulator video.
Bathroom sinks are back to back, water will not drain in either sink. I checked the P-traps their clean. When I take the P-traps off, the water will drain into a bucket. Between both sinks. When I put the p-traps back on, and turn on the water it starts to fill up again. I don't have a snake, I could rent one from Lowes. Can you help? What's the problem

Greg says: The drain line is blocked after the fixture tee in the wall, down in the drain line of the stack, This requires a snake cable thin enough to be directed into the trap arm coming out of wall and down the waste pipe instead of shooting straight across the double fixture tee and into the next bathroom. This is best done using a 1/4" snake cable having a drop head on it. larger cable is fine if you can direct it down instead of across the fitting.
Once the water is clearing it is then necessary to run water down the drain to wash the line clear.
I am not suggesting you do this unless you are willing to work, get dirty and be subjected to bacteria etc. Professional plumbers are skilled at this and usually do a good job. If your pipes are cast iron you could have a real bad time doing this...

The hot water in both of my showers is ice cold. There is hot water coming out of all the sinks, but I have ran the shower water for at least 10 minutes and it won't get warm. I have a single handle delta facet in both showers. Please help....tired of cold showers.

Greg says: The Delta valves, how old are they? are they pressure balancing type? do they have a spool in them?
I just replaced the flapper on my toilet and now it flushes three times with one swipe of the handle. What did I do wrong?

Greg says: It does not flush 3 times, it siphons 3 times, (sorry I am anal). The flapper has a timing of buoyancy that allows water to drop into bowl. This buoyancy is built into the design of the correct flapper! Use the right part. Lower the water level, cause the flapper to close at a sooner time.
After contractor installed new faucets in bathroom sink when you first turn on the hot and cold water, the water is brown. We were away for a month and the water actually was black at first. Can you help? The contractor does not know what is wrond.

Greg says: I need more info. are you on well water? have galvanized piping? how old is the building? is the water main plastic? what is the pressure?
how do I change the stems and seats on a 3 valve Danco Gerber tub shower faucet? Where do I watch your videos at?

CKW

Greg says: First of all, Danco is a spin off parts mfgr. from China, marginal quality parts. Gerber OEM parts are best. Gerber is a great mfgr. and send me a picture of the valve you want to repair and I will help you. Parts best gotten from Gerber or real Gerber, not "Fits Gerber" I need valve model and or exact desc. Age etc. What is it doing wrong and what is your static pressure.
The pipes in our house start whistling several times during the day & night. One of the times is usually around 5am when no water appliance has been used for a while. If we flush a toilet or run the water in the sink & shower full blast, it stops. Could it be the fill valve even though the toilet hasn't been used for several hours? Any advice you provide is greatly appreciated, I'm tired of waking up an hour early just to flush the toilet so the noise will stop.

keith

Greg says: You have velocity/pressure issues. See my video on water pressure. Also know that pressure can be created within the bldg. by the water heater called thermal expansion. This is in addition to pressure regulators. You have a serious issue when pressure is a problem. This is a action needed item.
Have installed new compression shut off valve under kitchen sink installation was per instructions.
When Main water supply is turned back on, Valve assembly blows right off copper pipe.
HELP!

Michelle

Greg says: The compression ring was installed? the copper was 1/2" ? the copper needs to be inside the valve body about an inch.
Hello,

I have an underground PVC pipe for my sprinkler system that's broken at one section at 3 way joint. I believe I may need to replace the whole 3 way joint because there's a small section of broken off PVC inside the 3 way joint.

If my assumption is correct, what is the easiest way to reconnect the 3 pipes back into a new 3 way joint?

Thank you so much.

CW

Greg says: That 3 way joint is called a Tee, a tee is replaced by unions or couplings, keeping in mind that its location can not move therefore the couplings are needed to be on all 3 pipes. Slip fix fittings are good for this.
I have replaced both valve stems on my tub shower enclosure, however when either is used,water streams out of the designated spot ie: tub or shower but water also streams out of the two valve stems, I have made sure it is tight, so I'm wondering if there is a bad valve seat in the wall, on both? and if I can replace from the shower side, or do I have to open the wall behind the shower? IE: the closet in the hallway.

scott

Greg says: What make valve stems? take a picture? are the stems ceramic sealing,(1/4 turn? ot multi turn having washers and bonnet nuts? and yes there are seats inside valve bodies that have stems. Cartridges usually have a different system then stems, that is the reason for name difference... are you describing your situation using correct terms?
I haven't seen any advice on how to fix a tub faucet diverter. I have a Delta SBS that doesn't seem to be working very well anymore at getting the water up to the shower head when I pull up the knob. Any advise you have would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!

Greg says: Pull the handle and plate off and unscrew the push-pull diverter and clean it up and put silicone grease on it and re install. Not the thin spray silicone, but the paste type found at pool supply. If the plastic paddle of the diverter is broken, replace it with new one from hardware store..
I watched your video on how to fix a Moen Shower Knob and tried to figure out what my situation was. The handle move freely all the way around but doesn't catch to turn the water on. I unscrewed to know with Allen wrench, the black cap with grooves to sit inside the handle was there in which I unscrew with a Phillips and then the two white circles that set inside each other look fine. So the problem is the black cap and white circles do not move or budge when turned. They stay right in the T shape of the metal collar. So when I put the knob back on, it doesn't turn anything to have the water turn on. I don't know what's the next step. The cartridge was just replaced the week before and my son was taking a bath and I'm very positive he was messing with the handle but not sure if he was using excessive force? Could he have broken the whole thing? I cannot replace it due to lack of funds . Is there help for me? Thank you in advance!

Delia

Greg says: Delia,
The Moen trim you refer to is a lever handle? Many different handles exist. The cartridge you have is turn only? not pull out and turn ? And no you have not broken the whole thing, just that plumbers are better at working on fixtures than you, and to be honest the assembly you describe is not an easy assembly to pull apart and re assemble. There is a steel collar that if not all the way pushed into the valve body it will scrape on underside of the handle. I suggest sending me a picture of the finished look, and a pix with the handle off, and another with the handle adapter off. I can then refer to different pix in telling you how to re assemble. You do not know the terminology and it would be easier.

Greg,

Thank you for posting the videos on youtube!

I just finished a repair project for a Delta single handle shower lever. Without your knowledge and helpful video, I would've had to hire a plumber!

Much appreciation to you for taking the time to make these videos!

Greg says: My goal is to help you save water and not prevent you from hiring a Plumber, if you can afford one or chose to just DIY. Also show what is needed to people who think it is easy. And prevent DIY'ers from twisting off the body of the valve. I see too often people cause more harm than good. As a Plumber I support my fellow tradesmen, yet at same time support my fellow americans in conserving water as well as these tight times can be tough, and some people let it drip. Having disclaimed all that I hope to be off assistance and not cheat my fellow Plumbers. and at same time help you, thanks for watching, tell a friend...
Hi Greg,
I appreciate you taking the time to educate and help us DIY'ers. My issue deals with a 'freeze proof 14 turn ball-valve hose bib...in fact it deals with 5 of them. We had them installed on our home when we built in 2007. Now they all drip and don't close completely, There is no interior leaking they just don't turn off completely on the outside. The only fix we can see is to tear into the interior drywall ceiling to be able to access them for repair/replacement. Our exterior is brick. and we live in zone 5 with freezing temps every winter down to the 0's sometimes We even had some -10 to -15's this past winter.
Any thoughts would be welcome.

Andrea Urban

Greg says: They are serviceable, most likely woodford brand, the water to the house is turned off first and the long stem is unscrewed and new washer put in and Wa, La, your fixed.
I had a plumber come over to my house because I have been hearing a humming-vibrating sound when I run water in my sinks and when the toilet finishes flushing. One of our toilets overflowed a few weeks ago and the water level rises up to the rim of the bowl every time we flush it.

The plumber checked the pressure in our backyard and it was 100 psi. He suggested replacing the water pressure valve on our main water line. We live in a townhome. I see only one valve to shut off the main water line. Do I need to look for another shut off valve somewhere else? Do I need to call the city I live in to shut off the line outside near the sidewalk?

He also suggested replacing the toilet or inner workings of the toilet. I am making progress on that project.

I really thought the plumber would have snaked the toilet to remove or loosen up anything that might have gotten snake but he did not mention that.

Do you have any other suggestions?


Thanks

Cassandra

Greg says: The toilet overflowing is not related to water pressure, an auger should clear that, or the soft blockage could just dissolve on its own. The one main shut off the the house is where the regulator goes, just after the full port ball valve needed to shut off house water.
Having a problem with not enough cold water in the shower. I live in Arizona and during our hot summers our cold water is basically warm, but my problem may lie with the shower valve. I have a delta shower valve that if you turn the knob counter-clockwise turns the shower on and the more you turn it the hotter it gets and obviously turning clockwise makes it colder and eventually off. My problem is that I get plenty of water pressure when the shower is running hot, but as I turn the knob clockwise the heat does go down but its still warm/hot and I am loosing pressure in the process. Eventually as I'm adjusting the shower will shut off, but It never gets cold or even cool enough to enjoy in the summer. Do you have any idea what is causing this or if I need to get a new valve? Thanks, Kevin

Kevin

Greg says: Do you have attic piping? The pressure balance cartridge is replaceable.
Problem - no hot water in power shower (but plenty available)

I have a shower powered by a pump called a "superboost twin". The pump appears to work but no hot water makes it into the shower head (which has been cleaned) a couplee metres away any more. The weird thing is that the hot water outlet pipe from the pump to the shower seems to get much hotter (near the pump) than the inlet hot water pipe which draws from the adjacent hot water tank. Further, although the pump kicks in as soon as you turn the shower tap on when the thermostat is on a cold setting, if the thermostat on the shower starts at a mid or hot setting, the pump will not kick in and no water comes out at all. There seems very little pressure in the water (which is only cold) at these settings.

Do you think this is a thermostat issue or maybe a trapped air issue? If either case seems likely, what can I do?

Any advice most gratefully received!

Regards

Ian

Ian Magness

Greg says: Contact superboost, I am not familiar with it.
I sprung a leak in my thermal expansion tank. I have a shut off valve on the line which I turned off(the tank was shooting water from the hole.) The leak stopped but after a while it started to drip from the hole and the cold water pipe from the hot water heater began to get warm.

The pilot light must of have gone out before I new the water was leaking. I shut to knob from on to off on the hot water heater. I thought it best to let any water dry before re-lighting the pilot.

Is the warm pipe normal? If I remove the thermal expansion tank to replace, will I have a lot of water to deal with?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time!
Robb

Robb

Greg says: The expansion tank is full of water and the hot water is from the water heater causing conduction of heat thru the pipes.
We are renovating our bathroom. While taking the old tub out we discovered that due to a prior water leak the plumbers rerouted the copper water pipes around the perimeter of the house and fed them through the wall, through the steel tub braces to the faucet on the left side of the tub. We cut the copper pipes and used shark bites and PEX tubing to reroute the water along the wall of the tub surround. I'm hoping this is a sound fix as the research I've done says that this will work.

We purchased a new brass tub overflow and drain kit, however the tailpiece is smaller than the waste pipe in the foundation. Could you advise us as to how we should remedy this? Do we just fill the gap with plumbers putty? The pipe in the foundation is PVC. Are there washers or something to accommodate this difference? Is there really nothing that connects the drain tailpipe to this waste pipe? Do we Teflon all the threads on the waste tee? It just seems odd that the overflow and the drain pipes just slide in the waste tee with only the plastic washers keeping them in place, but I understand the reason is to accommodate the distances in the different bathtubs.

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

Kathleen

Kathleen

Greg says: Kathleen,
The 11/2" tail piece from the waste and overflow is to vertically connect to a 1/12" trap adapter having a slip joint washer and nut. the 11/2" pipe below is IPS (Iron Pipe Size) normally 11/2" and the trap adapter on top is the reducer adapter to "tubular 11/2" size.... If access allows a mission coupling will meet code if it is for IPS to Tubular size (11/2" X 11/2").





5/19/2013, I have the same faucet in my shower that you show on the video and the dome will not unscrew after tapping a couple of times. Should I spray w-d40 on it or is there something else that will work or should I just keep working on it until it gives?



Thanks, John

John Messineo

Greg says: WD 40 has worked as have other solvents. Heat works too a hair dryer on the dome and not on the valve body.
Now that I've installed an expansion tank with air to 60psi do i set my pressure regulator to 60psi with a faucet running water or not?

hector cunningham

Greg says: Adjust pressure while water is running but, when water is not running that pressure is what you set it at. Pressure will be about 10 psi lower while water is running. Easier to pump up air when water pressure is off and drained of pressure.
I want to replace the handles only on my shower.  It is a Delta product and was put in when the house was built in 1983.  Of course they don't make this particular style any longer so I was wondering what my options are for new handles.

Thanks for your time.





Susie Q

Greg says: Send me pictures of your existing handles.
I have water pressure to the house at 60psi when I turn on a faucet or flush a toilet it only drops 3to 5 less no problem but in the morning after using some water gauge still be at 60 or so but the red needle will be up at 130 or therabouts. I tested it tonight at 6pm and set it at 60 when i checked it at 7pm both needles were at 120 ithen turned on a faucet in the house and it immediately dropped to 60.what can it be?

hector cunningham

Greg says: Thermal expansion. Look at Watts Thermal expansion tank in google search...
I have a single valve shower faucet that stopped working. When I turn it I hear a skipping sound as if teeth from a gear are missing. Now I took apart the faucet, but the base of the handle wont budge. I noticed the sleeve is free spinning so it should pull right out. The handled only has a cap covering the center screw, and the handle itself I unscrew as well as it makes contact with the first screw I removed. The backplate, faceplate came off with ease, but the ball of the handle will not come off. Theres no secondary screw checked and re-checked. The sleeve rotates without any friction so is not a screw-on piece

The product doesn't have its name like other companies would but I did noticed a 'N" in a circle as the only marking from a manufacturer. I hope there is a solution to this other then getting a plumber and take the whole unit out and replacing it. I have pictures if it helps. Thank you.

Ivan JB

Greg says: Take a picture and send it to me... greg@ramonasplumber.com
I've viewed your video on leaking flappers. I've got a pr of 25 yr old Eljer Emblem toilets in my house - in use for all these years, with limited issues encountered. One of them's having flapper leak trouble. (It happens to be the toilet used less than the other - due to the location in the house). I've bought 2 flappers this week that I was told would be appropriate to use, and neither has fixed the problem. One of them was a blue colored one, (I was told it was made for the regional plumbing supply chain to work on Eljer toilets). The other was a red Korky, labeled "universal". There's no apparent issue with the ear's to Frankenstein hook issue you describe, and nothing going on with a chain with too much (or not enuf) chain slack that you talk about. The water leaks out of the bowl in 3-5 hours. I get the idea that Eljer "Emblem" model is getting hard to find parts for.

What should I do next. Thank You.

Mike

Greg says: The flush valve that contains the flapper is attached to the tank and can leak into the bowl. The replacement requires replacing the tank to bowl bolts and gaskets too. It is a standard flush valve but needs to be cut to not be too high for the overflow. the max hight is the hole in the tank wall to allow the flush handle to mount.
Thanks for the video.† It help me greatly. My son in law has a really old leaking delta shower faucet and after replacing the parts delta(rp70 multiple times) suggested it was still leaking(dripping almost running) out of the tube faucet.† So I took a look at it. What I found was that the cold water seat for the spring and seal was a bit corroded and had build up of scale(I† carefully cleaned the scale off). The normal rp70 seal couldn't seal against the ball properly because of the corrosion . I found a seal for a valley brand faucet that was the same size a the delta but has a longer neck that actually covers the delta spring almost completely and has 3 ring seals a round the seal itself. It takes a little work to get it in the hole. Your suggested grease really helped get it in. You have to be really careful putting the ball back in also(because the seal that rides on the ball stick out a little more than the delta, but it will push back into the hole. But the cool thing is that it took care of the problem completely. I also put a adjustment ring back in like you said there was(which delta said wasn't needed anymore). On the older models it is needed because you can't tighten down the half moon cap properly without the adjustment ring. Got all the parts at Menard's and Home depot. Thank you so much for the video. Saved† replacing the hole faucet.




Stanb

Greg says: Is the ball a new stainless one? The ball is the other half of the seal. The plastic balls get pitted and scratched.
You saved the day! We watched ur video and took our drain off with no problem! Kind of felt silly it was so simple! Found our clogged problem! Our young daughters bead necklace!! Who would have known!!!! Thanks a million!

Greg says: Wet Dry vac's really suck! kids, well only a mother knows how to love unconditionally. I instead of kids, love my work and love sharing as a mother does. I am glad my "Love" has done another good deed! We have gone national and it is like fame, and your thanks are what makes it worth it. Thanks for your comment.
Greg
OXOXOXOX

Your video on how to fix water leaks on the Delta bathtub faucet was excellent!! I admire how you make it look so simple.

My challenge is a little different: I have taken my Delta faucet apart many times to try to resolve one problem. After replacing the guts of the faucet--the springs, rubber caps, round ball, etc., I still cannot get hot water to come out full force like the cold water does. As matter of fact, most recently, when I re-did the parts again and put it back together, when I turn the hot water on full force (all the way to the left), it just trickles out and even shuts the water off if I turn it far enough.

Just yesterday, I took a compressor and blew air through the hot water connection off the water heater and left the delta faucet undone so the air would come out through there. The air did come out and there was no blockage. Could there be a problem with the hot water hole on the seating part (where the ball goes in) or with the spring possibly not fully functioning. It has been a challenge for the last 3-4 years. It is an older Delta faucet that has been in the house for the past 17 years since the house was built. There is no gauge to re-set the temperature on the fixture.

Can you recommend a solution that I might try or should I just call a plumber? Challenge is that the tub is a plastic (?) tub/shower enclosure and we would have to replace the whole thing if we cut into it to replace the faucet components.
Thank you for your advice.
Jim
505-710-4774.

Jim Maes

Greg says: Jim,
You are on the right track, is the vertical slot that the ball stem slides up and down in true vertical direction? does the valve have a slotted screwdriver stems in the center of a brass body the size of a nickel. If the hot side is partially turned off that is your problem. If no stops are built into the valve then a restriction could be in the pipe connecting to the valve on the hot side. Solder or something. Call me tomorrow and I will get some answers or reply here. 760-788-2889

Where can I buy the tool for removing slotted aerators? Pliers will not work for these particular type of anti-vandal aerators.I have tried my local plumbing suppliers with no luck.

Steve Bowen

Greg says: Different Mfgrs. use different keys, look at the mfgr. search parts.
On your How to Repair a Delta Tub / Shower Valve video what was the model of the Delta shower valve you fixed





KC

Greg says: Check the Ohms on both elements 15 or 16 is good, Sometimes the hi limit gets out of cal. I normally change the stats and elements if the tank is over 6 yrs old. Ace Hardware sells Apco brand stats real good price.
I watched your video on How to repair Delta Shower/Tub faucet. Very good. I am unable to remove the gaskets/springs as they are very, very old. Any advice?
Keep doing videos, they  are very clear and easy to follow. thanks




MR


Question:
I've got a dual element water heater. The thermostat reset button keeps tripping. When I reset it and let hot water build, it becomes way too hot. An obvious sign of an element being grounded, in my opinion. Problem is, when I test for a ground with my meter...there is none. I get resistance when I test the elements for it and no sign of a grounded element. I have power to both upper and lower thermostats. Everything seems to be fine. I thought maybe the thermostat wasn't turning the element(s) off for some reason so I manually turned the temp up on the top thermostat, heard everything engage and start heating, turned it down, heard it turn off and did the same thing for the lower. Both worked fine. I'm at a complete loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jason

Jason


I installed a dishwasher filter from waterinc.com. The installation was very easy and simple. Better yet, the results have been great. Our municipality has very hard water, but now our crystal and glassware are spot free and cleaner than they ever have been. I usually don't post comments, but this has been a very positive experience so I wanted to share the results.

tim kidder

Greg says: Tim,
Thanks for the comment, yes we found the dishwasher softener from water inc.to be very effective and easy to install. The video is real install not a rehearsed or redone one.

Dear Romana,

Thank you very much for sharing the info. I think if we all share what we know, the world has more meaning and all will reach their goal sooner or later.

DanTheMan

Greg says: For sure, lead by example and make the world a better place. I work at this daily, I will never stop.
I watched your video on replacing a delta shower valve which was very informative. However I am having a problem removing the metal cap which holds everything in place. I have tried tapping it but still no go (I have also tried WD40 and Vinegar to no avail). I am afraid if I give it too much force I will break it and god only knows how much it will cost to have a plumber fix it. Any advice?

JW

Greg says: Use heat to loosen it.
You're a genius. I am going to try and duplicate it with a site called DIY Cleaning advice. I might even hit your jar with a buck or two.

Ken raddon

Greg says: Go for it, thanks!

Thank you for such informative videos!  I am trying to reduce water pressure at the main (currently showing PSI 90!).  I found the regulator and it looks just like what's in your video EXCEPT there is a black plastic "collar" between the locking nut and bolt.  I could barely loosen the locking nut and only got a half turn on the bolt, which didn't do much to the pressure.  Any of the regulators I have seen on line or in the hardware stores don't have the collar.  My question is, can I cut it off and make the adjustments as shown in your video?   Thanks! 

Chris

Greg says: The black collar is a limiter so that the regulator pressure can not be turned up past 80 psi. (at the regulator outlet). is your point your testing the pressure much in elevation above the regulator location? like 10, 20 or 30 ft. higher? If so yes removing the restrictor will allow you to exceed 80, therefore ending up with more than that at the low elevation of the reg. Another possibility is your gauge is not correct?
Hello, thanks for the info...would you use teflon tape or pipe dope on a new installation for a circulating pump with a 3/4" threaded flange. I recently installed with teflon and 3 out of 4 of the fittings have a drip once in a while. Thanks for help




Greg says: Yes, but those flanges are hard to get tight, 2&1/2 threads is all that should show that are not screwed in.




I have low/no pressure. I use well water. I have replaced the water filter, checked/cleaned the contacts on the switch for the diaghram tank and tried to increase/decrease the pressure but the low reading held firm. Any suggestions? I need to repair this asap, thanks Joe 

joseph slobodzian

Greg says: Check the power to pump? check the hose bib at the pressure tank check to see if a gate valve is stuck. Is the well drawn down? wells go dry every day...Take a picture of the system send it.
I have low pressure in my house making my showers not greatest. What shower head do you recommend to make more pressure come out. Is something this good? http://www.oxygenics.com/Shower-Heads/Power-Series-Shower-Heads/PowerSpa-Fixed-Shower-Head.html

Or is this all hype and none of these products work. Thanks




JH


Hi Greg!
I used your site to figure out a few things with my plumbing, and really appreciate your service! I used your tutorial on unclogging an airgap for my dishwasher. I found a huge nasty chunk o' stuff in the very top of the airgap and removed it. Tried blowing with the paper towel tube, and didn't find any resistance. I was hoping my problem was fixed (original problem=dishwasher not draining)! I started my dishwasher and the water started overflowing through the airgap into the sink and also leaking under the sink. After hearing all that, would you have any advice on what might be going on with my dishwasher? I'd be happy to put a tip in that tip jar instead of calling out a plumber!!! :)

Thank you!
Julie

Julie

Greg says: Julie,
The drain tube from the Air Gap to the disposal or drain pipe is needed to be curved but not kinked to reach beginning to end. The tube needs to be falling down hill all the way, no dips or sags. I have used a bottle brush 18" long to go from the top of the Air Gap with the "cap" removed. The brush goes into the larger area not the smaller round hole, down to the drain connection. Sometimes I need to disconnect the 7/8" tub from its connection having the clamp and I find junk there pushing the brush up to and out top of gap. The flow of water drainage needs a free open round inside of the tube since the waste water is not forced down this tube by the pump, but falls only by gravity. Any resistance allows the Air Gap to squirt out the top.... A wet dry shop vac. will suck out anything except a kink in hose. Running water into drain hole of sink while vac. hose on Air Gap top will help rinse out slime build up on inner tube wall.
1. is the black 7/8" tube going from gap body to drain kinked? 2. can you send me a pix from your cell ph. of the underside of the sink where the tube is and the top of the Air Gap with the cap off?

Greg,  thanks for the irrigation video showing the installation of the pressure regulator just downstream from the street valve.  I also try to use domestic plastic whenever possible as the import product is made of low grade resin.  In your future how-to's a list of the parts used would be very welcome.  BR, and best wishes - get some knee pads, watching your videos make my knees hurt!





ca. westberg

Greg says: I am with you on those knee pads, I now use them.
We had our house built in 1982 by Wardcraft in Clay Center Ks and has
been a good home. The only problem we have had and several others have
had with their homes is the tub/shower in the master bathroom doesn't
put out good pressure at all. The
shower in the small bathroom works fine with lots of pressure and
volumn. From what I can tell, the copper pipes going up to both shower heads are
the same size  and we have the same head on it & have changed heads but it has never worked
right since the house was built new. Neither shower has a water saver either. It has a Delta tub/shower faucet like in your repair videos. Both my brothers have houses like this and both have the same low pressure showers in the main tub/shower in their houses too. Do you have any suggestions what I need to do?


Pat Ringler

Greg says: The Tub/shower valve is up stairs? if so the pressure will be 5 psi less. If the master bath is at the long end of pipe the friction loss thru the pipe will cause pressure loss. I have a solution. Pressure and flow are connected, yet different. I strongly recommend getting a High Efficiency Shower head using less volume thus retaining pressure. Several companies sell such heads. American Standard sells a couple as does Delta and Moen and Grohe, Niagara and others. The heads with only one or two spray options spray better than more options. Velocity of spray as low as 1/2 gallon per min. can strip skin off a body is the nozzle and pressure balance is correct. 2.5 GPM heads are not only poor performers, they waste water. The nozzle design is the trick. Niagara sells a head for $10 that will power wash your car! or your hair, if you have it. The newer heads will help. Your builder chose a Plumber that was the lowest bidder possibly... in turn the 1/2" pipe costing less than 3/4" was a choice, in which case the head is your best solution. Please keep me posted
Greg,

Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.

What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flu

Rob


Greg,

Thanks for your excellent advice! Hooking the garden house to the shower pipe and back flushing it with water did indeed dislodge the clog. Unfortunately dislodging the clog only returned the shower pipe water flow to a trickle, meaning I was right back where I started. But, the process did help me to rightly diagnose that the problem was a blockage between the faucet and the end of the shower pipe.

What I did to fix the problem was to cut off the end of a 1/4" drain snake, bend the end slightly, and snake it down the shower pipe to the faucet, rotating it all the way in and out. After doing that several times I squirted about 40 ml of CLR down the shower pipe and then gently ran the snake into the small hole at the bottom of my disassembled Delta faucet. After doing that several times I squirted some more CLR into the faucet and then back flushed it again using the garden hose method.

While back flushing the pipe, the only visible substance that came out was a lot of dark rusty water. I'm guessing there was a lot of rust build up at either the faucet and shower pipe connection or inside the faucet itself. After all of that I re-lubricated the rubber seats and ball assembly and reassembled the faucet. To my great surprise the water flow to my shower head has returned to about 90%. I'm happy!

Thank you so much for your help and your great videos! I'll leave a tip.

Rob

Rob


Greg,

I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.

Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.

After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve

Rob

Greg says: Blow the debris out with a garden hose attached to the shower head arm using a hose thread X pipe thread adapter. Or compressed air.
Greg,

I was having trouble with very low water flow to my shower head. I removed the head and the water was just trickling out of the pipe. I watched your video on how to rebuild a Delta shower faucet. It was a wonderful resource. I purchased a rebuild kit and went to work.

Removing the dome was a bit of a challenge. Thankfully I purchased some penetrating lubricant that helped. I had to tap on the dome several times, as you recommended. I managed to remove the dome without twisting or damaging the three small coper pipes.

After rebuilding the faucet I turned the water supply back on, but when I turned on the faucet there was absolutely no water flow coming from the shower pipe. None? I disassemble and reassembled the faucet several times, even reinstalling the old ball but still no water. With the faucet disassembled I opened my main water valve and water flowed freely (all over the place). It appears that the pipe from the faucet to the shower head is clogged. With the faucet disassembled I tried blowing on the shower pipe and I could not blow freely.

Is it possible that the pipe from my faucet to my shower head is clogged and that my tapping on the dome caused it to clog even more? Shouldn't I be able to blow air freely down the pipe that leads from the shower head to the disassembled faucet?

Do you have any idea what could be the problem?

Thanks for your help!

Rob

Rob

Greg says: Rob,
Take a garden hose from before house shut off run into shower head arm with an adapter from hose thread to female pipe thread. This will blow back out the blockage.... assuming a blockage is the problem. Air will work almost as well.




Hi Greg...I have a client that has leaking shower valves..she sent me a picture of one of them.  Single handle control...rotating handle, fixed not levered.  She does not see a manufacturer name...ie Delta or Moen etc.  I know this is a long shot..but hoping to identify the manufacturer and pick up parts before showing up for the repairs.  Any sites that you know of where I can reference a catalog of pictures to possibly identify the brand and parts needed?

 

By the Way...I just found your videos on YouTube...great stuff!

Matt Russell


50 year old single floor ranch w crawl space, 2 issues:
1. when running water to tub, cannot get the shower head to stop water coming out, even though I have pulled the tub faucet stopper up to stop the shower. Any solution where I do not have to tear up the above tub tiled wall?

2. 4" Cast Iron drain pipe extends 18" outside my concrete block foundation, buried 1 foot down. Previous plumber busted a hole in the top of the cast iron pipe that extends outside the foundation, but buried 1 foot down. I bet they charged $200 to bust that stupid cleanout hole. PVC piping to the street sewer connection is attached at a PVC elbow to the cast iron drain pipe. How the heck can I get a sealed drain system? Roots have made a mess in the busted hole. The PVC can't be a sealed connection, I bet it's just slid onto the cast iron drain.

What should I use to connect and seal the PVC to the cast iron, or do I have to create some sort of cleanout? What connections to keep roots out?

blackxacto


Hi Greg,
I stumbled upon your youTube video while searching for DIY help with a shower spigot and knobs. Your videos are great and I watched several - thanks for providing such a helpful site.

My question involves the shower. We have a 30 year old Gerber three knob tub spigot that was leaking. I replaced all three with a 'universal' kit from a local home supply store. The hot/cold handles worked fine but the diverter knob did not send the water up to the shower head. I went to the local plumbing store after scratching my head and they suggested I use Gerber brand parts (as you recommend as well) due to small size changes etc. used in universal parts. So I bought the Gerber diverter and yes, it worked to send the water up to the head. However, the water pressure dropped approximately by half or 2/3 so much so that we couldn't take a shower. So I went back to the plumbing store and they suggested I also replace the two hot/cold handles with Gerber brand. I did that, and although it seems a bit better, it still is not back to the original pressure - even before the leaks! No one seems to have any other ideas for me. We're contemplating calling a plumber, but wonder if it is just something simple we're overlooking? Sure would appreciate any help. :-)  Thank you for your thoughts.
Kathy



Kathy

Greg says: Kathy,
A couple things, one, a pice of debris could be in line to head, is spout as slow as head? if not pull head measure volume from shower arm w/o head on it compared to spout. Second possibility, If the stems are screwed in to valve body too far by not having the thick washers on stem threads, the stem when opened all the way is not as far open as it was before, or as far as they can. Same goes for the diverter, the position of the stem in relation to the passages in valve body can be a flow volume issue. Another is if the valve body has shut off stops on the inlets to valve, they can be partially closed as well as if a screen exists in valve body to protect the valve, this screen could be dirty. Check the pressure to your house as well this could have had debris move around in the repair process and that debris could be in a screen in a pressure regulator if you have one. Do you have a pressure regulator? do you know your pressure? have you removed your shower head? Did you change the seats when you replaced your stems? are the stem washers thicker than original ones?...

The air gap for my dishwasher leaks water out of it. (new problem just started today) I checked the hose and it is clear.  I even removed it and can blow air threw it.  I checked where the hose connects to the drain and it is clear.  The water comes from the dishwasher to the air gap but some comes out and some goes down the hose and down the drain.  Any idea what could be wrong?    


mark

Greg says: Is there a kink in the larger hose? is there a sag in the hose from the gap to the drain pipe. Does the chrome cap lift off and you can see the plastic gap body and the top of it is round? or is it got two flat sides?




Greg. Thanks a lot for the videos. They are extremely helpful.



I have a watts premier under-the-sink filter system. The problem is that water comes out from a hole at the back of the faucet. I've tried to clean up the hose, cut the hose shorter so that there is a slope from the faucet to the tank. but nothing works. What could be the problem and how can i fix it?



Thanks and take care.

Michael

Greg says: Hole in what faucet ?, the kitchen faucet of a faucet for a RO water treatment system using an air gap in spigot that is leaking? Picture?

Hi Greg,




I came across your youtube channel while trying to figure out a plumbing issue. We have owned our first home for two years. Just recently we have had a problem with the bathtub making a noise when the toliet flushes. At least it wasnt every flush but now it seems more frequent. This has been going on for about a week. It does not seem like any fluid is backing up into the tub, just the noise. I have been reading a lot of articles on the internet such as bubbles mean clog and gurgle means vent pipe. I do not know the difference. It just sound like the toliet flushing in my tub drain. We are so new to homeownership that we do not know where to start. Please Help!! Thank you.

SY

Greg says: Drain waste and vent is the name of our waste pipe system, I need a lot more info. we could talk on phone. 760-788-2889.
Generally speaking I would say you need your building drain snaked. Not the tub, but the main. vent trouble could do this, but my bet is drain. Partial blockage causes water to back up causing your lowest fixture (the tub) to have water flowing back into it from down stream.

I am planning on letting my little brother move into the trailer that is in my backyard. I need to figure out how to send waste from the trailer to my septic tank. How would I need to get started with this task?

I would also need to figure out how to get water to the trailer.

Thanks for your help Greg.

Peterson

Greg says: Peterson,
After I relive myself of Code preaching and support (and I do support Code), I will give you a functional direction. Then I hope to remind you Code and safety are paramount to Plumbers and People. First off the point of waste for the building is needed to be known. Is the place on Sewer or a Septic System. the house should have a clean out on front and back of the house. Possible one side. The trailer needs to be practically located so this is a gravity fall from trailer outlet to the existing outlet. If this is not the case a sewer ejector is an option. Sewer ejectors are like a trash can buried in ground having an ejector pump at the bottom. This would be buried at trailer and the discharge of the ejector pump be piped in ground up hill or flat to reach the point of connection to existing building sewer. This pipe would be 2" diameter Drain Waste and Vent Pipe. If you call me or send me pictures I will assist you further.
The fresh water supply is fairly easy, pressure hose sold at RV supply stores for this connection. Screw hose to a hose bib, run hose to trailer, and screw into the trailer hose inlet that will be female hose thread ready and waiting. RV water piping is usually in need of lower pressures this is done with a regulator from the RV store bought with the hose. Not to different from how electricity is done but the RV store will have what is needed.
Heating is often done with LPG, please use caution there.





Hi Greg,



I have viewed your videos and viewed your website about water pressures but my problem is odd. If I put a gauge on a faucet, my static pressure is about 60 psi. When I turn on an additional faucet, the pressure drops to about 30 and fluctuates back and forth between 30 and 60 every second. I have to remove my water heater to get to my regulator to replace it, so I would really like to pin point the problem. My house is anout 12 yrs. old.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Allan Hoover

Greg says: Your regulator does not belong behind the water heater, move something around. What is street pressure, do you have a fire sprinkler system? We need to talk maybe. 760 788-28898
Thanks for the help Greg.  Regards, Joe

Joseph Lombardo

Greg says: My pleasure.

My water heater has been leaking outside the house from the overflow tube that sticks out next to our AC units and the pilot light keeps going out.  Is this something that sounds like it can be fixed, or do I need to go out and buy a new water heater?




 

DOL

Greg says: Deyla, if you replaced the tank the same symptoms would still exist. You have high pressure problems and that is blowing the extra preuuure out the discharge. Tank is also leaking inside so it is bad as well, you could call me and I can explain to you. I will sell you nothing because my collar bone is broken and I can not work. You need a pressure regulator, and expansion tank and a new water heater . (less than $1500) more than $1000.
HI Greg,
I put a pur faucet filter on my kitchen faucet. I have to take out the regular aerator and putthe connector in order to put the filtr set. My problem is now i want to put my regular aerator back and i have trouble take the connecor out it seems to be stuck on the faucet. Is there way to make it lose without hurting the faucet?

Any help would be very appreicated.

Thanks
Zoe

zoe


Thank you for your excellent videos.  They are very informative and useful for us DIYers.  I followed your instructions yesterday in changing out the valve in my Moen shower.  Today I plan to purchase a closet auger for future use at home and my rentals.  I wish I would have watched your closet auger video yesterday before I hired a rotorooter company to unclog a slow draining toilet at one of my rentals!  Just paper, not a five pound root like you found in another of your videos.  My other question is regarding the Laing Under Sink Recirculation pump for hot water.  Which model did you use?  I want to make sure I buy the right one.  I'm tired of wasting 5 to 6 gallons of water before it finally gets hot.  Thank you again for all your terrific, easy-to-follow videos.  Keep us the great job!


Helen

Greg says: Helen,
I used a Laing because I had one in stock, I recommend using a Demand ACT Metlund unit. Go online to find best price. Use the correct one for your application. If you have power available at far fixture and no recirc pipe (third pipe) just select that model from the description provided at the purchase point. All different products are made with options like what size pipe, etc.
Greg

Your video just guided me through replacing a Moen shower valve. I cannot thank you enough! This will certainly impress the husband!

Jennifer S

Greg says: Jennifer,
Men do not ask of follow directions well, you are wonderful, thanks. Virtual Plumbing is the new way, welcome to my dream. Tell other ladies where they can get this good info. and my Google Ads will get clicked on so they pay me and you do not have to.
OXOXOXOX

Hi Greg:

Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.

Thanks in advance for your kind help!

dianchi2000

Greg says: Just use the description old style Delta Shower valve. The OEM kits with the stainless steel ball, springs, and rubber cups, bonnet and a bit of silicone grease. The springs needed are the conical ones . and the short rubber cups not the deeper ones that use the longer springs.
Hi Greg:

Great video on how to fix a delta tub/shower faucet valve. Would you happen to have the exact model type of the delta faucet in the video? My looks exactly the same and is leaking. So I need to find replacement parts.

Thanks in advance for your kind help!

dianchi2000

Greg says: The one in the video is "The old series from the 60's thru 80's Ball style. use the Stainless Steel Ball and only OEM Parts.
Too many model #'s existed that used the "Only" Delta ball kit for a shower, the other was for a Kitchen sink.

Thanks for your hose bib replacement video! It was clear and provided enough information for me and my boyfriend to swap out our old leaking one :) Yay DIY! Clicked on a bunch of your ads too btw!

Leanne

Greg says: You are way cool, I am glad we were able to be clear on the task, so many videos are vague and leave stuff out.
Thanks for watching, tell your friends on Face book.... everyone needs Plumbing...
Greg

Draining small swamp in front of house - with photo


Hi there!

I'm looking for a DIY solution to eliminate this swamp that forms on the footpath outside our house up to a week after rain.

Here is a diagram photo of the situation...
https://skitch.com/mhoward/egagg/iphoto

An existing pipeline runs under a tree and has probably been crushed by the roots.

If I run a new pipe around the tree it may not fix the swampy area to the side. Is their a DIY solution that will drain that swamp as well?

I am a novice with regard to drainage solutions, but I am keen to fix it if their is a good solution.

Thanks for your consideration.

- Martin

martin


Hi Greg, your video on how to replace the posi-temp cart was great. I have 2 showers in my home that are not used that much since they are spare rooms. I went to home depot and they sold me the Danco replacemnet part, well after the install now the shower heads drop all the time and also I foudn out that home depot has discontinued selling that part so I called Moen and they are sending me 2 free cartridges at no cost so I hope it was just bad parts. A local plumber told me if the cart dont work you need a new valve and that is more then i expected to do and spend. Also the house was built in 2004 and I noticed that behind the shower handle plate there is a water shut off screw for the hot and cold so I guess I can shut the water off there instead of the whole house. What would cause a new cartridge to make it drip. I assume the part is bad or the valve has debris and water is slowly going pass the cartridge???? Any suggestions?

Jamie Allison

Greg says: OEM Cartridge is needed. What is your water pressure? If over 80 psi you need a pressure regulator.
i viewed the air gap video for dishwashers and in 7 minutes I learned how to fix the draining of my dishwasher into my sink. Thanks for the detailed video that was easy to understand for a novice like me. I fixed it. Yippee!!!

CCC

Greg says: Knowledge is simple if known. Thanks for watching
My husband and I are considering the purchase of a home that has recently had some of it's copper pipes replaced. The home does not yet have an acid filtration system. Of concern to us is that the part of the well that protrudes out of the ground with the cap on it is corroding. It has five holes in it to allow water to leave the well as it has an overabundance of water supply and needs to be released from the well. There is pressurized water releasing from these holes and the metal around them is rusty and corroded looking. This is a wonderful that we would love to purchase but we are concerned about the well and water content. The owner admits to high acid in the water and the need for a filtration system. The realtor has said that the water releasing from the well is not an issue as it is just caused by the excess of water supply. Any thoughts? What kind of expense is involved with fixing that corroded area at the top of the well pipe coming out of the ground. Thank you for any information you can offer.

Lori Sutton

Greg says: The well cap is made of Iron and is normal to rust. Plastic well heads might be available but they would not be as strong and sun can degrade the plastic. A well man is your person on this. Acidic water is treated by a neutralizer that can be installed at the well equipment location or at house. If you like take a picture and send it to me. Quality water treatment systems are not easy to get installed, most installs are down right stupid. I recommend a shed around this equipment. Water coming out of well heads is common in locations and only needs dealing with correctly. Local well guy again is your best bet, if you can find one who gives a dam, and is educated. Too often the education ends at just enough to get the license, and write an invoice.
I noticed in the video when you replace the Moen 1222B cartridge that you make no mention of using the silicone grease. Do you suggest not using the grease? Thanks for the great tutorial. I'll wait to hear about the silicone grease before I begin the project.

Rick Bonneau

Greg says: The cartridge comes with some on it. Yes I love silicone grease I have used it for decades. Grease it up and stick it in..
Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?

http://www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/noritz-vs-rinnai.html

Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.

Larry

Larry Voss

Greg says: Both are very good units. Installation and how it fits the building is far more important than anything else compared here. Just the distance and pipe size alone will by far out weigh the differences. How often used vs a tank type is another major difference. Issues of cost are totally different than reliability or temperature controllability. Once you have a tank full of 120 deg. water it is hard to go to 140 deg. at a seconds notice. Tankless offer that. Remote controls offer that. Tankless units cost a lot more money to buy and if vent is used 10 times more for venting. Tank Types are not wall mount and outdoor approved Tankless are. Noritz and Rianni offer very close performance compared to Tank type, but the above is to cite some of the dynamic aspects of hot water. Location and the other issues is not important in a static comparison I point out true dynamics of a building. Not to mention user behavior ! I wont even go there.
Greg, thanks again for answering the phone and helping me with my thermal expansion (pressure accumulation) issue that has been stumping me and all the other "plumbers" I have asked about it. Two other questions (albeit likely rhetorical). If i install a tankless WH, I am assuming no thermal expansion tank would be needed right? Also, I see Anderson plumbing in El Cajon only advertises Rinnai, but I see you suggest Noritz as does the comparison article I found below. Do you agree that Noritz is far superior?

http://www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/noritz-vs-rinnai.html

Thanks again and you'll see I made a nice donation through Paypay for your patient and informative consultation.

Larry

Larry Voss

Greg says: Larry, you are the most generous tipper this yr.! thank you. Tankless water heaters are sometimes thankless. They need proper building lay out to be most applicable. The Rinnai is a very great unit and both those brands are changing design and models several times a yr. I just got an up grade class offered to me today. Either Mfgr. is great if the application is correct. too many retro fit applications are not good for Tankless. This is why Rinnai just merged with a Tank Type Mfgr. to have an option. Tankless need yearly maintenance and different vent system and larger Gas Pipe to supply gas to a more than ten fold demand on gas load. The endless supply of hot water can be done with Hybrid or regular tank types. AO Smith makes a great hybrid called Vertex Ed Baggley the actor is the spokes person for them and if you like him you might give him an ear. Tankless have an advantage in that they can be outdoor mounted on the garage wall and need no venting in such case you are closer to being pre disposed to a Tankless application. All you would need is a gas line to the unit that is big enough. Is the Gas service near that location? if so good choice. either brand. At this point I am more impressed with Rinnai They have a fully modulating gas valve and will warranty if a circ. pump is used as long as the circ. pump is demand actuated and not on a timer setting only. Andy Bellow is a Tankless only installer and goes by the name Tankless water heaters or something like that, just use his name with tankless and you will get the right guy. get quote from both Black Mountain and Andy Bello ? I have Solar Thermal , its free power.
Web site and videos are excellent! I couldn't find a topic similar to my problem. I have a well and have had acidic water levels for ..... years. A great plumber I knew warned me about deterioration of my copper pipes over the years but due to $$ or ignorance, I put it off. Well........ I have had a few pinhole leaks and have been replacing my copper pipes little by little with most leaks being after the water heater. I have replaced most of my 3/4" piping with pvc and was wondering if there is any benefit to replacing the rest of my plumbing/house all with 3/4" pvc pipe? 

Steve Moore

Greg says: Where do you live? CPVC is needed for Hot water, PVC for cold. Careful to stop back flow into cold from hot side. PEX is also a good choice. How it is installed is more important than the pipe. You could always call me.. 760 788-2889
Help! After watching your extremely helpful video on using a closet auger, we bought one to use on our toilet, which is prone to flushing issues.

I find it EXTREMELY difficult getting the auger cable around the sharp curve in the toilet. I think I've gotten it around the curve three times out of 75 tries on the first two clogs I cleared. Now the toilet is backed up again, and I'm not any closer to getting the hang of the closet auger. I turn the handle as I press the rod down. It hits that sharp curve and stops going down. As I continue to turn the handle, it just puts coiling tension on the cable so it snaps back when I stop turning. I haven't had enough successes to figure out what I've done differently the few times the auger HAS made it around the curve. HELP?!?!

(FYI, pre-closer auger we used to plunge away most of our toilet problems, then sometimes that wouldn't work and we'd call out the plumber to get that brown water down... At that point, the toilet would work great for a while, then it would happen again. It also frequently goes into a mode where it hesitates, but then everything successfully goes down. We don't use excessive amounts of TP. We don't flush anything other than body waste and TP. The toilet has long standing issues since before we moved in.)

Suggestions? Please? Pretty Please?

Alexandra

Greg says: You might need a new toilet. ones exist that actually work! You might have an object trapped in the passageway. What is the date inside the tank on the wall? If it is a toilet from the 90's it is most likely bad. (they are low flow and or ultra low flow) the new ones are HET or Hi efficiency design and some of these work exceedingly well! as in do not block up at all! If you pull your bowl up from the floor and find the object and can get it out and want to keep what you have , you can re install. If you cannot find ro get out your problem, replace it with one that I recommend. Most Toto Toilets are great, the Drake unit is fantastic and cheap too. Niagra makes one even cheaper but it is not as pretty for the Girls. Most units having a 3" flapper flush valve are best. some 3" units are a good flush but impossible to repair when needed. (no flapper).
My question involves several parts of our plumbing.
1) Our home came with the water heater in the attic 5 years ago. There isn't room for one in our 1 level home.
2) The overflow for our AC and the drain pan for the HW heater go into the vanity sink in the bathroom.
3) The combined drain for the vanity and the toilet next to it are obviously connected since I discovered that the level in the toilet is determined by the level of the trap in the vanity. We seem to have a constant problem with mold in the toilet, even though we clean it once a week.
The question is - Do these seem like problems to you, or is it just me?

Greg says: Code does not allow the Pressure Relief line of a Water Heater to be run into the pan. The Pan can run to the lav. as can the condensate line from the AC. The AC needs a secondary line in addition to primary at lav. trap inlet.
The Building Drain has a blockage if the Lav water can be seen affecting the Toilet. Water Heaters in Attics Suck.
The mold issue I have seen before, the only thing to do is replace the toilet once that black mold gets there. I have tried to use acid and everything else.

thanks so much for the step be step instructions they made all the difference. you saved me almost a hundred dollars and thats a lot to me. thanks again really usefull stuff.

kevin

Greg says: Plumbers are better than Lawyers. We really care. we actually talk in a language anyone can understand. That is my intention, I am glad to help.
You have got to be kidding with the production of this video. THE MUSIC COMPLETELY OBSCURES THE NARRATIVE! I am a producer, and this is beyond amateurish. I just wanted to know which way to turn the aerator to get it off. Fortunately, I could see to turn it to the right from the visual, which was the opposite of what I was doing. Could I possibly be the only one who has ever pointed this out?††


Greg says: Thanks for your feedback. Our testing indicated that the narration was easily heard. However, we will definitely take your feedback into consideration on future videos to be sure the narration is not obscuring the narration.
very nice blog that provides new thing for me .Your blog provided us beneficial information to work on.

San Jose Plumbing

Greg says: Did you actually read the Blogs? I am a bit repetitive in my theme, but still from my perspective I feel the points are needed to be made. The varying angles I write from are possibly an attempt to "touch a nerve" with a wide range of people and mind sets.
Greg

i have recently moved to the bush where we have a instant gas hot water service, an old vulcan. it is working but the temperature is a bit up and down. the buttons and knobs dont have any symbols on them as time has eroded them. i was wondering how i can find out what they are and what the slide control is.
please i need advice. can send photo if it helps.
thank you
mel



mel cleine

Greg says: Mel
One knob will be for on, off, pilot. other will be a temperature adj. Google search and fing users manual. the steel Name Plate on it will have correct search info. I am not familiar with Vulcan units.





Greg,



I've just moved into a 2003 condo, the bathtub/shower has a Moen mixer, but it comes out hot first and then cold. After watching your video I removed the handle, adapter, and limiter so that I could see the cartridge. The H-C is at the top, so I tried rotating the shaft 180, but that leaves the water running, until I get right around - 360. What did I miss?



Merry Christmas,



Bob



 



 

Bob

Greg says: Bob,
OEM cartridge is important, Moen in on the body of the Cart?, Also the pipes could be reversed in wall causing you to put H&C on the bottom and se set the cart. If you run the valve till hot then feel the pipes inside the wall, you will see if the hot is on left or not!
Greg

Greg:

I really appreciate your website and tutorial on replacing the Moen Posi-Temp cartridge.  It would be great it you added or touched on possible complications or common things that may go wrong.  However, your videos and online tutorials were extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to tackle this project.

Thanks again.

Travis

Greg says: When anyone, a Plumber or Homeowner turns off Water Main to a building, things change. While the Water is off, the pipe drains, only to refill when Water is turned back on. Water quickly filling a pipe disturbs debris and Biofilm, this turbulence and debris is a common cause of trouble. How old is the Pressure Regulator? What is street side of the Regulator pressure? Do you have a Thermal Expansion Tank? What is the after side of the regulator? as low as 45 to 55 psi is good, as hi as 65 to 75 is max. First thing need is facts, next, decision, then fix, if needed.


Great idea, we could do a second video for every video listing "The rest of the story" We try to keep videos short for those who have no desire to start a new career in Plumbing, and get lucky with the minimum difficulty in the task.

Greg,

I have spent hours on your website and I found the information you produce is great. Lots of people produce plumbing tips, your site is a little different. If you would like to do a guest blog post or videos on our plumbing marketing site, http://www.growplumbing.com , we would love to have you.

Gregg Towsley
http://www.GrowPlumbing.com
310-546-1980

Gregg


Hi Greg,  My water pressure increase after new water heater replaced, special in the shower faucet, the water flow is too strong, I am scare with that strong flow, I like lower water flow better when I taking shower... I don't know what to do to fix the problem myself, should I need a water pressure regulator to fix the water pressure ?

But, why this plumber created the problem and can't fix the problem .

Please advice
Thanks Christine




Christine Li


OH NO! Something went wrong...

Loved Love Love the How to repair a delta tub/shower valve video. everything went great and everything is on BUT BUT BUT there is now a leak at the faucet. what did i miss?

Please help! I dont know if its ok to shower with it leaking at the valve.

Tiffany

Greg says: Do you mean the same faucet is dripping? did you tighten the dome nut tight enough? do you mean the spout is dripping? I need more info.




Instsalled new faucet after kithchen remodel.  Over time we have lost a great amount of the original pressure.  Do you have any suggestions for me?

Wallace

Greg says: Question, did you use the stops to shut off water before changing? or did you shut off the whole house? The stop could have crumbled up and plugged the inlet to the faucet. The other is the scren on the faucet spout, have you cleaned it?. What kink of Kit faucet is it? the made in China home ctr. faucets with American names are not the best, they can have plastic lining inside that de laminates and plugs up the inside of faucet. The plastic lining is to comply with the cheap brass having lead in it from leaching out. There is a law against that now. If you have a pull out head, it is in the vacuum breaker that the blockage could be.
You mention in one of your videos that a static water pressure of 80 psi is ok and anything more would need a pressure regulator. You don't mention the fact that water pressure tends to increase late at night though. I have that situation, my water pressure is 80 but it will hit 100 in the night, when no one is using it. If I have copper pipes, would I need to install a pressure regulator? Or would install it increase the life of my pipes at all? Thanks for the help and I love your videos!

Pedro

Greg says: Very important, issue, yes you need a pressure regulator and a thermal expansion tank.

Well about two months ago my youngest son got one of those "bouncy" balls stuck in our bathroom drain and we used one of those plumber tools that you pump up to build air in the chamber and then pull the trigger to blow the air pressure down the drain and I believe it worked because it began draining again.... Well last night my oldest son got sick with a stomach virus and the closest place he could get to to throw up was the same tub.  I tried using the same device with that and it didnt work i also tried using a snake and was unsuccessful as well as a plunger..... also now when we used the sink in the same bathroom the water will back up into the tub! I am willing to try ANYTHING to get this solved without having to call a plumber, please any advise you have please tell me!

PLEASE HELP!!!





B.G.


Greg, you have a great webiste. Thanks for much for the information as I am learning a lot from you. I do have a question. I have a basement and the toilet down there is stopping up and I am also having some water back up into the tub. From what I have learned from your videos it sounds like I may have a main drain blockage. Is renting a rooter tool from home depot a good way to clear this? The clean out is right outside of the basement door so it should be a fairly short and straight shot to the toilet. Also, I out some Rid-Ex in a toilet and flushed it per the instructions. Dont know if it is coincidental but I have had 3 toilets stop up since doing it. Do you recommend using Rid-Ex?


Thanks, Tommy 

Tommy B


Hello Greg,
I recently bought a house and in one shower I have a Mix-It valve. I hardly get any water pressure in the tub and I can barely get any cold water. It's either warm or very hot water that comes out. I replaced the Mix-It vale thinking it was bad and it didn't fix the problem. I also have two other plumbing questions, but I'll save those for later! Any help would be great.
Thanks.

Frank Larreta

Greg says: Frank,
To be frank, you need to change out the Mix-it Valve, Mixits are not good valves. When getting a new valve get one with "Check stops" Wolverine Brass makes a great Balance Valve having check stops and that can come with a large Escutcheon flange face plate to cover the large hole needed to be put in Shower Wall when installing a new valve. Moen also makes a repair Trim Plate too.

Hello Greg,




Yesterday I replaced the rubber cups that are on my delta shower and today I saw your video http://diyplumbingadvice.com/faucets/deltashower.shtml.† My problem is with the water temperature, once I send the water from the tub spout to the shower head it becomes difficult to control.† If the temp is good on the tub spout the temp will radically change to scolding hot on the shower head and then I need to very-very-very slowly move the handle or I will either get cold or hot.† It's quite a dance trying to shower! :)




So I was told by a handy man that the rubber cups probably needed changing, so I went to home depot and bought the delta labeled replacement.† The only difference is that the springs on the hd are a tad bit longer and not 'cone' shaped like the original ones.† They fit fine and I put everything back together.† Now the shower handle moves much smoother (it doesnt fall down to the off position) but I still have temperature problems.




The condo I live in was built in the late 60's and I assume this delta shower doesnt have the scolding feature that I've read about†and that's why†I might be confusing the water temp issue as a 'problem' and maybe that's just how showers used to work in the past?!?!?!?




What can by the source of my problem?




Thanks again and great video.

Ceez

Greg says: Ceez
You have a mixing of water from a fixture or a re-circ line that does not have a working check valve. Thanks for the Pictures you sent me, they confirm it is a Delta. Try shutting of the closest single handle faucet supply tubes to identify which fixture is allowing cold into hot side thru the single handle faucet. I also suspect the re circ line if you have one. The valve you have does not have anti scald feature.

So glad I found this site; a life saver!† Plus you saved me from tearing the copper tubes in my shower out of the wall!!

CJ Kern

Greg says: Glad to help! a tip jar exists on my site,tips allow us to make a little to offset web expenses! PayPal is safe and cheap!
OMG!!! GREG!! I am so happy to find this site.  I'm a single Mom, professional working woman who has no time to entertain plumbers all hours of the day! LOL!   Sooo... when I had the first toilet clog I bought that cheapo toilet auger, it sat for weeks in the bathroom and then I finally got the nerve to use it.  This is what happens when you have 3 toilets in the house.  Then, the second one clogged.  Well,  out of desperation and fear for the one lone toilet that was still operational, I had to bite the bullet and try the auger.  Waited till darling daughter was fast asleep, because I did not need "that" kind of helper.  Guess what?  It worked....  VOILAAAAA!!!   And that was BEFORE I found your toilet auger procedure video on YouTube!   So then I got to watching, and thinking, and learning a lot more than I ever wanted to know about my three wimpy-flusher toilets.   Not quite sure if I have the right know-how, but I am going to make a point of exploring the innards of said toilets and see if I can't remedy this problem.  I don't mind the auger, but hey, these toilets ALL could flush better!!  Next  -- the garbage disposal section.   Yep, I'm on a roll!!  Just tonight, you have saved me a lot of worry and I have saved myself a huge bill from the plumber who WAS supposed to come tomorrow!!  Signed, SuperMommy  :)

Jen


Well we were just minutes away from calling a plumber because we could not figure out why our dishwasher was not draining when my husband came across your site and watched your video on cleaning the air gap. My husband being the brains and me the brawn:) I took it apart just as you directed and found a clump of sunflower seeds stuck in the top. Thanks to you we are up and running again in less then 2 minutes. Thank you so much. You totally rock!!!

With great appreciation,
The Brains and Brawn Family:)

Susan Molina


Hired a big known plumbing company clear a drain. The shower in 2nd floor bathroom backed up and black goop came up the drain of the tub in the bathroom on the other side of the shared wall. The plumber tried to rod for about 45 minutes (after a flat rate of $594!!!!) and couldnt then said he had to take a look at the plumbing under the tub, which (unexpected by me) cost another $415 to do. Billing practices are questionable because after viewing with flashlight said he would have to rod through the expose plumbing and would update with up to date plumbing where they opened the piping...at another $1525 amount to be done another day. A friend said it sounded unreasonable and so referred to their plumber. He came in and through a linen closet in bathroom appeared to drill a hole...seems like the vent line and rodded then closed the hole with electrical tape. I didnt realize this was not acceptable practice until I started checking into it...but it did unclog the drain and clost $155...so less then the other company. In any event...seems I dealt witha theif and then a jury rigger(who by the way is a+ rated with bbb and angies list)....what is the safest best way to take care of that hole....should I call the 2nd plumber back to ask him about the safety of it?

lesann

Greg says: Well a "Flat Rate " usually means it is done complete and warrantied. So you did not pay right?, same on the other price.
Cutting thru a wall and drilling the vent to clear a drain is a smart method. He should have just put a tee in the vent and called it a clean out install and clearing...
Sewer gas is an issue with tape so either put in a clean out or use approved rubber and clamps that do not meet code. Is the hole in the vent above the flood rim of the tub? if so water damage is not an issue. $550 sounds like a fair price for the whole job done right with an access panel to the clean out.

I bought a condo about 9 months ago. The building my condo is in, is a factory that was built in 1900 and converted to condo's in the 80s, everything here is a little lumpy-bumpy and very outdated but workable. So I was putting off upgrading my bathroom, until i noticed one day a few weeks ago that the sides of my bathroom vanity were waterlogged and had begun to swell up and was pretty moldy inside.

Since I'm a new homeowner and on a budget, I decided to replace the vanity cabinet (which included a sink, bought tools to do the removal / installation, and then I splurged on a nice price-phister faucet. When I tore out the vanity, I quickly realized I was into this for a lot more than just a cabinet a few tools. The linoleum was rotten and moldy beneath it, and the drywall had become wet and crumbling. I'm into this project for nearly double what my budget was.

What would be the best DIY solution to connect the new sink to the old copper wall pipe, that does not involve a plumber, or some lousy piece of rubber that may leak again in a few months?

Thanks

Westy1983

Greg says: You do not need anything except a pair of flexible supply tubes for hot and cold water, and a plastic slip joint p-trap to hook up the waste water. $10 will do it.
Thank you so much for your videos. They have helped me to do a few home plumbing projects. I like your educational style and demeanor. You really are the best. I can not thank you enough for what you do.

Joe H



Greg,



I have broken vacuum protectors on my outside hose bibs. I called my usual plumber to replace them . He gingerly removed one with a hacksaw to reveal a hose bib with a 1" male pipe thread!!!. he and I are stumped. I tried a† !" fpt to 3/4" fpt reducer but it wont thread on, so Im not really sure that the hose bib thread is pipe thread (its definately not hose thread--too many turns per inch) Im stumped† . Have you ever seen this before? Is there any recourse besides just replacing the hose bibs??

bob

Greg says: No fixing those bastards, Need to replace the hose bib. Best is use a real hosebib, and retro fit a hose thread vacuum breaker and do not lock the breaker on to the outlet of the hose bib. If the hose bib was soldered on to a pipe instead of threaded to a nipple, solder on an adapter and thread on a bib.
† I have a question about general practice and code. A plastic two part trap is generally oriented pointing straight back from the basin or tub. Is there any objection to orienting it to either side and then the †second †section back?† This will have the outlet a few inches to the side but can be adjusted to point at the down-pipe. At all times the water seal is in the same horizontal position as when the fittings point in a †straight line.†This is in case of limited space between the appliance and† the drain down-pipe. But is this an accepted practice?

Richard Davis

Greg says: I hope you get my response in e mail...in short, yes.


Dear Greg:



My mother and I am sending you a huge thanks.† Our toilet was clogged since last night 4/17/11. Of course I jumped online to find solutions since our plunger wasn't working. Your demonstration of using the Closet Auger was informative and thorough. My mother got a Auger for $31.00 at Home Depot and in maybe five minutes of work and after her viewing of your video we are rescued! Seriously Amen.



Honestly it is sometimes really moving how you're in trouble, without much money maybe even, and you get on the internet and find someone so kind as you to give a reaching hand out to people free of charge. My mother and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts! sorry this is so long.



The best way to repay you at the moment is to suggest you get some advertisements on your You Tube channel to bring in some cash and also here on your website. I'd gladly click on an ad to support bringing revenue to you. I will also be blasting your website to my 700+ followers on twitter (a monster marketing force when utilized properly) and also to friends on Facebook.



From New Jersey, my mother and I send our biggest thanks to you. Keep up those wonderfully thorough and comprehensive videos.



(Sorry for the long letter) - Lastly we have trouble with our plunger because our toilet is actually newer and the hole the plunger goes over is not circular. I think it would be great if a video were out to address suggestions for a situation like that with these newer toilets. If you decide to make a video on this. Thanks so much - either way!



In kind appreciation






G. Brooks


I would like to know what a backup drain is about, to keep my basement from floding.

MAJ

Greg says: I am not familiar with the term "Back up Drain" , I am experienced in "Duplex" pumps. I assume your basement is below grade? if so you don't have a drain, you have a sump ejector. A duplex system is a second alternating pump with a controller and an alarm. This is a standard packaged product. Battery backup systems are not expensive and work well. What is needed is the elevation of the lift from bottom of basement and the discharge point. how many feet of pipe total travel and the volume of water that might be needed to pumped.

i need help !




i have a symmons 700 temp control mixing valve and im trying to set my water temp to 115 but it continues to climb to 130 sometimes and the mixing valve is new but cant seem to get it set just right got any ideas ?†† thanks

sam dunaway

Greg says: Do you have a circulation pump on the hot loop? if so it is pushing hot water past mixing valve
Hi Greg,
Thank u so much for posting your how to change a Moen shower cartridge on u -tube. You really nailed the exact steps that I needed to complete the job for less than $75 and in less than 45 minutes. Glad to have found you.
Buffalo Bill

John T


Greg,
A few years ago I put in an outbuilding which included a toilet.† After the slab was poured we installed the toilet and found that the toilet pipe/flange was located about 18" from the wall leaving a 6" gap between the tank rear and the wall. We have used the toilet since and the only problem is that when the door is closed there is only an inch or two knee clearance.† A while back I saw a home handyman TV show where they had a similar problem and they fixed it with a "wall offset adapter".† The only drawback was that the toilet sat 3 or 4 inches higher due to the adapter but that would be OK with me.† I have searched mightily on the internet to locate such an adapter with no luck. Do you know where I can find this adapter and what it is properly called?


adam robbins

Greg says: I never heard of an " Offset Closet Flange" that was more than 2". Best is to cut Conc. shorten 3" closet arm to correct length and couple it back. some conc. and your done 5 hr. project. Any fittings that "switch back would be prone to blockages.. Raising floor is way too much work.
Greg

Hi Greg,

I've just been working on my extremely clogged toilet and now it is a totally blocked toilet.† After reviewing your video, I am wondering if the Ridgid auger you used may work better than the old-time metal auger that I have had sitting in my basement for 30 years. The toilet itself is a water-conserving toilet that has always caused me problems...I used to throw pots of boiling water down it on the advice of a friend..it would take ump-teen number of pots to get it clear but it always did clear. This time it doesn't look promising with the boiling water or the auger I have. The house is in a city but I am only able to be here once a month or so so the plumbing is not being used much.† The bathtub runs freely and it is on the same drain pipe--I can see the connection.† Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks


Kim

Greg says: Without seeing the auger you have it's hard to say for sure. If it's small in diameter then it's probably not adequate. The cable itself should be at least a half inch in diameter. I would recommend a Ridgid or General brand closet auger.

That being said, some of the early ultra-low flush toilets were poor performers - even when they were working their best. They are much better now. High efficiency toilets that you can purchase today are excellent performers.

I don't like the boiling water idea. It's dangerous (severe injury could result from splashing it on yourself or others) and it could crack the toilet.

If you would like to take a digital picture of the toilet (inside the tank) and send it to me at greg@ramonasplumber.com, I can give you a more complete recommendation.

I'm in Phonenix and am thinking about adding a Pressure reducing valve to my home (above ground). What do you prefer, all metal construction or the ones with some plastic components?

Steve

Greg says: Steve

Your pressure is high in Phx. I recommend a Pressure Regulator at the meter.
The plastic has nothing to do with it, however the Honeywell or wilkins unit having 400 psi capacity and adj. 15 to 150 psi is the best unit. The cartriage type is best not the Wilkins 70 or 600 It all depends on inlet pressure and outlet pressure needed. whare are you?

Greg,



Your video on the dishwasher drain air gap was very informative.†
But what is the purpose of a "fill air gap" on a dishwasher, and can
they leak too?



JJ

Greg says: John
The Air Gap is a possible leak, if the line from it to the drain/disposal is blocked. See video how to clear. The Gap is needed to create a point too high for waste water to flow down from sink to a lower point (the dishwasher). If a higher point wasnt there the sink drain water could/would fall into the dishwasher! Code requires an air gap (it is not a "Fill Gap"). The Dishwasher pumps its waste to the high point of the air gap then gravity lets it fall into the drain.
Greg, Thanks for the question,. I hope I explained it.

Hi Greg,

just saw your video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE6cxZ-ebcM&feature=related

One thing i want to suggest is if you can give  quick hint where to buy the tools you use.
For instance drilling that granite with your drill bit. I searched through homedepot and lowes and can't find what you were using!

Good luck!
Dmitry.


Dmitry